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Purchased a new Harbor Freight "TAG ALONG"


FuzzyRSTD

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My friend JD Holbrooks and I are working on it right now doing the upgrades.

MOSTLY JD, THE TRAILER IS AT HIS HOUSE.

 

#1. LED bulbs in existing lights. Anyone know exactly what I need for this ? PLANNING STAGE

#2. Adding diamond plate on rear with extra LEDS. PLANNING STAGE.

#3. Greased/packed bearings. DONE

#4. Using original tires. DONE

#5. Painted rims a grey metallic. DONE But I am looking for chrome hubcaps ?

#6. Putting an little extra seal around the lid to keep dust out. PLANNING STAGE

#7. Ordered the wiring harness from Steve here on the forum member classifieds. PLANNING STAGE

#8. Ordered an isolator and converter (from 5 wire to 4 wire) built together. PLANNING STAGE

#9. Cooler adjustable diamond plate carrier on tongue. DONE

#10. Added spare tire underneath trailer. DONE

#11. Changing out car topper attachment bolts to the eye-bolts for to hold the material being hauled in place with straps or bungees. PLANNING STAGE

#12. Put the washers on bolts between the ball attachment lock thingy and frame. PLANNING STAGE

#13. Also adding boat carpet to the inside. PLANNING STAGE ???

DID I MISS SOMETHING ??????????

I WILL POST PICTURES WHEN SHE IS DONE.

ANY IDEAS & LINKS TO SOME STICKERS OR LOGOS FOR MY TRAILER WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED. I HAVE THE 2007 RSTD - RED RAVEN COLOR.

 

:worthless:

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Guest tx2sturgis

DID I MISS SOMETHING ??????????

 

Lengthen drawbar.

 

Invert axle, remove helper spring.

 

Check axle alignment.

 

Verify tires are NOT inflated to maximum.

 

Not all of these are necessary on every HF trailer but look into each one and determine your needs and wants.

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Mine is About done still waiting on some parts.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/20140824_201505_zpscu4o7kpd.jpg

 

My friend JD Holbrooks and I are working on it right now doing the upgrades.

MOSTLY JD, THE TRAILER IS AT HIS HOUSE.

 

#1. LED bulbs in existing lights. Anyone know exactly what I need for this ? PLANNING STAGE

My light set up is Amazing. I added Yellow LED Turn lights to Omit the need for a Isolator/converter. It wires direct then. Use a 5 wire Plug. The wires are on the trailer just change the plug and re direct one of the white wires. The LEDs I Bought as a replacement have no Side Lamps. I had to Add Red LEDs. All my Added lights are in the body of the lid as well as all the wires. I also added Center Brake flashin stop lamp and Reflective DOT tape all the way around and Amber reflectors up front.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/20140723_234951_zpsgwxgds5o.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/20140812_153920_zpshnnxkkkn.jpg

You can somewhat see the light set up here. The red one in the Middle that is round is also found on the sides as Side lamps. You can see them in the mirrors on Sunny day! Also you can see the difference int he tires as I have one stock and one Aftermarket on in this Picture. The wider tire looks good and goes into less holes. Plus it takes the Cragar Caps! Shown here.

 

#2. Adding diamond plate on rear with extra LEDS. PLANNING STAGE.

Add something that extends beyond everything else and make it a bumper so you can store it on end. As it is, the lights hit. You will need square tube that fits into the frame at the rear.

#3. Greased/packed bearings. DONE

#4. Using original tires. DONE

#5. Painted rims a grey metallic. DONE But I am looking for chrome hubcaps ?

Google 8 inch Golf cart Hub caps. The deep dish will not fit. I got the Cragar ones but I added Deep Dish double wide C Tires and wheels. Amazon works. You will need a cover that cones outward a bit like Baby moons.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/Venture%202008/20140824_201458_zpsm1p5claz.jpg

I get sharpest hub cap award!

 

#6. Putting an little extra seal around the lid to keep dust out. PLANNING STAGE

Skip it not needed will cause problems. Its tight enough.

