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Showing results for tags 'bar'.
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Hi folks - as I finish up Mocha and her winter maintenance I have come across another 1st Gen. It is a 1989 blue on blue royale. Nice bike but it is mising the lower fairings. Needs Right and Left lowers, front cross bar, and the lower scoop. It has 35K on it and appears good otherwise. Any ideas on the lower parts? Guess I could scour e-bay and hope. Lonestarmedic JB
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I can not believe this one......the fairing on my bike on the right hand side has always been a little out of kilter, does not mate up well I mean it is okay , but does tend to pull the windshield a bit and I had to work on my little chrome windshield strip with a heat gun.....thing is I have the fairing spit on my bike and the whole front end dis-assembled as I am building a custom light bar for the bike to fit the Baron light kit.......I noticed up at the top of the metal windshield T-bar.....that metal bar that secures the windshield , that on both end legs is a fastener designed to secure the end bar.....I looked at that....looked again.......boy this is cheep....cheap........cheeper......cheeper than dirt!! Has a little half moon mickey mouse plastic molded clip that this little rubber split washer is supposed to grip unto to hold the ends of the T-Bar. I have the T-bar fully fastened now.......afraid to tighten it much, that half moon plastic thing is so small.......and so cheep......now what kind of engineer would design something like that........think they work for Yamaha? I can see it......look at it........still do not believe it.........I am really dis-appointed in this one........a trained monkey could design something better than that.......Gee!!!
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I received today from KitCarson a Pair of Küryakyn Handle Bar Grips. ( Thank you very much ) and my question is .. How do you remove the original Grips without Destroying them.
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Hi Guys, I'm usually over on the 1st gen side of things, but I have a buddy who wants a driving light bar for his RSV and his wife asked me where to get one. What are the choices out there? Where have you bought them and for how much? Thanks, Jeremy
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I have owned a couple of sport touring bikes. What I always liked about them was the fixed fairings. I could go 90 mph, hold the handle bar with one hand while resting the other hand on my hip, and go as straight as an arrow, cutting through wind like a knife. I also owned a Harley. You couldn't ride a Harley like that. It was both hands on the bar. It always felt as if the handlbars would rip out of my hands when I rode with one hand. The RSV does not have a fixed fairing. I suspect the feeling is going to be similar to riding a Harley. I am almost sure of it. Would someone comment on this?
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i was told that someone in the organization is selling extensions for the light bar to set it a couple of inches off the fairing. i've been unable to locate any. if anyone knows who may be selling them please let me know thanks poppyrodg
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Some of went for a ride Saturday and stopped in Quitaque, Tx. for lunch. There is a resturant there called Sportsmans bar and grill that used to be a great place to grab a meal. It has changed hands since the last time I have eaten there and is no longer a place you want to eat. When we went to out table, the guy next to me banged his chair on the floor a few times before he sat down. I later asked him what that was all about the replied that there were roaches all over the chair and he was knocking them off. They had the lights turned down pretty dim, now I know why. So unless you like to dine with the roaches avoid the Sportsmans bar and grill in Quitaque, Texas.
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Anyone have one of these lying around after putting a light bar on your 2nd gen? I have a mod I'd like to try on one and use it to replace the bent light bar on my 2nd gen!
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Has anyone here installed Yamaha’s Tri Bar headlight on a 2nd Gen venture? If so do you like it? Can you change the bulb without splitting the faring? Any brighter? What about the Tri Bar passing lamps, are they much better then the stock driving lamps (guess it wouldn’t take much to beat them)? Wondering?? -
Hi Guys: Hope all is well with you and your RSV. There was a fella here, who made a spacer for the light bar (passing lamps) for Second Gen bikes. Is he still here? How do I contact? Silly question: Has anybody inverted the lights on the passing lamp bar? Put the directional signal on top and the passing lamps below. I was thinking about it, was wondering if any one had done it. Sponge Bob:confused24:
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I am having trouble with bleeding the front brakes on my wife's 2005 V-Star classic. I replaced the upper brake hose. The one from the master res. on the handle bar to the splitter. Neither of the banjo's are leaking. I replaced the fluid till it ran clear through both caliper bleeders. Now the fluid runs clear but the lever still has no back pressure. It just travels right to the handle bar. Its almost as if the piston in the master cly. is not full, and yet it pushes the fluid out the bleeders. Any suggestion would be greatly appeciated. Wayne
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I am new to this forum as well as the Venture itself. My 2003 does not have a set of driving/lights - just a single headlight. I was wondering if there was a "best" alternative for buying a set of lights and a bar that would be of high quality and that could be installed with no modifications. Appreciate any direction on this.
