Fork leaking

Okay left side of the forks dripping. About the size of a dollar bill since 9:30 last night to 6:30 this morning. You can see the drip Trail in these pictures and also an accumulation on the brake rotor. It's oily also and doesn't feel like hydraulic fluid. One of the things I paid to have done last year was to switch to all braided brake lines but all those connections seem good and dry but now I'm wondering if it's leaking around the calipers or something. I really think it's from the fork and riding the 9 miles that I rode it home yesterday. (Or maybe the mechanic did some wheelies on his test ride because it did not drip before I took it to him this time with none of the plastic on it?) It did sit outside at the mechanic shop for 12 days of up and down temperatures from 20° to 60° and some snow and rain which I understand will make your rotors rust but only the left one? And the wear pattern not covering the entire rotor down to the center makes me wonder about the brakes. Maybe the pads don't go all the way down on the rotor like they do on my car on which rubs the rust off the entire rotor the first time I hit the brakes?

 

The forks had new seals and Springs put in by previous owner (professionally) 3 years and less than 2500 miles ago.

 

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Edited April 22, 2018 by s.tyler58

When I checked the pressure in the fork before taking it to the mechanic it had 12 pounds in it so I didn't change it. I couldn't have blown out a seal that way.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Driving home yesterday from the shop I thought maybe I had a low front tire but I had just put it at 31 pounds before taking it to the shop. It was probably a soft Fork.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Here's the hilarious part...

 

14 months and $4,000 ago I thought I was buying an economical Rider with 150,000 miles left on her. The Longest Ride that I've had was 250 miles between repairs and I'm still not chasing the front wheel even though spring looks like it might finally be here for real.

 

After 23 years as a medical sales rep I had positioned myself to be able to take Friday afternoons off and ride all weekend. That dream ended in March when I lost my job. ( I survived 4 different corporations buying business I was in, a downsizing, a year of waiting out my no-compete starting my own business selling it to another guy and working for him but I couldn't survive the effing Affordable Care Act. Being in Home Health 4 Orthopedics and Sports Medicine, they just don't pay for my s*** anymore and having turned 60 last month, 3 days before being let go, I just didn't have the drive to start new products again knocking on the same damn doors I've been walking through for years. It wasn't so much that I was let go as we just decided I didn't care anymore. Burnouts a b****!) Now I'm getting paid through the end of May, Spring is a month late and I'm thinking about going back into car sales which will eliminate any two days off in a row 4 the rest of my life. Dreams die hard Brothers.

 

On the good side, I have some pretty new tools and I'm learning to do the work myself! I guess I was supposed to become a mechanic and not a touring guy.

 

 

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Edited April 22, 2018 by s.tyler58

If it's a fork seal it'll be leaking at the seal - where the inner passes into the outer. It'll gather dirt leaving dirty rings on the inner fork tube and an oily dirty mess running down the outer.

 

Your pictures are down at the axle/caliper so can't see those areas. What I can see of the outer fork tube doesn't seem to have any oil.

 

The drop hanging from your caliper looks pretty clean for fork oil with miles on it. Unless the forks have recently been rebuilt I'd suspect it's brake fluid.

 

** LOOKING BACK AT YOUR PICTURES IT LOOKS LIKE THERE MIGHT BE BRAKE FLUID PUDDLED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ANTI-DIVE BLEED NIPPLE. IS IT SNUG? **

If it's a fork seal it'll be leaking at the seal - where the inner passes into the outer. It'll gather dirt leaving dirty rings on the inner fork tube and an oily dirty mess running down the outer.

 

Your pictures are down at the axle/caliper so can't see those areas. What I can see of the outer fork tube doesn't seem to have any oil.

 

The drop hanging from your caliper looks pretty clean for fork oil with miles on it. Unless the forks have recently been rebuilt I'd suspect it's brake fluid.