 

#7. Ordered the wiring harness from Steve here on the forum member classifieds. PLANNING STAGE

Had I known I would have told to you have him add 4 extra feet of wire, Then all you do is put a Plug on the end of the quick connect type and no wire connections! But you already ordered. I put magnets on my wire and they hold it to the bike and I plug the harness in under the seat and run it down along the Left side under pass seat and to the hitch. ONLY WHEN I TOW otherwise I unplug it!

 

#8. Ordered an isolator and converter (from 5 wire to 4 wire) built together. PLANNING STAGE

As I said you dont need it. To me its more problems and less space on the bike that thing is big. And $15 worth of lights and you omit it. But ALREADY ORDERED! Have fun!

 

#9. Cooler adjustable diamond plate carrier on tongue. DONE

I am using a Grille, it slides into a channel on the front and bolts down with a rubber battery box mount. When I get to a camp I have my cooler and a spare Grille.

 

#10. Added spare tire underneath trailer. DONE

Hope its towards the rear. Put a Cap on the threads or it wont come off when you need it to.

 

#11. Changing out car topper attachment bolts to the eye-bolts for to hold the material being hauled in place with straps or bungees. PLANNING STAGE

I Skipped that. Its not that much space, once you pack all your stuff in there its not moving and the eyelets will get in the way. I could not get my Cott in there with them installed.

 

#12. Put the washers on bolts between the ball attachment lock thingy and frame. PLANNING STAGE

I Used Nylon Washers from Lowes, Bring your bolt. Nylon = Quiet and less rust.

 

#13. Also adding boat carpet to the inside. PLANNING STAGE ???

I used a Foam Mat X2 like an exercise mat, When I get to camp it doubles as a door mat in front of the tent. I got a deal on two 4X4 The fit perfect one on the bottom and one on the lid and they keep it cool inside like a cooler. i lucked out at Star Supply in Youngstown Ohio.

 

DID I MISS SOMETHING ??????????

When you assemble it Measure for the alignment Mine was so far off I almost had to drill new holes. You measure in an A pattern from each hub to the center of the tongue, Google it.

 

I WILL POST PICTURES WHEN SHE IS DONE.

I was going to, But I am not done yet, and I am so busy trying to figure out why my bike has poor low end preformance. No help here. I know someone knows, but they just are not telling. So It has ruined 4 week vacations so far, Its going to the dealer. I am sure I will be just as unhappy about that. But I cant figure it out. Near as I can figure with the Clymer its Vales at 21K miles? Where is my Goldwing!

 

I could give you a lot more info but hard to give a haircut over the phone. Most of the important stuff is mentioned. BTW they do make LED bulbs that plug right into those sockets I have some on my Camper. And when and if you do the omit converter. You use and add. one wire to light both Brakes. And each turn signal you added gets its own wire. 5 wires total just like the bike. Ground all lights with a wire not the trailer.

 

ANY IDEAS & LINKS TO SOME STICKERS OR LOGOS FOR MY TRAILER WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED. I HAVE THE 2007 RSTD - RED RAVEN COLOR.

 

:worthless:

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Lengthen drawbar.

 

Invert axle, remove helper spring.

 

Check axle alignment.

 

Verify tires are NOT inflated to maximum.

 

Not all of these are necessary on every HF trailer but look into each one and determine your needs and wants.

 

With the Tag-Along you don't have to invert the axle or remove helper spring. The tongue IS the correct length for the Tag-Along.

 

Some people have used the flat bed trailer from HF and had to do these things. With the Tag-Along you don't have to do these things.

 

-------------------------------------

 

Tires can be run around 25psi.

 

Other things to do :

- put rubber grommets on holes in frame where wires pass thru. I used black garden hose that I had laying around and that did the trick

- check the customer reviews on the HF site....there was something to do to reduce "rattle".

