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H-4 bulbs for headlight


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I have Sylvania Silverstar in my Adjure headlight, I think a replacement is due since it has been in since 2008. I thought I read somewhere here that there is a 6000k H-4 bulb.

Anyone know about this and what brand it is. My 68 year old eyes need more for those rare night rides.

 

:farmer:

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The 6000k only defines the color of the light. The higher the number the bluer the light. That 6000K has nothing at all to due with brightness which is what you need to see at night.

A lot of advertising likes to make it look like the color number is the brightness just because it is a big number.

 

Anything over 6000K is getting so blue that it will be hard to see at all, but it looks cool to some....

 

4300K is a bit yellowish

5000K is very close to white light.

6000K is starting to show some blue but not bad yet.

7000K is getting pretty blue for cosmetic purposes and starting to get harder to see.

 

My headlight is a 6000K only because at the time I bought it they did not make a 5000K.

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The 6000k only defines the color of the light. The higher the number the bluer the light. That 6000K has nothing at all to due with brightness which is what you need to see at night.

A lot of advertising likes to make it look like the color number is the brightness just because it is a big number.

 

Anything over 6000K is getting so blue that it will be hard to see at all, but it looks cool to some....

 

4300K is a bit yellowish

5000K is very close to white light.

6000K is starting to show some blue but not bad yet.

7000K is getting pretty blue for cosmetic purposes and starting to get harder to see.

 

My headlight is a 6000K only because at the time I bought it they did not make a 5000K.

 

Thanks Jeff, what should I use. I believe that the H-4 I have is 5000k, but it doesn't show well on the road. The pass lights are much whiter but are only H-3 and newer.

 

:farmer:

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I was running an OSRAM 100/80 Halogen lamp (part# 62203) for a while on it's own H4 curcuit off the battery into the bike's connector for the hi/low beam functionality.. now THAT'S bright! Even with the 40W amp running the radio's sound system, it didn't over tax the charging system since the highway and running lights are all LED. But it was noticeably yellow compared to the LED highway light so I'm trying out an LED headlight.. white, but doesn't seem to throw light as far or as bright as the OSRAM, but possibly as bright as the 65/55 typical H4 headlight bulb if not slightly brighter....

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I had a sylvania 80/100w BP1210/H4.check this page. . Here is a [ame=http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140171-Halogen-Bulb-Road/dp/B000COBLKW/ref=pd_sim_auto_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0555F0TN3VDPKVX65G37]Amazon.com: HELLA HLA-H83140171 H4 12V 100/80W Halogen Bulb Off Road Use: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/411XSij-ypL.@@AMEPARAM@@411XSij-ypL[/ame] for less than $8.

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Wear 'shooting'/'night driving' glasses. The yellow tint causes the pupil of the eye to open and gather more light.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

 

:no-no-no::no-no-no::no-no-no:

http://www.laramyk.com/resources/education/dispensing/the-dangers-of-night-driving-glasses/

The Dangers of Night Driving Glasses

 

 

 

It is an all too common misconception that yellow tinted or yellow polarized night driving glasses are beneficial for night time driving. The thought is, the yellow or amber color reduces glare and improves contrast. However, in reality, when driving at night or dusk in already limited lighting conditions, ANY tint further reduces the amount of light transmitted to the eye, and consequently, further impairs vision. The problem is compounded as the yellow tint gives the wearer the impression they are seeing better, when in fact the reverse is actually true.

 

“Yellow ‘Night Driving’ lenses have been shown to provide no benefit in seeing ability at night. They are even hazardous, because they give the driver a feeling of seeing better, which no one has yet been able to explain. Studies have shown that they actually impair visual performance and retard glare recovery. Many promoters have made unfounded claims for the ability of amber to improve night vision. They have employed mass solicitation, usually by mail. The Federal Trade Commission has correctly ruled that such practices are illegal since the lenses do not perform as claimed.” –
Forensic Aspects of Vision and Highway Safety”, Merrill J. Allen, O.D., Ph.D., Et al.

While yellow lenses can be effective for foggy or hazy daylight conditions, they are not effective against headlight glare and should not be worn at dusk or night. If glare from headlights is a problem, the first step should be a thorough eye examination, as this could be an early indication of cataracts or other medical conditions.

