Is this a Fuel pump issue?

Ever since we where away in Europe and the bike sat for over 15 day's I do not hear the usual clicking of the pump when I turn the bike on. I would have expected after it not being used for 15 day's that it would have needed to prime, but only one click. Is this normal or am I heading for having to replace the points? I did dump a half can of seafoam in it before I parked it.

Bike runs fine and starts on first try. On choke, I did notice that it seems to want to bog down a bit after a few seconds, when I go to half choke works fine. Once in a while on starting on full choke I am sensing a backfire through the carb when it starts but it starts and runs.

Any ideas:confused24:

Thanks

If you turned on the key without starting the bike the carbs would stay cool and you would have a lot less evaporation out of the bowls. Usually a person would ride the bike, get the motor hot and then park it, and so the heat from the motor over the next time frame will evaporate the fuel in the carbs,,,, not so much when the engine is cool.

Also, if it starts and runs fine, then you are getting fuel and that is what the pump is supposed to do, so it seems like it might be doing what it is supposed to do.

Ok, thanks. I guess I worry too much:scorched:. Getting paranoid with all of the talk about fuel pump failures.

I have put about 200,000 miles on a pair of 2007 Ventures, have never gotten more than 50,000 miles out of the pump. Quits about 42 - 45,000 average. The bike will start and run fine after the pump dies as long as you are running on the top 3.5 - 4 gals in the tank, when you get to the bottom it bogs and on reserve will not pull enough gas to start the bike. Found an after market pump on amazon for a lot less, still on the first one with about 20,000 miles so do not know if it will be better or not. This looks like it only has one nipple but it has the required two.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Fuel-Pump-18-5527/dp/B008OXIU3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412195174&sr=8-2&keywords=venture+royal+star+fuel+pump]Amazon.com: K&L Supply Fuel Pump 18-5527: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41TdD%2B44Q6L.@@AMEPARAM@@41TdD%2B44Q6L[/ame] by K&L Supply

Ok, thanks. I guess I worry too much. Getting paranoid with all of the talk about fuel pump failures.

Mine died around the 50K miles marker and replaced under warranty.. bike now has 135K miles on it and pump is rolling on fine.. Remember to change your fuel filter! I change mine each year, inexpensive peace of mind, easy to get at once relocated..

Bike worked fine on Friday, this morning went to start it up and it did start, stayed on full choke for about 1 min then suddently bogged down and stalled. I got it to run again for a few seconds but then nothing.:bang head: The other thing that I noticed was that lately my power was up on a full tank but would not be as prime as the tank wore down. Filled it up on Friday though. Based on those symptoms I now believe that the pump quit. I have not heard it clicking for about a full month now, so I guess I am lucky it happened at home and not on the road.

Checked on ebay for a set of points and with shipping to Canada it will cost me about $90 + probably 2-3 weeks for delivery. That is too expensive and will take too long. Will call dealer this morning to see if I can get a set of points from him, if not will get a whole new pump and filter. Bike has 45000 miles on it. :mad::mad:

Based on what you described where the bike falters as the fuel level goes down in your fuel tank, this had happened to me in the past and it was all due to a clogged FUEL FILTER... Once the fuel filter was changed out, all worked well again, until the overworked fuel pump died a few months later.

If this is the case with your bike, what you're experiencing is that a full fuel tank adds head pressure to the system to assist the fuel pump to suck the fuel out of the tank past the restriction of a clogged fuel filter (the weight of the fuel helps to push past the clogged filter), but when the fuel level goes down below a certain point, there isn't enough weight of fuel to assist anymore and you end up with a fuel starvation problem. Switching the bike to reserve at this point allows a bit more height of fuel for a little bit but the problem will manifest itself again once a certain level is reached.

Again, if this is the case with your bike, your fuel pump is working overtime trying to pull that fuel through the filter and will most likely start suffering a premature failure in the near future.

If you haven't yet had a chance to do so, have a look at your fuel filter, replace it if it hasn't been replaced in a while.. and while you're doing that, relocate it to a more accessible spot to make the next fuel filter change easier. I put mine under the seat, making sure no pinching or kinking of the fuel lines exist.

Before condemning the fuel pump, take a multimeter, and test for voltage on the

connector at the pump.

With key on, kill switch on, in neutral should have power for a couple seconds then stop. Once cranking starter, should have power again.

