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Posts posted by circa1968

  1. 3 hours ago, Woody said:

    I did this to an 06 and it is like adding power steering at slow speeds like in a parking lot, but be aware it is also easier to go full lock when turning sharp. If I had another 2nd gen I would do it again. 

    Agree.  I can also now walk my bike around in the garage like it weighs 100 lbs less.  With some practice, I was getting pretty good at low speed handling before lowering.  Some good videos out there on how to do that.

  2. 8 hours ago, CSaez said:


    I have the same problem. I can't stand flat footed on the bike when I stop because of the height of the bike. How can I lower the front end like you did? Any info you have or suggestions other than what you have posted already? 



    It's a fairly big job, to be sure.  I removed the tank to protect it.  You will have to remove windshield, split the front fairing, pull the inner fairing away, etc.  Search the site, there are some instructions on how to do it. 

    • Like 1
  3. Lowering the front end by raising forks in triple tree will also help.  I just recently did mine, lowered by 1/2", others have done more but I'm happy w/ the results and can sit flat footed at a stop light now.  I would not have believed that lowering by 1/2" would make such a difference on the top heavy feel, but it does.  I didn't expect that, was mainly going for being flat footed at stop.

  4. 4 hours ago, MonsterBiker said:

    The SuperBright LEDs bulb works quite well with the Kisan P115W modulator.  I know because I have them both installed on my RSV.  It even makes reflective road signs pulse in broad daylight.  I do find it funny how many people think I don't know my headlight is pulsing and feel the need to point it out to me.  😆

    This is the one I have been running in my bike for the last year with no problems:  P115W

    where did you install the sensor?

  5. So y'all got me doing more research on progressive vs linear rate springs and now I'm just more confused than ever.   But, my layman's take on it is that linear springs are best for racing so that you have a consistent feel through the fork compression, making it more predictable.  I see that being of value in running this beast through twisties.  On the other hand, progressive will give a more comfortable ride soaking up smaller bumps on the road and give more resistance to bottoming on a hard hit.

    Why did you chose progressive springs over linear?  Do you still get front end dive on hard braking, or at least less dive than stock?  That's my main goal. 

    If I can get other benefits of better twisties handling, that's great but not my main goal as that would just make me want to go faster and do something stupider.

  6. 3 hours ago, saddlebum said:

    the thermo switch should be threaded into the thermostat housing. If the fuse is ok try the following. if a single wire goes to the thermo switch disconnect it and with the key on ground the wire if the fan is ok it should run. If it is a double wire disconnect it and jump the 2 wires together the fan should run. If it does you likely need a new thermal switch or in the case of the 2 wire set up a noise filter. if you can get to the 2 wire connector for the fan you can put 12volts directly to the fan to see if the fan itself works or not.  if it does not and you can find no fault in the wiring going to the fan then you likely need a new fan.

    On my bike I installed a fan override switch so I could manually turn the fan on early if I want to or as a backup if the thermo switch should ever fail.

    I like that override switch idea!  Seems like it takes forever for the fan to come on. 

    On 2nd gen bikes, there are two thermo switches.  The 1st switch is in the radiator, to turn on the fan.  The one you mentioned in the thermostat housing completes a ground path to turn on the indicator light and also goes to the starting circuit cutoff relay.  I'm assuming they did it this way for the sake of having two different temperature thresholds, one to turn on the fan and one for when shit hits the fan.

    https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

    Fan circuit is in lower right of diagram, the indicator thermoswitch is near lower left.

  7. I'm pretty sure you'll need to pull the radiator to get to the fan and possibly the thermo switch.  Before going through all that, 1st step is check the fan motor fuse (Located behind left side cover, fuse #2).  Next, remove the lower cowlings and trace the fan wire to the connector on the lower left (shifter) side of the bike. You are looking for a two-wire connector (Blue & Black).  I used my battery tender and crudely rigged a couple pieces of wire to feed 12v to the fan to make sure it will run when given power (blue = +, black = -)

    If both of those are good, there's also a noise filter between the thermoswitch and the fan.  I'm not 100% certain where that is, but probably down in the same area.  Test to make sure that its good.

