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I went for a ride yesterday with some friends and one was on a Tour Deluxe. He knew that his tire was worn to the wear bars and already had a new set to install but we thought he would be OK to ride yesterday since we were not going that far, maybe 150 miles, and we wouldn't be on any high speed highways. Apparently Avon puts the wear bars right on top of the cords. About 20 miles from home the tire went flat. Wasn't a big deal. He just pulled into a driveway and waited while we rode on home to get the trailer. Attached is a photo of the tire. As you rotate the tire all the way around there are alternating patches of rubber and bare cords. Just thankful we were close to home. So be aware that with Avons there is no margin of safety once you are down to the bars. It was also interesting that he had sevaral Harley riders stop to check on him while he was parked. A couple were ladies who stopped to console him for about 15 minutes. Dennis

Anyone have experience with these riser extentions? I believe i read somewhere that the risers will hit the plastic ignition cove when the bars are turned to they're full stops. Is this a fact? Is their a way to fix this?

Hey, fellas. I have put about 1000 miles on the new bike so far, and I love it. I only have one complaint about the way it fits me. I am very long legged (38 inch inseam). When I am doing slow speed parking lot maneuvers, sometimes the bars go full-lock. That's when the clutch or brake lever digs into the top of my leg. I have tilted the bars all the way forward, and also tilted the brake & clutch levers as far as I can, safely, and the problem still persists. Also, after a long ride, I find my neck to be hurting more than on the old bike. I think I'm reaching farther forward on this one. I found these things all over the place online, and just wanted to check in here before laying down the cash: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200603911792?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=200603911792&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr#ht_1052wt_1056 Anybody have any other suggestions? I'm all ears. Yeah, I know the "sounds like you're all legs" is coming. Thats ok. I can take it. Thanks. Bert

Ok Folks I need a little help from the vast knowledge base of the VetureRiders. Bike info: 2006 Venture Midnight I want to change out my Venture handle bars and replace them with RSTD bars which I got last fall. Since the RSTD bars are a little longer and more pull back…..here is what I need to know. a)Does the upper brake line have to be longer and if yes by how much I assume that the lowers do not have to be lengthened at all, correct me if I am wrong here. b)Does the clutch master cylinder hydraulic line have to be lengthened and if yes by how much? c)Do the throttle cables have to be lengthened and if yes by how much. d)Do the electrical wires have to be lengthened and by how much? Some have made the swap before so I am looking for the wisdom of the group to do mine. Should I put all braided stainless steel brake and clutch lines on or just the standard ones? What is the bang for the buck? I thought I would do an article on the project so that it was documented for any members wanting to do it in the future. So give me your if you would. Thanks Much!

I just bought a 1999 venture and I owned a 2000 venture a while back It seems to me the handle bars are not as wide on the 1999 as the 2000 Would someone please measure the width from handle end to end please if you have STOCK handle bars. I couldn't find a dimension in any manual

Hi All Some of you my have seen that I have a new toy 1988 1500 Gold wing. The past owner put the NY state inspection sticker on the lower front fender. I really do not like this location. Do any of you have any other spots that may look good? I have been looking at chrome plates that mount like on the crash bars. Thanks Bull463

Has anyone had problems with their radio not producing sound. When I turn ther key on I hear like a pop and that is all i get. While it was still under warrenty the dealer fixed the volue control oN the handle bars. I checked the fuse. it is good so now I dont know what to do next. :Please help if you can.

Went for a short ride today and needed to let go of the handel bars. Doing about 40mph +, when it got down to 35mph the bars shook from left to right very agressively. Another couple more seconds I think I would have crashed. I've only riding probably less than 2000 miles in two years and most of it was at 55mp or faster. So this caught me by surprised. Prior to then it has been 27 years since I've riden. I put 32 psi in the front and I think 47 psi in the back just a couple days ago. As for Air shock pressure I put it about 18 front and I think about 55 rear just yesterday. I'm 170 lbs and riding single with about 5 lbs of luggage. I read another thread about shakey bars but it was referring to after changing bar grips with related to weights. Mine has stock rips. Anyone know what I need to look at?

was wondering if anyone has replaced their grips with aftermarket. the only ones i have found are by Avon, and run about 50.00. has anybody tried these? what size are the bars? http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/6/0/0/8/6/webimg/387609976_tp.jpg

Maybe I'm just tired, but can not find the detailed instructions on how to install the flanders bars on the rstd that the Navy Lt wrote up. Any help?

