AKRefugee
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Posts posted by AKRefugee
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I'm with FlyinFool on this one. The joys of living in the desert.
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Earl has helped many of us here. If any one who has benefited from the use of his kit would send a shim or pitch a few bucks for the purchase of a new shim it would be a great way to "pay it backwards". This is the time of year where many of us are doing winter maintenance during down season. Doing this will make the shim kit available quickly and better than ever. I know that I have used the kit and the convenience of not having to go hunt down shims was priceless beyond measure. PayPal sent.
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Just say NO to negativity
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Whew, thought I was actually going to have to be productive today. Glad it's back up.
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"It's a full time job just keeping TATERS in line."
I think TATERS is the one that has a full time job keeping you in line
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Hey Don. Living out in Las Vegas now. Just starting riding season here as it finally cooled down some. Still running the 06. Did a bit of work on Charlie this summer to get it ready. New shoes (Venoms - love them), new clutch plates/spring, new battery (due to heat out here they only last 2 or so years), new brake pads, SS brake lines finally installed. Miss making MX Days might try to make it next year. Enjoy your winter. If you ever make it out this way you and Eileen will always have a spare room with us.
Kevin McKinley (AKRefugee)
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I removed mine, ran a 3mm male male line throught the back to the aux plug under the cowling. I have a phone holder on my bars so I can use my phone for nav. just plug the line into the phone and now I have both my music and my nav over the speakers. If you are slow and careful when you take the unit out the door will still work.
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You can get H4 LED Bulbs that work great in place of the stock bulbs. All you have to do is take the rubber boot off at the back of the stock bulb. Went this route over a year ago and have had zero problems with it.
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The "safe speed" is what is "safe" to you. I will tell you that this bike is quite stable at 116 mph on the GPS (I ummmm Googled that, yeah that's it I Googled it)
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Is there any adverse effect on removing the "stop" from the rear trunk? i.e. plastic cracking at the hinge. I put my work bag in the trunk and it does not lift far enough up for me to not wedge my bag into it. Thanks
Stat
If you are talking about the arm then no there is no problem with having it removed. I haven't had one on for several years now.
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Thanks Bob, exactly the information I was looking for. Understanding is always better than just "knowing".
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One of your stator windings has a couple of shorted windings, replace it!! That is why you have unequal voltages.
Also, take your battery to Auto Zone and have it load tested, at this point, it may be stressed...
Thanks Bob,
Looks like a clean system sweep is what it is going to end up being. Sigh. Guess I can't really complain after 112,000 miles.
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Dan, so saddened to hear of you and The Wardens loss. I pray that your family's hearts are held in the gently hands comforting hands of Jesus in your time of sorrow. Love you my brother.
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Hello again all,
I reran all my test today with a cheepo tach. Not the best but at least provides some consistency. The results on the stator made me go huh so I ran them three times and same results all three times. The Scenario is a repeat but the results are updated and expanded. I can do the fix, whatever it may be, but don't want to just start throwing parts at it to find out I am going in the wrong direction, or worse break the new parts. I really need some help interpreting the results here.
Scenario:Went to start bike, Turns over but not enough to start. Put on charger. Next day started right up.Went for ride. Approximately 10 minutes later started doing funky stuff, Radio cut on and off then entire audio shut itself off. Speedometer started jumping up and down weirding out. Blinkers not working. Turn back immediately got almost home got out of throttle bike died. Turned corner dumped clutch bike fired back up but really rough. Cranked throttle rpms way up smoothed out. Got home two blocks away. Of throttle to turn into drive died again. dumped clutch again few seconds rough running then total stop. Put back on charger next day started fine. Didn't ride, didn't want to risk it. Decided to troubleshoot thinking possible Battery. Rectifier or Stator.Bike Electrical Status - No changes within a long time. Nothing added, nothing removed.Troubleshooting Results:Battery - 12 hour trickle 2A chargeAfter Charge - 12.46 VDCAt Idle - 11.85 VDCAt 2K RPM - 11.80 VDCAt 4K RPM - 11.80 VDCAfter 5 Hours - 12.05 VDCThe after 5 hours test was done after the Stator test with the Rectifier unhookedRectifier -Red Lead to Battery + Post / Black Lead to each Stator Post1 - OL2 - OL3 - OLBlack Lead to Battery + Post / Red Lead to each Stator Post1 - 0.4772 - 0.4743 - 0.466Red Lead to Battery - Post / Black Lead to each Stator Post1 - 0.4712 - 0.4773 - 0.478Black Lead to Battery - Post / Red Lead to each Stator Post1 - OL2 - OL3 - OLSTATOR RESULTS:Engine OffOHMS Black Lead to Ground Wire / Red Lead to each Stator Wire1 - OL2 - OL3 - OLOHMS Stator Wire to Stator Wire @ 85F1 to 2 - 0.61 to 3 - 0.62 to 3 - 0.6Volts AC at Idle1 to 2 - 25.51 to 3 - 27.02 to 3 - 26.5Volts AC at 2000 rpm (with RPM meter)1 to 2 - 751 to 3 - 1022 to 3 - 79Volts AC at 4000 rpm (with RPM meter)1 to 2 - 1151 to 3 - 1502 to 3 - 112Any ideas, thoughts or suggestions would be most welcomed. I will post this on the Forum as well but trust you know what you are doing and really hope you can give me some guidance here.Thanks for any help here. -
No biggie either way, do the resting battery test then start the bike and do the voltage while running tests. or do the running tests then the resting battery test later.
