Purchased a new Harbor Freight "TAG ALONG"

I am not getting why people are wanting or feeling the need to add weather strip around the lid. I have not had mine long but I have towed it in serious rain and back azz dusty dirt roads and have not noticed any dust get in nor one drop of water.

 

It seems to me you would be just adding a problem.

 

I agree. I've gone thru several storms, long trips (4 weeks/10,000km) and never had an issue with water or road dust getting into the trailer. You don't need weather stripping unless it makes you feel better.

It pulled great. Some 75-80 mph interstate and a lot of curvy road out around Carter Caves. I checked the tires and wheel bearings right after the interstate speeds. Everything was cool and ready for more. I was surprised that the tires where not hardly even warm. The wheel bearing area was cold. I give this trailer an A+. All I need is some weather stripping around the lip to keep the road dust out and the plastic chrome hubcaps.

 

I love it when a plan comes together. After about 100-200 miles, its a good idea to re-check the trailer bearings for play. If you mentioned that you have checked the trailer axle/coupler alignment, I may have missed it....I hope you have or will.

 

As far as hubcaps, I wonder if either golf cart 'baby moons' would work or maybe try to get in contact with CycleMate or TimeOut (google them) and see if they will sell you a set of baby moons or the mag-spoke design that we see on their trailers.

 

On a trailer that I have with the 8 inch wheels, I removed the wheels from the trailer, masked off the tire, and painted the rims with rattlecan black bumper paint. (you could use any color gloss if desired)

 

Then I replaced the stock lug nuts with chrome acorn style nuts, and lined the rim with a 'beauty ring'.....a piece of chrome edge guard used for door edge. I glued it on and I have to say....the wheels look pretty good.

 

 

 

I just rode 1500 miles with that trailer behind me. Please put the appropriate psi rating regardless of weight, and do not exceed 65MPH towing. These tires are rated and they get HOT fast!! I always tow with max psi and stay as close to 65mph as I can. Do what you want, others will disagree. 25psi @ 70-80mph don't do it!!

I just rode 1500 miles with that trailer behind me. Please put the appropriate psi rating regardless of weight, and do not exceed 65MPH towing. These tires are rated and they get HOT fast!! I always tow with max psi and stay as close to 65mph as I can. Do what you want, others will disagree. 25psi @ 70-80mph don't do it!!

 

It's possible that some light duty or cheap tires 8" will get hot running 25-35 psi....but good 8" tires, rated for around 800 to 1000 pounds each should be able to handle 200-250 pounds load at less than rated pressure.

 

If your tires are getting HOT they are overloaded or under-inflated. Or its a really hot summer day with pavement temps around 150. Or a combination of these. (severe misalignment could also heat up the tires)

 

When the tire sidewall shows MAX rating thats what it means. But maximum inflation means a stiff or bouncy ride back there if the load is very light.

 

Max rating is at max load. But if you find that after all the above, they just run too warm for you, try inflating them another 10 psi or so.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 14, 2014 by tx2sturgis

Hence, "other's will disagree" Max inflation, 1500 miles, no bounce, very hot day and the tires stayed warm to touch, same on my 35' travel trailer. They are speed rated at max psi. Please, do what your comfortable with.

Hence, "other's will disagree" Max inflation, 1500 miles, no bounce, very hot day and the tires stayed warm to touch, same on my 35' travel trailer. They are speed rated at max psi. Please, do what your comfortable with.

 

True...

 

But I have never and will never tell anyone to reduce inflation pressures on travel trailer tires, motorcycle tires, car tires, or truck tires. Most of those applications use tires that are sized and rated for the application...with some extra capacity thrown in for good measure.

 

Suppose you took your 10,000 pound travel trailer, and stripped everything off the frame of it. Remove the walls, the floor, the roof, the fixtures, the cabinets, the fridge, the furnace, the holding tanks...everything. Nothing left but the frame and the tires, wheels, and axles. Lets say that frame, by itself, weighs 1000 pounds.

 

Hook it up to your pickup and pull it down the road. Still think max pressure is needed in those tires?

 

The situation is similar for our little motorcycle trailers. The tires we can get are rated for MUCH more weight than we should ever carry in those trailers behind a bike.

 

Of course, if you load up 10, #80 bags of concrete mix in that little cargobox, ...THEN its probably a good idea to run the tires at full tilt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

True...

 

But I have never and will never tell anyone to reduce inflation pressures on travel trailer tires, motorcycle tires, car tires, or truck tires. Most of those applications use tires that are sized and rated for the application...with some extra capacity thrown in for good measure.