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When I bought mine I followed the customer comments and did the following :

- repack bearings

- rubber tubing (actually a piece of garden hose) on the shackle bolt (rear capture bolt)

- replaced lights with LED's (HF boat/waterproof LED's)

- put rubber (another piece of black garden hose) thru the holes where the wiring went thru the frame

- replaced the zerk fittings - one was broken out of the box

- replaced bolts holding the "car carrier" box to the frame with eye bolts. Will replace these with ones I saw at a trailer store that fold flat. This way I can use helmet nets to secure any load down while trailering

- shimmed coupler bolts with a couple washers - DON'T over tighten or it squezes the coupler in and the ball release won't work properly

 

I added a cooler rack to the tongue (made by a neighbour) and you have to be careful of the tongue weight. You'll want no more than 25-30lbs of tongue weight. The location of the wheels doesn't give a lot of room for shifting weight. I had a brackets welded onto the frame at each back corner and in the appropriate location at the front of the frame so that my box is as far back as I can get it. Think it moved back 4" and gives me more flexibility over balancing the load and adjusting the tongue weight (DO NOT EXCEED 30-35lbs of tongue weight or the bike will feel like the front wheel of the bike is floating)

 

This thread has pictures of what the brackets look like - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=759347&postcount=1

Edited by XV1100SE
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And, just looked at the HF flyer that is sitting on my desk, page 7.

Shows Tag-Along on sale for $369.99 (reg $449.99) and the $20% coupon on the front does not exclude it.

This is good through 8/31/14,,, so, a few more days. Real good price if you are not looking for a high $$$ trailer.

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Guest tx2sturgis
With the Tag-Along you don't have to invert the axle or remove helper spring. The tongue IS the correct length for the Tag-Along.

 

Some people have used the flat bed trailer from HF and had to do these things. With the Tag-Along you don't have to do these things.

 

-------------------------------------

 

Tires can be run around 25psi.

 

 

Cool...you mean they actually make a decent, ready to pull, HF trailer for motorcycles?

 

Yeah I kinda had the other one in mind when I posted that, and I have seen mention of the 'tag-a-long' model...I had assumed it was the same basic trailer as the HF 4 foot flatbed cheapie.

 

Sounds like its probably a Chinese copy of the Piggy Backer...but I think the Piggy Backer has torsion bar suspension.

 

SO...I retract the frame and axle modification advice. Its relevant in some Harbor Freight trailer applications, but not others. Tire pressure is still best kept at about 22-30...not 50 or 55 psi as printed on some trailer tire sidewalls. Thats for MAXIMUM load. It's still a really good idea to check trailer axle alignment. If its off by even a little it can shorten tire life on the trailer by a good amount.

 

And thanks for that...the end result is he will have a decent trailer when he's finished.

 

:happy34:

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+1 on using the HF LED light kit. I have it on mine and it is very bright.

I would not go the rout of putting LED bulbs into the stock light housings. You will spend more for good LED bulbs ($25 each) that will still be a compromise over a dedicated LED light.

 

Whether you go 4 wire or 5 wire, it is all personal preference, I would still use an isolator either way so that all of the trailer power is not coming through the bikes ignition switch, It is well documented that the ignition switch is the weak link in the electrical system on these bikes. There are some small isolator/converters out there.

 

When you wire the trailer, run a separate white ground wire to all lights, do not rely on a ground to a steel frame that is going to rust at the connection no matter what you do. 90% of trailer lighting issues are bad ground related. But you still should have that white wire connected to the frame somewhere just so the frame is grounded to the bike.

 

Do a good job checking the wheel alignment, there have been some trailers with so much toe in/out that the tires were bald in under 2K miles. A slight toe in is better than a tow out. Zero toe is best.

 

I also added a high mounted center brake / turn / running light from Super Bright LEDs. It is their 11 LED model It has the 2 outer and center LEDs lit as running lights then the whole thing lights up for Brake lights or half for turn. I am not using the turn option. The stock Light location is so low that someone following close may not see them. I feel that you really need some light right up in the face of who ever is following you.

There are many configurations of this light possible depending on what you decide as to 4 or 5 wire set up.

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Guest tx2sturgis
+1 on using the HF LED light kit. I have it on mine and it is very bright.

I would not go the rout of putting LED bulbs into the stock light housings. You will spend more for good LED bulbs ($25 each) that will still be a compromise over a dedicated LED light.

 

 

Good advice there....LED 1157 bulbs are a joke. Instead, dedicated LED lamp housings, tail, brake, turn, are the way to go.

