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Showing results for tags 'adjustment'.
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...or "you-should-do-the-things-your-mother-told-you-do" During the last meet and eat I attended my "mother" gave me a valve adjustment tool along with a bag of pads; "mother" told me to make sure I recorded everything to keep the whole process very organized. So I decided to make up this little table in MS Excel (no formulae, just a table). You can print it out and have a handy sheet to record all your values. I've found it very helpful; thanks for your advice, "Mother". This should be useful whether you own a first or a second generation Venture....IF you want to do what Mother says you should do.
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I took my '07 RSV into the dealer yesterday for a valve adjustment and to check a couple of other things. One of which was the clutch basket chirp. They ordered the new basket right away and should have it in a few days. I'm going to pick the bike up tomorrow so I'll have it to ride on the weekend and then I'll take it back in next week for the clutch install and valve adjustment. The clutch chirp has started to annoy me and I believe it is getting worse as I put on more miles. I've got about 30k on it now. Hope it helps a bit. Dennis
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While I'm waiting for my new clutch upgrade to arrive, the OEM clutch is slipping a lot now.. I'm wondering if something is out of adjustment.. I don't fully understand how these clutches work or if they can be adjusted but here goes. While traveling 70 mph in either 4th or 5th, if I come onto the throttle, the clutch slips badly.. Today for the fun of it, I just touched the clutch inwards a bit and the revs came up fast.. wow, not too much pressure.. but only when at 70 mph in 5th.. city street speeds and gears doesn't really have that effect.. Would I be lucky enough that there is a quick adjustment that can be made to make the clutch better? The bike is still ride-able, just can't drop the hammer on it.. sigh
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Just this evening I discovered that the problem I have had with hard shifting is due to defective linkage. The adjustment arm had been strippped and simply glued into the threaded part and of course it is out of adjustment. Of course, the PO failed to mention this as well. So, now I am on a hunt for the shift linkage for a 1st edition. If anyone has this linkage assembly and is willing to part with it, please either post your cost or IM me with the amount. I can pay however you want. Looked on flea bay but nothing there.
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Do you all want to get together for a maintenance day. I do. We can gather for a day of valve adjustment, beer, float adjustment, beer, bullsh*ting, beer and whatever else. PM me or someone and lets setup a time and get r done.
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I have a couple of questions before several of us head to the Smokys in June. In reality how often should we be checking the valve adjustment, and is there a tech article for it that I can't locate? Thanks Guys
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I have noticed that the clutch is starting to engage with the lever just barely off the grip. Also the bike tries to move forward if I start the engine in gear, with the clutch lever pulled all the way back, but does not move after the engine starts. It shifts fine and does not try to creep while I'm stopped at a traffic light, nor does it leak down while I'm waiting for the light to change. It just appears that an adjustment is needed. I have downloaded the repair manual for my bike (1998 RSTC) and cannot find any mention of adjustment. Suggestions anyone? -
I am about to break into the carbs and change my diaphraghms. while I was in there I was going to adjust the needles and do the 1st gen Mk1 version of changing the spacer. I need to know a couple of things. Which way do I adjust the needles? In or out? Second everyone mentions to adjust he mixture screws to 2.5 turns Where are the mixture screws and 2.5 turns from bottomed out or completely loose? Does anyone have detailed information about the carbs? a full step by step details on adjustment? The factory service manual in the tech section has no information at all on carb adjustment or even needle adjustment. only disassembly and rebuild. Thanks! -
Is it possible to adjust the angle of the shifter? I need the toe lower and the heel higher. I see an adjustment screw (?) just forward of the pivot point. Bike is new and have had some problems going in 1st past neutral when downshifting to a stop. I have also had an incident when shifting up using the heel shifter. The neutral problem makes me move the clutch handle out to help shift down to 1st (not a good feeling when sitting at a stop light). Any suggestions? Thanks!
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I am needing to find the plug that goes into the hole to hide the bolt for the handle bar adjustment nut. Any suggestions? Thanks
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well i used the new tire changer i designed and fabricated. it has the harbor freight car tire base with bead breaker and my own design motorcycle attachment. the wheel diameter adjustment has an infinate size adjustment, unlike the harbor freight one that uses pins. i also made it out of stainless steel tubing so there is no paint to rub off on the rims. after fighting with my v-star rear tire for a half hour. i figured out what works best and the tire came off slick as a whistle. it was a total success. can't believe i did'nt do this years ago. i have got a few more ideas to improve it but it works absolutley perfect like it is. the next thing i am going to do with it is make a steel work table that i can mount on the base. when i'm not using it as a tire changer. it's bolted to the floor in my shop by my welders so it will double as a welding table also. pics to come soon.
