brake pedal wont come back up!

i just had the rear caliper rebuilt by earl. bled the front and rear calipers with speed bleeders. the pedal wont come back up all the way. it keeps the brake light engaged. i checked the brake switch spring and its it good condition. it just seems to have resistance to return all the way. any ideas? proportioning valve bad? time for new lines and de-link? and im in northern michigan now. just got Hughesnet installed yesterday. water lines were busted and critters got into cabin, thats why i havnt been around last couple weeks.

Does there feel like there is any binding in the linkage where it passes through the frame?

One possible way to tell is to remove the 2 screws that hold the rear master to the frame, this will eliminate binding inside master cylinder as cause. With master loose, see if pedal travel is still tight. If it is, you will need to get that pivot point through frame cleaned up.

Gary

My first instinct is the proportioning valve! You can try removing the guts and use it without the innards as some have done and see if that fixes things...

...or, also what Gary just suggested...

Second thought, is the rear caliper hanging up???

it does feel like it is held up at the pivot area. the plunger in the valve moves freely with help. i dont know about removing the guts of the valve. anyone else do this with good results? how do i remove and clean the pivot point. i see there is a circular spring in there...how big of a pain is it?

Do you mean the Pedal is binding mechanically ??

Or do you mean the rear brake is Locking up" .

Have you Left the Fluid Level about 1/2 inch below the filler port to allow for

Heat Expansion, of the brake fluid "

IF--- You completly Fill the Rear Resovoiour, with fluid, Heat from the rear exhaust pipe , will expand the fluid , and the rear brakes will lock up !!

its the pedal. rear caliper is operating properly.

its the pedal. rear caliper is operating properly.

Remove the screw securing pedal linkage to pivot rod, pedal linkage will slide off. Would be a good idea to use a center punch to mark where slot is in relation to rod 1st.

Need to unhook brake switch, there is a spring on rear side that engages switch.

Unbolt master from frame so plunger can clear master.

With pedal linkage off the arm can be slid towards center of frame to remove. Spring will need to be flexed around frame to get it off.

Gary

Well, maby the Linkage itself is binding. Was it working OK before you remove the cylinder for overhaul ?

Is the Return Spring Installed ???

Try some " Never Seize " on the two Shafts.

Pedal, and the Shaft that goes thru the Frame.

Make sure not binding on the two shafts.

Go to the IPC, Web Site, " Yamaha Motorcycles " google search.

Pull up parts , IPC, go to the section, " Stand - Footrest "

See: Item # 51 " Spring Torsion " ( not available )

Is it installed on your bike ???

If not, did you loose it ??? upon dissassembly ??

It might be laying on your garage floor someplace. Probably rolled under the water

heater !!! :detective:

I just went threw the same thing on mine I had to keep bleeding it untill I could feel the brake was working. and then I had to readjust the free play.

its the pedal. rear caliper is operating properly.

Mine got to doing that, so I fixed it. It has stayed fixed.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/Ozlander/P4150365.jpg

i took the linkage off and the pedal moved freely. so, i removed the rear master to clean it. then, i opened the rear speedbleeder and pump out all the fluid. now the pedal comes back up normally, and quite quickly. so, earl thinks its the proportioning valve also. air getting trapped keeping it slightly engaged. time for the delink before i smoke the rotor.

before i smoke the rotor.

Would you roll that or use a pipe ????

Gary

neither. if it was a buckeye, i would just simply squish it....