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circa1968

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Posts posted by circa1968

  1. 27 minutes ago, uncledj said:

      I carry a spare pump as well, but haven't had any issues yet.   Without looking at it, are there any special tools needed for a roadside replacement?

    So, before my spring trip, I did a “practice” replacement to see what was needed.  Going from memory:

    5mm Allen to remove the side covers

    Phillips to remove the center cover

    12mm socket to remove the pump

    Plier/needle nose to loosen the hose clamps.  
     

    I will take a look @ the exploded view deg later, to make sure I’m not forgetting anything, but it is not complicated at all. 
     

    The worst part was dealing with the various wiring clamps/ties under the side cover.  That and that darn screw for the center cover which is always hard for me to get back into place. 

    • Like 2
    • Sad 1
  2. Glad you had a great trip and made it home safely.

    I was going over Rabbit Ear Pass on Sept 8th, having just come across hiway 14 from Fort Collins! Absolutely beautiful area. 

    I carried a spare fuel pump with me on my trip (5,500 miles over a month), along with the couple of tools necessary to change it out, if need be.  A lot of things could go wrong, but I figured if the fuel pump went out, its one problem I could easily fix anywhere, myself and it doesn't take up much storage space. 

    If the points go out, I'll swap in the spare, replace the points when I get home and then still have a spare to carry with me.  My spare is a very clean, used pump purchased off of ebay for $30.  The same pump was used on other Yamaha Star models, so not hard to find used on ebay.

    Hope you are back up and running soon!

    • Like 1
  3. 7 hours ago, saddlebum said:

    Was the bike in gear with the kickstand down or did you simply shut the bike off by putting the kickstand down while in gear and leave the key in the bike in the on position ( this one cost me few beers when I had to go back into the bar to get some able bodied chaps to push start me )

    Check battery voltage and then watch how much voltage drops when you try to start the bike. If it does not drop at all you have a wiring or switch issue maybe even a bad starter with an open internal circuit, .

    If it drops of severely you likely have a battery issue or possibly  a starter with seized bearings or internal short.

    If the relay does not make a click sound you may possibly have a bad starter relay starter relay or fault in the primary starter circuit. try jumping across the two big posts on the the starter relay.

    Here is a brief guideline I devised and give my apprentices to do quick check of the starting system before tearing things apart.

    Starter and electrical issue diagnosing.pdf 384.55 kB · 2 downloads

    What he said! 

    But I'm pretty sure the lights, etc would still work if the kickstand was down, while in gear.  Same as if the kill switch was open.  It just wouldn't turnover.

  4. 5 hours ago, HeavenlyHomesteadLA said:

    Looks like, according to that wiring diagram, in the top right corner, there is a Br/L wire that sends power to the fan, head, signal, and ignition fuses in fuse box #2. I'm thinking that's the wire I need to look for. But what does "Br/L" look like??

    According to Google, it could be Brown with a Blue tracer. Does that sound right?

    See the left side of the diagram for the color code/chart, but yes, Brown/Blue.  How certain are you that the battery is good?  I could be off base on this one but possible that it has enough juice for the stereo, but not for the rest of the stuff.  The odometer not working is odd as that is fused before the main switch.  That's what has me wondering about the battery.

  5. Couple of questions: 

    1) Does the odometer work when you turn the ignition to on?

    2) Do the blinkers and/or horn work?

    Here's a link to the electrical diagram:  https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

    Lot's of possibilities, but coming off the ignition switch, the stereo and aux power are on their own circuit, so sorta good news there in that hopefully not a bad main switch.  The odometer is fused directly off the main fuse and should be working.  The blinkers and horn, based on your symptoms are most likely not working.

    You may have a bad main switch or a problem with the wiring coming off of it, either @ a connector or broken wire itself.

  6. 2 hours ago, Pasta Burner said:

    Glad to see you back and report in on a successful trip.

    Thanks.  It was a great trip!  For my return route, I stayed off of interstates & rode 2-lane hiways for all but the last part to my house.  What a big beautiful country we live in!  So many awesome small towns and wonderful people you meet there.

    One of the highlights was the motorcycle museum in St. Francis, KS, a small town in the northwest corner of KS.  The quality and quantity of bikes in this collection blew my mind!  If you've never been and are within a reasonable ride to get there, its worth the effort!

    https://stfrancismotorcyclemuseum.org/

    • Like 3
  7. Yesterday was the end of my month-long, 5.5k mile test ride.....

    With some obvious subjectivity, the bike did not have the wind-induced death wobble issues as I previously experienced, or at least not nearly as bad.  However, in certain wind conditions, the bike was still tossed around quite a bit.  The worst case scenarios were with a strong cross-wind and trucks.

    The turbulence coming off a truck with little or no ambient wind was minimal and the bike was stable.  But, oh boy, hit a strong cross-wind and the truck turbulence threw me around like a rag doll, just like my previous experience, but without any significant front end wobble added to it after tightening up the head bearing a bit.

    I do have the wide F4 windshield, which is 4" wider, on each side, than stock, so 8" overall.  At this point, I'm thinking that is definitely a factor.   I will be looking for a stock windshield to see if that makes a difference. 

    I rode a pure stock '99 RSV from '99-'02, including one such trip as I just completed, and do not remember having these wind issues.  Of course, age-related memory issues could be part of that too.

    • Like 1
  8. Just as a quick follow-up on this, I decided not to pursue making these brackets out of an abundance of caution.  If you look underneath the RSV, there is an angled bracket welded to the frame.  This bracket is only there for mounting a fuel vapor canister that is installed on California bikes and not for carrying any sort of load.  When raising or lowering the bike on the center stand, this bracket would likely carry the weight of the bike.  Once up on the stand, the rest of the frame is carrying the load. 