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At this past weekends Meet and Eat in NC several members inquired about my brake light on the trunk. Here is an movie that shows it but really does not do justice to how bright this setup is. Anyway here are the links to the strobe/flasher and light bar. I was mistaken on the price of the light bar but it's still a great deal for safety sake. Flasher:http://www.customdynamics.com/led_strobe.htm Light Bar:http://www.customdynamics.com/flex_led_array.htm Let me know if the file does not play and I'll try and upload it again. Wayne
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Now what in the world is wrong now? I can't get the CB to change channels - it stays on channel 9 no matter which buttons I push - on the CB, on the left handle bar, on the rear control. I am sure I am doing something stupid - what is it?
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I have the complete Ultimate set up for my 97 RSTD. Every once in a while I like to have just a solo look. With the Ultimate set up, the driver uses the backrest that is part of the passenger seat. So, I got hold of Bob at Utopia to find out if his backrest would work with the drivers Ultimate seat. He wasn't sure but sent me the bar to find out (at no charge mind you). Well, the bar fit so I ordered the rest of the backrest. Now, going solo with the Utopia backrest and the Ultimate drivers seat is nothing short of sweet. However, I discovered that you cannot use the passenger seat (minus the Ultimate drivers backrest) with the Utopia backrest as the seat cannot be pushed forward enough to get the rear bolt in. No biggie...use the Utopia baackrest pad with the Ultimate bar. So with this ability to have a mix and match combination you end up with the best of both worlds. Pretty cool! For my comfort I prefer the larger Utopia backrest pad, although the Ultimate backrest is certainly an excellent product. Andy
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I put the light bar on the trunk of my 87 VR - got it from big bike barn, I think. The bulbs in it are a paltry 3 watt, and it just does not show up well in day light., I have it all apart now and want to install led lights, perhaps with a dual element circuit to have the combo of running/stop lights. I want the stop lights to be BRIGHT. Any idea of where I can get them? Got some from Auto Zone. Not much better. AND - if this has been talked about aready, forgive me and just point me to the right thread!
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You may have seen my flag mounts in other threads. In response to several requests for more information on the construction, I am posting detailed info here. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Flagmount4.jpg Here is a little background info - I have used this flag mount for many hundreds of miles at highway speeds (60-80 MPH) with both 3X5 flags unfurled with no problems. Nothing is used to secure the flag poles - they just drop down into the mount tubes. This makes it especially easy to take the flags out when heading for a flag line during a PGR mission. I've seen a lot of other guys' flags come loose during missions, but this design so far seems solid. All measurements are taken to the outside edges. I like the V design, and I have not seen any others like it. Don't make it any wider than this, as the flags can get in the way (the first one I made was wider). If I was making another, I'd probably make the bottom bar 16". Here is a picture of the bottom of the mount before painting: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Flagmountunfinished3.jpg The bottom bar is 14", and it is made from 1 1/4" angle iron. The angle iron is welded to a square tube that sticks 3 1/2" out of the receiver. Ignore the bolt you see sticking down through the stinger just behind the receiver; this was originally put in for a center brace that I later removed. I just left the bolt in place because it aligns the hole for the clevis pin behind the mud flap. The tubes are 1" O.D. EMT electrical conduit, 25" long. I brazed these to the bottom bar instead of welding because of the relatively thin metal - no danger of burn-through. The middle brace is 1" flat bar brazed to the back of the tubes. It measures 18 1/2" to the outside of the tubes. I later bolted 1" aluminum angle inside that brace as an anchor point for the center brace I later removed. I never took off that aluminum angle, but there is no reason for it. Here is a closeup of the brackets that hook onto the helmet locks: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Flagmountsupport.jpg The top of the tubes measures 23" wide. The brackets I made for the helmet locks measure 5 1/2" from the eye bolts to the back of the tubes. I made these by simply taking aluminum bar stock and bending it around the tubes and riveting it together. This fits very tight, but still allows some movement that facilitates fitting the brackets over the helmet locks. Here is how I braced the flag poles: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Shelfbracket2.