Winter Project discovered.

Well it looks like I have found my winter project for my Gen1... a small leak in the right fork seal. Used the "film" method twice but it returns. (I know I shudda replaced them when I installed progressives) I figure while I have it apart, I will disconnect the antidives, replace the front tire, & add a superbrace.

How bad is the fork seal replacement on a Gen 1? Also is there a preferred seal to use? I was going OEM dealer but if there is a better one I'm game. Don't want to do this again too soon.

Looking forward to the answers here as well. I too have a fork rebuild this winter on the 83.

Larry

How bad is the fork seal replacement on a Gen 1? Also is there a preferred seal to use? I was going OEM dealer but if there is a better one I'm game. Don't want to do this agin too soon.

A PITA, like any other fork seal change out.

Use OEM, as at least some of the aftermarket ones don't fit properly & how many seals do you want to try (buy).

Not that bad of a job, did both of mine in an evening. I did not remove any of the fairing when I did mine. Kind of a tight fit for your hands to remove and install the air connections, but it can be done. You need to make a tool to hold the inside portion of the fork in order to remove the bolt from the bottom end. The whole procedure is covered quite well if you do a search here on replacing the fork seals.

We just did a set on an 86 tonight. Was not a bad job. Took a few hours and we didn't need any special tools. Used an air gun to get the bottom bolt out and a broom handle to hold it in place to put it back together. Forks came out easy. All in all worth doing yourself. Like Rocket said.. buy the OEM seals. Usually a couple of dollars more but they work.

We just did a set on an 86 tonight. Was not a bad job. Took a few hours and we didn't need any special tools. Used an air gun to get the bottom bolt out and a broom handle to hold it in place to put it back together. Forks came out easy. All in all worth doing yourself. Like Rocket said.. buy the OEM seals. Usually a couple of dollars more but they work.

Thanks Golf&Venture for hooking me up with a used superbrace for my MKI

That's one thing off my list, I wish the antidive blockoff plates from your MKII would have fit as well!

Well, after cleaning & even adding a little brake fluid to the seal it looks like it finally gave out. So as much as I have tried to push it off, & as much as I am terrified of doing them, looks like I have no choice. I even got the idea of swapping the fork with my parts bike but when I looked at those seals, I think they were WORSE!

I actually feel the bike a little wierd wnd I am slightly leaning & hit a bump in the road. I suspect the fluid in that fork is WAY low!

Now to order the parts. At least I have my other bike to ride in the interum

Thanks Muffinman for the parts list you gave me at the M&E, saved me a lot of time.

good luck on the seal re-placement keep us posted

good luck on the seal re-placement keep us posted

Thanks. I'm going to try to pick some brains here. My intention is to do the 1st tube & then videotape the process on the 2nd tube...unless I chicken out! http://astrafamily.com/images/smilies/EmoteChickendance.gif

I didn't even need to remove the fork stanchions from the triple clamp to replace the seals and dust covers. It can be done with them still on the bike.

Gives you a built-in firm grip on the tubes when you use the sliders as a slide hammer ... carefully

Either way, that was 13 000 miles ago and they have been fine since.

I didn't even need to remove the fork stanchions from the triple clamp to replace the seals and dust covers. It can be done with them still on the bike.

 

Gives you a built-in firm grip on the tubes when you use the sliders as a slide hammer ... carefully

 

Either way, that was 13 000 miles ago and they have been fine since.

What did you use to press the seal in place? Most videos I see show some kind of tube being used as a slide. Can the seals be seated without the stanchions being in the lowers forks?

What did you use to press the seal in place? Most videos I see show some kind of tube being used as a slide. Can the seals be seated without the stanchions being in the lowers forks?

Usually a piece of 2" waterpipe is recommended.

I have a socket that fitted very nicely, so I used that and a rubber mallet to tap them home.

They can be fitted then the bushes inserted past the seal lips, and you can clearly do it without damaging the lips. You have to use plenty of fork oil for lubricant and go very carefully.

The reason the waterpipe is recommended is that the correct way to do the job is to put the seal on the tube, then add the lower bushings avoiding any chance of damaging the lips ... Then you need the tube to go over the fork tubes and reach the seals to press them home.

I'm not necessarily recommending my method, I'm just saying that it can be done successfully.

I guess I could get a Motion Pro seal driver which splits in half

http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0138.jpg

Then I can drive the seal in when it's assembled. Does anyone happen to know the size of the MK1 forks? I THINK I recall reading 40mm

I guess I could get a Motion Pro seal driver which splits in half

 

http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0138.jpg

 

Then I can drive the seal in when it's assembled. Does anyone happen to know the size of the MK1 forks? I THINK I recall reading 40mm

Looks like a useful tool.

For what it's worth, the seals I used (and I can't remember the brand) went in really easily.

They needed very little in the way of encouragement. I know not all brands are the same, and some may fit tighter than mine did.

