Jump to content
IGNORED

Brake problems one more time :)


Recommended Posts

Thanks to everyone for the help. All the problems I was having before are fixed for the time being and the bike is starting easily and running good. So here I go with the next problem. I have no pressure on the foot brake. I plan on bleeding the brakes tomorrow sometime to try to fix it. So if I have researched correctly, I need to bleed the rear brake caliper first, and then the left front caliper, correct? Then the right front. The only other thing I need some info about is the master cylinder lid on the front brake master cylinder. There are 2 phillips head screws holding the lid on. One of the screws is completely stripped and I can't get it out. What do you all think is the best way to get this thing out? Thanks everyone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

had same problem, dremel tool slot into screw(with worn-small diameter cutter) and remove with flat tip. carefull not to grind into cover itself. i replaced my screws with allen wrench head-these are metric thread-english thread will strip master

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drilled the top of the bolt out, then removed cover.

 

About a 3/16" bit.

 

There will be enough still sticking up to get a hold of with vice grips and screw out.

 

Gary

 

Use a left hand bit and 9 times out of 10 just as it cuts through the head it runs the screw out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Got the screw out with the drill. Filled up the resevior. Now all warning lights are out for the time being :cool10:

 

I don't actually think I need to bleed the brake lines. I have brakes, but I have to push the pedal waaayyyy down past where it should be. I noticied the threaded bolt at the back of the pedal. Can I adjust this to raise the brake pedal up? I hope this makes sense. thanks guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Clint,

When adjusting the rear brake pedal, be very careful that you don't adjust it so tight that you partially engage the rear master cylinder. When the rear brake master cylinder warms up due to the engine heat,the rear brake will "Lock Up" due to brake fluid expansion. After a rear brake pedal adjustment, I ALWAYS carry an 8MM and 12MM boxed end wrench in case it does lock up, you can release the bleed screw and "bleed off" some of the pressure and unlock the caliper or unbolt the rear caliper and rock it back and forth to spread the brake pads. Be VERY CAREFUL, that caliper is going to be BLISTERING HOT! :crying:

Earl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Clint,

When adjusting the rear brake pedal, be very careful that you don't adjust it so tight that you partially engage the rear master cylinder. When the rear brake master cylinder warms up due to the engine heat,the rear brake will "Lock Up" due to brake fluid expansion. After a rear brake pedal adjustment, I ALWAYS carry an 8MM and 12MM boxed end wrench in case it does lock up, you can release the bleed screw and "bleed off" some of the pressure and unlock the caliper or unbolt the rear caliper and rock it back and forth to spread the brake pads. Be VERY CAREFUL, that caliper is going to be BLISTERING HOT! :crying:

Earl

 

Boy, Earl's right. I have a saddle off an '83 that actually melted from the heat. Ugly... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i'm not sure if I need to bleed it or not. I have to press the pedal way down, way beyond where it should be, but I have brakes. Can I adjust the brakes using the threaded rod there behind the pedal? Thanks

 

It may be the reason the peddle is so low is that there is not much brake pad left, check pad before you need a rotter.:canada::canada::canada:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You still may have an issue with some air in the lines of the rear braking system. I would absolutely suggest if you haven't flushed all the brake systems that you do so. It probably hasn't been done in years and will need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Clint, just went through my rear master and bleeding since my pedal went all the way down without any braking action worth mentioning. Pulled a ton of crap out of the reservoir, installed a rebuild cylinder (I know Skydoc_17 -Earl- has a "used" one for a MkI:stickpoke:) and fuel line from the reservoir to the cylinder and bled the lines. I've got more brakes now then when the shop bled them for me! :think: and I did not adjust the pedal, yet it sits up highter then it did before. Reason: they never cracked the metering valve towards the top of the tripple tree under the right side of the fairing. Turn your handlebars to the left and you can reach up in there reasonably well when you start bleeding. Spray some WD-40 on that hard connection to help brake it loose, about stripped mine before I got smart enough for that. I also installed sintered pads on the rear caliper, since they were about halfway gone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did my brake pads a month or so ago. But it was not getting a nice hard feel to the pedal until I went out there yesterday for a try. The last couple times I bled the system. I had no luck. yesterday after 15 mins and alot of pumping the pedal. I got nice brakes again. And she is rolling nice too. I had to tear the caliper apart twice and bleed it like 3 time before I got it right. But,its all good now. More stopping power then ever before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...