Bubblezdamunky
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Posts posted by Bubblezdamunky
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I had that exact cup holder for my last bike and it works good once you get it locked on but be careful with that locking mechanism. Usually by the time it's tight enough to actually grip you're liable to break that plastic tab you have to press down on. I just picked one up on Amazon for my venture that is that exact same design except it's got a thumbscrew turn knob a thing to grip it down that if you really want to crank it down you can put a pair of vice grips on I would recommend that other style I'm attaching a picture of the one I got it's so much simpler to use . I bought a 3 pack of the 1 you had managed to break all 3
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I saw a post on here from Buddy Rich that's about 10 years old. Where at the time he was selling plastic pieces that can be attached to the leg farings to block wind from your knees. It's an old topic and I know a lot of things aren't the same way that used to be but does he or anyone else still sell something like this. I would be very interested in purchasing that if that's the case. I don't know how to link a thread or I would link the thread I'm referring to in here.
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Hey I see this is a really old post and I hate to bring back the dead but I could really use something like this product does anyone know if this is still being sold and if so what's the new price
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Hey guys I have the 99 model with the flat panel seat and I absolutely hate the riding position it puts me in. I have heard that the pillow top is so much better problem is I cannot find one anywhere used on the Internet is anybody selling/willing to sell or Know someone who is willing to sell the pillow top seat. I'm more than willing to work out a fair price and I'll pay shipping. Please help my butt will thank you
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On 10/4/2021 at 3:44 PM, M61A1MECH said:
Actually there is a small white two pin connector on the left side down by the battery, it is a low amperage maybe 5 amps max, I am pretty sure it is switched with the ignition. When you find it you will see that what you have is a dummied off connector with a seal pug in where the wire with a seal goes, you could also access that. You could do as I proposed above and put a fuse in the circuit going to the USB charger to protect the tail light circuit, you do not want to lose that light because the USB port goes south.
Here is link to an old post about that connector near the battery maybe this will help. If you decide to go with the white 2-pin, I have the correct contacts and seals for that style connector.
Hey is this the plug you were referring to. So if I were to wire something up to that plug is that plug with a 5:00 a.m. fuse it would give me power only when the bike is keyed on?
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Hey guys so I just bought a venture last week as some of you might remember from helping me in the buying process with advice. I have a 99 model with with the flat panel seats. While I like the amount of cushion on this seat I really hate the riding position I feel like it starts to curve upward about 2" too soon so instead of sitting on my butt I'm sitting way too far forward almost on my crotch. If I were to buy a seat off a later model with the pillow top does that have the same issue or does that actually allow you to sit back a little further and sit comfortably on your butt if not is there any seeds you guys would recommend where I could change out just the rider's seat without messing around with the passenger seat
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40 minutes ago, M61A1MECH said:
Actually there is a small white two pin connector on the left side down by the battery, it is a low amperage maybe 5 amps max, I am pretty sure it is switched with the ignition. When you find it you will see that what you have is a dummied off connector with a seal pug in where the wire with a seal goes, you could also access that. You could do as I proposed above and put a fuse in the circuit going to the USB charger to protect the tail light circuit, you do not want to lose that light because the USB port goes south.
Here is link to an old post about that connector near the battery maybe this will help. If you decide to go with the white 2-pin, I have the correct contacts and seals for that style connector.
I have to look at my bike later when I get home I think I know this connection you're talking about if it's the one I'm thinking of I was looking at it last night and wondering "what is this for" . Using what shouldn't be an issue as long as long as I use A charging hub that's under 5 amps. And put a fuse on it?
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On 10/3/2021 at 2:12 PM, Bubblezdamunky said:
You're absolutely right where are my manners I should have posted pictures yesterday. But I was so busy getting things squared away with getting an appointment at the DMV and shopping for insurance. Well that's what she looks like just ignore or the missing Leg faring panel on the right side that's sitting on the floor of my garage I have that off to get to the fuse Box cause I'm waiting for my cell phone mount/charger to arrive
On 9/6/2014 at 8:11 PM, Seaking said:I installed an Alpine KTP 445U 40W Amp under the radio frame. Easy enough to plug into the bike system etc. You get a bigger boost in sound to punch through the wind when traveling down the highway without distortion. I run my MP3s through my GPS which also speaks direction changes through the bike's audio system..