Yes, I believe they are 40 mm tubes .... I wish they were 50 mm

OEM...and if you even think about trying an aftermarket we will have to slap you so hard that the earth could shift off it's axis. Been there done that ! OEM all the way on the seals.

OEM...and if you even think about trying an aftermarket we will have to slap you so hard that the earth could shift off it's axis. Been there done that ! OEM all the way on the seals.

There has been much discussion about aftermarket fork seals, and some have complained that they do not always fit well.

Mine are not OEM, and they fit just fine but I can't remember the brand. I believe they were Pyramid Seals.

I would probably buy OEM next time rather than take a chance, but these were in the trunk when I bought the bike.

No KIC, although I might get lucky, I wouldn't risk using aftermarket seals. I ONLY want to do this job ONCE

Here's a question for everyone who has done seals. The Gen 1 (and ONLY the GEN 1) has 40 mm fork tube. There are a lot of fork seal drivers out there, but NONE come in 40 mm. They have 39mm & 40 mm but no 40mm. If I am to replace the seals without removing the tubes from the triple trees, I need the driver to split in half SO...

What did you guys use to drive in the seals? a 41mm?

This would not be an issue but I REALLY don't want to take apart the faring (AGAIN)!

Here's a question for everyone who has done seals. The Gen 1 (and ONLY the GEN 1) has 40 mm fork tube. There are a lot of fork seal drivers out there, but NONE come in 40 mm. They have 39mm & 40 mm but no 40mm. If I am to replace the seals without removing the tubes from the triple trees, I need the driver to split in half SO...

 

What did you guys use to drive in the seals? a 41mm?

 

This would not be an issue but I REALLY don't want to take apart the faring (AGAIN)!

I cheated and fitted the seals to the sliders before putting the sliders back on the fork tubes.

This does mean that you have to manipulate the bushes, etc, past the seal lips. There is some risk doing this, but I got away with it

I also think you should be able to get the forks out of the triple tree with the fairing in place. I haven't tried that.

*** Edit .... I am working from memory here and it was one of the first jobs I ever did on the VR. I THINK I did it that way. I do know that I do not have a split seal driver and I have never removed the forks ... I did it with them on the bike.

Ok well I ordered all the parts

All OEM Yamaha parts

NL-23145-00-00 1NL-23145-00-00 OIL SEAL

26H-23144-00-00 26H-23144-00-00 DUST SEAL

3JJ-23125-00-00 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL SLIDE

3JJ-23171-00-00 3JJ-23171-00-00 FRONT FORK PISTON

$138.28

& the 41mm seal driver.

"Motion Pro (08-0489) 41mm Ringer Fork Seal Driver"

$40.76

I just hope their 41mm driver isn't too big and it hits the outer tube.

Total shipped $179.04 Just need to pick up a qt of 7wt oil and let the FUN begin!

Well all the fork parts I ordered on the 18th arrived today. Pretty fast shipping, all OEM Yamaha. The price was less that the dealership & they did not have them in stock.

Dealer wanted $185 plus tax & that's with a military discount. I got them here for $124.70 plus $13.58 shipping

If anybody is interested, the website is http://www.powersportsplus.com/

Well it appears I will have no winter project. I was going to do the fork seals replace the front tire, disconnect the antidives, & add a superbrace.

Well

because my front tire was making whirring noises, I replaced it.

because the fork leak became huge...I did them this weekend.

because Golf & Venture let me know about his Superbrace, I picked it up.

The only thing I didn't do yet was disconnect the antidives. I wanted to wait until I tested the forks with th 5wt oil before I change anything else up front.

Hell I even built a trailer, installed a CB, & wired up the trailer tail light converter.

Now all I have left to do this winter but RIDE! (I even treated myself to a VentureRider Flag!)

I want to thank everybody who helped me out with either parts or technical help (there are a lot of you guys) You made these projects a BREEZE!

Did you do the video Andy?

Its intimidating yet this thread makes it sound simple enough.

Did you do the video Andy?

Its intimidating yet this thread makes it sound simple enough.

Ray

My son will be putting the video together for me this weekend to uploaded it to You Tube. I will post a link as soon as it's done.

The video does not show the removal of the top fork caps it's like doing progressives (followed a write up for that here) nor removing calipers the front wheel etc.

It starts with the wheel off, splitting the upper & lower forks, & reassembly of the forks.

I have never done them before & I kept putting them off because I was apprehensive.

When I was left with no choice, I quickly found out it was very simple. I took my time with the process & was done in 2 days (I could done the job it 4 hours but I was lazy)

There are some MUST have tools that you need like the long 18mm hex socket (harbor freight) but I also needed an impact gun. Not because the hex nut that hold the top & bottom forks together was tight, but because it spins INSIDE the fork with a hand rachet.

I REALLY should have done this when I did the progressives!