Thanks Seaking and Neil86:

I have resolved myself to replacing both the pump and the filter. ($350 for pump and $22 for the filter--OUCH). This way I have peace of mind on a go forward basis, would hate to be stranded away from home. Based on your comments, I will replace the filter first to see if the pump works. Then, if it does, I will still replace with the new pump and then look at replacing the points on the old pump and keep it as a backup.

Wonder if that Seafoam I added to the tank before leaving on the Europe trip got some crud through the system to the filter? Although I suspect that the fuel filter is the original with over 45k miles on it.

I take it I do not need to disconnect the battery to change out the pump, but make sure that the key is off until everything is buttoned back up again?

Thanks for the advice.

I would sure hate to spend $350 and find out I had a power issue...but its your bike.

Bert!

Do this before you spend the money on the pump:

Next time it acts up, pull off the left side cover, (remove one hex bolt, the other is fake and comes off with the cover)

With ignition ON, kill switch ON, engine not running (of course), take a small 6" crescent, or nut driver, or other similar metal tool (or use the handle of any common screwdriver) and tap gently on the pump. If you hear it start to click, its getting iffy, but this will get you going for awhile. Also, if the metallic part of the pump is HOT after a minute or so, when its not pumping, its on the way out.

You can ride the bike this way for awhile, but you need to have a new pump OR a set of points ready to install at the next opportunity.

Thanks Seaking and Neil86:

 

I have resolved myself to replacing both the pump and the filter. ($350 for pump and $22 for the filter--OUCH). This way I have peace of mind on a go forward basis, would hate to be stranded away from home. Based on your comments, I will replace the filter first to see if the pump works. Then, if it does, I will still replace with the new pump and then look at replacing the points on the old pump and keep it as a backup.

 

Wonder if that Seafoam I added to the tank before leaving on the Europe trip got some crud through the system to the filter? Although I suspect that the fuel filter is the original with over 45k miles on it.

 

I take it I do not need to disconnect the battery to change out the pump, but make sure that the key is off until everything is buttoned back up again?

 

Thanks for the advice.

The fuel filter is scheduled to be changed out at 20,000 miles so it was due.. long over due. Because of the issue I had, I change mine every spring regardless of miles on the bike.. just good cheap insurance..

Though you probably might not have had to replace the pump if it was indeed just the filter being clogged up, but if your bike does what mine did, the pump would soon follow later on down the road due to it being overworked with the clogged filter. It died about 2 months later on a road trip.. So being a big bite out of the wallet, at least you have the peace of mind that the system is new. I would get new points and service the old pump and hold it as a spare.. a buddy of mine had his pump replaced under warranty only to have it fail once again just after the warranty period was up.. (sneaky little timers they put on these parts...

I wouldn't think Seafoam by itself was your culprit, but not changing the fuel filter on a regular basis doesn't help down the road.

The fuel filter is scheduled to be changed out at 20,000 miles so it was due.. long over due. Because of the issue I had, I change mine every spring regardless of miles on the bike.. just good cheap insurance..

 

Though you probably might not have had to replace the pump if it was indeed just the filter being clogged up, but if your bike does what mine did, the pump would soon follow later on down the road due to it being overworked with the clogged filter. It died about 2 months later on a road trip.. So being a big bite out of the wallet, at least you have the peace of mind that the system is new. I would get new points and service the old pump and hold it as a spare.. a buddy of mine had his pump replaced under warranty only to have it fail once again just after the warranty period was up.. (sneaky little timers they put on these parts...

 

I wouldn't think Seafoam by itself was your culprit, but not changing the fuel filter on a regular basis doesn't help down the road.

Ok thanks, my thinking exaclty on not wanting to be left stranded by the old pump if its just the clogged filter. I will change both now and hopefully :whistling:be done with it. Will also be replacing that filter on a regular basis and once a year sounds just about right.

is there any modification need to put that K&L pump in? if not I was thinking of getting one just in case

Bert!

 

Do this before you spend the money on the pump:

 

Next time it acts up, pull off the left side cover, (remove one hex bolt, the other is fake and comes off with the cover)

 

With ignition ON, kill switch ON, engine not running (of course), take a small 6" crescent, or nut driver, or other similar metal tool (or use the handle of any common screwdriver) and tap gently on the pump. If you hear it start to click, its getting iffy, but this will get you going for awhile. Also, if the metallic part of the pump is HOT after a minute or so, when its not pumping, its on the way out.