9 minutes ago, M61A1MECH said:I do not know if there are any ignition switched power sources with connectors close to the trunk. I do not have a Venture any more so I cannot investigate to find a suitable source of power. I make a breakout harness that plugs in under the seat to access the rear lighting circuits, the tail light circuit has constant power that is switched with the ignition. There are bullet connectors in the triable shaped housing behind the license plate you can access the tail light circuit and ground there, but I am not sure there is an elegant way to get wires from behind the license plate into the trunk. I suspect no matter where you pick power up you are going to need to pull the driver and passenger seat to do the install, so maybe using my under the seat break out could work, it is only a matter of a few feet of wire. I could make a special harness with extra long leads for the tail light and ground to get you back to the trunk area. I know here is room in the existing wire management clips and clamps to where you can lace two extra wires in from under the seat back to the trunk. Here is a link to my under the seat break out harness. Please note there may be a slight price increase as the post office has just raised their rates, I am researching now to determine the impact to my published prices.
Is there a way to access the power for the rear DC outlet the same as you would for the front. Is currently my idea is to use Is a piggyback fuse to add a secondary circuit in the fuse Box to the rear DC outlet circuit and then run the wire. The problem is I really don't want to have to worry about removing the gas tank. I don't care about moving the seats. But I can't think of a way that's not gonna look crappy to run a wire all the way from the right foot peg is foot peg Fierce Box all the way back into the trunk. As far as getting into the trunk that's not a problem my trunk has an LED Cyclops light and the wire for that already has a whole drilled into the bottom of the trunk I can use. It's just getting the wire back there without making it noticeable that's going to be the challenge.
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On 3/14/2021 at 2:23 PM, M61A1MECH said:
I make various jumpers for the Venture. I make a plug and play jumper break out that plugs in to the back side of the cigarette lighter that is in the lower portion of the fairing on the left side.
I can put wires on the bare pins in the photo and you can but splice or solder your adapter to those wires.
The jumper is $10.00 delivered to any where in the lower 48.
Is there a way to plug one of those jumpers. Is anywhere on the rear of the motorcycle. I just bought a Gen. To venture the other day And I would like to Put a usb charging hub in the trunk. But don't want to worry about running a wire all the way from the front
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5 hours ago, luvmy40 said:
Congratulations!
Compared to the Sportster, your RSV is going to feel a little sluggish off the line, but throttle response at highway speeds will surprise you. Keep in mind, you don't want to ride it like a Harley. Keep the RPMs up until you are at cruising speed. Then remember you will want to down shift for jack rabbit passing. It will lug out from low RPMs but she'll complain about it!
Oh yeah, DO NOT USE V-Twin oil in her! The wet clutch doesn't like friction modifiers. Some of the cool kids run Rotella maybe with some Lucas additive.
BTW,
5 hours ago, luvmy40 said:Congratulations!
Compared to the Sportster, your RSV is going to feel a little sluggish off the line, but throttle response at highway speeds will surprise you. Keep in mind, you don't want to ride it like a Harley. Keep the RPMs up until you are at cruising speed. Then remember you will want to down shift for jack rabbit passing. It will lug out from low RPMs but she'll complain about it!
Oh yeah, DO NOT USE V-Twin oil in her! The wet clutch doesn't like friction modifiers. Some of the cool kids run Rotella maybe with some Lucas additive.
BTW,
You're absolutely right where are my manners I should have posted pictures yesterday. But I was so busy getting things squared away with getting an appointment at the DMV and shopping for insurance. Well that's what she looks like just ignore or the missing Leg faring panel on the right side that's sitting on the floor of my garage I have that off to get to the fuse Box cause I'm waiting for my cell phone mount/charger to arrive
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You guys have given me so much great advice I would like to thank everyone here. So I went to go see the bike today the thing was in a maculate condition. The guy selling it to me basically said that he had bought it from an old family friend and he didn't say this much but I'm very much getting the vibe that the guy passed away. So he either bought or just took possession of it and and his plan was to spend last whip to fixing it up and then start writing it however he says personal life and taking care of his daughter Prevented him from doing so so he was just selling it to get what money he put into it back. He says that he basically flushed out all the fluids that were in it already because he can confirm the guy beforehand had it for several years and rode it all of 2 times. It runs very well starts right up with no problems though it was on the warmer side today at 70ﾟ. Shifts smooth though can be slightly tricky at times to find neutral. I stalled it out a couple times while trying to Go from a stop up hill. I don't think that was the bike at all I think that was me just needing to learn where this clutch grabs and get used to this particular motorcycle because I'm very much used to my sportster which is a completely different ride. With all of that considered I bought it I am now the proud owner of a 1999 Royal star venture I have an appointment Monday to to get it straight legal and then begins my new life with my new machine
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1 hour ago, BlueSky said:
The rear brakes on these bikes are overly strong. They don't need any beefing up if in good condition.