“So-called night driving glasses are generally amber tinted eyewear meant to reduce the glare of oncoming headlights. While they may make the driver feel more comfortable, they also reduce the wearers visibility of the darker portions of the roadway.” –
Sunglass Association of America

The best option for night time driving is a pair of spectacles with clear lenses and an AR coating. The AR coating is beneficial in two ways. First, it minimizes internal reflections within the lenses, reducing halo problems, and second, it increases the transmittance of light through the lens to the eye. However, it is important to note, if a patient does not normally wear spectacles, AR coated lenses, or any other type of night driving glasses will not improve night vision, as AR coatings only minimize aberrations that are inherent in ophthalmic lenses and night driving glasses will simply serve to introduce those abberations to the wearer’s vision.

Tips for optimal night time driving vision:

- Make sure eyes are examined regularly

- Always wear an up-to-date prescription

- Lenses worn should be clear with an AR coating

- Ensure lenses are clean

- Ensure windshield is clean

- Ensure headlights are clean and properly aligned

Responsible dispensers of ophthalmic lenses should discourage the use of tinted, polarized, or photochromic lenses in night time or dusk driving conditions and not participate in solicitation or marketing of so-called night driving glasses by irresponsible manufacturers.

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A point of note on the higher power headlight bulbs. they are 80/100 watt and there by draw more power. Part of the reason I shyed away from mine was this power draw, I went HID. I am thinking about going back but if I do I am thinking about running new wire for power supply via a relay for the different beams.

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The HID make down the road visibility better not because the are usually 6000K, but because the make a lot more light. The light source in an HID is basically the same thing as the arc from a welder. It is just very bright for the watts that it uses. If possible I will always have HID on my bike till I see something better.

 

LED is getting close but is not quite there yet. A dedicated LED in a housing designed for that LED will do a great job lighting up the road so the technology of getting a LED to produce enough light is there. Now we just need the light makers to make housings to make use of the LED light source.

 

There is no replacement LED bulb (That I have seen) that will focus properly when swapped into a housing not designed for it. Even a HID swap is not perfect in a housing made for incandescent but is pretty darn close, and is acceptable (to me) as long as you take the time to aim it properly.

 

I have tried the High wattage incandescent bulbs, they are bright, no problems there, but they draw a LOT of power and get really hot. The heat can melt the connector, many have had to switch to a ceramic connector to handle the heat. The power draw may be an issue if you have other power hungry things like heated gear or other additional lighting.

 

So there is good and bad in all of the technologies that are available. You have to decide which advantages will outweigh which disadvantages for you. That is why you have seen several different opinions on which is the best way to get more light on the road. Each of these people chose which features were most important to them in their situation.

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Has anyone tried the PIAA H4 Star White Antivibration Halogen Bulb or the H4 Night Tech Single Halogen Bulb. Sounds like they only use the stock wattage but put out 110/100w of light.

http://www.piaa.com/store/c/44-Powersport-Bulbs.aspx?Attribs=38

 

Also something to consider is their line of LED driving and fog lights, LP530 as they focus the light back to a reflector that they creates the light beam.

 

http://www.piaa.com/store/p/188-LP-530-High-Intensity-LED-Fog-Light-Kit.aspx

http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP-530-High-Intensity-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

 

Just curious if anyone has tried any of these on the Ventures yet?

Thanks

Rick F.

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The headlight bulbs look to be an option to the actual higher watt. Now if they actually look that way and produce it I dont know. I have had a couple of the other 65=85 or whatever bulbs in the past and they dont measure up.

On the fog/driving lights. yes I have seen those, but lack a sponsor to purchase them. $300 for lights just aint in my budget.

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"4,300 Kelvin indicates a white light with a slightly yellow tint. It is fairly close in color to sunlight. In HID lamps, this color gives the most visible light. It is generally chosen by car manufacturers because of its high performance."

If you check it out you will find this is generally true in regard to OEM HIDs. I ended up installing a H4 xenon HID kit with a 4300 K bulb from these guys :

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/H4-HID-Kits-s/10071.htm

Followed that up with Truck Lite Phase 7 LEDs in the Yamaha buckets. Lights up the road at night like all get-out. Have the passing lights set to the ditches somewhat as there are way too many deer in northern MN. Brother in law could just as soon shut off his setup when riding with me at night. He is still using halogens. And I do have them aimed properly. No problems with folks hitting me with their high beams.

BTW those Truck Lites are somewhat small for the Yamaha buckets but that was an easy fix by shortening the mounting nut one half an inch and making an aluminum ring to fit tightly around the edge of the lamp and wide enough to grab the edge of the bucket. Works well for me and I am also on the back side of the hill but don't feel like it.

Just something more to ponder...

Larry L

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