Weird charging issue

Ok this doesn't make sense to me but I don't know much about motorcycles. My volt gauge reads right at 12 volts but if while cruising down the road I keep slight upward pressure on the shift pedal it reads higher:confused: I guess I will just adjust the pedal so it always sits in that possition but I was wondering why it would do that?

Also another issue with the kill switch. If I put any pressure on the switch it kills it. And I don't mean it the up direction that is supposed to kill it, I mean if it is down and running if I push down more on it it dies. If I relase the pressure its fine. It's not a big deal because if I don't touch it it's fine I was just wondering if that means the switch is going bad and should be replaced so it doesn't cause a problem in the future.

It sounds like you might have a loose ground wire. Pressure on the pedal could be temporarily tightening the connection. Look around and see what electrical parts might be moving slightly with the pedal pressure. Clean and tighten the connections.

Concerning the engine cut-off switch, I'd replace it. The symptoms you describe aren't normal, the switch is probably going bad. Swap it out before you end up not being able ti disengage it.

Ok this doesn't make sense to me but I don't know much about motorcycles. My volt gauge reads right at 12 volts but if while cruising down the road I keep slight upward pressure on the shift pedal it reads higher:confused: I guess I will just adjust the pedal so it always sits in that possition but I was wondering why it would do that?

 

Also another issue with the kill switch. If I put any pressure on the switch it kills it. And I don't mean it the up direction that is supposed to kill it, I mean if it is down and running if I push down more on it it dies. If I relase the pressure its fine. It's not a big deal because if I don't touch it it's fine I was just wondering if that means the switch is going bad and should be replaced so it doesn't cause a problem in the future.

Yeah, I'd suggest replacing the kill switch too. It's worn and probably only making very lite contact. Any pressure at all and the contact is lost. However.... before doing the replacement spray some contact cleaner in there and toggle the switch back and forth a bunch. It may just be dirty..?? On the charging issue. I don't know of any wiring close to the shift spline coming out of the stator cover. That hole is seperate from anything on the inside of the stator. There is a neutral switch on the inside that does have a grond to it, but I don't think that would have anything to do with the charging circutry???

I haven't had much time lately to look into this any further but I have noticed my battery cables are in really poor shape and acctually were hot to the touch after riding for a while (high resistance??). Also it is really hard to start sometimes when hot. I've ordered some of the upgraded cables from the classified section and I'm hoping maybe they will help with my charging and hot starting problem.

You're right, this is not normal. Somebody mentioned cleaning your electrical connections all over the bike - that's a good idea. Do it a few connections at a time. Most often the extra resistance simply comes from a little corrosion at the connection point. A little contact cleaner, plug and unplug a few times, then grease and put the connector back together. Two of the first you should check are the stator / regulator connector and the regulator / bike connector. They are both located behind the LH side cover, near where your calf is when riding the bike. The first has 3 white wires, while the second has red and black wires. Heck, just clean all the connectors in there.

A bad ground can cause weird stuff to happen. There is a major chassis ground located down and to the left of the battery. It's really hard to get to without removing the LH side of the fairing. On the flip side, that fairing really isn't that hard to get off if you have an hour or so. I also added supplemental ground wires here and there.

It really should charge at 14V, not 12, if the battery is healthy and the engine is turning, oh, 2500 rpm or more.

Jeremy

You're right, this is not normal. Somebody mentioned cleaning your electrical connections all over the bike - that's a good idea. Do it a few connections at a time. Most often the extra resistance simply comes from a little corrosion at the connection point.

Jeremy

Jeremy made a real good point here. I believe we all have changed or worked on a bunch of stuff and when we start it, we have a problem and don't have an idea where to look for the fix.

On checking and cleaning connections, it helps to squeeze the terminals slightly for a more snug fit. I also use a fingernail file to rub on the spade terminals to clean the film/corrosion off. Also check resistance on the kickstand switch to make sure it is not corroded internally as it can cause all types of problems.

RandyA

Well from what I have tested I came to the conclusion that the engine wasn't grounded to the fram very well. I don't know where the bad ground is but I bolted a piece of battery cable from a bolt on the engine to a bolt on the frame and now it is charging like is should all the time. Someday when I get more time I'll move the wire to a move descreet location than I put it in for testing but for right now it's working great.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Engine ground makes good sense now that you mention it, move the peddle and the ground becomes better, and so you have found your problem. I don't think there is a designated ground from the engine to the frame, at least I have not found one yet, except on my own scoot, and that's the one I added.

I have not gotten into the wiring system on my Venture very much yet but on my Virago the factory ground from the neg terminal is to the engine only. Connecting copper to aluminum is a source of corrosion so that connection needs lots of maintenance to prevent it from degrading. The engine connections to the frame are something that would rarely, if ever, be cleaned up. Many Virago owners have found that adding a second ground from the neg terminal to the frame makes things work better.