That's what I've heard that's why if anything I would just change out the lines put better pads on them And flush the fluid. The big break upgrade I'm talking about is the front end. Pretty much every review I've ever read said that the only 2 complaints about this bike are that it's top heavy and kind of hard to Handle at low speeds which I guess I have to get used to. And that the front brakes are really weak compared to the rear but a lot of people have said that putting that putting R1/R64 roadstar roadstar Silverado/Warrior orier calipers on the front as well as switching the master cylinder bring the front brakes up to where they should be
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4 hours ago, BratmanXj said:
Brakes Brakes Brakes.... Just like the tires, the rubber lines can dry-rot as well. There's reasonably prices braided stainless options available on this forum. At minimum, flush fluids and new pads.
The clutch diaphragm springs are notorious for getting weak. If you feel a slipping clutch at higher RPMs its mostly likely a bad spring and fairly easy to replace. With that low a mileage your friction plates are good and replacements springs range from $40 to $140 for the Barrnett pressure plate (that I believe is overkill).Clutch is hydraulic, check the slave cylinder for leaks. Left side between the clutch cover and the trans cover, you can see a rubber flap but behind the base of the rear cylinder in my attached photo. Again, not expensive but could be a potential shifting/slipping issue on a bit that's sat.
The engine cooling fins are "fake" bolt on items and there are rubber cooling plugs under them. If you see coolant sitting on base of the cylinders don't be to alarmed. The plugs are inexpensive and and a quick fix. You can see the little rubber & brass insert's at the base of the front & rear cylinders in my photo.
So it seems like what you and other people are saying is there's nothing I should be particularly looking for that's a major deal killer. Seems like all the things you guys are mentioning that go bad from it sitting are fairly Inexpensive things to worry about. As far as the brakes I'm probably going to need to redo them anyway he did say that the rear brakes feel a bit spongy to him which tells me it probably needs new rear lines and a fluid flush. I am also eventually planning on redoing the whole brake system in the front and doing what I've seen a lot of people on here do By putting roadstar Warrior breaks on the front with HH pads and stainless steel lines. As far as the fuel system he old system he said he recently replaced to the fuel filters. But it probably wouldn't hurt me to check the synchronization of the carbs. But it sounds like from everything I'm hearing as long as the bike runs well shifts well. There's no reason that I shouldn't go for it. Thank you guys for your advice
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Hi guys I'm a new member that just signed up. I don't know if I'm putting this thread in the right location but if I'm not admins please move it if not allowed.
I'm an intermediate level experienced writer with about 5 years of rider there's a ridong I've been riding a Harley sportster up until recently and I want to enter the touring bike community. I've been doing a lot of research a lot of it on this forum actually And I really like the sounds of the 99 to 13 venture. I am actually going to look at 1 on Saturday and my question is this. The one I'm looking at is a 1999 and it has 13000 miles. That tells me this bike has been doing a very good amount of sitting. When I go to look at this bike what are some of the things I should specifically be looking at. I'm sure I'm going to have to replace coolant hoses and flush out every fluid that in that bike over the Winter. But what other things get damaged on these bikes from sitting and not being run? Is that low of a mileage something to run away from or does it just mean a little more work I have to put in over the Winter?. I'm a mechanic by trade specifically for trains though I know maintenance terms and I do my own maintenance on my Harley early so I'm kind of sort of knowledgeable about most aspects of bike maintenance.. Thanks in advance for any answers
Knee wind blockers
in Watering Hole
Posted
Is sorry to hear about your garage man .Well I guess in the meantime does anyone on here have a set they are willing to sell 2nd hand.