It pays to purchase the already printed Service Manaul...

Well, I thought I had wasted $109.00 (with $20.00 shipping charge included), but man...at 746 pages, it was a wash/wash for the cost of having printed the manual at home. You figure the cost of high quality waxed paper, the binding, the time...and it becomes a wash for the cost to purchase. If you only want a few pages, for this or that...sure you can home print from the found on-line PDF...but to have it, as American also states, at your work bench, with really good schematics, this is the right path. So...glad I bought one...

Post Edit......manual on the knee...and thought I might offer a tip....if you don't have a compressor, and you want to service the spark plugs...to first blow out the Spark Plug Wells...so debris won't fall into the cylinder...I suggest you purchase two or three cans of compressed air/cleaner spray for use inside computer cabinets. You folks know the ones...and use those first to blow fully around the S.P. wells, before removing (the actual S.P.'s) them. Yep..glad I got this baby...good reading so far..and giving me increased confidence of ownership, and my own garage maintenance. Sparks plugs are 13 foot pounds to snug up.

Post Edit 2: Folks, this 1854 cc engine---> IS engineered by material and oil flow gallery, to run very cool...and why? Because BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances are the same. BOTH are set to 0.0016 inches. To any mechanic, that is the tip-off. You only get that, when the exhaust valve seating area is heat conductive enough, to not need a usually more open setting of 0.0018, that I have seen in years of being a B.Y.M. Both the Primary and Secondary (Slave set) of the four valves of this engine IS adjusted by the hydraulic lifters...but because the slave set have a mechanical shaft to apply cam-love English, Yamaha wants to make certain that there is no material wear factor (between the Primary enablers...and the Slave enablers. So...that is the reason for the 16,000 mile/25,000 km inspection interval. It does not say that you will ever NEED to adjust...if you run with good oil...do the time interval for oil and filter...but that they want to make sure that every 16,000 miles, it is SEEN that both the Primary and Secondary enabler's are both set to 0.0016 inch valve clearance. I personally think this bike (from my usage so far..is going to maintain pretty much, that 0.0016 inch clearance for its service life. Just my hunch with years of wrench cranking...lol.

I have made the service life decision, that I am going from the 600 miles first inspection onward to use their YamaLube Full Synthetic 15W-50. (I made a correction as noted by American) I spec'ed that oil at a dealership..and really like the higher Ester's factor. I think that with oil cooling as the secondary cooling tech...this is the best life-blood for my SVTC. Personal opinion, in play.

I've also printed out the special tools pages, and will be ordering their valve clearance gauges, the drive belt tension gauge, the tappet adjusting tool, the USB Yamaha Diagnostic tool, and the oil filter wrench head. I normally hand torque my filters...but on this bike...I want to know by Torque Wrench that it will be the 13 foot pounds it calls for.

While I'm on a 'coffee roll'...might I also suggest that you print the SVTC General Specifications and put those few pages with your Operator's Manual Pouch, in the bike. That way...you will always have the spec's and parts for ordering either while on tour...or inside your own garage and/or driveway.

A slight correction on the oil, Yamalube 20w-50 comes in either all purpose (conventional oil) or Semi-Synthetic.

If you want to run full synthetic you will need to run Yamalube 15w-50 as that is a full synthetic.

Yamalube does add ester to both its Semi-Synthetic and full Synthetic oils.

I will be running the 15w-50 full Synthetic Yamalube oil in mine. After the service contract is up I will switch to Redline synthetic oil because it is a group V full ester oil.

You will find during break-in there is going to be a lot of metallic in the oil as everything wears in, I had some Redline 20w-50 left over from my Harley so after the dealer did the 600 mile service they used Yamalube 10w-40 conventional oil and I ran that for the next 400 miles to the 1,000 mile mark and I dumped that oil as the basic break-in is over by the 1,000 mile mark and I put in Redline 20w-50 synthetic oil and a new Yamaha oil filter. I will run the Redline to the 4,000 mile oil change and at that time I will start using the Yamalube 15w-50 full synthetic.

