That nasty oil leak

Is your Venture vying to look like an old Harley?

Last year I developed a leak that I thought was the mid-cover gasket so when I repaired the stator that started to dye and the center bearing in the transmission, I replaced all the gaskets. Now that should have been that, but the leak is still there spotting the floor like a bad puppy.

I have let the trike set for a long time (2 months) and noted that the leak was getting worse, so I took a look at the underside of the motor and found the culprit. It was the seal on the shift shaft at the rear of the motor and this was first time that I have had this seal leek.

The fix

Having a trike to work on will make this easier because I can put the trike on auto ramps that will make the oil go forward in the engine and not have much come out when the Mid-gear & clutch cover are removed. It also gives me an extra 6.5 inches of space under the bike that will make this job a lot easier. If you have a lift it would make this job easier also.

1) Remove seat, tank top, side covers.

2) Note the position of the clamp at the end of the shaft, mark the shaft so you can put it back in the same position. My shaft was marked. Remove the 10MM bolt & Spread the clamp with a blade screwdriver and remove the clamp with the screwdriver and leave it attached to the screwdriver. (See driver.jpg)

3) Place oil collectors under the case covers cuse it’s gonna leak. Now remove the foot pegs, clutch cover & mid-gear cover.

4) Remove the clutch spring (s) & pressure plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch plates keeping them in order so they can be put back in the same position (yes it is important!). (see Rplates.jpg) You do not have to remove the clutch plate held in place with the wire.

5A) Bend the locking tab away from the nut & while holding the clutch boss with Yamaha or home made tool, use a 30MM socket and remove the nut, plunger and ball bearing. (See tool1.jpg) If you have an impact wrench go to 5B

5B) You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but you will need the tool to torque the nut when you reinstall the boss.

6) Remove the clutch boss, thrust washer and clutch basket.

7) Lift the claw on the shift mechanism and pull it out about 2” this will clear the seal. (See claw.jpg)

8) I had to make a tool to remove the old seal because I have did not have anything that would do the job. (see tool2.jpg)

9) Be sure to oil the new seal then Install the new seal by taping into place. I did this by using a ¾”socket with wheel bearing grease on the end & 6” extension inserted in the socket backwards. (See tool3.jpg)

Now use the female end of the extension to seat the seal into place.

10) Now reinstall the shift shaft by lifting the claw into place on the shift barrel.

11) Install the basket, washer and boss on the shaft and tighten the nut to 50 FT LB holding the boss in place with the tool. Lock the nut in place with the locking tab.

11A If you don’t have a tool to hold the boss & because this shaft is part of the transmission, if you re-attach the bracket to the shift shaft and put the motor in 2ed or 3ed. Then it should be possible to hold the foot brake down and torque to 50 FT LB. I have not tried this but I can’t see why it would not work.

12) Install the clutch plates the way you found them. (See Iplates.jpg)

13) Now reinstall the clutch Ball bearing, plunger, presser and spring(s) torque bolts to 5.8 FT LB. plate (remember to align the dots on the presser plate & basket “See dots.jpg”)

14) Use the screwdriver to put the clamp back on the shaft & a pair of Forceps to put the bolt back in the clamp, tighten clamp with 10MM socket.

15) Put the case covers back on and torque the bolts to 7.2 FT LB

16) Replace foot pegs or the floorboards.

17 Replace any lost oil.

This repair is not particularly difficult, but the space is very small to work in.

I did have a problem in removing the old seal and had to make a tool.

Fred