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Disconnecting anti-dive


5bikes

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MK1's. '84 Venture Std. Has anyone removed the brake lines to the anti-dive units? I did this on a '82 Suzuki GS1100 and the braking improved drastically. Right now braking is really vague until much pressure is applied.

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You might be opening a can of worms if you disconnect them. What type of pads are you running? I would suggest a different set of pads to begin with. I always use the EBC HH pads on all my bikes. The 1st gens, especially the 1200 cc ones had lousy brake systems. I would bleed the entire brake sysytem if you haven't done it yet and go to a different pad if you are still on organics....0.98 less than a buck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, I did it 50,000 miles ago. I also added braided brake lines. With these two changes, the brake pedal and lever are like a rock! I've also got Progressive Fork springs, and I'd suggest you have them also if you want to eliminate the anti-dive. BTW, my bike is an '83 and the brake feel improvement is worth getting rid of the anti-dive.

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Bought the Ebay $44 (including shipping) brake pads, reading the descriptions of all for sale. These are semi-hard but not the "HH" hard. Eliminated the stock pads that had gotten brake fluid on them.

Then set the anti-dives on the hardest (#4) setting.

Braking is much improved at both levers but nowhere as good as more current bikes.

I may still eliminate the anti-dives because it they were never really effective.

Thanks all for your help.

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  • 1 year later...

I have never liked the feel of the hydraulic anti-dive actuator. I hesitated to remove the link hose between the caliper and the actuator until I came up with a better solution. If you just remove the hose you are left with the stock soft compression damping and will likely bottom out during hard braking. After a little thought and some available time I dove in and removed the hose and fabricated a manual adjuster for the anti-dive valve.

 

The adjuster pushes down on the anti-dive spool and restricts the fork oil flow during fork compression. Being adjustable, you can set the amount of increased compression damping on the front forks, just like on the rear shock. It only took me a couple of hours to make it up from scrap steel and can be easily improved (visually) with alittle effort. I used some 1/2 inch steel flat stock and some 6mm bolts.

 

The ride is very smooth and doesn't bottom out when stopping. I just ran the adjuster to the bottom (lightly closed position) and backed it off a turn and a half. More riding will tell if this is the right setting. Nice thing about this modification is it's easily reversed if desired. The front brake is more positive but the rear brake with it's linked calipers is about the same feel.

 

The real payoff is the increased front compression damping at all times when riding through the hills around my house.

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5Bikes,

 

I put progressive springs in a couple of years ago and saw a big improvement in the suspension travel and less dive while braking hard. Then last year when replacing my brake pads disconnected the antidives to see if the braking would improve. I haven't noticed any difference in the dive and only a slight improvement in the braking but decided to leave them disconnected. I purchased a couple of metric bolts about 1/2" long and put them where the banjo bolt came out. I say try it and judge for yourself.

 

Rick

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I did away with mine maybe two years ago. I did the Progressive springs and had no more problem with the front diving on me. I also added the SS lines and the Condor Fork Brace. The front has great braking control now and the lever is rock solid with the SS lines on. Just pull the lines and use the short union bolt from the anti-dives to tie the line to the caliper. I made my own bolts to cap off the anti-dive units.

 

Worked for me.

 

Mike

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