    My concern would be that repeated stresses on that bracket and its minimal weld joints could cause it to fail at some point, partially dropping the stand.  I looked into making the adapter bracket as all one piece and finding alternate mounting points, but the engineering and fabrication costs are hard to justify.

    Alternately, I did contact Rivco and they said they would do a production run with an order for 50 units.  If there are at least 50 of us who want one of those, I'm happy to coordinate that effort instead.

  9. On 9/9/2021 at 12:35 PM, XV1100SE said:

    Just a comment on where to put things....

    I have a six gang fuse block mounted inside the passenger back rest.  If you remove it (only a couple bolts) you can affix things underneath it.  My six gang fuse block is used to power two Stebel horns, a USB charging port, and my trailer isolator.  Instead of trying to jam things into the battery area under the back rest is a great place to mount things.

    That's a great idea and I didn't even think to look in that area since I was tapping into the factory harness in the battery area already, it just seemed to make sense at the time to fit it all in there.  The module was small enough to easily fit and it was just a matter of dressing up the wire routing to not look like a bowl of spaghetti.

  10. On 9/8/2021 at 8:02 PM, InfinitySurf said:

    Thread revival here: I recently bought a 2012 RSVS - funny cause my wife also followed me home and told me I wasn't visible at all, big black bike with a large trunk and only the single stock brake light. I am looking to do exactly what you did (great looking job), been having trouble tracking down a new or used wing. If anyone can point me toward one, that would be great!

    I would like to light it up to be a lot more visible from the sides and the rear. Almost every close call I have had in the past 25yrs of riding has been related to cars moving into my space cause most people dont pay attention to their surroundings,  bright lights may help increase awareness. This is my 1st touring bike, love how smooth it handles. So far I have converted all the bulbs to LED. Previous owner had already done an aftermarket LED headlight and the 2 running lights. I have bought a variety of LED's that I am going to wire in when I can figure out a tasteful way to do it but plan to have lights on the back & sides of the saddle bags and the trunk. Hopefully I can also track down a wing and copy you.

    Great job on the wing install!

    Check with member Eusa1, he might have one for sale.  Also, a more expensive route, but there are a couple on Ebay - but you have to buy the whole trunk assembly.

    If you go the Ebay route, maybe we can find a member who can help either get the wing 3D scanned & 3D printed copies made, or perhaps a mold pulled off the part to cast new wings from.  IMHO, the wing really complements the looks and the extra LED lighting is a great safety feature.

    In any case, if you manage to track down a wing and I can be of any assistance in the modifications, don't hesitate to reach out to me.

     

    • Like 1
  11. 1 hour ago, Surfrider said:

    Does anyone know if the metal valves that come with the kit fit the Gen ll or should I be looking for different valve stems?  Hoping to get tires put on today but would hate to drive there and find out I need a different valve.

    Thanks all

    I put them on my 2nd gen RSV, using the stock rear valve stem, but I had them change the front to a right angle stem for convenience.  There were no valves that came with the kit, just the cap and a back locking nut.

  12. There are a ton of 1st gen center stands on ebay and pretty inexpensive.  Since Freebird published his design for the adapter bracket, if there are others interested in getting some made, I would be happy to lead the charge to get a bunch of them fabricated as I would like to add one to my 2nd gen also.

  13. My last sentence was incorrect, its in parallel to the brake switches, not inline (wasn't fully caffeinated when I looked @ the spaghetti diagram).

    Looks like you have two options. 

    Easy option is to isolate that entire circuit from the switch, which would then allow all functions (i.e. brake lights, blinkers, etc) on the circuit to work without the switch being in the on position.  Just rewire the power side of the signal fuse to the battery directly.

    2nd option, a bit more complex, would be to isolate the hazard/flasher relay power from the rest of the circuit and wire it straight to the battery via a fused line.

  14. Looking @ the electrical diagram, yes that is the way its wired, to only work with the key in on position.  The hazard switch appears to just provides the ground path for energizing the hazard relay.  

    Best case, you could simply hardwire the hazard & flasher relays directly to fused power, straight from the battery, rather than switched power.  But need to spend some time looking at the other circuitry involved & how that would impact other functions.  The hazard & flasher relays are on the same power circuit (switched/fused) as the brakes & turn signals, so would need to make sure those two relays can have their power isolated without messing up any other functions.  Power to the relays actually comes through the normally closed brake switches.

     

  15. I added motorkote in mine with the last 2-3 oil changes,  might be why the whine doesn't bother me, but I can't honestly say I had a good baseline to compare it to before I added it.  I might have just gotten lucky with a no-whine bike or an inner ear structure that's less sensitive to that freq.

  16. 52 minutes ago, Marcarl said:

    Looks like you may have it. Time to  test ride it. If you find it has a mind of it's own, back it off a bit.

    I take off this coming Friday for a 5k mile test ride!  Might have to squeeze a shorter one in before that.

  17. 50 minutes ago, RDawson said:

    If you dive in to replacement the job isn’t too bad, the lower race is the biggest pain. Some use a sharp punch and go at it, I reached in from the bottom and welded a piece of steel to the race and had a good surface to set a punch on. Instead of completely removing the inner fairing I just tied it up with a strap from the ceiling. 

    Hope I don't have to do that any time soon, but I did the strap from the garage ceiling thing when I lowered the front end, so sounds like its manageable.

  18. I have a set of nearly new, early 2000’s, Harley RK pipes that fit the Venture if anyone wants them.  Need clamps. 
     

    I tried them out, didn’t notice much difference, so removed the rear baffle plate. A little louder, but not much.  Someone here suggested also removing the front baffle, but I decided to just put the stock pipes back on.  
     

    I paid $50 for them & that’s all I will ask, plus shipping costs which would likely be another $35-50 within the US.  
     

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