Ok, so a month or so ago I bought a set of RSTD handle bars for my 2006 Venture. My thought is, the RSTD have more pull back and are wider than the Venture bars so can I just get the throttle cable (upper) and the upper brake line from a RSTD an just swap them out with my Venture so that I gain the extra length that everybody says you need with these bars. Are the RSTD lines and cabels longer? Not sure what if anything to do about the clutch line. Could use a little insight into the swap and what others have done. Do I have to change the throttle cable (lengthen it 2”)? Will the standard Venture front brake line be ok “as is” or do I have to lengthen it too (2”)? What about the radio? OR is it a matter of just re-routing the present cable path? And yes I have done the search for some of the answers. LOL Bubber

I want to change out my bars on my 07 RSV. I want to bring them back about 1 1/2" - 2". Who has done this and what brand and model number would I use? I bought a set of 1.5" risers off of ebay, nice product, they moved the bars back perfectly except the caps hit the ignition cover at full lock to the point it would crack the cover. So I sent them back and now want to find a longer set of bars. Any info?

I searched for this and have not found any answers to this, I would like to change my handle bars to ape hangers and would like to do myself but would like as much info in what to look into, like handle bars sizes how does that work because of the fairing we have, how would i know what size cable i would need for the throttle and for the brakes and clutch, also how and where do i change the clutch hose is that a diffical job. I never changed my handle myself so i would like to make sure i dont miss anything. I would also like to ask if anyone has seen any risers that have a 6" pull back but with no rise at all so i can just use the stock bars. ok thank for all your help and hope to hear from you all soon.

Does anyone attending the Cody Rally have RSTD bars on their RSV that we could look at?

Helo: Does anyone in Cody have RSTD bars on a RSV that we could look at?

Can someone confirm if the stock handle bars on the RSV is 1 inch outside diameter and 7/8" inside diameter? What's the length of the bar? (I can't find my flexible measuring stuff ergh!) Thanks in advance.

First off, I'm sorry for the novel. I'll try to stay on point so nobody has to read my rambling. I get tingly fingers in my right hand when I ride. I'll start by explaining my position when riding. I have all original equipment on my 06 RSTD as far as handlebars and grips are concerned. I have a Throttle Rocker installed. When I ride, my arms have a VERY slight bend at the elbow. I do have a driver backrest but I don't feel I use it to it's full potential because I feel like I have to stretch to reach the handlebars. Here's what I've done... I just ordered a set of Flanders bars (yes, I ordered the correct one for the RSTD) and also Kuryakyn ISO grips with Kuryakyn Bullet End Weights. My thinking is that I am experiencing problems from stretching too far to reach the bars which is why I ordered the Flanders bars. I figured the ISO grips would be a little nicer on the hands than the narrower, stock grips. The end weights I ordered mainly because I don't have the tools (or the machanical ability) to fabricate my stock ends to work with both the ISO grips and the Flanders bars (although I know there are some that have done it with no issues). I haven't installed any of this stuff yet but I'll certainly let everone know when I do. This is where I get concerned... Tonight I rode about 60 miles after work (it's a nice day in Mid-West Wisconsin so I thought a little trip around the block was called for) SORRY... STARTING TO RAMBLE!! Back on point - as I was riding a thought crossed my mind. What if it's my Throttle Rocker that is causing my problems? Has anyone else ever had problems with the Throttle Rocker? I'm interested in everyones feedback on that and also any input you may have to reassure me that changing out my handlebars and grips is worth doing and something a mildly mechanical person like myself can accomplish. **Note - I did plan to just relocate the cables with the new bars. I didn't purchase the SS upgrade.** I read A LOT of posts about the bars and I think I can, I think I can, I think I can... Please provide any feedback you think my help/reassure me. Thanks all, Les

#1.The Flanders bars have two part numbers. The 650-08783 @ http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=650-08783&x=15&y=17 #2.and this part number 650-08373 @ http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/ImportFat/ImportFLT_Type.html They look like possibly the same :confused24: Which is normally used on the RSTD #1-08783, or #2-08373 ? Thanks for any and all information / insight / warnings / links for best price / advice. I will appreciate it please. Fuzzy

