Jump to content
IGNORED

Clutch, Clutch basket, Clutch bearing?


Recommended Posts

Soooo, another silly clutch question. With the bike idling, I hear a knock from the engine, that goes away if I pull in the clutch. Sometimes, when you turn the bike off, it is a very hard knock. Obviously need to look at my clutch. So question is, does anyone know if this is indicative of a clutch bearing, clutch basket, or just a bad clutch? And from reading some of the tech articles, do I need to pull the engine to replace a clutch bearing? I am a little confused on that one. The bike is an 86 Venture Royale, with about 70,000 miles, if that matters.

Thanks everyone for the input.

Kevin

Edited by puppy
more information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Undo the Clutch Cover, undo the six Bolts holding the Spring in criss-cross Pattern, take the Clutch Pressure Plate out, undo the old Bearing, press the new Bearing in, push the mushrom shaped Part back to the left Side of the Bike, reverse disassembling Procedure. Takes 20 Minutes to half an Hour. Hardest Part is to scrape the old Gasket off the Clutch Cover. Plan on using another 30 Minutes for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:sign yeah that:

 

You want to speed up the gasket cleanup stop by a NAPA parts store and get a can of their "Gasket Remover" in a blue can. Great stuff for the old baked on stuborn stuff. About falls off after 5 minutes. I've used it alot.

 

BUT.....the down side (maybe) is it will also remove the clear coat on the cover really quick. If your covers are in great shape you would want to mask them off with a aluminum foil before you spray it on. If they are yellow looking you are ahead of the game and will get the old coating off nicely. Polish them up and they can go back on naked or you can give them another coat of clear coat. Duplicolor (NAPA) has the high heat engine paint also.

 

If you want to go full out check the classifieds for Skydoc_17's listing for his clutch upgrade kit. That has the new springs, the full disk to replace the half disk and the gasket you will need for the cover. I mean......as long as you have to take it apart anyway. Nice kit. Made a great improvement in mine. :2cents:

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the pressure plate bearing does nothing till you pull the clutch lever. So if IT stops noises when you pull.... That's not likely it. You have the typical rattle these heavy assemblies have. There is No replacable bearing in the main basket. Just a cross drilled bronze bushing. Bushng wears= wobble wobble and the plates also do a bit or noise as well.

Edited by jasonm.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carb synch WAY off will do this as well. My clutch was LOUD at idle like yours and quieted with the clutch pulled in. I replaced the 6003 and no change so was concerned about the inner clutch bearing being gone. With a good carb synch all clutch noise dissapeared. Seems one cylinder was doing all the work at idle and upsetting the clutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
the pressure plate bearing does nothing till you pull the clutch lever. So if IT stops noises when you pull.... That's not likely it. You have the typical rattle these heavy assemblies have. There is No replacable bearing in the main basket. Just a cross drilled bronze bushing. Bushng wears= wobble wobble and the plates also do a bit or noise as well.

 

My clutch has been Slipping and has the Noise. I pulled it apart last night and found that the Bearing #6003 was in perfect shape. The clutch basket (the outside one with the gear on it) has a Wobble. I'm sure that when the clutch is pulled in it puts pressure on that housing and elimanates much of the wobble and noise.

 

So how much wobble is normal???????

 

Also I found two little balls that are aluminum, they are about the same size as them two marks that the plates are aligned to, about 1/32 diameter.... ????? they were setting on the fingers.

 

I purchased all new steel and full friction plates along with the heavier spring from Skydoc but don't want to install them until I get an answer about the wobble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom

 

Mine sounded REALLY bad when I bought the bike last fall.

 

When I put my Barnett kit in I noticed a "significant" amount of wobble and was convinced this was a big problem and the cause of the noise. Others on the board said some is normal and not to worry about it.

 

Full carb rebuild and synch has eliminated 90% of the noise. I also had to put a small z bend in the linkage arm connecting right to left carbs otherwise I couldn't get the butterflys close evenly on the bench. I'm betting this was a big part of the noise with one being much more open than the others.

