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I know I've seen it somewhere here. But, for the life of me I can't find it now.

 

The instructions to installing passing lamps on my RSV. These are the yammy brand.

 

Any help out there?

 

Snow is almost all gone....with some luck we should be able to get the bikes out very soon!

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The yammie lamps should have instructions with them. Here is the thread with the diagram for the alternate wiring method using a relay.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=525

 

Here is an alternate method from the Venturers site. You will have to register to view it. Viewing is free but you will have to pay if you want to post.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002007&id=247

 

Here are the factory instructions. Also from the venturers.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002007&id=357

 

http://www.venturers.org/index.php

 

You may want to mount the lights with this spacer. Less trouble down the road splitting the fairing.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1656

Edited by royalstarjac
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I'm kinda a lazy cuss so I ordered a wiring harness already made up.

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Aux_Lights/auxkit-new1.jpg

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Aux_Lights/aux_lights.html

 

I also got a heavy duty switch with a rubber boot to keep the moisture out. Put it by the auxiliary power plug in the fairing.

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/togglewithboot_9001.jpg

 

http://cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users16/marinerfan/default/large-msg-123052888623.jpg

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Cheap & Looks good too. $15.97 Walmart Platinum Burners, Chrome and Stainless Hardware. 2.5 inch and 55 watts. I removed the bottom bolt from the Clear Bat Wing on Front Forks. This kit comes with a lighted relay switch and all the wire you will need. I will post some Pictures soon. 15 bucks better than 150+++

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/frogmaster_2006/16APR09002.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/frogmaster_2006/16APR09001.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/frogmaster_2006/16APR09003.jpg

Edited by frogmaster
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  • 1 month later...

 

 

What ever you do NEVER purchase that light bar.. I had bought one for my VStar and the damn thing was nothing but a pain in the assets.. proprietary bulbs and a weak as heck metal light bar that cracked, peeled and rusted within the first season and broke off in the second season.. garbage!!

 

I hated it so much I thought I oughta warn you..

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Just don't wire the darn thing into the headlight circuit. Reason being is that if you blow the fuse for the Head Lights, and if you use a Yamaha light bar chances are you will eventually. You will LOSE ALL of your front lighting. Not good at night or in the rain. Believe me I have had both happen.

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Just don't wire the darn thing into the headlight circuit. Reason being is that if you blow the fuse for the Head Lights, and if you use a Yamaha light bar chances are you will eventually. You will LOSE ALL of your front lighting. Not good at night or in the rain. Believe me I have had both happen.

 

Agree 1,000 %

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Just don't wire the darn thing into the headlight circuit. Reason being is that if you blow the fuse for the Head Lights, and if you use a Yamaha light bar chances are you will eventually. You will LOSE ALL of your front lighting. Not good at night or in the rain. Believe me I have had both happen.

+1

Exactly right.

My passing lamps have a habit of popping the fuse, I think it is a pinched wire. Then I lose all front lighting. This was the way the dealership installed the lights, following the instructions. They also wired the lights to turn off when the highbeams come on.

 

I ran a wire under the tank this past weekend for a circuit straight to the battery. I'll put in a relay to the running lights to turn them on and off with the bike. I want my passing lamps on all the time, high beams or low.

 

Dave

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+1

Exactly right.

My passing lamps have a habit of popping the fuse, I think it is a pinched wire. Then I lose all front lighting. This was the way the dealership installed the lights, following the instructions. They also wired the lights to turn off when the highbeams come on.

 

I ran a wire under the tank this past weekend for a circuit straight to the battery. I'll put in a relay to the running lights to turn them on and off with the bike. I want my passing lamps on all the time, high beams or low.

 

Dave

 

I am willing to bet your short is on one of the running/turn signal lights where the wires come out and into the light bar. That is a VERY sharp area of the light fixture and it will slice through the wire. That's where mine happened both times. I ended up running an external wire from where the turn signal slips into the bar bypassing the bar itself. Haven't had a problem since and that was 18 months ago.

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I am willing to bet your short is on one of the running/turn signal lights where the wires come out and into the light bar. That is a VERY sharp area of the light fixture and it will slice through the wire. That's where mine happened both times. I ended up running an external wire from where the turn signal slips into the bar bypassing the bar itself. Haven't had a problem since and that was 18 months ago.