One thing I can tell you is the bike runs a little smoother with the full synthetic oil vs the conventional oil.

A slight correction on the oil, Yamalube 20w-50 comes in either all purpose (conventional oil) or Semi-Synthetic.

 

If you want to run full synthetic you will need to run Yamalube 15w-50 as that is a full synthetic.

 

Yamalube does add ester to both its Semi-Synthetic and full Synthetic oils.

 

I will be running the 15w-50 full Synthetic Yamalube oil in mine. After the service contract is up I will switch to Redline synthetic oil because it is a group V full ester oil.

 

You will find during break-in there is going to be a lot of metallic in the oil as everything wears in, I had some Redline 20w-50 left over from my Harley so after the dealer did the 600 mile service they used Yamalube 10w-40 conventional oil and I ran that for the next 400 miles to the 1,000 mile mark and I dumped that oil as the basic break-in is over by the 1,000 mile mark and I put in Redline 20w-50 synthetic oil and a new Yamaha oil filter. I will run the Redline to the 4,000 mile oil change and at that time I will start using the Yamalube 15w-50 full synthetic.

 

One thing I can tell you is the bike runs a little smoother with the full synthetic oil vs the conventional oil.

Thanks for that...yes..that is the one----> 15W-50 that I will only be using. Also, I suggest to us all, that when you open the top oil port in the lower crank case to make a little square of non-scratch, nylon porch screening, and to place that over that round open port with some painter's green masking tape...while the oil is draining...and lift it off just before you start to add oil to the crank case. This will prevent foreign objects, as well as insect carcass entry. A suggestion.

BTW...your's is a good suggestion, to use the standard 10w40 until that thousand miles is reached, and then do another oil change to what I shall be running from thereon...so good idea. I'll do that as well.

I see that the Redline 20W50 is $5.00 cheaper than the Yamalube 15W50

https://www.redlineoil.com/20w50-motorcycle-oil

BTW...was really encouraged this morning while going through the first prelimenary run of the S.M...that the exhaust valve clearance is the same as the intake. That made my day! That tells you everything in what Yamaha 'solution engineered', for cooling metrics at the most critical part of the jug...the exhaust valve seat!!!

I might be confused a bit. But them there valve clearances seem a bit tight. Maybe 1 to many zeros? .016? sixteen thousandths. Dont really matter to me, the Vic is hydraulic.

I might be confused a bit. But them there valve clearances seem a bit tight. Maybe 1 to many zeros? .016? sixteen thousandths. Dont really matter to me, the Vic is hydraulic.

Nope, those are the published spec's...

Post Edit 2: Folks, this 1854 cc engine---> IS engineered by material and oil flow gallery, to run very cool...and why? Because BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances are the same. BOTH are set to 0.0016 inches. To any mechanic, that is the tip-off. You only get that, when the exhaust valve seating area is heat conductive enough, to not need a usually more open setting of 0.0018, that I have seen in years of being a B.Y.M.

In the future... please misquote the manual... properly.

0.0016" is the same thing as ZERO. So is 0.0018

The spec denotes no improved metallurgy regarding heat. The hydraulic adjuster may have enough stack to allow for as much as 5/32" of play while still keeping valve clearance to zero. Intake and exhaust.

See 4 hydraulic lifters as number 15 and you will see in the valve train where they are located and how they function.

Adjuster screw and nut 10 and 11 just make that side zero too.

Victory Motorcycles hated this setup as it is famous for twist wear as pointed out in one of their videos.

1.56 in following video

So... we are happy for you and your new bike and hope you enjoy it now that you more properly understand some items about it.

So now Im confused more. Is tber a required valve adjustment for the new Venture? At that .0016 in I wouldnt have any feeler gauges that work. Not sure I could find any either.

Well, I thought I had wasted $109.00 (with $20.00 shipping charge included), but man...at 746 pages, it was a wash/wash for the cost of having printed the manual at home. You figure the cost of high quality waxed paper, the binding, the time...and it becomes a wash for the cost to purchase. If you only want a few pages, for this or that...sure you can home print from the found on-line PDF...but to have it, as American also states, at your work bench, with really good schematics, this is the right path. So...glad I bought one...