 

I think my carb synch is still a little off, tubing with ATF doesn't work too good; but no time to build a better sych tool yet. Still not as quiet as I might like but not bad for a 22 year old beast with almost 70K miles. I'm averaging 39MPG so can't be too far off the mark.

 

PS saw your pics of the trunk mod. We do have the exact same color scheme. First time I've seen another one like it.

 

Wally

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom

 

I also had to put a small z bend in the linkage arm connecting right to left carbs otherwise I couldn't get the butterflys close evenly on the bench. I'm betting this was a big part of the noise with one being much more open than the others.

 

 

Wally

 

Grisolm1, not to get off topic, but when I thought my bar was too long, I found my sync screw tabs bent. Then bar fit fine. Below is from post I had a while ago.

 

After much discussion, and studying over and over again of my setup, I finally realized that the L-shape link that the #3 sync screw pushes against was bent/angled. Upon straightening, long link fit at about 1/2 depth of the #3 sync screw.

 

Thank you all for your assistance, would not have figured it out without your help.

 

Now I just have to put the rest of this beast back together

 

Again Thanx

Brian

 

:big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

 

Attached Thumbnailsattachment.php?attachmentid=43824&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1271003732 attachment.php?attachmentid=43825&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1271003732

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom

 

Mine sounded REALLY bad when I bought the bike last fall.

 

When I put my Barnett kit in I noticed a "significant" amount of wobble and was convinced this was a big problem and the cause of the noise. Others on the board said some is normal and not to worry about it.

 

Full carb rebuild and synch has eliminated 90% of the noise. I also had to put a small z bend in the linkage arm connecting right to left carbs otherwise I couldn't get the butterflys close evenly on the bench. I'm betting this was a big part of the noise with one being much more open than the others.

 

I think my carb synch is still a little off, tubing with ATF doesn't work too good; but no time to build a better sych tool yet. Still not as quiet as I might like but not bad for a 22 year old beast with almost 70K miles. I'm averaging 39MPG so can't be too far off the mark.

 

PS saw your pics of the trunk mod. We do have the exact same color scheme. First time I've seen another one like it.

 

Wally

 

 

I also just got the Carbs Overhauled and Snyced, Lifters set, new Fuel Filter, Plugs, Wires and Ends. Noise was still there. Mines got just short of 120,000 miles. Gas milage was up a little but when I checked it going 65 against a 25 mph head wind I only got 36 with it. I purchased the Shim Mod from Earl and will be trying that next.

 

I've seen Four of these of the same color. This is my second one. I'd like to see a picture of your's also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom

 

I'll try to get a pic of mine up. Been working 14 hour days (but happy to be working) so just want to RIDE when I have time.

 

Brian

 

You may well be on the money. I didn't look too closely at the tabs but I "think" they may have been straight or good right angled otherwise I would have noticed. I had the whole assembly apart so I was thinking maybe it wasn't as well lined up on the carb holder brackets but I couldn't figure any other way to fix it. Anyway 5 minutes with the link bar in a vice and hammer and I had it knocked. It wasn't really a Z bend more of a very shallow U bend just to make the link about 1/8" shorter. Put over 5K miles on this setup with no issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I bought my first ever '83VR it sounded like a bucket of bolts at idle. I thought it was normal. All I did was change out the oil and filter with Valvoline MC 20-50, and it quieted right down, and the only reason I did the oil change in the first place was I didn't have a clue what the PO had been using. Hard to believe that an oil change would make that much difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 6003 Bearing in the Clutch Pressure Plate has gone South.

I am just going to say this once. The pressure plate bearing has no effect UNLESS you squeeze the clutch lever. So if it's only is loud when it's NOT squeezed. It's not likely the cause of the noise. I had a bad one...changed it. Made no diff. The noise is ALL the clutch plates rocking and the bike's carbs not sync'd and or other carb issues making it idle less than smooth. And with age, the whole basket wobbles a bit.It's a heavy assembly. The bearing is brass in the basket. Not replacable. Get the carbs set properly and live with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...