I recently finished doing an upgrade on my handle bars, using the Flanders bars and cables from Buckeye Performace. Using a lot of info form here, everything turned out great. So I am on to my next project: Looking to improve the sound from my 2008 RSV. I have replaced the stock exhaust with Harley Roadking's. but I am interested in trying out some Vance & Hines slip on's. Does anybody here, have that exhaust on thier bike ? I have heard and seen a small clip on youtube, but not a lot of information there. Steve

Now that Bubber has been able to get a set of RSTD bars, let's start this again to see if we can find me a set. I know we had some posts on the other thread, but I need to find a set for someone who is a bit financially challenged when it comes to the bike fund. Has anybody else got another set?

Just wanted to know if there are any RSTD bars with weights out there for sale. Kregerdoodle tells me that the RSV weights won't work with the RSTD bars so I will need the whole set-up. Any body up-grade to Flanders and now has the bars for the RSTD? I may have stuff to trade if that works for you. Oh ya! 2006 Midnight 2nd Gen. Bubber PS: I be asking at some of the other forums too. Thanks much!

So after a lot of searching, I was not able to locate any threads specific to putting Flanders bars on an RSTD other than which ones and that they work well. I have wanted to do this for a while but was apprehensive about the cable and hose length when I saw different pictures of scooters with the new bars on. After starting to develop a sore left shoulder blade, my wife said it was time for me to go for it. Worst case, put the stock bars back on and sell the Flanders. Good enough. Since I couldn’t find a thread specific to RSTD's, I figure this was a good chance for me to contribute to the site and other RSTD owners who may want to put these bars on their scooter but are not sure how to do it or may be a little nervous about tearing apart their bike. Who knows, it may even end up in the tech library . I am mechanically inclined and I do most all my own car/house/electrical work. In hind sight, this job can be done by anyone with a small amount of skill, a few tools and the guts to try something. Really, what’s the worst that could happen? That being said, after I bought the bars, I was ready to tackle this project. I tore into this about 5 PM on Thursday and finished up around 10 PM (without putting the end weights on, more on that later) that same night. I did some internet price searching and found the bars that are recommended at a great price on this web site http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-12346-19-7-flanders-1-inch-handlebars.aspx. I want to throw a BIG plug for these folks. They listed the bar for $120.95 on their site which is a GREAT price IMHO. I figured out that their store is here in San Diego, so I called them and went to pick up the bars (no shipping cost). When I got there, they sold me the bars at a discount as compared to the online price (maybe a break for being military) and I got them for $120.66 out the door (after the ‘governator’ got his cut of course). ALL the folks there were really friendly and most of them ride. Overall had a great experience and will go back for other custom parts. Here are the specifics on the Flanders bar as compared to the stock bar: 650-08373, Flanders Pullback Handlebars, Chrome, Metric Knurled (4" in side x 5" out side) - - - - - - - - Flanders - -Stock (06-09 RSTD) Height: - - - -9”- - - - - -8” Pullback: - -18.5”- - - -16.5” Center: - - - 8.5” - - - - 8” Width: - - - - 33”- - - - -33” Diameter - - 1”- - - - - -1” Here is the visual difference: The first two pics shows the pull back, the bar knurls are on top of each other. This one shows the added rise: Here are the steps I took. First step was to remove the windshield and put somewhere safe. Second and probably the most important one, COVER EVERYTHING in the area that is painted or chromed (ask me how I know this). I covered the tank, light bucket to start and then the cowling (after the aforementioned ‘ask me’ incident) so as not to ding anything as I went. After covering everything, I removed the speedometer, two 8mm bolts in the back and 1 allen bolt in the front. Once the speedo is loose, there is one connector covered by a rubber boot. To remove the connector, slide back the boot and there is a catch on the top in the center (yellow arrow). Push that in and the connector will come right out with a little jiggling. Below the speedometer are two black quick release zip ties. Lift the tab sticking out of the tie to release the lock, remove and set aside for later. After the zip ties, I released the plastic clamps that hold the cables on the sides of the stock handle bars, no pics of this, I just slid the clamp portion apart by hand and they opened right up. Now all the cables and hoses were loose. Next I removed the brake and clutch reservoirs. Pop out the chrome caps that cover the bolts then remove the two allen bolts that hold the clamp to the bar. HOLD ONTO THE MIRROR as you loosen the bolts, it will slip and turn (ask me how I know this one too). Once the bolts were out, I placed the assembly over the front of the forks between my head lamp and driving light. Repeat same process for the other side for the clutch reservoir. After the clutch is off, it’s easy to get to the two Phillips screws that hold the turn signal housing. Remove the screws and both assemblies can be put off to the side or front to keep them out of the way. Next I removed the throttle housing held in by two Phillips screws: Once the two screws are removed, the back half with the cruise control buttons and kill switch can be placed off to the side, just slip the wire housing out from the bottom of the front piece of the chrome housing. I had forgot this until later when it FELL OFF and hit the cowling (see first ‘ask me’ statement). Next, I loosened the throttle cables so the grip and the rest of the housing can be removed. I loosened the lock nut on the cable and then turn the adjusting screw to the stop to allow the most slack on the upper cable. This loosened the top cable enough to allow for removal from the throttle. I turned the throttle clockwise (as looking) at it as I slipped a scribe