 

Post Edit......manual on the knee...and thought I might offer a tip....if you don't have a compressor, and you want to service the spark plugs...to first blow out the Spark Plug Wells...so debris won't fall into the cylinder...I suggest you purchase two or three cans of compressed air/cleaner spray for use inside computer cabinets. You folks know the ones...and use those first to blow fully around the S.P. wells, before removing (the actual S.P.'s) them. Yep..glad I got this baby...good reading so far..and giving me increased confidence of ownership, and my own garage maintenance. Sparks plugs are 13 foot pounds to snug up.

 

Post Edit 2: Folks, this 1854 cc engine---> IS engineered by material and oil flow gallery, to run very cool...and why? Because BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances are the same. BOTH are set to 0.0016 inches. To any mechanic, that is the tip-off. You only get that, when the exhaust valve seating area is heat conductive enough, to not need a usually more open setting of 0.0018, that I have seen in years of being a B.Y.M. Both the Primary and Secondary (Slave set) of the four valves of this engine IS adjusted by the hydraulic lifters...but because the slave set have a mechanical shaft to apply cam-love English, Yamaha wants to make certain that there is no material wear factor (between the Primary enablers...and the Slave enablers. So...that is the reason for the 16,000 mile/25,000 km inspection interval. It does not say that you will ever NEED to adjust...if you run with good oil...do the time interval for oil and filter...but that they want to make sure that every 16,000 miles, it is SEEN that both the Primary and Secondary enabler's are both set to 0.0016 inch valve clearance. I personally think this bike (from my usage so far..is going to maintain pretty much, that 0.0016 inch clearance for its service life. Just my hunch with years of wrench cranking...lol.

 

I have made the service life decision, that I am going from the 600 miles first inspection onward to use their YamaLube Full Synthetic 15W-50. (I made a correction as noted by American) I spec'ed that oil at a dealership..and really like the higher Ester's factor. I think that with oil cooling as the secondary cooling tech...this is the best life-blood for my SVTC. Personal opinion, in play.

 

I've also printed out the special tools pages, and will be ordering their valve clearance gauges, the drive belt tension gauge, the tappet adjusting tool, the USB Yamaha Diagnostic tool, and the oil filter wrench head. I normally hand torque my filters...but on this bike...I want to know by Torque Wrench that it will be the 13 foot pounds it calls for.

 

While I'm on a 'coffee roll'...might I also suggest that you print the SVTC General Specifications and put those few pages with your Operator's Manual Pouch, in the bike. That way...you will always have the spec's and parts for ordering either while on tour...or inside your own garage and/or driveway.

Well,, I am certainly farrr from being any form of a professional mechanic/engineer and I truthfully dont even know what a "B.Y.M" even is but I do know that I have set my share of valve clearances on scoots thru the years and have found that a normal clearance to my likin is 3 thou on the intakes and 5 thou on the exhaust... BUT,,, and this is important IMHO,, those clearances are clearances I have used on non hydraulic lifter motors,, simple and sweet as apple pie..

I did notice the single valve adjustment on each rocker assembly on the cutaway of the 113 down at Sturgis (as shown in the vid below that agrees with the diagram that Duey posted) and truthfully,,,,, the whole sales pitch idea about the single adjustment to zero being related to the Yams advance heat management technology never even entered my mind.. I looked at it and thought it was probably more of an adjustment to "zero" the outer valve clearance on each rocker just to keep the valves in close proximity to each other when opening, figuring the hydraulic lifters themself's would be doing the same thing hydraulically as they have been doing on other push rod engines for years = no adjustment there needed..

Looking at the specs now and rethinking the whole scenario,, I can see where a valve adjustment on one of these 113's would basically be no more than lining up the crank marks so the cam lob would be off the lifter then loosening the locknut on that outer rocker valve adjuster and, treating the adjuster like you would a micrometer - dial it down till ya feel it touch the valve and lock er up with the lock nut - easy peasy so the adjustment stem does turn when ya retighten the lock nut and mess up your valve clearance adjustment job...