 

Suppose you took your 10,000 pound travel trailer, and stripped everything off the frame of it. Remove the walls, the floor, the roof, the fixtures, the cabinets, the fridge, the furnace, the holding tanks...everything. Nothing left but the frame and the tires, wheels, and axles. Lets say that frame, by itself, weighs 1000 pounds.

 

Hook it up to your pickup and pull it down the road. Still think max pressure is needed in those tires?

 

The situation is similar for our little motorcycle trailers. The tires we can get are rated for MUCH more weight than we should ever carry in those trailers behind a bike.

 

Of course, if you load up 10, #80 bags of concrete mix in that little cargobox, ...THEN its probably a good idea to run the tires at full tilt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I agree wit hour explanation tx2sturgis. I will say that I am kinda worried about the 55 mph rated tires that come on these though. Being said, I will be constantly checking the tires and axle bearings for heat or some abnormal wear. I still need to check the alignment of the trailer though as some have suggested. Once I understand the correct way of doing it.

I have been looking for and founds some chrome center caps and acorn nuts. Just have not ordered it. Thanks for the idea.

 

I agree wit hour explanation tx2sturgis. I will say that I am kinda worried about the 55 mph rated tires that come on these though. Being said, I will be constantly checking the tires and axle bearings for heat or some abnormal wear. I still need to check the alignment of the trailer though as some have suggested. Once I understand the correct way of doing it.

I have been looking for and founds some chrome center caps and acorn nuts. Just have not ordered it. Thanks for the idea.

 

 

DISCLAIMER: This is my experience, not a recommendation.

 

After I load my Tag Along, (BTW I have 3oz of Ride-On in each tire) I air the tires up just enough so there is very little, if any sidewall deflection. The pressure then is generally around 23 psi. This has worked well for me. The 1st (cheap Chinese) tires that came with the trailer lasted well over 10,000 miles before I changed them. I ran them and their replacements at interstate speeds with no (so far) problems.

This thread has got me working on my trailer again. Started a couple years ago, but never finished yet. I got a few good ideas from this thread. Once I get it all figured out how I want it, I will disassemble for paint.

Gaining progress on mine now. Today I've completed grinding down the corners where I shortened it. Next I'll either start to disassemble for paint or decide which flooring I going to use on the bottom of the trailer. I would like to get a piece of diamond plate to add more bling. The box has not been attached but I do like the idea of the looped hooks inside.

Flyinfool

said Whether you go 4 wire or 5 wire, it is all personal preference, I would still use an isolator either way so that all of the trailer power is not coming through the bikes ignition switch, It is well documented that the ignition switch is the weak link in the electrical system on these bikes.

Simple fix for ignition switch load? Install a by pass relay.

I dont know if I want to get back into pulling a trailer with the bike. Really dont take any trips all that long anymore that I need a week or more stuff. So I'm afraid it would have to be stored somewhere most of the time. But I like the small car top carrier type trailers. These jobs look to be the most cost effective way to haul "stuff" The camper ones are great, but way outa my $$. Besides indoor plumbing is kinda nice.

The diamond plate is a nice addition. However to save weight I would look at using the aluminum stuff vs the steel.

Edited September 19, 2014 by djh3

After several hours of searching through many web sites and E-bay listings, I have the information for everyone. I am pleased to be able to share it with all. As through out this discussion here I started, no one has been able to help me to find the chrome center caps and acorn nuts. I now understand why. I almost gave up. For days I have searched.

SO HERE YOU GO EVERYONE. TAKE NOTE THAT I HAVE NOT TRIED THESE YET, BUT ARE ON ORDER. I WILL UPDATE LATER. ALTHOUGH I DID CHECK THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE WHEEL AND LUG-NUTS.

Choose the USPS Priority shipping for the cheapest shipping.

Shipping To: James Fultz

J & J Cycle Hitch Mounts LLC

437 REEVES BR Olive Hill, KY 41164 US

Shipping Method

USPS - Priority

TW-LUGNUT Standard Hex Bulge Chrome Acorn Trailer Wheel Lug Nut

$1.00 x 8

$8.00

http://www.trailer-wheels.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/chrome-lug-nut_thumbnail.jpg&maxx=150&maxy=0

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TW-146 2.48 inch center hole and 3 inches out. Chrome Plated Closed End Center Cap for trailer wheels

$5.00 x 2

$10.00

http://www.trailer-wheels.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/248centercap_thumbnail.jpg&maxx=150&maxy=0

 

Subtotal: $18.00

Discount: $0.00

Shipping: $11.55

Sales Tax: $0.00

Total: $29.55

 

http://www.trailer-wheels.com/Center-Caps_c_278.html

tel:800-281-0769

 

I painted my wheels a grey metallic color. So I think this will add the shiny bling I need to my wheels. I hope this helps everyone else out that is needing the bling thing for their small 8" trailer wheels.