under the cable to pull it over the channel and then pushed the end through the holder. Picture isn’t real clear in the area I was working, but you get the idea. With the upper cable removed, the lower cable comes off easily the same way. Now the housing can be put off to the side. Next step is to remove the bar end weights. Pop the chrome cap and remove the center allen bolt. If this is the first time you are removing this bolt, it may be tight due to having red thread lock on it. With the bar end weight off, the throttle will slip off easily (make sure it doesn’t fall off when you remove the bar end weight). Remove the clutch side bar end the same way. At this point the stock bars should be pretty naked, accept the clutch side grip. I held off on removing this grip until I knew that the bars were going to fit the way I wanted, but it can be remove easily at any point. I slipped a scribe (small screw driver will work) between the grip and the bar and slowly moved it around the bar being careful not to damage the inside of the grip. Then I sprayed some lube (I used Sea Foam spray lubricant, but WD-40 or equivalent will work) between the grip and the bar. I worked it back and forth, this loosened the grip and it slipped right off. The stock bars are now ready to be removed. They are held in by two clamps with two allen bolts each. Loosen one bracket at a time. When you loosen the second bracket, HOLD ON TO THE HANDLE BARS (ask me how I know this one, glad the tank was covered). With the clamps off, the bars are free for removal. The new bars are ready to be put on. Just install them in the clamps and make sure they are centered between them. I positioned them in a neutral spot for height knowing I would have to adjust them once everything was on. This allowed for testing cable, wire and hose lengths. In order to make things easier, I removed the bracket at the top of the forks. Two allen bolts and it comes right off. This can be done before installing the new bar; I just didn’t realize I needed to until I got to this point. I found that the left side cables and hoses had plenty of room, but the right was going to be the challenge. The first thing I noticed that would need to change was the routing of the throttle cable. The cable was under the wire run to the headlight. The pencil in this picture is on top of the throttle cables and is pointing to the wire going to the head light is. In order to get the cables over the top, I needed to remove them from the chrome housing. I didn’t want to try and fit the chrome housing through the small space and scratch it when getting the cables off was so easy. One Phillips screw holds the clamp for the top cable and then it slips right out. The bottom one is screwed in, need to release the lock nut and then turn it off. Count the number of turns to remove so you know how far is goes back in when you reinstall. No pics, but pretty easy to do. Once the cables are out of the housing, it was a simple matter of feeding them back under the wire going to the head light. The cable now goes over the wire giving extra length and better options for routing. I had to test fit the throttle over the ends a couple times to find the right routing. The mounting of the throttle housing needs a hole in the bar to hold it in place. I measured the stock hole location so the mounting would be the same on the new bars. Stock location should be 6 19/32”. The tape was slipping when I took the picture, but 6 9/16” would work. The length from the end was easy; getting it the right way vertically was more challenging. I lined up the stock bars next to the Flanders to get a good idea of where to hole should be. The rest I just eyeballed. I marked the hole and then placed the housing pin over the mark to make sure it was in the right place. The picture shows two marks, the first one was for horizontal, the second for vertical, so the lower mark is the one I was using to test with. After lining up the housing and checking the about 10 times (a little nervous about drilling a hole in the bars), I took a swig of beer and hit the mark with a punch to dent the bar. Then a couple more swallows of beer, it was time to drill. After drilling a small pilot hole, I used a graduated metal bit to enlarge the hole to the right size. I put the throttle housing in the hole and everything lined up great. Next hurdle was the brake line. The stock position is in front of the forks and there was not enough slack to position the brake reservoir properly without really putting strain on the hose. I decided that I wanted to move the hose to the back of the forks as others have mentioned doing, but I didn’t want to remove the brake hose to do it (draining system, re-bleeding, blah blah). After some fiddling, I figured out that there was not enough room to fit the reservoir between the forks and the tank without some help by removing parts. I removed the right mirror (NOTE: the threading on the right mirror is reverse, that is why there is a notch in the lock nut) and the brake handle. The headlight bucket was also in the way and had to be moved to the left. Three 8mm bolts from the inside and it was loose and moved out of the way. With the fork at the left lock, a little fiddling and slow moves, I fit the reservoir through the gap in the forks. I had to go hose first, reservoir upright and clamp hole toward fork. Sorry I didn’t get pics of that step. I did the shift without hurting anything. I can tell you it was a tight fit, but go slow and you can do it. Once I had the hose through, the main thing I was concerned about was pinching the hose between the forks and the frame or tank when the bars were at the right locks. As long as the hose is next to the fork, there was no binding or pinching. This was accomplished later by zip tying the hose to the wires. If you use Zip ties, do not pull them too tight, don't want them hurting the brake hose. Just enough to hold it in place worked. (I had to go back and take these pics because the first ones didn’t come out well so these show everything put back together.) The wires and hose for the right side going to the cruise control and the brake had to be routed under the speedo and closer to the handlebar bracket. I thought I might have to pull the tank and find