I am still not sure where the whole heat management pitch comes into play as I see it as having more to do with it being a basic hydraulic lifter scenario only it's serving double duty cause one pushrod is now opening two valves BUT,, again,, I am a simpleton and by no means a BYM...

In the future... please misquote the manual... properly.

0.0016" is the same thing as ZERO. So is 0.0018

The spec denotes no improved metallurgy regarding heat. The hydraulic adjuster may have enough stack to allow for as much as 5/32" of play while still keeping valve clearance to zero. Intake and exhaust.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112624

 

See 4 hydraulic lifters as number 15 and you will see in the valve train where they are located and how they function.

Adjuster screw and nut 10 and 11 just make that side zero too.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112625

 

 

Victory Motorcycles hated this setup as it is famous for twist wear as pointed out in one of their videos.

1.56 in following video

 

 

So... we are happy for you and your new bike and hope you enjoy it now that you more properly understand some items about it.

Alright, Du-Rron, I'll stand down.

Cheers!

I might be confused a bit. But them there valve clearances seem a bit tight. Maybe 1 to many zeros? .016? sixteen thousandths. Dont really matter to me, the Vic is hydraulic.

The Yamaha uses a hydraulic lifter as well and I bet as these bikes get some miles on them we are going to find that they don't need valve adjustments just like the folks who ride Goldwings, those bikes over the years never had their valve covers cracked open to check their valve clearance and the ones that did rarely was one found to need an adjustment.

In the future... please misquote the manual... properly.

0.0016" is the same thing as ZERO. So is 0.0018

The spec denotes no improved metallurgy regarding heat. The hydraulic adjuster may have enough stack to allow for as much as 5/32" of play while still keeping valve clearance to zero. Intake and exhaust.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112624

 

See 4 hydraulic lifters as number 15 and you will see in the valve train where they are located and how they function.

Adjuster screw and nut 10 and 11 just make that side zero too.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112625

 

 

Victory Motorcycles hated this setup as it is famous for twist wear as pointed out in one of their videos.

1.56 in following video

 

 

So... we are happy for you and your new bike and hope you enjoy it now that you more properly understand some items about it.

I will trust Yamaha's engineering over Polaris any day of the week. Polaris got a lot wrong on the Victory's like porous cylinder heads that leaked oil, a recall that stopped the sale of all Victory's for a time because they failed to properly tighten to specs a part inside the engine. We won't even get into how many years it took Polaris to finally get their transmission worked out, oh and lets not forget about how you can destroy the starting system on a Victory if the engine backfires upon start up.

LOL, ok I opened the video you provided and that is one of the infamous Mike Schultz videos from Arizona Victory, he got a lot wrong in those videos as he did a series of them and even Victory owners were shooting him down on a lot of things he said in those videos.

Those videos are not from Polaris/Victory but rather a Victory dealer who took it upon themselves to make them.

Also didn't Arizona Victory shut down one of their two Victory dealers in Arizona leaving a mess for Victory owners to sort out that had their bikes in for service work, this was all before Victory shut down by the way.

The Yamaha uses a hydraulic lifter as well and I bet as these bikes get some miles on them we are going to find that they don't need valve adjustments just like the folks who ride Goldwings, those bikes over the years never had their valve covers cracked open to check their valve clearance and the ones that did rarely was oce found to need an adjustment.

Thats a good point American. Makes me wonder if since this motor is completely re-designed inside from the Raider engine, could this first year with valve clearance checks being conducted be BETA TESTING? WE are putting the miles on and confirming “fleet wide” IF on future models that requirement will be removed? Just a thought.

Thats a good point American. Makes me wonder if since this motor is completely re-designed inside from the Raider engine, could this first year with valve clearance checks being conducted be BETA TESTING? WE are putting the miles on and confirming “fleet wide” IF on future models that requirement will be removed? Just a thought.