The charging diagram, really no way to "jumper" the regulator to force full charging.
Thanks. Hopefully I can get a shot at it tomorrow.
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OK, the batter is a 12VDC source.
If you take a voltage reading at the battery terminals with the engine running, anything over 12VDC is output from the regulator/rectifier. You want to see 14VDC or something close to it. Ideally, 14VDC at any RPM but realistically, bikes need to be at 2000RPM +/- to see good charging voltage.
Thanks
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Maybe I just missed it, but what is the DC output from the regulator at 2000rpm?
Not quite sure how to check that one.
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Ummm, your ignition switch is about to **** the bed??
Take your battery to Auto Zone and have it load tested for free...
Hey Bob. Already did that. Checked good
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Great thorough set of tests.
What I don't see,
battery voltage after it's been shore charged,
battery voltage 5 hours later,
voltage at battery terminals;
at idle
at 2K rpm
at 3K rpm
check those voltages again with neg lead on a frame ground point. report.
Will go look at the diagrams but if your tests indicate the battery and grounds are good and it's not charging, then there is a way to bypass the regulator function and make the stator put out full output, this should only be done for a minute or so and avoid revving motor to produce more than 15 volts. This would pretty much lay it at the door of a defective regulator.
Should I run the voltage at battery terminals checks at idle, 2K and 3K before or after the five hour sit?
Thanks
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And the Warden tried to claim I'm Useless!!
And after all this time you argue with her.
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Hey All,
Scenario:
Went to start bike, Turns over but not enough to start. Put on charger. Next day started right up.
Went for ride. Approximately 10 minutes later started doing funky stuff, Radio cut on and off then entire audio shut itself off. Speedometer started jumping up and down weirding out. Blinkers not working. Turn back immediately got almost home got out of throttle bike died. Turned corner dumped clutch bike fired back up but really rough. Cranked throttle rpms way up smoothed out. Got home two blocks away. Of throttle to turn into drive died again. dumped clutch again few seconds rough running then total stop. Put back on charger next day started fine. Didn't ride, didn't want to risk it. Decided to troubleshoot thinking possible Battery. Rectifier or Stator.
Bike Electrical Status - No changes within a long time. Nothing added, nothing removed.
Troubleshooting Results:
Battery - 12 hour trickle 2A charge Checked fine Load tested okay
Rectifier -
Red Lead to Battery + Post / Black Lead to each Stator Post
1 - OL
2 - OL
3 - OL
Black Lead to Battery + Post / Red Lead to each Stator Post
1 - 0.477
2 - 0.474
3 - 0.466
Red Lead to Battery - Post / Black Lead to each Stator Post
1 - 0.471
2 - 0.477
3 - 0.478
Black Lead to Battery - Post / Red Lead to each Stator Post
1 - OL
2 - OL
3 - OL
STATOR RESULTS:
Engine Off
OHMS Black Lead to Ground Wire / Red Lead to each Stator Wire
1 - OL
2 - OL
3 - OL
OHMS Stator Wire to Stator Wire @ 85F
1 to 2 - 0.5
1 to 3 - 0.5
2 to 3 - 0.6
Volts AC at Idle
1 to 2 - 24
1 to 3 - 24
2 to 3 - 24
Volts AC at approx 2000 rpm (no RPM meter)
1 to 2 - 48
1 to 3 - 65
2 to 3 - 57
Volts AC at approx 3500 to 4000 rpm (no RPM meter)
1 to 2 - 65
1 to 3 - 85
2 to 3 - 75
Seems to me the Battery is good and the Rectifier is good but not sure on the Stator.
Any thoughts would be most welcomed. If you think it is one particular thing por reason please let me know so all of us can learn not only the what but the why as well.
Thanks all.
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Not me,,, I been out playing with the new grandson for a whole week - what a hoot!!! Got new tires waiting for me mount and high hopes of hitting the road in a westerly direction - LOOK OUT WORLD = Tip, Tweeksis and Puc comin outa chute nine!!!
Hey DanL' - Kevin's probably doin some CTFW of his own,, probably cant hear ya over his pipes,,, try this = WASSUP AKRefugee
Hey Puc. Don't I wish. Charlie is down right now with a wee bit of an electrical problem. Hoping to get a chance to troubleshot this weekend and figure what parts I have to order and all. Gotta feeling it might be a stator. Not that hard to do, just a PITA and a time eater. Don't be forgettin to tip that hat at the ride when your get done comin out of that chute.
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Blacktop to the Garage today!!!
Yeah, Yeah. You know the rules. It didn't happen iffen there ain't no pictures
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Would not be able to use the CB Radio because the wire is a 7 pin whereas the Venture is a 5 pin.
Two Modular Helmets with Comms
in Riding Gear - Helmets, Jackets, Etc.
Posted · Edited by AKRefugee
CORRECTION TO PRICE
Two HJC RPHA 90 Tunisk Black/Red Modular Helmets with Scala Rider Freedom2 communications with boom mics.
Size Medium used at most 5 times comes with smoke shield installed and original clear shield. Has pink dragon sticker. No scratches or marks.
Size Large used at most 10 times never worn without helmet liner used. Comes with original clear shield. No scratches or marks
Both come with Scala Rider Freedom2 communications with boom misc installed
Asking $250 plus shipping from Las Vegas. (FAT FINGERED THE PRICE EARLIER)