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Thread: Hannigan Rear Brake Upgrade

  1. #46
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    Thumbs up

    KEEP GOING !!

  2. #47
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    Don't forget to put your seat belt on for that first test ride, we dont want you throwing yourself through the windshield first time you hit the brakes.
    Jay
    Patriot Guard Rider #18267 http://PGRMICHIGAN.org
    '01 RSV......08 Hannigan RSV, 69' Buick GS 400 Conv.
    " Never ride faster than your angel can fly"

  3. #48
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    At long last I have functional rear brakes again!!! They are still the stock Hannigan setup but as soon as my slotted and cross drilled rotors are in I will finish the job. Besides I want to see what kind of difference, if any, the master cylinder makes on the setup!

    This project has fought me every step of the way!! I had one heck of a time getting the new master cylinder bled! My vacuum pump wasn't cutting it! It would draw fluid from the resovoir but then the plastic line would colapse from the vacuum, and as soon as I pulled the line from the bleeder the fluid would surge back into the resovoir. Finally pressure bled the system by reversing my vacuum pump to a pressure pump . Dropped my new ss line into the can of brake fluid and used the vacuum pump on the rear bleeder to fill the line and then screwed the line on to the master cylinder and viola, the rear brakes work again!!!

    I'm sure there is more air still trapped in the system so I plan on bleeding the entire system again later on tonight. I only bled the one rear wheel caliper, but the bike is jacked up with that wheel up in the air so it was the high point. Maybe sometime during the week I'll take it out for a test spin to see how effective they are before converting the rear calipers and rotors...

  4. #49
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    Way to go Bob, glad your nightmare is almost over

  5. #50
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    OK so I finaslly got Sexi running after charging up the battery and took it for a spin with the new master cylinder and the old brakes. I was ghoping for a little better performance from the new master but I am disappointed!! I sure have a lot tighter pedal but I still can't lock up the rear brakes much at all. When I stopped and held the pedal tight and tried moving in first it would not hold the rear brakes locked up. It sure bogged the engine down but I could not stall it out with higher RPM's. Sooo, I'm patiently waiting for my rotors to come in, they just got shipped today. God knows if I'll ever see my EBC's as tnhey are back ordered but the ones that got shipped are american made slotted and cross drilled. I have 2 complete sets of calipers loaded with pads ready to go, andf plenty of brake fluid left to bleed the calipers once I mount them...

  6. #51
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    wow, that's not right is it.. all I can say since I did the hannigan change over I now can lock
    up the rear of the trike with there new mod.
    sorry to hear that all this hard work is not making you happy yet.
    I have been really hoping that this would work for you my friend.
    Jeff

  7. #52
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    Bob, I know you have looked at this thread, I think the talk about how caliper size and master cylinder size interact may be of help to you. I think the new master may be sending reduced pressure but more volume to the brembo's . How does the new master cyl. size compare to what is used in a stock Honda CRX brake system on a car ?
    Jay
    Patriot Guard Rider #18267 http://PGRMICHIGAN.org
    '01 RSV......08 Hannigan RSV, 69' Buick GS 400 Conv.
    " Never ride faster than your angel can fly"

  8. #53
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    Yes Jay, that thought did cross my mind that I may have gone overboard on the diameter! I went with a 1 1/8 bore 1" stroke and I probably should have went with a 7/8 bore 1 1/2" stroke but I was concerned with delivering the most volume with minimum travel. I'm sure once I get twice the pad area on bigger and thicker rotors things will be the way I want it! Right now it has about the same braking power as before I started. They have about the same braking power as the front brakes do which also leaves a lot to be desired but I'm sure when I switch to the R1 calipers that will also improve. I did last nite's write up for someone that wanted to know if just the master cylinder made a difference and the answer is no, just a firmer pedal with less travel, which is to be expected...

  9. #54
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    OK, finally have the rear brakes installed! Finally got the new rear brake lines and put it all together, and bled the calipers. Tried the pedal and it went to the floor!! Tried pumping them up but nothing! Then I noticed the puddles!! Seems the speed bleeders I bought weren't long enough! So, put the stock bleeders in and it's good to go! Tried them ojut after work today and still not able to lock them up although there is definately an improvement. Sooo, I'm thinking that the 1 1/8 master cylinder is overkill as the pedal is way up at the top! It's simple physice, with the same pound force on the pedal, the smaller the area the greater the PSI (pounds per square inch). For example 100 poundsd on an area of 1 square inch equals 100 PSI whereas 100 pounds on 1/2 square inch equals 200 PSI! Once the pistons push the pads against the rotor you don't need/get any more volume of fluid, the rest is all pressure against the rotor. Fluid is uncompressable so no more oil flows but instead yopu build up pressure!!

    So, bottom line, spend another $80 on a smaller bore master. Carbon One tried a 5/8 bore on his and found out it does not deliver enough volume of fluid to move the pistons. I'm going to try a 3/4 inch bore and hope there is enough pedal travel but I'm thinking there should be. Carbon One is using a 13/16 and he was trying to improve his, so I'm thinking 3/4 should be the charm!

    Oh, well, at least I can ride and not have to deal with squeeling rear brakes! Pictures to follow...

    BTW does anybody want a set used of stock rotors and calipers??? I'll send you the set for $50 shipped...

  10. #55
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    Great news bob !! glad you can ride now

  11. #56
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    BTW does anybody want a set used of stock rotors and calipers??? I'll send you the set for $50 shipped...[/QUOTE]

    Put em on ebay, I'm sure someone will want them.
    Jay
    Patriot Guard Rider #18267 http://PGRMICHIGAN.org
    '01 RSV......08 Hannigan RSV, 69' Buick GS 400 Conv.
    " Never ride faster than your angel can fly"

  12. #57
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    Just got my 3/4 inch bore master cylinder today. The smaller OD solves a few of the clearance issues I had! Can't wait to get it modified and in to the system! Hope the bore isn't too small, and I will have to go with a 13/16 bore...

  13. #58
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    OK, tonight I got the 3/4 inch bore master cylinder installed and what a difference!!! I can definately lock up the rear brakes with little effort now, almost too easy! The pedal travel is waay too far though. Sooo, I'm thinking for my purposes and desires, a 7/8 bore is going to be the definitave one.

    Bottom line, for those who wish to follow in my footsteps, I recommend a 13/16 for power or 7/8 for a firmer pedal. 3/4 is just a tad too much and the 1 1/8 was waaaay too big with minimal pedal travel but you really have to stand on them to lock them up.

    I'm not going to be in a big rush to shell out yet another $80 for the 7/8 master but will sometime this summer. The amount of pedal travel is just a tad scarry to me. I still have the front brakes to do yet with ss lines, a 14mm master, and R1 calipers and EBC shoes. I have everything acquired butr have to clean up and paint the calipers, and clean up the master a tad but it is pretty good looking already. There's always something!

    The next project after the brakes is to quiet down the exhaust. I want Gold Wing type Quiet!! I'm looking at a few possibilities for mufflers that will work...

  14. #59
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    Your Done ?


    Way to go!
    So glad ya got it all figure out.

    pictures , pictures pictures please

    Jeff

  15. #60
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    Jay
    Patriot Guard Rider #18267 http://PGRMICHIGAN.org
    '01 RSV......08 Hannigan RSV, 69' Buick GS 400 Conv.
    " Never ride faster than your angel can fly"

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