Leland

If you are staying in the same area, I'll bet a lot of your current customers follow you.

I've put just a hair over a thousand miles on it now. I have to say that I'm amazed at how smooth that little engine is even at 80 MPH. The mirrors are crystal clear. Plus, with its 59" wheelbase it is very stable. At 5'8", while I do get more wind noise than with the large windshield on my old RSTD, I do not get any buffeting. As long as I wear earplugs, I'm good. Online reviewers also complain about the rear shocks. While of course the bike is built to a budget, I've found that for my 170# carcass (plus gear), setting the shocks at position 3 of 4 allows for a firm but acceptable ride. I think too many try for a softer ride at the expense of bottoming out. As of now, I have no buyers remorse. I also added a pair of Shad SH-23 saddlebags which are reasonably priced.

Like others here, due to age and health, I decided to downsize from my 2006 Royal Star Tour Deluxe to a Royal Enfield Super Meteor 650. Loosing over 300# is welcomed but I'm not thrilled about loosing the drive shaft for a chain. While this new bike is only rated for 47HP, many reviewers say that it has no problem cruising at 75mph. And smoothly too. Being an air/oil cooled parallel twin with screw and locknut valve adjusters, maintenance should be a breeze. Time will tell. It does come with a three-year, unlimited mile warranty. Still being winter here in the Denver area, I haven't ridden it much, but the few miles I have, have been enjoyable.

FYI, Freedom windshield is owned by a former employee of Clearview. When Clearview moved to Ft Collins, CO, from the Bailey-Pine area Freedom stayed in the area.

When mine failed back in '17, the points looked almost brand new.

I got rid of the OEM fuel pump back in '17 and haven't looked back. This little electronic Facet fuel pump as proven to be very dependable. The following is from the original thread back in 2017. If you search the forum there are quite a few posts about this pump. Replaced the stock pump with the Facet 40178. I drilled and tapped an 8-32 screw to mount, isolated with rubber on back. Screw is located behind the flare nut. As an FYI, NAPA carries this pump under their part number BK 610-2403. Took it for a 50 mile test Saturday and bike ran fine. On my arrival home, I immediately pulled the side cover and the pump was cool to the touch. On a side note, I have a Koso digital volt meter. With the Garmin 550 and XM radio on, I always ran a consistent 13.9 VDC. With the new fuel pump, I am at a consistent 14.0 VDC.

30 to 36 mpg is the best I've gotten from day one.

Do you have the passenger backrest? Then maybe you could use one of these, http://www.motorcyclereararmrest.com/ . I put one on my 06 Tour Deluxe. Works well and is very easy to install.

I debated between the Backflip MX4 and the Leer HF650M quad fold. The only reason I decided on the Leer is that it has a "pinch type" latching system for the panels instead of the pull cable used by everyone else. With the cable type, I can see where someone could take a hook inserted above the tailgate and grab it to release. Probably not really a concern because I'm sure that a pry bar inserted in the middle of the tailgate would pop open any of them in a matter of seconds. But overall, I do like it just fine. I did have to shim the mounting rails at the tailgate end slightly to get good latch engagement.

I installed this 2 gallon gas tank under the trailer years ago. Never have needed it, but it is comforting knowing that it's there. Where it's located between the wheels doesn't upset the tongue weight at all and it is mostly out of sight. Not the most convenient location but it sure beats walking.

61.9% of your fellow citizens (I use the term lightly) voted to retain your governor last year.

From Costco?

That looks like a very nice drawing, but it doesn't show the optional legs which I find very handy.

Diamond R Accessories used to, but no more.

I know that you are in the majority with your statement, but that is typically not my experience. My fronts are usually just as worn as my rears. I only got 10K out of one set of E3's but Gawd were they noisy. I also never achieve the gas mileage that others get. I'm doing good if I can get 35 mpg. But, I always consider myself fortunate because I don't have the whine.

After Mr. Squid's Shinko experience, I decided to check mine. I have the Shinko 777HD, 130/90B-16 Front and 150/90B-15 Rear. The front tire is rated for a maximum air pressure of 49#. I started out running about 45#, but found it squirrely at highway speeds. Kept reducing the pressure and finally decided that the Yamaha factory spec of 36# did produce the best results. However, I have already decided to go back to the stock 150/80-16 size, as others have stated more stable operation at speed. I only have 4,655 miles on these tires. No trip over 200 miles, never pulled the trailer with these, only one-up and the majority of my riding is in the mountain twisties - not interstate droning. The front tire has a good 3/32nd of tread left. BUT! The rear tire is down to the wear bars. Worst life of any tire that I have ever run. They are rated at max pressure of 42#, I have been running 40#. I had previously gotten about 8K max out of the stock Bridgestone, Dunlop E3s and Michelin II (130 front in the II). These Shinko's are also the first time that my front tire isn't at least as worn down as the rear. Given my rear tire experience, the handling of the 130 front tire and Squidley's stock front size experience, No more Stinkos for me.

What disturbs me the most with all of this is that the medical profession rarely offered any therapeutics to afflicted people. Go home and suffer and if you get to the point you can't breath, we'll put you on a ventilator. There are therapeutics but they typically were not offered. We've all heard of them and how they were vilified. As always, follow the money.

Is this the 130 or 150 front tire?

And of course we are all supposed to trust the VAERS database...

Good point. Not only was the initial pressure taken without weight on the seat, but I have a Diamond R centerstand so no weight at all on the shock. Just went out to the garage and rolled the bike off of the centerstand. Went from a starting pressure of 27# to 35#. Information that I never would have realized without the FOBO. I realize that the true test is how it rides, but with me always checking on the centerstand, I was getting "fake news". Thank you for your observations.

Did another ride with the phone mounted on the handlebars and the FOBO app open. Had reset the rear shock to 26# cold. After just a few miles, the rear shock pressure started to rise. It settled out at 36# to 37#. Would occasionally hit the low forties.

Just installed these FOBOs. For an extra $48, I ordered the trike set (3 sensors). The app allows you to rename the third sensor Air Shock. I got the normal tire pressure increase, but also found that the rear shock increased 6# (37#>43#) after about a 45 minute ride on two lane twisties. Not particularly hot; 65° in the mountains, 75° in Denver. Knowing this, I may lower its' initial pressure. Always knew about tire pressure increase with temperature, but never considered the rear shock before. I assume the engine heat also affects the shock.

I used this brake light modulator BackOFF™ XP Brake Light Module - Signal Dynamics . It allows the option of adding a fused switch which I wired directly to the battery. Mounted the switch under the seat, which I can reach while riding if necessary. Since the switch is wired directly to the battery, it allows operation even with the bike off. Granted, it doesn't do any good in the front, but better than nothing. Thankfully, I've never had to use it.

I bought one last month when they went on sale with $100 off to replace my Zumo 550 that I'd had since '07 that died last year. It is a very nice unit. I like that I can see my notifications on the screen. Kind of miss the Sirius XM that the 550 had. I mounted it like I had the old 550 mounted. Using the Powerlet allows the whole unit to be easily removed from the Ram ball joint. I never did like the idea of leaving the mounting base attached at all times. Would have preferred to cut down the low voltage wire but having it bundled is mostly out of sight. I mounted the transformer (rectangular box) between the the two flat surfaces to keep it out of the way. Using nylon insert locknuts maintains rigidity of the the base without putting undue stress on the transformer. According to LD rider Greg Rice, the transformer is not waterproof so I put a bead of silicone on it. Overall, I am happy with it.