more slack on the wires, but turns out just messing with the routing gave enough play. The throttle cables used to go under the bracket for the windshield, when I was done; they ended up coming through the gap in the speedo housing. I had to bend the guide down to get the cables to stay down some. This shows where the cable goes under the Speedo housing. The left side was much easier. The wires and hoses just ran tighter to the bars but there was plenty of room. When I put on the left grip, I figured I would have to use some grip tape or adhesive. I was positioning the grip in place just to test fit and after it sat for a minute or two, the thing didn’t move, so I just left it. (fortunately, it was in the right place) I figure there must have been enough adhesive residue left on it to hold. Since finishing, I have had the bike out in the sun and heat and it still doesn’t move, so I held off putting anything under it. If it shifts at all, I will put some grip tape under it. You may want to use some to start with, your call. Everything gets mounted back the same way it came off except the bar end weights (more on those at the end). There is no alignment hole for the turn signal housing, just put it the way you had it or whatever is comfortable. You will have to re-align your mirrors because of the height and pullback change, but that is easy. I am sure everyone has done that, but if not, the directions are in the owner’s manual. Before putting the speedo and the headlight back on, I moved the bars lock to lock several times to make sure there was no binding or pinching. Everything was clear, so I put her all back together. Tested the throttle several times as I went, pulling lock to lock to make sure there were no issues. Worked great with no binding. I also tested the bar height to get close. I knew I would have to adjust them after riding and I was right. I had them too high to start so I just pull the speedo back off, loosened the clamps a little and pulled them down. Just make sure they don’t hit your legs at the locks. Last step was to reset the throttle play by tightening up the cable nut and then setting the lock nut. After everything was back on, I had to wait until the next morning to test ride. Between the late hour and having consumed several Guinness drafts during the change, I opted to wait until morning. My buddy that was helping me told me when we were done that we should have got picture of the arm position with the stock bars and then with the Flanders. Of course, we didn’t think of this until after the Flanders bar was on. Oh well, not putting the stock one back on for that. I can tell you that these bars are incredible. It is so much nicer to have that extra pull back, has to be one of the best mods next to the air horns. Not sure if I notice the height change as much, but there are more options for positions overall. Here is what you can expect to see when the project is done. (Ignore the man in the mirror, he is insignificant) ======================================================================== THE STOCK BAR ENDS As promised, here is my idea for keeping the stock bar end weights. Not sure if I should have put this in a separate thread, but here it is. I have read where several people changed to the ISO grips with the Flanders handle bars, but I really like the stock grips and weights, and I don’t like the stiletto bar ends that go with the ISO grips, so I had to figure out how to put the stock weights back on. I read Freebird’s tech article on switching the stock bar end weight holders, but when I took the grips off, there were no tack welds to be found. I think they may be pressed in. I pulled on them, put a bolt in and hit it with a hammer and the things won’t budge. So that solution wasn’t going to work. I may try more later on, but I don’t want to hurt the stock bars as I plan on selling them at a later date. Here is my fix for keeping the stock bar ends. It was a little different, but it worked. I figure they need some rubber so they are flexible and absorb the vibration so I came up with this plan. I went to the hardware store and picked up a 1/4x4” bolt, ¼” flat washer and matching nut. Also picked up a nylon spacer, 1” long, 1/2“ OD and .257” ID. They are in the bins at Home Depot in the bolt isle. I cut the spacer in half with a hack saw at a heavy angle so it looked like this: Then I ran the bolt through the weight and the spacer, putting a washer in between the spacer and the nut on the end. The theory being that if the spacer is pulled together, it will expand as I tightened the bolt. Next I covered the spacer with a strip of old inner tube I had lying around (kind of a pack rat). I wrapped it until it was the same diameter as the inside of the handle bars, about 7/8”. I had to keep test fitting and cutting back on the amount of tubing until it was snug inside the bar. The final layer was a short piece of grip tape (from changing my golf club grips, again, I am a packrat). Make sure the first layer of rubber hits the nut to keep it from moving. I could have glued the nut to the spacer, but this worked too. I ended up with the tape because I found the rubber would slip a little while trying to tighten the end down. Now it’s ready to fit into the bar. Before putting it in the last time with the tape, I put a light layer of lighter fluid on the tape. This allowed the rubber and tape to slip into the hole and evaporates pretty fast. After it set for a minute to let the lighter fluid evaporate, I twisted the bar end clockwise and it snugged right up. I tugged a couple of times and it held. It took several attempts to get it right, including pushing rubber into the throttle, and having to thump the left one with a rubber mallet to seat it, but with a little patience, it worked. I have ridden the bike several times since I did this and the bar ends are just as tight as when I started. I was a little worried about losing one, but it seems to be holding. If this changes and one pops out, you folks will be the first to know. I am still going to try and get the stock nuts out of the stock bars, but that is later. Hope this helps some of your folks out. (I can tell you this. I have a new respect for all the contributors who have written articles for the tech library.)