I am sure Yamaha has just erred on the side of caution and it will ultimately be a non issue in the future. Yamaha really put a lot of engineering they learned over the years into this engine like ceramic coated cylinder bores, you won't find that on any Victory.

It looks like you may the first to 16,000 miles so if you check the valves or have them checked at the dealer please do post the results.

I will do the same as I purchased a maintenance contract that covers all required maintenance in the owners manual for the first the three years I own the bike unlimited mileage.

Thats a good point American. Makes me wonder if since this motor is completely re-designed inside from the Raider engine, could this first year with valve clearance checks being conducted be BETA TESTING? WE are putting the miles on and confirming “fleet wide” IF on future models that requirement will be removed? Just a thought.

Actually it's not a complete redesign of the 113, the bottom end is the only complete redesign, most of the top end goes all the way to the 06 Strat 113. I had read a similar comment about this but when I looked at the cutaway under glass, the top end looked very familiar and I asked about it and was told that very few changes were made on the top end design. Here is a parts shot of a Raider 113,, notice the adjusters on the ends of the rockers for the second set of valves on each one?

and a link to the diagram:

https://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/500479fef8700209bc798ae5/valve

Actually it's not a complete redesign of the 113, the bottom end is the only complete redesign, most of the top end goes all the way to the 06 Strat 113. I had read a similar comment about this but when I looked at the cutaway under glass, the top end looked very familiar and I asked about it and was told that very few changes were made on the top end design. Here is a parts shot of a Raider 113,, notice the adjusters on the ends of the rockers for the second set of valves on each one?

 

https://ea77029b4c67f377227e-af9c1546fb6085fe42babe3fe5c6addf.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/yam/mcy/2010/xv19czr_czs_czcr_czcs/valve/assembly_files/10/1_0.pngand a link to the diagram:

https://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/500479fef8700209bc798ae5/valve

Does anyone know the end results of the many miles on this valve train design on those earlier engines what the end results were of valve clearance checks?

That would be a good indicator of how this engine will be in regard to valve clearance as well.

I did some google searches on the 113 CI engine in the Stratoliner/Raider about adjusting the valves and it seems it has not been a problem in the older engines, I did find one repair shop who claimed that he performs first services on those bikes and has found the valves to be out of adjustment at only 10,000 miles, now who does their first service at 10,000 miles, I suspect he is just trying to scare in service work.

One person did not check his Stratoliner 113 until 50,000 miles and he said they did not require any adjustment so from what I have researched as limited as I did it is appearing we are not going to have an issue with the valves falling out of spec as the top end of this engine has been in service for over a decade.

Yamaha has provided the ability to adjust the valves and provided their mileage to do said check of the valves, notice it is a check not an adjustment, you only adjust them if they are found to be out of spec.

A lot of people said their Yamaha techs told them they have found it not necessary to adjust the valve unless they get noisy.

My take on it is if you are running a quality synthetic oil with ester or PAO with ester added you will not have any issues with the valve train on these 113 CI engines.

From the past history of this valve train in the Stratorliner/Raider bikes I think it is a proven sound design.

So now Im confused more. Is tber a required valve adjustment for the new Venture? At that .0016 in I wouldnt have any feeler gauges that work. Not sure I could find any either.

Valve adjustment required.

No feeler gauges required.

Feather touch-down adjuster on valve till there is no clearance. I mean lightly... feather soft...kiss the adjuster on the valve stem. Tighten lock-nut.

Done.

The spec is for Zero inches to Sixteen Ten Thousands.

Sixteen ten thousands is about the width of a beer-fart.

Less than a burrito-fart however.

I will trust Yamaha's engineering over Polaris any day of the week. Polaris got a lot wrong on the Victory's like porous cylinder heads that leaked oil, a recall that stopped the sale of all Victory's for a time because they failed to properly tighten to specs a part inside the engine. We won't even get into how many years it took Polaris to finally get their transmission worked out, oh and lets not forget about how you can destroy the starting system on a Victory if the engine backfires upon start up.

