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Could somone give me the model or style number of the Flander's replacement handle bars. I believe I want to go back with them when I replace the damaged ones. Also, is it necessary to use longer brake and clutch lines and throttle cables to go with the Flander's bars? Thanks
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Just click on the name of the cookie and bam the recipe is there. Good to keep handy http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=2&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=3&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=4&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=5&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=6&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=7&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0http://us.f510.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download/us/ShowLetter?box=Inbox&MsgId=3905_54528420_110818_1703_69165_0_25748_184277_1706143146&bodyPart=8&YY=29803&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=01-2-3 Cookies7 Layer CookiesAllie Nelson's Famous Snickerdoodle CookiesAlmond Crescent ShortbreadAmish Sugar CookiesAndies Candies CookiesAngel CrispsAngenetsApplesauce CookiesApricot Fold-OversAunt Edy's Molasses CrinklesAuntie Linda's Ginger GemsBakeless Dream CookiesBanana Drop CookiesBest Chocolate Chip Cookies in the WorldBiscottiBiscottiBlueberry CookiesBoiled Chocolate Oatmeal Drop CookiesBronwniesBrown Sugar ShortbreadBrownie CookiesBrownie DelightBrowniesBuccaneer SnowballsBuried Cherry CookiesButter CookiesButter Nut BallsButterballsButterscotch HaystacksC.O.P. 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BarsRaspberry Meringue BarsReally Peanutty Butter CookiesReese`s BrowniesReese's Peanut Butter BarsRich Flavor Christmas CookiesRich Lemon BarsRicotta Cheese CookiesRoyal Almond Christmas BarsRudolph Cinnamon CookiesRussian Tea CookiesRussian TeacakesSamantha & Kelsey's Chocolate Chip CookiesSand Art BrowniesSanta Claus Cookie PopsSanta Claus CookiesSanta's Butterscotch MeltsSanta's ShortsSanta's Special SquaresScotch CakesScotch ShortbreadScotcharoosScotcheroosSeven Layer CookiesShort Bread CookiesShortbreadSkor SquaresSnicker Doodle CookiesSnickerdoodlesSnickerdoodlesSnow BallsSour Cream Apple SquaresSour Cream Christmas CookiesSpecial K CookiesSpice CookiesSpicy Oatmeal Raisin CookieSpritz CookiesStained Glass Window CookiesStir & Drop Sugar CookiesSugar CookiesSugar CookiesSugar CookiesSwedish Pepparkakor (Pepper Cake) CookiesSwedish Sugar CookiesSweet Marie'sSwiss TreatsTaralle (Italian Cookies)Tea Time TassiesTexas BrowniesThe Best Shortbread in The WorldThumbprint Cookies Thumbprint CookiesToffee SquaresTraditional Christmas Sugar CookiesTraditional Gingerbread Men CookiesTriple-Chocolate Chip Co okiesUltimate Chocolate Chip CookiesVanilla Waffer BallsWalnut Butter CookiesWalnut Crumb BarsWhite Chip Chocolate CookiesWild Oatmeal CookiesWill's Famous Apple Jack CookiesYummy Yummy Peanut Butter Blossoms Wouldn't it be nice if whenever we messed up our life we could simply press 'Ctr Alt Delete' and start all over?
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Pardon me if this question has been answered before, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. I have a 2003 RSV. I am 6' 6" tall and have a problem with the handlebars hitting my knees when I'm in a slow-speed full-lock turn. Actually, it's the brake and clutch levers that limit the turning capability. I don't need much clearance, but adjusting the levers would take more than I want to do with them. My question is this, will 4" straight risers work on the RSV--that is, will they clear the faring? How about pullback risers, are they better for this purpose? I notice some of the riser advertisements say no new cables or lines needed. It seems to me that these would have to be changed. I'm currently looking at straight 4" risers from JC Penny (cheap in case they don't work) and would appreciate any information anyone can provide. One other thing, I don't need the bars any closer to my body than they currently are, so maybe a 2.5" riser would work better? By the way, the bars are too close to the fairing now to get enough height to eliminate this problem. Thanks.