I've got Baron's risers on my RSV and I'm not really loving the set-up. Yes, they do put the bars back where they're comfortable for me, but they allow the stock risers to flex too much for my liking. Has anybody got a longer reach aftermarket bar they would want to sell or maybe trade for my risers? I need about another inch or two of pullback.

About a month ago I was on my way home from work. With about 25 miles to go my fuel light came on. The gage still showed 3 bars. Well 10 mile later she runs out. I have to stop, lean the bike over, turn on the key till the pump stops. Drive for a few miles and do it again. I stopped 3 time before I made it to a gas station. I filled her up as far as I could and it only took 4.6 gallons. The same thing happend last night and when I made it to the gas station I could only get 4.5 gallons in and that gage still had two bars. Has anyone else had this problem. Where is the other 1.5 gallons?

I know that I need a new front tire, and probably a fork rebuild, but this bike has the shakes. It rides good(to me) though it does have a slight wobble to it, or should I say a "light" feeling in the front end while riding. Now I had this bike up to 80 mph and it went straight down the road, but still that feeling on the bars. Going around corners(at speed) demands attention. The feeling I'm talking about is like when you're riding a fast bike hammering it(racing)and you get that "feeling" right before it pulls the front wheel off the ground. Also when its on the centerstand, if I shake the bars, the front end wobbles. The whole front of the bike shakes. I know that the front tire has a little spring to it and you can see that when it moves but I don't see anything else loose. What should I look for? Thanks for any help!