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Hannigan Rear Brake Upgrade


bongobobny

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wow, that's not right is it.:think:. all I can say since I did the hannigan change over I now can lock

up the rear of the trike with there new mod.

sorry to hear that all this hard work is not making you happy yet.:cool:

I have been really hoping that this would work for you my friend.:080402gudl_prv:

Jeff

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Bob, I know you have looked at this thread, I think the talk about how caliper size and master cylinder size interact may be of help to you. I think the new master may be sending reduced pressure but more volume to the brembo's . How does the new master cyl. size compare to what is used in a stock Honda CRX brake system on a car ?

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Yes Jay, that thought did cross my mind that I may have gone overboard on the diameter! I went with a 1 1/8 bore 1" stroke and I probably should have went with a 7/8 bore 1 1/2" stroke but I was concerned with delivering the most volume with minimum travel. I'm sure once I get twice the pad area on bigger and thicker rotors things will be the way I want it! Right now it has about the same braking power as before I started. They have about the same braking power as the front brakes do which also leaves a lot to be desired but I'm sure when I switch to the R1 calipers that will also improve. I did last nite's write up for someone that wanted to know if just the master cylinder made a difference and the answer is no, just a firmer pedal with less travel, which is to be expected...

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, finally have the rear brakes installed! Finally got the new rear brake lines and put it all together, and bled the calipers. Tried the pedal and it went to the floor!! Tried pumping them up but nothing! Then I noticed the puddles!! Seems the speed bleeders I bought weren't long enough! So, put the stock bleeders in and it's good to go! Tried them ojut after work today and still not able to lock them up although there is definately an improvement. Sooo, I'm thinking that the 1 1/8 master cylinder is overkill as the pedal is way up at the top! It's simple physice, with the same pound force on the pedal, the smaller the area the greater the PSI (pounds per square inch). For example 100 poundsd on an area of 1 square inch equals 100 PSI whereas 100 pounds on 1/2 square inch equals 200 PSI! Once the pistons push the pads against the rotor you don't need/get any more volume of fluid, the rest is all pressure against the rotor. Fluid is uncompressable so no more oil flows but instead yopu build up pressure!!

 

So, bottom line, spend another $80 on a smaller bore master. Carbon One tried a 5/8 bore on his and found out it does not deliver enough volume of fluid to move the pistons. I'm going to try a 3/4 inch bore and hope there is enough pedal travel but I'm thinking there should be. Carbon One is using a 13/16 and he was trying to improve his, so I'm thinking 3/4 should be the charm!

 

Oh, well, at least I can ride and not have to deal with squeeling rear brakes! Pictures to follow...

 

BTW does anybody want a set used of stock rotors and calipers??? I'll send you the set for $50 shipped...

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Just got my 3/4 inch bore master cylinder today. The smaller OD solves a few of the clearance issues I had! Can't wait to get it modified and in to the system! Hope the bore isn't too small, and I will have to go with a 13/16 bore...

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK, tonight I got the 3/4 inch bore master cylinder installed and what a difference!!! I can definately lock up the rear brakes with little effort now, almost too easy! The pedal travel is waay too far though. Sooo, I'm thinking for my purposes and desires, a 7/8 bore is going to be the definitave one.

 

Bottom line, for those who wish to follow in my footsteps, I recommend a 13/16 for power or 7/8 for a firmer pedal. 3/4 is just a tad too much and the 1 1/8 was waaaay too big with minimal pedal travel but you really have to stand on them to lock them up.

 

I'm not going to be in a big rush to shell out yet another $80 for the 7/8 master but will sometime this summer. The amount of pedal travel is just a tad scarry to me. I still have the front brakes to do yet with ss lines, a 14mm master, and R1 calipers and EBC shoes. I have everything acquired butr have to clean up and paint the calipers, and clean up the master a tad but it is pretty good looking already. There's always something!

 

The next project after the brakes is to quiet down the exhaust. I want Gold Wing type Quiet!! I'm looking at a few possibilities for mufflers that will work...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I just got done installing the 7/8" master cylinder and tried it out and finally I am satrisfied!! The pedal has minimal travel, and I can lock up the rear end easily but have to deliberately do it! I think the 13/16" might be the absolute perfect master for a little more pedal travel but slightly less effort to stop, akin to power brakes but then it might be too easy to lock up the rear. The 3/4" master had just a tad too much pedal travel to my liking and it was almost way too easy to lock 'em up! Maybe some other year if I ever find a 13/16" master cylinder I'll try it out but for now the 7/8" works perfect for me as is! I got a good deal on it, $63 shipped as opposed to the $79 I was paying from Jeggs and/ or Summit as well as JC Whitney.

 

I know, you all want pictures! Well, I took several at various times and they are scattered on 3 different cameras, so I will try to put a few together at least of the rear brakes instelled and the master installed. In the mean time I have calipers and rotors as well as the 3/4" master cylinder I'll sell as a package deal if anyone wants to do their own update. Anybody at the International is more than welcome to try them out if you want.

 

Next project, upgrasding the front brakes to R1's and 14mm master cylinder and ss lines, but probably not until this October...:sign woo hoo:

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