 

You can ride the bike this way for awhile, but you need to have a new pump OR a set of points ready to install at the next opportunity.

 

Will be trying to tap the pump tonight as it only stranded me this morning. I am replacing both the filter and the pump now so I have some peace of mind. Will replace points on the old pump and keep it as a backup for the future. Parts should arrive on thursday so weekend project here we come. Hate to have to push this beast more than 20 feet.

Well there is a much much less expensive fuel filter that work folks. Available at most part house. duralast FF3330DL or a WIX 33095 or FRAM G3606.

Also I dont know if previously I linked the write up I did on the Mr Gasket pump but here it is. If you decide to use the more expensive Facet it would be very similar but may have a couple fittings different. Anyways the listing of what fittings are needed is in the write up so even if you have to go somewhere else you know what kind of fitting you need. The OEM is trouble just looking for a place to crap out on you.

Got home after work and tried to start and it still would not, so I removed the side cover and gave the pump a few taps with the handle of a screwdriver and it started ticking and bike started with no hesitation whatsoever.

New pump and filter are on order and will be installed by the weekend.

Thanks all who posted as it helped me greatly.

Its only money...but at least you now KNOW what the issue is....rather than guessing.

 

I take it I do not need to disconnect the battery to change out the pump, but make sure that the key is off until everything is buttoned back up again?

I recommend disconnecting the ground battery cable to service the pump, but if you are VERY slow and careful where you insert or lay down metal wrenches....

I take that back...unhook the battery cable! Sparks and gas fumes....not a good mix.

Also...take a coffee can with you and a pocket full of quarters or whatever large coins yall are using now...

Everytime you cuss while doing this job, drop a coin in the coffee can.

When the job is done, you will have enuff money in the coffee can for a beer or a burger.

You're welcome.

I recommend disconnecting the ground battery cable to service the pump, but if you are VERY slow and careful where you insert or lay down metal wrenches....

 

I take that back...unhook the battery cable! Sparks and gas fumes....not a good mix.

 

Also...take a coffee can with you and a pocket full of quarters or whatever large coins yall are using now...

 

Everytime you cuss while doing this job, drop a coin in the coffee can.

 

When the job is done, you will have enuff money in the coffee can for a beer or a burger.

 

You're welcome.

 

 

 

Good advice on the battery. As for the coffee can, knowing me it will fill up quite fast...

:rotf:

Good advice on the battery. As for the coffee can, knowing me it will fill up quite fast...

 

:rotf:

I should have said that sparks and gas fumes aren't a good mix on the OUTSIDE of the motor.....but inside the motor...its a pretty good thing.

Someone would have pointed that out...I HAD to beat them to the punch!

Here's what I've done. It may or may not work for everyone, but I bought a used pump off EBay for a pittance, and cleaned it up. Then bought a new set of points. Looked at the old set and they looked OK, but if they didn't, I would have swapped them out for the new set. So for about $30 bucks I'll always have a good set to R&R. I'll do the same thing to the bad set, and have another pump sitting in the wings ready to go for $30 to $35 bucks. The only reason I bought the used pump is that I wasn't thinking and tossed the old pump that I replaced with new OEM in the '07.

Just a heads up. I just ordered another 2 point sets from [ame]Amazon [/ame]for $25.38 ea. Free shipping. A heck of a lot cheaper than anything else on the market. I figure this will take care of any fuel pump problems as long as I'm going to be around riding a Venture. I bet some industrious member could start a business of rebuilding the pumps and sell them for say... $75.00 w/exchange. I'm still not sold on the Mr. Gasket 42S with all the plumbing and adapting you'd have to do to put one in.... Being a lazy sort personally....

Maybe I should put my ole junker up for sale. I can recoup over half of my replacement one.

Just a heads up. I just ordered another 2 point sets from http://Amazon for $25.38 ea. Free shipping. A heck of a lot cheaper than anything else on the market. I figure this will take care of any fuel pump problems as long as I'm going to be around riding a Venture. I bet some industrious member could start a business of rebuilding the pumps and sell them for say... $75.00 w/exchange. I'm still not sold on the Mr. Gasket 42S with all the plumbing and adapting you'd have to do to put one in.... Being a lazy sort personally....

Replacing the points is very easy and takes approx. 30 minutes and the pump doesn't need to be removed from bike to do the job. You will need a soldering iron to remove one wire and resolder upon replacement. I've got more time than money, so these type repairs give me something to do.