 

LOL, ok I opened the video you provided and that is one of the infamous Mike Schultz videos from Arizona Victory, he got a lot wrong in those videos as he did a series of them and even Victory owners were shooting him down on a lot of things he said in those videos.

 

Those videos are not from Polaris/Victory but rather a Victory dealer who took it upon themselves to make them.

 

Also didn't Arizona Victory shut down one of their two Victory dealers in Arizona leaving a mess for Victory owners to sort out that had their bikes in for service work, this was all before Victory shut down by the way.

Ok, maybe I should not have used this Video to illustrate a known problem with Harleys. Not trying to pick a "Victory" war. Lets look closer at the message and not the messenger (the video).

The problem with Harleys are their off-center rocker arm design.

The Yamaha has the same design.

Valve adjustment required.

No feeler gauges required.

Feather touch-down adjuster on valve till there is no clearance. I mean lightly... feather soft...kiss the adjuster on the valve stem. Tighten lock-nut.

Done.

 

The spec is for Zero inches to Sixteen Ten Thousands.

Sixteen ten thousands is about the width of a beer-fart.

Less than a burrito-fart however.

A valve clearance check is in the scheduled maintenance that does not mean the valves have to be adjusted, they only get adjusted if they are found to be out of adjustment with the spec being .000 to .0016 and you can buy feeler gauges that meet those specs, I have two sets of feeler gages in my tool box that I have owned for a good 38 years now that will meet the Yamaha specs.

If you check the valves and they are within .000 to .0016 that falls within the tolerance in the manual. If you are over .0016 then you need to adjust the rocker arm for the valves.

Like I already posted this is a tried and proven valve train that has been used for over a decade in Yamaha's 113 CI engines and one owner did not do a valve check until he had 50,000 miles on the engine and his valves were still in spec not needing any adjustment. Pretty much everything I found was the same, this design does not have a problem staying in spec likely due to the use of the hydraulic lifters used.

I don't see valves going out of adjustment being a problem with this 113 CI engine.

Ok, maybe I should not have used this Video to illustrate a known problem with Harleys. Not trying to pick a "Victory" war. Lets look closer at the message and not the messenger (the video).

 

 

 

The problem with Harleys are their off-center rocker arm design.

The Yamaha has the same design.

No war trying to be started but Mike Schultz of Arizona Victory has even been criticized by Victory owners for a lot of what he said in those videos he did.

I just want to make it clear those videos are not from Victory nor have they ever been endorsed by Victory and they sure as heck where not a decision in their design of the Victory engine which is an over head cam engine.

I've also printed out the special tools pages, and will be ordering their valve clearance gauges, the drive belt tension gauge, the tappet adjusting tool, the USB Yamaha Diagnostic tool, and the oil filter wrench head. I normally hand torque my filters...but on this bike...I want to know by Torque Wrench that it will be the 13 foot pounds it calls for.

I know what it is like to have a new bike and want to do right by it. But, I would NOT spend the money to order tools from Yamaha off their special tools page. Other options are available much more economically.

... valve clearance gauges

Don't need em. Just set each adjustable one to ZERO and you are done.

... drive belt tension gauge

I would get one, but it would not be from Yamaha unless they can do it for the same price as the on-line retailers. My dealer wants my business so he matches prices on everything from batteries to tires. Check pricing on-line first then check with the dealer.

... tappet adjusting tool

Don't need it.

... USB Yamaha Diagnostics Tool

Do you have sufficient knowledge, ability, tools, and time to work on anything this tool would tell you?

Also, you have a one year warranty and a four year extra service contract. Probably not gonna work on any of those electrics anytime soon.

I would not get this USB Tool just yet. After a few years somebody on here will get one and then you can just pass it around when you need it.

You will be slinging tires on-off this bike more than you will be needing to plug in this tool.

... oil filter wrench head

A large screw driver and hammer will work wonders. I bet you already have these so they are essentially free.

... I want to know by Torque Wrench that it will be the 13 foot pounds it calls for.

Harbor Freight. $15 for a 3/8 drive. However, if you will just give that oil filter a 3/4 to 1 full turn after it contacts the gasket you will have the job done correctly.