    Once you find the filter, check to make sure you have continuity to chassis ground from the neg terminal, on the fan side.

    If all are good, thermo switch is next.  Its at the top of the radiator, so you might be able to perform some wrenching gymnastics to remove it with the rad in place.

    Good luck and let us know how you progress.





    • Like 1
  8. 12 hours ago, luvmy40 said:

    It's about freaking time!


    How many appeals before it gets to the SCOTUS?

    1-3.   The state could try an emergency appeal to SCOTUS or go to the 9th circuit, where it would go before a 3-judge panel 1st and then possibly appealed to the en banc 11-judge panel before going to SCOTUS.  The latter route could take years to reach a SCOTUS appeal hearing

  9. Oh, also check your brake light itself to make sure it is working properly, the fault could also be on the other side of that relay.  The relay contact is fed power via the brown wire (straight from the fuse) and once the relay is energized, or closed, the yellow wire receives power and sends it to the brake light.  A ground fault anywhere along those two paths seems like it would cause your symptoms.

  10. In looking at the wiring schematic, the following are on the load side of your turn signal fuse:  Horns, flasher relay, hazard relay, most of your dash indicators and the Brake Light Relay.  The neutral switch is on the carb heater fuse, so this could be a red herring.

    Based on your symptoms, I suspect the Brake light relay likely has a fault in it causing at least a partial short to ground when applying the brake (while in traffic).  If the fuse blows when in traffic or neutral, you are also likely braking.  A ground fault in the relay when braking would effectively rob voltage from the rest of the signal circuit and this would explain the neutral light dimming.  Its probably not a hard short to ground but enough to cause the light dimming and then eventually a blown fuse.

    This is definitely not the only possibility, but a good candidate based on symptoms and what is on that fuse circuit. 

  11. This is going to be the next upgrade to my Venture as the front really dives when braking hard.  I've been reading through various postings & trying to get my head all the way around the project to make sure I'm comfortable doing this on my own.  I'm feeling confident (dangerous) enough at this point, but two things I can't quite get a good understanding of and wondering if anyone could shed some light:

    1)  How much oil to put in after draining out the old oil?  Do I follow spec of 553cc or am I supposed to measure it from the top? 

    2) Preload spacers.  I've read that Sonic will ship some pvc pipe for this and to cut it to length.  I can't find any specific directions on Sonic's website on what length they should be cut to.

    Any advice?


  12. On 5/31/2021 at 3:33 PM, Squidley said:

    If memory serves me correct, a 7/8" holesaw on a 18" 1/4" drill bit. There's 2 baffle plates in the HD mufflers. Drill the back one out 1st and see how you like the sound. If you want it a bit louder, drill the front one out.

    I used 1 1/8" hole saw, it was a perfect fit, for drilling out the rear baffle plate.  Definitely gives it more rumble.  Will leave them on for a while and see how I like it.  Thanks for the suggestion

    • Like 1
  13. Just a SWAG here, but when was the last time you had the tank off and pulled/cleaned the airboxes?  At 98k miles, perhaps the oil droplets pulled up via PCV have built up over time and were trapped in the bottom of the box due to a plugged drain line and something just caused the line to clear enough for the accumulated oil to drain out.

    Here's what I would do, and perhaps its wishful thinking for a simple fix/solution but that's usually where I start and sometimes get lucky enough to end there: 

    Pull the tank & airbox, clean all the oil out of the airbox and blow out the drain line to make sure it is clear (perhaps even pull the line and flush/clean it really good.)  Put it all back together and at least now you have a baseline of knowing everything is clean & clear.  There are two lines, but it seems that the one on the left/shifter side of the bike collects the most oil as it is the low side when parked.


