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First Carb Sync


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So far I have done a few to my bike and a couple others. I cant say I have experienced significant performance increases, but the idle is smoother, and acceleration is I guess more even would be the way I would describe it.

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For ****z and giggles, I set mine at 3,000 rpm since most of my riding is in the range anyway, just to see how much of a difference it would make.. Once I set the synch at 1,000, I then set it to 3,000 rpm.. and oddly enough it was close to perfect at idle but locked solid at 3,000 as perfect synch.. OK, cool. Riding is much smoother at highway speeds. At idle, I don't notice the slight difference.. So I left it as synch'd at 3,000 rpm. However, after unclogging some vent lines and changing a bunch of relays, the synch is out again and I have to check it again soon.. buzzing in the hands though the mirrors aren't buzzing.. Maybe the synch at idle is all she needs again.. it might have been compensating for those clogged vent lines etc..

 

Anyone else try synch at 3,000 and notice any difference?

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I think the clogged vent lines could be an issue. Depending on what specifically they go to it could effect off idle or acceleration. I was reading a post a fellow was having the dreaded fuel pump problem. It would run but starve out and act like the pump was bad. Turned out the vent line was clogged for the tank (up front of tank on top) and caused the pump to not be able to pump.

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For ****z and giggles, I set mine at 3,000 rpm since most of my riding is in the range anyway, just to see how much of a difference it would make.. Once I set the synch at 1,000, I then set it to 3,000 rpm.. and oddly enough it was close to perfect at idle but locked solid at 3,000 as perfect synch.. OK, cool. Riding is much smoother at highway speeds. At idle, I don't notice the slight difference.. So I left it as synch'd at 3,000 rpm. However, after unclogging some vent lines and changing a bunch of relays, the synch is out again and I have to check it again soon.. buzzing in the hands though the mirrors aren't buzzing.. Maybe the synch at idle is all she needs again.. it might have been compensating for those clogged vent lines etc..

 

Anyone else try synch at 3,000 and notice any difference?

 

There's been a couple of members who have championed the high rpm sync, and then refuted by Goose. I believe Goose...

 

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Should I replace my spark plugs before doing a carb synchronization or out doesn't matter........and by the way anybody near fort Lauderdale Florida with the tool and the know how?it will be useless to me if i don't learn first

 

If you're going to change the plugs, do the synch afterwards, same as cleaning / changing air filters.. all little changes.. The process is very simple and quick that I end up doing it every oil change or every 2 months depending which is longest etc.. and always found a little change.. (perhaps not anymore now that I know to blow the vent hoses out periodically!)

 

Speaking of which, I checked a buddy's RSV who showed a lot of grunge on the left side of the carbs and found he also had the same vent line clogged.. He noticed a difference in the bike after that change.. Now we know where the grunge comes from..

 

In regards to Goose refuting the difference between idle and higher revs synch'ing, I differ to his judgement, as no one knows these bikes more than Goose. Next time I get the opportunity to synch the carbs, I'll do it at 1,000 rpm idle and see what it does..

 

All good info.

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