 

On this kit that Jeff recomends, looking at the listing, it looks like the license bracket is plastic...if so, dont use it. They dont last long wiggling in the breeze and you will lose that plate on the road somewhere! But otherwise it looks like a good kit for the price...

 

:happy34:

 

 

 

 

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Oh speaking of Plates as you see in my picture I moved mine up and center, where they have it, it drags a lot of wind and prevents storage on the Tail End. I used a small 8 LED light stuck up under the lip pointing down to Light it.

 

The 1157 LEDs are a joke compared to the Boat ones, But you still need side lamps if you ask me.

 

How come no one else posts pictures? Oh thats right it takes time. I'd like to see pictures of some of that stuff.

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With the Tag-Along you don't have to invert the axle or remove helper spring. The tongue IS the correct length for the Tag-Along.

 

Some people have used the flat bed trailer from HF and had to do these things. With the Tag-Along you don't have to do these things.

 

-------------------------------------

 

Tires can be run around 25psi.

 

Other things to do :

- put rubber grommets on holes in frame where wires pass thru. I used black garden hose that I had laying around and that did the trick

- check the customer reviews on the HF site....there was something to do to reduce "rattle".

 

Thank you, I did most of the updates. I agree with these tag alongs no need for the axle stuff. Mine pulls perfect even at 75 mph.

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Thank you all for your useful information. However I do have a slight problem understanding the water hose over the rear shackle bolt. I suppose this is the bolt at the rear that goes through and holds the leaf spring in place ? I also suppose that is to reduce rattle noise ?

 

[ATTACH]86732[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]86733[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]86734[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]86735[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]86736[/ATTACH]

 

I still have a little twikking to do to the aluminum plate bolts. Adding chrome acorn nuts. I installed the rectangle LEDs (WallMart $34.00 for two), park breaks show as two out side lights, then break and turn show as full light. I also added an extra small set of LEDs (WallMart $12.00,stick on) inside the outside factory lights to add side view to the brake and turn signals. I soldered them inside the factory light housing. I am thinking of leaving the original regular 1157 bulbs as is. I also added a couple orange reflectors to the the tongue just in front of the trunk. It has good orange side marker lights as well from factory. It is extra bright when breaking and turning. I am satisfied very well so far. This trailer is built like a tank. Very good foundation frame. I added 1/4" eyebolts inside by drilling and bolting them in with some silicone added. There is a heavy metal strap all the way around the underneath of plastic type carrier. Still looking for the correct hub caps to work with the factory wheels ? Thinking about adding bearing buddies to ? Also going to do the rubber over shackle bolt once I make sure that I am thinking of the same place mentioned here ? So far so good, but still looking for a link to the correct chrome plastic hubcaps that would work with bearing buddies or factory caps ? This trailer gets a double A+ from me for the money and small extra amount of upgrades. It pulls very fine. Although I have not checked the tow in factor mentioned here. Once again, thank you all for your input. Also adding a LED battery operated stick on light to the inside top of the lid. You just push it in to turn it on and requires no wiring and very bright. With LEDs this should last for quite some time. Also thinking of adding something to the hinge bolts to carry fishing poles. Just thoughts for now. I also believe my bow case will fit inside of this trailer for early season and light clothing bow hunting in Ohio. Oh Ya, very excited about this little trailer.

Edited by FuzzyRSTD
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I am going to point you to the Detxer Web site for information on the bearings. You have to pack them every 12K or once a year. So what is the point in bearing buddies I say if its not a boat trailer getting dunked? It IS a real good idea to pack them every year or the way we use them every other year. So you know what you have. If you have the factory bearings they will not be any good once removed mine just basically disintegrated. It was about $100 to replace with Timkin. I found sharp shards of metal from the ZERKS in the grease of the stock bearings. I had replaced the Zerks so I dont know what set left the metal.

 

I seriously suppose if you just used the zerk on the inside bearings and packed the outside one carefully, you might get a few years out of the stock bearings.

 

Also the bearing buddies limit the use of hub caps and they stick out so far that they can be knocked off on a curb. So, I DID TAKE MINE OFF!