  14. 40 minutes ago, Pasta Burner said:

    Ugh those “racers” shutting down roads and backing up traffic.  Riding 3-4 abreast on two lane blacktop while “practicing” or “training”.  “Share the road” they say but you don’t see them sharing the cost, no insurance, no registration.  Go rent a track like any other “racer”.  When is the last time in the US where public streets are shut down for a motor sports race?  But for pedal bikers it’s a right of some sort.  I know I offended somebody so sorry in advance 🚴

    Not offended, but please don't judge all riders by the actions of a few.  You are correct that under normal circumstances, cyclists should not be riding 3-4 abreast.  Its common sense, common courtesy and unsafe.

    I ride a road bike on 2-lane blacktops with my buddies and we ride single file, as close to the edge as possible.  The single most terrifying thing is someone in a car hellbent on being a jerk coming up from behind at 60+ MPH.  Cycling out in the country on two lane roads is a very healthy and enjoyable activity. 

    I can't speak to shutting down roads for races, as I'm not a racer, but I assume the race sponsors must pay a pretty penny to the local municipalities for that, or perhaps they are counting on some other financial benefit to the local economy & coffers from hosting a race (short-term increase in hotel taxes, sales taxes, busier restaurants, promoting tourism, etc.).

    I'm pretty sure there is no general tax exemption for cyclists....I know I've paid more than my fair share.   However, I'm quite sure there are a large # of car drivers on the road who pay little, to no, taxes though...

    I will leave you with this thought to contemplate next time you encounter a cyclist on the road:  My heart is pounding at 150+bpm, my legs are screaming, my lungs are burning and its all worth it to me if it keeps me healthy enough to live just one more day with my family on God's beautiful green earth... please pass with care.  Thank you.


    • Like 1
  15. 2 hours ago, cowpuc said:

    Running them that way gives them about a 2 inch ride patch and far less resistance when rolling.

    Yep, all about trade offs.  Higher pressure will allow you to go faster/further with the same pedaling effort (or battery power).  The downsides are easier flats and a harsher ride, which may cause more overall fatigue for the rider.  I always lean towards lowest psi possible on my bicycles for the fatigue issue.   If not running out of battery (electric or human) on your rides and now worried about breaking any land speed records, you may have fewer flats.

    There are some hard-core cyclist, physics types (geeks) out there doing studies on contact patch, size, shape, orientation etc all evolving around tire pressure and tire width and how it impacts performance.  All of it totally irrelevant to 99.9% of cyclists but still fascinating.  For racers, getting a 1% boost in performance can be the difference between 1st & 2nd place, so I get the desire to drill down to the minutest detail on this stuff. 

    For the rest of us, ehh, just go ride, have fun and be prepared to fix a flat now and then! 😉





  16. Nothing like an untimely flat to ruin a great ride.  On my skinny tire road bike, I picked up a paper staple once that flatted me.  It doesn't take much.

    Are those tires/wheels by any chance tubeless compatible?   With those large tires, a tubeless setup will actually reduce your likely hood of a flat - ironically.   I run a tubeless setup on my mtn bike and love it. 

    Also, just curious what pressure are you running those tires at.  Tire pressure on a bicycle is different that what we know in cars/motorcycles.  I run ~20psi on my mtn bike as it makes the tire more compliant and they act as mini shock absorbers when running over rocks, etc.  This makes them less prone to punctures. 



    • Like 1
  17. 7 hours ago, Squidley said:

    Drill the baffles out and they will sound much better without being obnoxious. I've had a set on my RSV for about 4 years now.

    Thanks.  Yeah, I suppose worth a shot as long as I'm at it.  What is the best technique for drilling out the baffles?

  18. Today I put on a set of new take-off Harley touring exhaust pipes (from 2003) I found on craigslist for $50.  Meh....A little throatier sound, but not convinced for me.  Figured worth a try for $50 and I will get out for a longer ride with them to see, but if anyone is looking for a nice set, it won't be hard to talk me out of them.

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