Then... we can have an OIL-FILTER WAR later on.

Heres a tid bit I found. "Copy paper is about 0.004 inches thick" Thats pretty tight. So if you feel slack its to much. When engine warm clearance would be 0

I owned a 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour only mine was red, I put 44,000 miles on that bike and being that I have owned the Victory and now own the Star Venture I can tell you from first hand ownership experience that the Yamaha Star Venture Transcontinental is hands down a better performing motorcycle than my 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour was and I liked my Victory, it was a good bike but it did not handle as good as this Star Venture does, the Victory was more top heavy and while I did not find the Victory overly hard to maneuver in parking lots and slow speeds the Star Venture handles even better at parking lot speeds and slow speeds in general.

As for cornering the Victory is no match for the Star Venture, while the Victory is a very competent bike handling wise, the Star Venture is just better, the Star Venture just drops into a turn and feels so good a much better feeling than the Victory had.

I am not knocking the Victory, I liked mine but the truth is the Star Venture is just a better motorcycle than the Victory was.

I know what it is like to have a new bike and want to do right by it. But, I would NOT spend the money to order tools from Yamaha off their special tools page. Other options are available much more economically.

 

 

Don't need em. Just set each adjustable one to ZERO and you are done.

 

 

I would get one, but it would not be from Yamaha unless they can do it for the same price as the on-line retailers. My dealer wants my business so he matches prices on everything from batteries to tires. Check pricing on-line first then check with the dealer.

 

 

Don't need it.

 

 

Do you have sufficient knowledge, ability, tools, and time to work on anything this tool would tell you?

Also, you have a one year warranty and a four year extra service contract. Probably not gonna work on any of those electrics anytime soon.

I would not get this USB Tool just yet. After a few years somebody on here will get one and then you can just pass it around when you need it.

You will be slinging tires on-off this bike more than you will be needing to plug in this tool.

 

 

A large screw driver and hammer will work wonders. I bet you already have these so they are essentially free.

 

 

Harbor Freight. $15 for a 3/8 drive. However, if you will just give that oil filter a 3/4 to 1 full turn after it contacts the gasket you will have the job done correctly.

Then... we can have an OIL-FILTER WAR later on.

I would never buy a Harbor Freight torque wrench, to many have been found to be defective by people over the years. Hoping you did not get a defective one after breaking off a critical bolt or strip a critical thread is not the time to find out you got a el cheap defective torque wrench.

Buy a CDI torque wrench at least, they are owned by Snap On Tools but you can get the CDI branded torque wrenches much cheaper than the Snap On branded torque wrenches.

You can buy CDI torque wrenches at this link and they have sales a few times each year.

https://www.protorquetools.com

I own Snap On torque wrenches and one CDI inch pound torque wrench. The difference between the CDI and Snap On torque wrenches is the Snap On will have a little nicer handle i.e. a little bigger around to grip with. CDI are the same outside of the size and ergonomics of the handle and like I said they are owned by Snap On and make all the Snap On torque wrenches.

I don't see valves going out of adjustment being a problem with this 113 CI engine.

Since this is a hydraulic engine with JUST FOUR screw & lock-nut adjusters... If I am gonna spend the time to pop the lids then I am sure as heck gonna spend all of 15 seconds per each adjuster to get them back to Zero. Wouldn't make sense to spend all the time taking the tank and plastics off to just LOOK at the adjusters. It's a screw and lock-nut... fifteen seconds more time and you get back to zero with absolutely no problems.

It will take you more time to drink one beer, than it will to adjust the valves (those FOUR SCREW & LOCK-NUT adjusters) starting when you get the valve covers off.

VERSUS

On a 2nd Gen Venture you have to remove and replace SIXTEEN precision ground shims of all different sizes since it is a shim-over-bucket engine. This takes hours and then you have to order the correct size replacement shims or have some already ready to go to get the thing back together.

Be prepared with cases of beer and you might as well call in sick tomorrow because you WILL have a hang-over by the time you get this beast back together.