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Shelfbracket.jpg The flag poles are 3/4" O.D. EMT electrical conduit and 6' long. These are smaller diameter than anyone else is using, but they seem plenty strong. I originally made several 70 MPH runs with flags out without problems (even before I added the helmet lock brackets), but decided to reinforce them just to be sure. I took modular shelf wall bracket and just laid it on the driveway and started whacking it with a ball-lean hammer to force the edges together, then drove it up inside the flag poles with the hammer. This brace extends past the top of the mount tubes so the full pull of the flags doesn't cause the poles to collapse at the top of the tubes. Not sure it is necessary, but it gives me peace of mind! That's about it. Make sure you use decent sized eye bolts for the helmet lock anchors, as I had one break from the strain of a heavy flag after about 400 miles (but the rest of the flag mount made the entire mission without further damage). I have found that very light weight nylon flags put much less strain on the mounts and actually last much longer at high speeds than heavier flags. So save your money and buy cheaper flags! Goose -
One of the first things that I noticed, and others commented on also, after purchasing my '99 Royal Star Venture was the fact that there was simply not enough lighting on the rear. I did some investigating and found a number of LED light bars made specifically for motorcycles but the prices were crazy. Then as I was browsing through my local "Autozone" parts store one day, I happened upon a LED light bar with a price under $20.00. The LED bar contains 20 LEDs and is made by Pilot. The part number is WE6-197. It was the perfect length to mount under the truck of my new Venture so I bought it and went about figuring out the best way to mount it. I made a trip to my local "Home Depot" and browsed through the hardware and fastener section until I came up with an item that they called "handlebar clips". Basically they are just spring steel clips available in various sizes. I bought a couple of them, drilled a 1/8" hole in the base of them, took the LED bar across and secured the clips to it with small screws through the holes I drilled in the clips and matching holes drilled in the housing of the LED. I made the connections to the brake wiring behind the license plate. You must take care here that you connect the positive lead coming out of the LED bar to the positive (hot) lead of the brake light or running lights depending upon how you want to wire the LEDs. This is perhaps the cheapest modification you can make to the rear of your Venture and is worth every penny due to the increase visibility that it will give the rear of your bike. http://www.venturerider.org/pilotlight/831.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/pilotlight/light_bar1.jpg
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Submitted by Tony Dathan. Problem: One of the common complaints about the Yamaha passing light kit for the RSV is that it mounts so close to the fairing that removing the fairing becomes very difficult requiring one to either remove or loosen the passing light bracket. Installation: When the bracket arrives you will need 2 3/8" NC x 3/4" long bolts and lock washers. I got these at Home Depot for under two bucks. Undo your light bar. Use the 8mm bolts to fasten the bracket where the light bar was and then using the 3/8" bolts bolt the light bar to the bracket. Most of us that have the bracket can now split the fairing without touching the light bar or at least just loosening it a few turns. Might depend on the actual lights you have. Basically you undo the light bar, put the bracket where the bar was, then mount the light bar to the bracket! How to get one: You can contact me at dathan@shaw.ca The price at this time is $27.50 USD. That includes the postage as well! The following are some shots I've taken in the past! #5 shows the clearance between the back of the light and the fairing. This started as a way of my being able to clean between the light and the fairing. Taking the fairing off without touching the light bar was just a huge bonus!