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Also I would STRONGLY suggest that one reinforce the left tail light mounting bar, if you mount your license tag there. Sometime in your trailer's life in moving it around, manually, you ARE going to lift the tongue too high and the tag will drag. When you do you will weaken the butt weld and sooner or later it will break. Thank goodness a kind cager flagged me down in Conroe, TX to tell me I was dragging a tail light by the wires.........

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OK, so new bearings, no bearing buddy and check the and reinforce the left tail light mounting. Will do soon. Thank you all. Still looking for the hub caps that will work with the 8" factory wheels and the if the shackle referred to is the rear bolt in the leaf springs?

 

:thumbsup2: :think:

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I have my tagged moved as pictured and it does have a LED on it.

I experienced the Tag Drag problem right away and moved it like the next day.

I think it drags way too much wind out there also.

REALLY the only reason they put it these is because it is convenient to meet the legal requirement of lighting it. Its just below the tail light.

 

Anyways I really suggest moving it and lighting it CHEAP mod.

 

But if you do not. I have always used a fishing leader to secure to the plate via the bolt or even a free bolt hole and use a length that lets it drop and rattle and bounce so you know what happened. One end on the plate the other to the trailer somewhere. (Not the bracket that is going to fall off.)

 

I also put a phone number on my plate or an e mail address. They do charge for a replacement a handsome price.

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I got started on the bike wiring. No big deal there. Plenty of room for the isolater and converter from Hopkins. Will finish that up tomorrow. Also did the tongue shimming. Changed the safety chain to a lighter duty and also the the hooks. Will cut to required length when finished wiring the bike.also a photo of my adjustable cooler rack on the front.

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You will really like this trailer. I have had mine a year and just got back from pulling it over 4,000 mile trip through Sturgis, Yellowstone and back through Colorado We ran 85 and 90 a lot of the way and the little trailer pulled great with out any problems

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Bike wiring completed. Tested out great. Next project is to shorten chains to proper length and inspect and re-pack wheel bearings. I bought a new tub of wheel bearing grease for the job. Probably the first tub I have bought in 20 yrs. I was amazed that it was only $3.70 a decent size tub at Advance Auto Parts.

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This evening I adjusted the safety chains and cut off the excess links. I used a smaller welded chain and I also used threaded chain links instead of the S-hooks. I pulled the trailer around to the hard left side then I attached the trailer. I adjusted the right side chain as short as possible with about two links of slack. I then tested the length and it was perfect to capture the trailer and hang the tongue about 3-4 inches off the concrete. The distance to the rear tire with the trailer hanging there is about 20". I repacked both the axle bearings. The left side was to loose and was packed pretty good. I repacked and adjusted correctly. The right side was to tight and had very little grease in it. She is road worthy and ready. I called today about licensing the trailer here in KY. No need here, but to travel to other states it is recommended. Licensing is $60.00 total this yr, then $18.00 every yr after. I really like this little trailer. Very very very pleased with it. I would highly recommend the "TAG ALONG" from Harbor Freight if you are willing to do some small upgrades. A+ from me my friends.

:thumbsup2:

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Going for as ifen voyage today. I loaded it up with 93 lb inside. Toungue weight is 30 lb with ice and four 16 oz water bottles in the big cooler. So total weight of 123 lb all together. Everything secured. Tires inflated to 25 lb each. Just a small trip around local and a little interstate to test her. Report back later. Still looking for chrome hubcaps that will work with the factory rims. Surely someone has bought some that worked ????? HELP !

:think:

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It pulled great. Some 75-80 mph interstate and a lot of curvy road out around Carter Caves. I checked the tires and wheel bearings right after the interstate speeds. Everything was cool and ready for more. I was surprised that the tires where not hardly even warm. The wheel bearing area was cold. I give this trailer an A+. All I need is some weather stripping around the lip to keep the road dust out and the plastic chrome hubcaps.

:thumbsup2:

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I am not getting why people are wanting or feeling the need to add weather strip around the lid. I have not had mine long but I have towed it in serious rain and back azz dusty dirt roads and have not noticed any dust get in nor one drop of water.

 

It seems to me you would be just adding a problem.

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