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rust removal tips


Guest Oldnwizr1

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Guest Oldnwizr1

Have been slowly restoring an old 83 Venture recently purchased. It

appears to have a nice accumulation of rust (sporry) on the frame

and exposed bolts on the motor. Would appreciate advice on how

to remove rust have been advised to use wire brush on drill and naval jelly but

wondered if someone had better rust removal advice. Thanks

James

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Guest timshosvt

I have used Eastwoods products with great sucess. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=372

 

The phosphoric acid concoction that they used to sell is now very high priced. It worked well for converting rust in lumpy welds and areas that were tough to get to.

 

I have used Eastwood's rust encapsulator paint on car frame items....but I got it at one of the car shows in Carlisle, PA and didn't pay anything close to 23 dollars for a can of it.

 

Here's something that I wanted to try, but my bike just caught on fire. Perhaps if I get it rewired.......

http://www.por15.com/bHardnose-Paint-b?sc=2&category=212

 

Regards,

Tim

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  • 3 weeks later...

I used white vinegar on a cloth and wet down the area, rubbing it in. Then I followed it up rubbing with an aluminum foil crumbled up into a ball. Keep briskly hard rubbing. It will start to take effect. Good luck.

MIKE aka Uturn

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James,

 

Depending on what your trying to accomplish (besides the obvious) a handheld sand blaster might do the trick. I have one and it works pretty slick, you could actually leave the bolts in if you chose to. Then just wipe down with a degreasing solvent and prime/paint....something to think about :confused24:

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  • 1 year later...

If you are working on a painted metal surface,I suggest SEM products Rust-Mort. Once brushed on, it provides a dark grey surface that can be primed and painted. Remove loose stuff and put on several light coats. Also, I have used the POR-15 on automotive frames the same way. Both items are available at an auto body supply shop. SEM has a good line of specialty coatings and commercial bonding agents. They make the 2 part epoxy system that attaches the non-metallic panels on vehicle frames.

 

If you are working on chromed or stainless surfaces I have had good luck with Naval Jelly from DURO. Also don't forget the common things. White vinegar does work. So does that CLR stuff. I have used CLR for years to clean battery connections and even green corroded electrical plugs. I put it in a cup and dip the connector. Then I get another cup with water and dip again. Finally use a bit of contact cleaner to remove the water. This leaves multi-pin connectors clean and bright. Use some dielectric grease on assembly.

 

SOS pads scrub great. As does 0000 steel wool and chrome polish. Just remember to wipe down well and get any steel wool fibers out of the crannies. Otherwise they will rust.

 

Small brass detailing brushes are good combined with most of the cleaning stuff listed above. Helps loosen the areas not accessible with the fingers.

 

JB

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When I restored my old 83 Maxim last year, I was told to try 000 steel wool with Coke. Yup, good old Coca-Cola. Believe it or not, it worked better than the vinegar or the SOS pads I tried. Very light pressure, frequent dips into the coke, and a little patience. Wash off with soap and water when you are done otherwise there will be bees and other bugs all over your machine within hours (ok, maybe not this time of year depending on where you are).

 

One thing that you will defiinitely want to do though is either wax everything right after you get it good and clean or cover it with a clear paint/laquer. If you are cleaning the exhaust pipes, a chrome polish or wax will seal it and keep it from oxidizing again (at least for a while).

 

Good luck !

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  • 5 years later...
Take a pack of Grape Kool Aide and put just enough water in it to make a paste, paint it on with a tooth brush and leave it for about 10 mins. The citric acid will eat the rust away.

 

I have used Muratic Acid for many years,, stuff works FANTASTIC - especially on prepping badly rusted tanks!! Problem is ya gotta really make sure you get a good neutralizing when your done and get right with painting or whatever cause it rust back real fast!! THANK YOU Red for the suggestion of Grape Kool Aid - I will try it and let you know how it works for me!! Cant be anymore nasty to work with the Muratic Acid!!

 

Thanks

Puc

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I was just wondering if you can leave something like this a little moist when you're spraying it with the new water based automotive enamels? That's the challenge for me, you neutralize or remove the etching solution with water based chemicals but then while you're getting it all dry it begins to rust again.

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I use heat and compressed air to force dry it so that I can get the first coat of primer on as quickly as possible. There are some primers that don't mind a slight surface rust, and some that work even better with a light surface rust.

 

Moisture left behind will still start new rust under the new paint and cause the paint to NOT adhere in the moist areas, and get real ugly real quick.

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I heard this from the guy who restores just about anything (on TV...forgot his name).

This is what he said on TV on how to remove rust on chrome............

DO NOT ball it up where it is all hard as heck, only lightly wadded up aluminum foil, shinny side out...

dip it in a pail of plain tap water and then gently rub the aluminum foil on the rust and it will remove the rust from the chrome leaving no scratch marks whatsoever on the chrome.

Edited by Eck
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  • 10 months later...

WD40

For chrome that doesn't get 'exhaust' hot, brush on with a toothbrush / small paint brush. Wipe off rust with just a rag in a couple of weeks.

Before I put my machines to bed for a New England winter, I paint ALL chrome for rust protection. My '75 Wing is still showroom.

weird-wonderful-uses-wd-40>

A4Forever

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I use electrolysis. It isn't as fast as mechanical or chemical removal but it doesn't need to be neutralized and it doesn't eat anything but rust. Of course you will probably need a 55 gallon drum or so to fit the frame in it. If you want the details, I can send along what I do.

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  • 10 months later...
  • 3 months later...

I haven't tried nuts and bolts yet but I know Evapo Rust does wonders in a gas tank that i have been trying to get cleaned for years and it is now rust free after a week of haven nuts and bolts inside the tank with 3 gallons of it. You can pick it up at O'reily Auto parts for 20 bux...:biker:

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  • 11 months later...
Do a search...I put a picture up showing the difference between my two pipes and some aluminum foil. Never mind...found it...http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=98903

 

UPDATE:

 

Last week, I got a clutch MC from KIC.....he also gave me two pipes for my 89 as one of mine is seriously rusted out near the rear of the muffler tip. (BTW, thank you Bill!),

 

I took them home and went out to clean them up. Well, here I am...sitting on the garage floor...hand scraping with aluminum foil and the Boss comes out with some goop. She says: "Try this...will work much easier". I try it. Grab a clean handful of foil and go to work. Oh my....rust and discoloration comes right off!

 

Needless to say...it worked. So here is the secret formula. Permission from the Boss. She did say it didn't work quite as good as a shower cleaner...but even she was impressed with how it took off the grease, grime and rust!

 

20170705_102838.jpg

 

and the results...on one pipe.

 

20170628_114254.jpg

 

Just sayin....

Edited by videoarizona
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The clean pipe looks even better in person than the picture shows. Since I have to take my pipes off to change the rear shock, I am going to try that stuff... In fact since VidAZ did so well ..I might get him to show me how to have that much fun...

 

( see reading Tom Sawyer & Huck Finn wasn't a waste of time after all ) :happy65:

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  • 1 month later...

well I agree with snyper316. That stuff from autozone works like magic and is water based. You can dip or brush it on. I like the dip because you still have it to use over and over. When I did the inside of fuel tank pored in around a quart. Would turn the tank every few min. Dumped the stuff out the petcock hole into a pan. Then pored it back into container. Did that in three hours. Also my old tools are not rusty anymore. :thumbsup:

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