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Has anyone towed using one of these?


cabreco

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http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/file/n3737786/%21B8rcin%21CWk~%24%28KGrHqYOKkQEzJf5S%2Ci%2CBM3vM%29%29dBg~~_3.jpg

 

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/file/n3737786/Savage_MCCarrier1.jpg

 

I was thinking about building one in welding class as a project.

Better than having the expense of a trailer (reg & annual personal property tax) &

it would get me out of a jam if my bike dies. Not for long distance hauls but emergencies.

 

What do you think?

Would you think it could handle the weight of a 1st Gen?

Can a 1st Gen be towed rear wheel down?

 

Construction: 1/4" Powder-Coated Steel

Weight:26 lbs. with tie-down bar 21 lbs. without

Dimensions: 30”(L) x 2”(W) x 20”(H)

Tie-Down Bar Dimensions:36”(L)x 2”(W) x 1”(H)

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I would not use one. First off there is no drive chain that could be quickly dis-connected.

 

Also how many people would be needed, to lift the front wheel on / off the mount position. Remember, these bikes are heavy...........

 

IMO this is looking for damage to occur, by tipping over while lifting, or possible driveline.

 

:2cents:

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I would not use one. First off there is no drive chain that could be quickly dis-connected.

 

Also how many people would be needed, to lift the front wheel on / off the mount position. Remember, these bikes are heavy...........

 

IMO this is looking for damage to occur, by tipping over while lifting, or possible driveline.

 

:2cents:

 

The ramp would offset the need to lift the bike. The ramp would be between 3 & 4 feet so it would be a gentle slope to the cradle thus no tipping risk, but the driveline is something I am concered with. Is the oil in the rear wheel sufficient lubrication for towing?

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I would not use one. First off there is no drive chain that could be quickly dis-connected.

 

Also how many people would be needed, to lift the front wheel on / off the mount position. Remember, these bikes are heavy...........

 

IMO this is looking for damage to occur, by tipping over while lifting, or possible driveline.

 

:2cents:

 

I think towing causes bearing damage in the tranny because of no oil pressure without the engine running.

Someone will know for sure !

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Doesn't the tranny sit in the oil ... at least partially? Does the tranny actually get lubricated by oil pressure?

 

How could towing cause damage to the driveline/differential? ... it's much the same as a car. It seems to work fine when riding it... what's the difference towing?

 

What about building a dolly similar to what a tow-truck operator would use that lifts the rear wheel off the gound.... then there is no "action" on the bike's components.

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I think towing causes bearing damage in the tranny because of no oil pressure without the engine running.

Someone will know for sure !

 

That's exactly what I'm concerned about!

We need a Venture Guru to answer this.

 

Thus my drive chain comment, that can be easily removed, isolating the engine / tranny from the rear wheel. Who would go to the effort, to pull the driveshaft out of the swingarm, to tow this way.

 

I have seen the results of a tranfer case on a veh re-engaging from neutral at speed, from hitting a bump. The veh was being towed & the transfer case exploded. This tow operator did not dis-connect the driveshaft, to protect the driveline.

 

This is your call, but I would not put a Venture on this. :2cents:

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Extra weight transfered to rear wheel.

BAcking up will have a longer arm which will not turn like a trailer .

Even forward turns would create a large swinging arm .

Im sorry if it doesnt make sense. back to geomotry.

The rear wheels of the towing vehicle is the fulcrum, from the fulcrum to rear bike tire is the arm. There will be too much side force created and may damage mor ethan the tire.

 

if you ever see a tractor trailer making a sharp turn keep notice of the rearward wheels. They wont turn as fast and actually slide on the pavement creating large side force

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I should clarify that this would be for emergency towing only. If I break down locally, the wife or my kid could toss this in the pickup & come get me. With a trailer, I would most definitley have to leave the bike & get it myself.

 

So if it will screw up the drivetrain, of course it wouldn't be worth it. If local towing were ok then it's worth making. The reason I ask is this is the 1st shaft drive I've owned, so I know squat about them. My old CB750 I would have no issues.

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Driveline issues aside; I think you will need a ramp substantially longer then three or four feet if the front wheel is going to be as high as the one pictured. As several have mentioned, these motos are very heavy and quite difficult to push up a ramp AND keep it from tipping. A short ramp of 3-4 feet would be fairly steep even if the wheel needed to be raised just one foot.