 

That could very well be. But, I opened the lamps and one of them had what looked like a burn mark on a wire inside. It looked like some of the other wires were pressing it. I carefully repacked the wires into the lamp and haven't had a problem since. BUT, my problems were infrequent, every three months or so, and it hasn't been that long.

 

Dave

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have had lots of folks pull out in front of us from side streets or doing a lane change without looking (tuff to look while you are texting I hear). We put in a head light modulator in both bikes. Not one, zero, nada, zip people have pulled out in front of us. They do the 'give it a look (rolling stop) then start to move out in our path... then hit the breaks and stop hard.' Some are pissed 'cause we are not cops or emergency veh. Let them be pissed. All I are about is not becoming part of the paint on their cage. The funny thing that happened rather frequently while on our last 28 day, 5000 mile road trip... people would roll down their window and say "Hay, did ya know your headlight is flashing on and off?" Yep! thanks, glad you spotted that.

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I have had lots of folks pull out in front of us from side streets or doing a lane change without looking (tuff to look while you are texting I hear). We put in a head light modulator in both bikes. Not one, zero, nada, zip people have pulled out in front of us. They do the 'give it a look (rolling stop) then start to move out in our path... then hit the breaks and stop hard.' Some are pissed 'cause we are not cops or emergency veh. Let them be pissed. All I are about is not becoming part of the paint on their cage. The funny thing that happened rather frequently while on our last 28 day, 5000 mile road trip... people would roll down their window and say "Hay, did ya know your headlight is flashing on and off?" Yep! thanks, glad you spotted that.

 

 

I have to agree as much as I hate to. I hate those things, to me they are annoying as all get out, but they do get you noticed. I'm seriously thinking of breaking down and putting them on our bikes.

 

I have way to many morons pull out in front of me and I ride 100 miles round trip every day to work. On cold and/or rainy days it is worse because no one thinks anybody would ride on days like that. Well I'm one of the few around here that does ride rain or shin, hot or cold.

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Cheap & Looks good too. $15.97 Walmart Platinum Burners, Chrome and Stainless Hardware. 2.5 inch and 55 watts. I removed the bottom bolt from the Clear Bat Wing on Front Forks. This kit comes with a lighted relay switch and all the wire you will need. I will post some Pictures soon. 15 bucks better than 150+++

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/frogmaster_2006/16APR09002.jpg

 

 

 

 

I like the look of that, but I would advise buying the sturdier brackets from diamond r because the weight of those things will crack the OEM brackets. When that happens you are going to have that light, the bracket, along with the deflector come off and be tethered by the wires and it will wreak havoc on your front fender and quite possibly your radiator.

 

They crack just from the plastic deflector on them, adding that weight will only make it happen faster.

 

Not guaranteeing that the Diamond R won't crack, but it's a heck of a lot sturdier.

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Okay, so I ran the wire under the tank, wired in the relay etc. etc.

Now when the key comes on, the driving lights are on. When I start the engine, the lights go out momentarily (I THINK that is by design), the headlight comes back immediately but the driving lights do not. There's still power to the relay. Why doesn't it switch the driving lights back on? I have to turn OFF the driving lights and turn them back on for them to work.

Am I the only one with this issue? Any ideas why this happens?

Lynn

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Okay, so I ran the wire under the tank, wired in the relay etc. etc.

Now when the key comes on, the driving lights are on. When I start the engine, the lights go out momentarily (I THINK that is by design), the headlight comes back immediately but the driving lights do not. There's still power to the relay. Why doesn't it switch the driving lights back on? I have to turn OFF the driving lights and turn them back on for them to work.

Am I the only one with this issue? Any ideas why this happens?

Lynn

 

On which post is the power to the relay? Is it the power from the battery, or from the switch?

 

If both are there I would check the ground first, then if that does not fix it I would check the switch and relay. If you have power to all both relay terminals and the ground is good then it would have to be the relay.

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On which post is the power to the relay? Is it the power from the battery, or from the switch?

 

If both are there I would check the ground first, then if that does not fix it I would check the switch and relay. If you have power to all both relay terminals and the ground is good then it would have to be the relay.

 

I wired the relay according to Freebird's diagram. Power from the battery to the relay, relay powered by the cig. lighter positive lead, switch to ground, lights on the proper # etc.

 

Again, it all works fine until I start the engine. Then I have to turn it off and back on again. Works fine from that point on - until the next time I hit the starter button.

Thanks for mulling it over

Lynn

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