Edited September 21, 2014 by FuzzyRSTD

Gaining progress on mine now. Today I've completed grinding down the corners where I shortened it. Next I'll either start to disassemble for paint or decide which flooring I going to use on the bottom of the trailer. I would like to get a piece of diamond plate to add more bling. The box has not been attached but I do like the idea of the looped hooks inside.

 

Hi Skid, Glad your getting your trailer finished. Looks great so far. I have to say that with these new Harbor Freight Tag along packages, it is the way to go Skid. No hard work or money to make it totally road worthy, wow. $369.00 on sale and then with a 20% discount, around $329.00 or so. I don't think you could buy the material and build them for that. They also have a nice paint job to. Check them out. I am very very very pleased so far. She pulls wonderful at high speeds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

I got this trailer 3 or 4 years ago and after a couple discounts I only got $150 in the trailer. The cargo box was purchase for $5 at a yard sale. Owner had lost the keys so they costed me $11 from Sears. Total not counting labor so far around $166.

Edited September 21, 2014 by Skid

I got this trailer 3 or 4 years ago and after a couple discounts I only got $150 in the trailer. The cargo box was purchase for $5 at a yard sale. Owner had lost the keys so they costed me $11 from Sears. Total not counting labor so far around $166.

 

Now that's a steal. Looking like a plan coming together.

Now that's a steal. Looking like a plan coming together.

 

And thanks for the info on the lug nuts and center caps. I'll have to keep that information for later.

I received the chrome lug nuts and center caps. I like them.

 

 

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Nice

I added the extra bracing to the light brackets on both sides. I used 1 1/4" wide x 1/8" thick steel. Cut to length and bent to correct angle on one end and used the existing bolts of the trailer. I painted them and had time to add them on this morning with my sons help. Work great. Time to get ready for church.

 

 

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How much does one of these weigh?

Those centercaps and lug nuts look good!

 

How much does one of these weigh?

144 lb Sir. Mine pulls great. I took it for another trial run today with all my camping gear inside. I had 25 lb of tongue weight. It pulled wonderfully. I traveled about twenty mile of interstate. I had it up to and sustained 80-95 mph for about the last five miles of the interstate travel today. I checked the tires and wheel bearings for heat as soon as I exited. They where cool. I traveled several mile of crooked twisty back roads and it handles great. You can not go wrong with these affordable little trailers. The only thing I was missing in the trailer was two fishing poles and a few pans for camp cooking. I have two fold out chairs, a two man tent, a tarp, an air mattress. A DC air mattress pump. A box of tools, sleeping bag, pot for coffee, Coleman propane two burner stove and a new tank of propane. Some garbage bags, extra bungy cords. Air gauge. A large cooler up on the bracket I made on the trailer tongue. Note; I had no ice or water inside it.

 

http://m.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

Edited September 28, 2014 by FuzzyRSTD

144 lb Sir. Mine pulls great. I took it for another trial run today with all my camping gear inside. I had 25 lb of tongue weight. It pulled wonderfully. I traveled about twenty mile of interstate. I had it up to and sustained 80-95 mph for about the last five miles of the interstate travel today. I checked the tires and wheel bearings for heat as soon as I exited. They where cool. I traveled several mile of crooked twisty back roads and it handles great. You can not go wrong with these affordable little trailers. The only thing I was missing in the trailer was two fishing poles and a few pans for camp cooking. I have two fold out chairs, a two man tent, a tarp, an air mattress. A DC air mattress pump. A box of tools, sleeping bag, pot for coffee, Coleman propane two burner stove and a new tank of propane. Some garbage bags, extra bungy cords. Air gauge. A large cooler up on the bracket I made on the trailer tongue. Note; I had no ice or water inside it.

 

http://m.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

 

It looks like a good trailer, I'm trying to find a way to bring my dog with me on my trips

It looks like a good trailer' date=' I'm trying to find a way to bring my dog with me on my trips[/quote']

 

I would think about some kind of dog transport cage. Maybe those we see at wall mart. I am thinking you are talking about a small terrier type dog. If you have a venture, then you could possibly strap the dog carrier to the luggage rack on back.

It looks like a good trailer, I'm trying to find a way to bring my dog with me on my trips

 

http://www.beastriders.com/beast-riders.html

 

http://www.tbags.com/touring/pet-carrier.html

 

Not cheap, but what is your best friend worth?