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Shindengen Regulator/Rectifier


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Today I removed the old R/R and replaced it with the newer Shindengen Mosfet R/R (www.roadstercycle.com) . The only modification I made is to put it on the left upper side of the fairing, rather than the original location below the left footrest. I removed the old tuner and cassette tape from the left fairing, and will form a lockable storage box from ABS black textured plastic in its place and use the original lockable Yamaha lid and form a piece of ABS plastic to cover the old holes. (Thanks to SaltyDog in AR for the detailed help and description on his modification.) I have attached a couple of photos showing the old/new Regulator Rectifier, and also a picture of the location of the new R/R. The original connector plugs to the stator were pretty nasty, so I cut it off, soldered the wires from the new R/R (yellow wires in photo) to the white stator wires, then put heat shrink tubing on them for good measure.

 

Couple that with an Odyssey PC680MJ gel battery, along with an Argus "Battery Bug" and I am livin' life in "high cotton."

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Aren't you concerned with it overheating in the location you mounted it? I have always thought that since excess voltage is grounded through the mounting, it tends to heat up, thus the cooling fins. Inside your fairing has very, very little moving air, probable none at all. Just my 2 cents.

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If it had been similar to the older model, then I would agree with you MasterGuns. However, these new ones are series controlled, rather than the old shunt type. They run much cooler, and is a 50A rated device. The old shunt types consumed more energy than the bike was using, therefore dumped a LOT into the heatsink, which would literally burn your hand if you touched it. The only exception I am aware of is IF you had lots of powered stuff on your bike (heated vests, grips, XMAS lights, etc.), then it wouldn't be as hot as the load would be higher, therefore it would shunt less 'trons' and actually run cooler.

 

The newer types have extremely low resistance while in a conducting state, which results in a significantly lower dissipated power. Last I looked the ABS melting temp was above 185 degrees F, so if I note that it starts to warp, then I might look at relocating it somewhere else. Also, the ram air will circulate through the fairing since I removed that old ducting, so hopefully that will help.

 

Of course, after a 3 day ride and my R/R has melted through the bottom of my fairing, because I thought I was smarter than the Laws of Physics, then I will change my tune. I will not, however, ever admit to it !!:big-grin-emoticon:

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This newer MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier doesn't have the higher internal resistance that the old selenium diode rectifiers had. It can pass the un-needed current to gound and back to the stator without building up a heat load. These newer R/R can run without any extra air flow, they barely get warm during operation. They are rated at 50 amps and according to their own charts don't need additonal cooling at 25 amps and 40 degrees C. So our low output charging systems barely put a load on them.

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