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Does the rear shock have a manual adjustment on it
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Where is the "Idle Adjustment Screw" on a 86 VR located. If somebody has a good picture of where it is located, I would appreciate the opportunity to look at it. I have a Yamaha Service Manual; however, I think the author needs to take the pictures again. Most of the pictures in my manual are cloudy and dark. Really hard to tell anything using the pictures. Anyway from what I have read on this website, the Idle Adjustment Screw is on the "left side of the bike as you are sitting on it. It is plastic and does not have a slot or is not designed to use a screwdriver. It must be turned by hand." Is this correct? Does the Idle Screw face outward, towards the front or back of the bike, up, or down? Any help or instructions as to the location would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas -
I removed the PMS caps from my carbs last Saturday and turned then out 1/4 turn each. ( I also plugged the AIS and synced the carbs) I started noticing some popping on decel after that. This evening I checked the adjustment on each carb. They ranged from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 turns out! I tried to adjust them by ear but I couldn't hear enough difference to do it that way. I wrote down the adjustments on each in case I needed to go back and then set them all to 2 1/4 out. The result: The bike started easier than it ever has and when I took it for a spin it seemed to be more responsive; more crisp. Anyone else have a similar experience? Do you think I'm close on the adjustment? Is there a better way to adjust them w/out buying a carb-tune or EG analyzer? -
on my 05 RSTD (12k miles) and it was WAY easy. If anybody in the DFW needs help, let me know, I have the mercury sticks and it didn't take 10 minutes. Now if only the valve adjustment would be this easy... -
I just bought a very clean, low-mileage '84 and am working my way through a few issues. Probably the most troubling is the bottoming and nearly complete lack of dampening on the front forks. They are so bad that I can bounce them up and down (with or without brake applied) and hear them hit what appears to be the end of their travel. The PO had someone do a variety of work to this bike including "replacing fork seals" although I don't see any parts on the work order for over 6 hours of labor! Since I could see that there was a leak at the lower mating surface of the left anti-dive, I drained all the oil from that side. After removing the EAND, I cleaned and inspected the o-rings and grooves. They were not hard not flattened and had no nicks. So, I put them back in, put a light coating of Yamabond on the surface and tightened the bolts. After I put in 13.5 oz of 15W oil, I let it sit for 24 hours, aired it up to about 13 with the CLASS and found virtually no difference. While I have a spare set of forks from another '84, I really hate to do the swap and brake bleeding if I don't need to. There is an apparent adjustment at the bottom of each of these and some mention in the Tech area about the Service Manual "being wrong". All it says is to "turn the bolt to the maximum (??) position. Compress the front forks while applying the front brake. If the forks compress easily, the anti-dive system may be damaged. Is it worth fooling with this adjustment? Is it worth swapping out this unit from a different fork? Is it possible that the fork springs are so weak that this might be the only cause (It is 24 years old, but only has 31K). Could the mechanic that the PO used have misassembled something that would allow such clunky bottoming? (There are no apparent fork leaks). If he simply put the springs in upside down; would that allow this condition? Any ideas will be appreciated. Murph' -
Is there a way to access the pilot jets without removing the carbs? I'd like to try richening them up one notch. I was also going to raise the jet needles up and found that there were no adjustment grooves. Do you use washer type shims, or do you need different needles? Thanks, Gary
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I have read all of the headlight adjustment post but none tell you which adjustment screw is "up and down" or "right to left". I'm refering to the small recessed screws on the outside (left and right side) of the headlight housing. I was orginally going to change the bulb (to a super white) and adjust the light but I can't get the screws out that hold the headlight ring into the housing. I'm almost to the point of stripping the screw heads. So, I thought I would just adjust the headlight. Thus far I'm landing lear jets on low beam and 747s on high beam. Any help would be appreciated. http://www.yamahamotorcycleforum.com/forum/images/wow/misc/progress.gif -
Brackets arrived from Squid and now I can't choose lights..My nomad had 55 watt "spots" made by Harley mounted up above center line of headlight which threw the light out well ahead and easily adjustable due to height. Now with the lower mounting position on the 87' and I am sure alot less adjustment angle, would I be farther ahead to use a Amber/clear "fog lamps"? Are you using using fog lamps or spotlights? Pro's --Con's ? 35 watt seems to me to be the choice for the charging system.. Thanks in advance Dave
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Well, it took about 3000 miles, but the Metzler 880 on the back finally started blowing chunks. It stranded me on m way to work this morning at 6:15 AM in the dark. Thankfully, a police officer equipped me with flares while I waited for AAA to show up and scoop the scoot off the road. The dealer only had the same tire in stock. I was in a bit of a rush and had him put it on. Metzler is referring me back to the place I bought for any warranty adjustment and said the Yamaha dealer should have taken care of it. Mine was made in Germany, not Brazil, so I figured I was to be spared the agony of the defects. Will keep you posted.
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So the oil get pumped up to the cams and then drips off onto the heads, but where does it go from there???????? I am quite used to looking at automotive heads and there are drain holes to get the oil back into the pan, but I can't seem to find any on a first gen. The reason I'm asking this, is that when I was doing the tappet adjustment, one side of the head was full of oil, so how come, it just can't keep pumping it up there with no place to drain it away. An inquiring mind needs an answer.
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Is it true that the 2nd gens don't have the Auto/Manual Air Suspension Adjustment like the 1st gens did? If not, do you have to manually put in air? Need to carry air pump with you?
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In the 12 years I have had my 83 Venture, I have tried several things to improve the headlight situation. The best thing I did was to upgrade to the headlight assembly from an 86 up. It is a big improvement. On ebay right not there is a 90 1st gen being parted that has good starting bid prices on these parts. For someone wanting to do a headlight upgrade, this might be a good oportunity to pick up all the parts needed. I am going to post the link to the headlight bucket and I hope I am not stepping on someone's toes by posting this, but this is the 1st time in a while I have seen these parts available. You will need the; headlight bucket adjustment assy headlight ring upper frame that holds the dash left side frame that mounts the adjustment assy bottom strip the connects the upper fairings that the headlight bucket sits in. If you could do a little welding and have a late 1st gen to go by, you could modify the frames off the 83/85 to accept the headlight mounts and the adjustment assy. RandyA http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230204705320&rd=1 -
Hello.... I am new to this forum as well a new owner of a 2006 RSV Midnight. Is there a way to adjust the horizontal on the headlight. I adjusted the vertical using the adjustment knob beneath the left side of the fairing My headlight is pointing to the right about 15 degrees. Thanks Al Tomlinson Bisbee, AZ
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Is there an air/ fuel mixture srew, I heard you turn this screw 2 turns out, where is this screw located? Thank You, David M:confused07:
