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God, I HATE being a GIRL!


Blusees

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OK, so I was going to change the oil on the bike. I've done it before and it was much harder then because I didn't have the oil filter relocation kit - I had to take of the pipes and everything.

 

I spent half an hour trying to just loosen the drain bolt and I can't do it. I hate myself right now. Anyone have any tips for getting the sucker loose?

 

I'm not going to try again until tomorrow - I can only handle so much humiliation in one day.

 

--Courtney:crying:

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Yea, the relocation kit is money well spent.

 

Righty tighty lefty loosey....just saying.....

 

It's best to walk away from a job when things aren't going right.

 

Yea, I know about these things. :whistling:

 

He could be right. When looking at the face of the bolt you are turning counter-clockwise??

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Adding length to your wrench or ratchet will increase the leverage. The key is to keep the wrench head or socket on the plug straight so you don't strip it or round the edges. Apply tension and then add a quick pop/pull to break it lose and then you should be able to remove it in a normal fashion.

 

Good luck!!

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Thanks! Yes, I did check quite a few times that I was going in the counter - clockwise direction!!!! Cause I would have felt really stupid if I didn't do that!

 

I tried the hammer thing, but didn't try just quickly leaning on it. My brother-in-law showed me the "extra-torque" make the handle longer thing, but I couldn't find anything that would work to do that. I'll try again tomorrow. Sigh....

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I bought a late model XS 11 about 11 years ago. First year I went to change the oil and the filter but the previous owner had rounded the bolt And put it back on way too tight. Long story short I had to take it to a dealer who welded a bolt to it to work it out. I fought with that thing for a day. Talk about humiliation

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Hey Courtney,

I just wanted to add that both Jean and I admire your spunk (actually, Jean said "You Go Girl!), Keep workin' on your own bike, It makes the rides sooo much better when YOU KNOW that your bike is running properly because you did the work. Now, with that being said, I think Bob has given you an excellent suggestion. Warm the motor up, then try again. The real problem is that you have a steel plug in an Aluminum oil pan. The dissimilar metals expand and contract at two different rates. I know this won't help you this time but before you put the drain plug back in, get some anti-seize (any auto parts store, comes in a tube, looks like grease.) Put it on the threads, then install the plug. Next oil change, it should come out a lot easier. You would be surprised how many "heavy handed" men have rung off a bolt or galled the threads because of "too much force"! Being "light handed" will save you a lot of broken hardware and frustration in the future.:080402gudl_prv:

Earl

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don't be so hard on yourself. hang in there. Many is the time I have had to "sleep on it" before solving a problem. Something to consider if you use a "cheater" bar is to try to make sure you are using a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point. The 6 point will be less apt to round off your bolt. good luck :)

 

Cliff

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 Bring the engine and oil up to operating temperature first. 

 

Did that.

 

 Change you own oil?????????????
Have you been proposed to lately??????
Some young buck is sure missing out if you're single!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I wish - my b/f is in the army and in Korea. But I'm pretty sure he'd have this figured out if he were here!!!

 

I'm thinking I may take it to the dealer since they were the last to tighten the bolt after the ORK was installed. Just need to find time this week before our ride on the 18th!!!!!

 

Thanks for all the encouragement/support. (Especially Jean and Skydoc!) I appreciate it!

 

--Courtney

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If you are sure you are turning the plug the correct way here is a way to get more leverage. It is best to use a wrench a couple sizes bigger. Hope this helps. Hope this is a link that works. 

 

Hmm, I was using a socket wrench - maybe I'll try this tomorrow! I'll keep you posted!

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http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=217082880/PictureID=8040937014/a=122922917_122922917/otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish

 

If you are sure you are turning the plug the correct way here is a way to get more leverage. It is best to use a wrench a couple sizes bigger. Hope this helps. Hope this is a link that works.

 

I've used this many times. It works fine and won't ruin your ratchet if you use to much torque. Just be sure your wrench on the oil drain plug is on square, then apply firm controlled pressure to make sure that if you slip, your knuckles won't bang into something causing you to bleed and say un-ladylike words and such.

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That plug is in just about the worst place possible. I hope there is a special place in hell for the engineer that put it there.

 

If you manage to get a wrench on it without the other end of the wrench against the floor you've already worked a miracle. I did one last week, on a lift, and had to jack it up to get room to turn the wrench.

 

What you really need is called a "crow's foot". It is like the end of a open end wrench with a square hole you can put your big old ratchet handle on.

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Hello Bluesees. I think I know what you are going through right now. Just like my Venture, I did its very first oil change and just as I was going to loosen the oil drain plug...it would not budge. I tried all my might and did the 'cheater bar' thing and it still would not budge...I was also afraid that I might break the whole bolt and that would be my worst nightmare. After spending 20-30 minutes trying to figure out how to loosen it...I finally decided to just use my air gun and hopefully the bolt would turn. I gave the bolt one small shot of the air gun ...success.

 

If this is the first time your are changing the oil on a brand new bike, Yamaha sure does make those oil drain plugs very very tight.

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Guest tx2sturgis

Hey Blusees, If you really want to get that drain plug out, go to Harbor Freight, or anyplace that sells mechanics tools, and buy a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, about 18 inches long, and buy a good quality 6 point 1/2 inch drive socket that will fit your drain plug size. I can practically guarantee this will get the job done. I've included a link at the bottom of this post.

 

Make sure the bike is warmed up..not hot though. Working from the RIGHT (throttle) side of the bike, you will be applying force on the breaker bar handle towards the REAR of the bike...pushing it from front to rear. If you go in from the other side,( not a good practice) then reverse the direction of force.

 

When you put the plug back in, DON'T use the breaker bar...just use a normal socket wrench or you'll damage it. You might want to buy a new drain plug and a couple of crush washers ( or O-rings, whichever it uses) from the dealer. Clean off around the opening of the drain plug before you reinstall it. And...I dont recommend using anti-seize on a drain plug...there is a chance that you might get some of the antiseize in the oil supply.

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30396

 

 

{{{Update: I am assuming the drainplug on a Vstar is UNDER the oil pan, facing the ground...if its facing to the side or front or rear, just be sure to turn it counterclockwise to loosen. }}}

Edited by tx2sturgis
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