 

I've not done it but perhaps figure out a way to tow it rear wheel first, ie. back it up the ramp. Lock the handlebars straight ahead. Good Luck!

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Well Why didnt you says so.

I want one too now. For emergency towing just to get back to the shop or home. For some reason I pictured you towing it cross country to maintanance day or something similar.

Simple scenario. You break down, wife has the minivan, she can come by and pick you up quicker than a tow truck. You would have to be real careful and use high quality straps to lock the handlebars in place

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personal experience....

Tried one somewhat like that a few years back when I had my 1300 1st Gen. Mine had a screw jack type of assembly which I could lower to the ground, run the front wheel into the chock and then raise the wheel off the ground using the screw jack assembly.

Simply stated, it was less than satisfying. Bike would not track. Found out the upright was a few degrees off. This caused the bike to lean adversely effecting tracking and increasing tire wear.

Sent it back to the manufacturer detailing the problems.

Was really surprised when they contacted me and acknowledged that the welding jig had been misaligned and causing the problems I addressed with them.

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Ok so definitely a trailer will be better.

I am going to get one, or make one when I move from Va to Tenn. (Tn doesn't have an annual personal property tax)

 

Maybe a better design cradle would be better IF the drivetrain is able to tow (rear wheel down) without issues. Something like this maybe?

 

http://i8.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/0e/66/820c_12.JPG

 

http://i15.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/0e/66/8423_12.JPG

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While it might work fine in a pinch the only problem I see is unless your about 8 foot tall when you ride it up the ramp and into the chock is the chock going to hold the bike while you try and get off cause I dont think your feet are going to come close to touching the ground. I would hate to trust my wife for balance while I tried to dismount.

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While it might work fine in a pinch the only problem I see is unless your about 8 foot tall when you ride it up the ramp and into the chock is the chock going to hold the bike while you try and get off cause I dont think your feet are going to come close to touching the ground. I would hate to trust my wife for balance while I tried to dismount.

 

VERY good point!

I had a fun time getting my cb out of the bed using ramps & the wife & kid ONLY!

 

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/file/n2934428/0511011853.jpg

 

So a chock up high is out of the question. It has to be more like my 2nd example.

Grabs the wheel while in the ground, secure it then raise it.

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Guest tx2sturgis

I have seen these contraptions but I think they are for lightweight bikes, especially dirt bikes and small street bikes.

 

 

I see 3 problems trying to use that thing with a 700-900 pound bike:

 

 

1: Getting the front wheel up there. (ramps might work, or they might not)

 

2: Attaching the straps (while holding the bike up!) so they dont pull intermittently on the frame or bars or fairing as the towed bike articulates up and down on bumps. (Look carefully at the pics, then imagine the bike traveling up and down in an arc)

 

3: Possible damage to the front suspension components including the bearings in the steering head, especially if you have to make a hard stop. (front end parts and labor arent cheap!)

 

If you find a successful way to make this work, post some pics!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
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Cabreco "Maybe a better design cradle would be better IF the drivetrain is able to tow (rear wheel down) without issues. Something like this maybe?"

 

That looks dooable if it can take the extra weight??? there's a big difference between weight of a vmax and an RSV. LOL

 

Other thing i would change is the tie down staps... They are totally in the wrong position and wouldn't prevent the bike from just flopping over. If a bar with looped ends(for straps) was welded to the end of the cradel that is pictured sitting on the ground, and stuck out about 16" on each side, it might just work? Would have to be Beefed up in my opinion, to work on a RSV.

 

Of course this is assuming you don't have a flat back tire.. or locked tranny?

 

The best overall solution is a trailer...

 

Now a light weight trailer, consisting of basically channel steel, axel, tongue and 15" fendered tires would be the ticket if the bikes in one piece... Ill see if i can find the link... they make one that works for jet skis, snow mobiles, motorcycles four wheelers

 

If its in pieces, you'll need a trailer with a bed...

 

Guess it all depends on the condition of the bike:confused24:

 

PS

if you do go the cradel route, add the bar as i suggested and make sure the straps are attached to the bottom of the forks... This way it will allow your front suspension to work and protect your bike...

 

Good point Tx2sturgis!

Edited by CaptainJoe
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Tried something similar many years ago with a Honda 500 Four. Didn't work out well at all loading, unloading, or pulling the bike. :no-no-no:

 

You would be much better off having towing coverage on your insurance for a heavy bike like a Venture, or just rent a trailer if and when you need it. :whistling:

 

Just my opinion. :backinmyday:

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