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Just a quick question on which will provide better fit? I'm 5'10" and have a back problem and want the bars a little higher and back to my more natural arm length and back support position. I already have a set of Harley Bars (Don't ask) and I am wondering if they may be better or worse than the Flander set up I've read about here. Any feedback is welcome.
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I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
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I have the Barron's risers and am not happy. So I'm looking at getting some bars and doing a mod over the bad weather. Anyone have some good pics of the bars installed, showing them from the side and year? I'd like to see what they look like installed.
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:confused24:My 2006 venture has a problem with hands free travel. It first happened on a road trip loaded down my dealer said just needed more air in rear shock. Now it doesn't happen all the time but i'm scared to let go of my bars. As long as you have hands on bars there is no problem but when you turn them loose evan in decell they "sometimes" speed wabble. Has anyone else had this happen and do you have any thoughts? I have checked brakes forks and wheel for play and can't find any thing wrong.
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I got most of the hitch on i got from jeff this weekend, but how much clearace do you have between the bars on the side and the tire.
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A quick update. After input from several of you, I've upgraded to the Flanders bars from BuckeyePerformance.com, ISO grips and installed the leveling links from DiamondR on my 2007 RSV. WOW!!! what a difference. Got to learn to ride the bike all over again. I also added passing lamps, "fog lights", a Kuryakyn voltmeter and switch box. The lights are run on separate circuits with relays through a power plate located in the trunk. I highly recommend these upgrades. Best Regards, Leonard
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Installing Stock Weights on Flanders Bars First I need to give credit to the basic idea here to Kbran. He posted a while back that he had done this when he installed his Flanders bars and it sounded like the way to go. The only difference is that he welded his and I opted for a set screw approach. The main reason being that I'm not a very good welder. This is a bit time consuming but I like the stock weights so it was worth it for me. Pretty straight forward job that most anybody should be able to do. After removing the bars, you will see the factory weld that holds the threaded sleeve in place. I simply used a bench grinder to grind the bars down in that area until the plug just fell out. Drill a hole in the Flanders bars approximated 3/4" from the end. The size hole you drill will depend upon the size set screw you use. I picked up a couple of 10/28 screws 1/4" long at the hardware store so used a drill size that I could tap for 10/28 Screw the insert onto the end of the weight and push it all the way in and then using a marker, mark the insert through the hole. Now you can see the mark where you will need to drill and tap the insert to match the hole you drilled in the bars. Drill and tap. Screw the insert back onto the weight. You will also need to tap the hole that you drilled in the Flanders bars to the same size. At this point, I slid the throttle grip on. You can't see it in this next picture but the throttle grip is already slid on so that once the weight is installed, I just slide it back to where it is supposed to be. Insert the weight with insert into the bar. Line up the holes and insert your set screw. The screw needs to be flush with the outside of the bars. Especially on the throttle side to make sure the throttle can turn freely. It will be almost flush if you use a 1/4" long screw. Just a very little dressing with a smooth flat file will get it just right. That's all there is to it. Do the other side and you are done.
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After 9 hours waiting at the dealer (they estimated it wld take max 4 hours to put on the Flanders bars and braided lines) --- I REALLY LIKE THESE BARS AND NOW HAVE THE RIGHT COUNTERSTEERING INPUT TO SAFELY AND COMFORTABLY OPERATE MY RSV !!! Regarding the tech and his time, he is the senior guy and gets pulled for a lot of things....but there I was in the waiting room. Bottom line, he did fine work. MANY THANKS TO THIS FORUM AND TO RICK AT BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE !!! DREBBIN
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I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
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Whenever I removed the two side bars that hold the side panels on, which was to enhance the look with the bikini side panels, I was concerned I would get some flexing. Well, after putting the bars back on today, I am sure I was getting some flexing. I have seen several comments over the years about solid motor mounts on a 1st gen. Now I feel if I want to run without the side bars, I need to get some solid motor mounts. If any of you know where I can get some, please let me know. Otherwise I will probably have to make some. Thanks randya
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I received the correct part #from John at Flanders today and ordered new bars #650-08783 if anyone is interested. Jerry
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I wear a half helmet and go on group rides frequently. I am looking for a CB microphone handset for the RSV that plugs in and can hang on the Bars. dont want it on my helmet. Are there any?
