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Posts posted by gator06
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I have cut open a Mobile-1 110 , the filter size , material and bypass, beats everything else i have seen. I will not use anything else anymore.
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Not a first genner, but, I use a Mobile 1 filter, 110 I think. I have cut open some filters and by far the Mobile 1 has the best quality. I will use no other.
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WHAT HE SAID
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Awesome time spent with a bunch of Venture riders. The Host and Hostess have a big heart to allow a bunch of folks to invade there space. Louise and I wish to get more involved and help were we can in the years to come. Miss you all till next time!
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Thanks Leadwolf56 for opening the door:stirthepot:
My warranty has expired, so
I have replaced the stock air box with Pod Filters fitted to my carbs. I also have Roadking pipes with Fulsack baffles in them. VMax cams and a VMax Final Drive. I have a stage one rejet and looking at going to stage 2. My plugs look good- lite tan color.
The VMax Final Drive swap made my MPG go up. Love it.
My mileage at last check was 39 mpg with 2 up and full bags on a weekend trip. I roll on the throttle hard, the wife likes the acceleration.
We love to ride.
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There are 3 boxes in the turn signal / emergency flasher system.
From looking at the wiring diagram, the box that actually turns the bulbs on and off (flashes) and most likely a current sensing circuit, has 2 wires going to it, Brown and Brown/ White. The second box is the auto cancel and has a wire coming from the speed sensor, and the third is a control box for the turn signals and emergency flasher functions.
If anyone has tried to put in an aftermarket flasher unit, it would be the two wire electronic type. (example: the same flasher unit you would put in a car after installing trailer wiring and your blinkers flash to fast).
:no-no-no:This info is looking at a wiring diagram only.
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With the LEDs in, you are drawing so little current, the flasher system thinks one of your bulbs is burnt out, and is letting you know there is something wrong. A load resister increase current and the flasher system is satisfied. I'm not sure what unit or relay controls this effect. I can try to look into it more tomorrow.
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I let them blink fast. Gets the attention of the cagers
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I have LEDs front and back turn signals and brake light.
When I replaced just the back or just the front turn signals they functioned normally.
If you replace both front and back turn signals they will blink fast.
My auto cancel function still works with both front and back LED turn signal bulbs installed .
If your bulb cover is amber, use amber LEDs.
If your bulb cover is red, use red LEDs.
If your bulb cover is clear use the proper color LED for it's function.
I kike the crispness of LEDs.
I tried LEDs in my spot lights, and liked them, but the vibration broke them after 1 month. I haven't found a sturdy H3 LED as of yet.
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Love it, Gas mileage up a little. Cant wait to pull my Aspen and not have to down shift.
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Iv'e been looking at replacing my radio with a Jensen Marine MSR2007 or JMS2212
It has a head unit that might fit were the stock controller is and a remote amp that should fit where the stock amp is.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/JENSEN-MSR2007-Waterproof-AM-FM-iPod-SIRIUS-Ready-/00/s/MjE4WDIzNw==/$%28KGrHqIOKjIE5Vby%2199dBOe8B%21lTKQ%7E%7E60_35.JPG -
My 06 RSV was sluggish just off idle till 2000 rpm. I raised my carb floats to there high end dimensions ( highest recommended fuel level ) and its much better. Better MPG also.
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Just did mine this winter, by far the best mod you can do for your RSV. If you pull a heavy trailer this mod should be seriously considered. I do not feel the wind resistance as much ether. My first tank this year got me 39 MPG, better then last year ( I ride hard ). If your looking for quick starts and more performance you will need to upgrade your clutch and install a Dyna ignition.
I enjoy it.
PS. You will pull ahead of a stock Harley
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15 more years till retirement.
Then ask me.
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I ware a Helmet, But it's one that fits and weighs less then DOT. DOT is a pain in my neck.
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Don't forget to work some waterproof grease into the SHIFT LINKAGE joints and bushings. Mine were rusty. After that grease both ends of the drive shaft plus the rear wheel drive fingers and mating spline, this will help a stock bike shift better.
I use Mobile 1 Synthetic Motorcycle oil with a Mobile One filter. Cheep oil and no grease will effect your shifting experience.
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If you have to rock the bike in gear to get the starter to work, you may want to check the natural switch for intermittent contacts.
Could the arching of the contacts be causing a false signal to the TCI cut off circuit, and the frequency (speed) of the arching being transmitted to the tach. :stirthepot:Some times my mind wanders.
Gator06
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Check the connections around the fuse box, starter relay and starter. Sounds like a loose and/or shorted connection.
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How about a cam gear tooth?
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I put Rotella in my bike this spring, and within one week I new something was wrong. Smelled like burnt oil coming from my crank case breather. I changed to MC oil and all seems well again. When I investigated the oil specs further I found that Rotella has a CI ratting also and Yamma says to stay away from Diesel ratings. I believe the clutch burns up the oil or maybe the oil burns up the clutch. No more smell. All seems well.
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My 06 RSV had a TPS that was not in spec either. I had to take the TPS out, remove the metal oblong inserts and file them to obtain a better reading. I set the TPS on the high side and the bike does have more mid range power. My low end is still poor. If you look in the owner’s manual under specs, you will find a statement in the timing area that at 3500 RPM you should be at 45 deg. BTDC. (off the top of my head). The oil flies out of the timing hole above idle so I am going to try and make a plexiglass plug to fit the hole and check the statement. HMMMMMMM!!! ???? Does the TPS and Speed sensor set up the timing curve???????
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I just completed two grease job's on the drive line. Spray will not get to where it's needed. Next time you lube the drive shaft and final drive fingers, use a Water Proof / Marine - Molly grease. I use Shaffer brand grease, stays where you put it.
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I had a 98 RS. Put K&N filters on the carbs, Removed the packing on the baffles in my V&H slip-on's and re-jetted to stage 3. Theirs an article out there covering the procedure. Do a search for the " Big Foot Mod " You will be surprised, no more down shifting to pass!!!
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Check your ground strap. One end on the left side of the radio and the other end under the right neck cover. I found the ground under the neck cover only finger tight and not making good contact. A little sanding paper and some dielectric grease. I could hear the difference in my radio.
Just finished the 100 watt EQ Mod with Duel ds-42 speakers front and rear with baffles. NICE.
gator06
whats every ones age?
in VR Polls
Posted
Are WE old riders or WISE riders???