 

** LOOKING BACK AT YOUR PICTURES IT LOOKS LIKE THERE MIGHT BE BRAKE FLUID PUDDLED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ANTI-DIVE BLEED NIPPLE. IS IT SNUG? **

Yes the bleed petcock has fluid sitting in the top of it. It is tight. Perhaps I just need a new one of those. The top of the forks the slides are fine. I was wondering about the gasket where the unit attaches to the cooling fins at the bottom of the fork also. The last thing the mechanics did was to fill the rear brake reservoir and bleed the brakes but there shouldn't have been any reason for them to bleed the suspension at this time.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Caliper

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

If it's a fork seal it'll be leaking at the seal - where the inner passes into the outer. It'll gather dirt leaving dirty rings on the inner fork tube and an oily dirty mess running down the outer.

 

Your pictures are down at the axle/caliper so can't see those areas. What I can see of the outer fork tube doesn't seem to have any oil.

 

The drop hanging from your caliper looks pretty clean for fork oil with miles on it. Unless the forks have recently been rebuilt I'd suspect it's brake fluid.

 

** LOOKING BACK AT YOUR PICTURES IT LOOKS LIKE THERE MIGHT BE BRAKE FLUID PUDDLED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ANTI-DIVE BLEED NIPPLE. IS IT SNUG? **

Upon further inspection, and I went ahead and wiped everything off, I believe you are correct that it's at the petcock. It is tight. My lift is at my office 3 miles away so I'll head up there to take the weight off and see if I can pull that petcock out. Man I hope they didn't strip it. Yamaha is open today so I should be able to pick up some fork oil but have no idea how much I would need to put back in there or how to go about it.

 

I'm also going to have to get out the quick Weld and replace my drain tube off my radiator and that will take a day to dry and be nice and solid but if I can get that all done today, it's supposed to be beautiful here again tomorrow. Fingers crossed that maybe tomorrow I can get a few hours in the saddle. (Toes crossed too!)

 

Meanwhile my car which is my only other transportation is sitting in front of the mechanic shop 10 miles away...

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

s.tyler,

I may be misunderstanding what you are saying, but the anti dive system operates with the brakes and, as MiCarl stated that fluid looks like new, clean brake fluid rather than fork oil. You should be able to pick up a bleeder valve at any auto parts store. They usually have many different sizes on the shelf. Take it with you to match up.

 

Is the radiator drain tube you are talking about the one that comes off the elbow on top of the coolant overflow tank? If so, that elbow is replaceable and again, most auto parts stores will have something in stock to replace it. I had to replace mine when I broke off trying to remove the drain/vent hose the first time I pulled the fairing an The Beast.

Edited April 22, 2018 by luvmy40

I guess I was supposed to become a mechanic and not a touring guy..

 

Often times our plans get changed for a good reason. Seems every time I get frustrated my life isn't going according to my plans, turns out the man upstairs had a better plan. Get that bike fixed and go riding. if it's your anti dive nipple, and it doesn't just snug up, maybe one wrap with plumbing teflon tape would seal threads ?

Often times our plans get changed for a good reason. Seems every time I get frustrated my life isn't going according to my plans, turns out the man upstairs had a better plan. Get that bike fixed and go riding. if it's your anti dive nipple, and it doesn't just snug up, maybe one wrap with plumbing teflon tape would seal threads ?

If you'd like to hear God laugh, just tell him your plans!

 

The circumstances that brought about the conversation with my business owner just had too many bizarre coincidences to be anything other than the hand of God. It was time. My heavenly father, who loves every hair on my head, who knows that I'm just stubborn enough that it takes a two by four across the nose to let me know that I'm supposed to be doing something else. And praise be to him that he loves me enough to knock me out when it's time or 5 years past time. So I believe there is a plan and a path and now I'm just waiting for clarity as to what those are. Really what's the worst that can happen? Bankruptcy? Sure it sucks and it would be a real blow to my pride, but I don't think He wants that for me after all that we've been through already. Faith, praise, patience, and prayer will lead me to His path. I'm sorry if that's too much for some of you but if you look at my signature line, you'll see that I have never made much effort to store my treasures here. Since leaving that job, I have been able to gain 10 lbs. And am happier than I've been in a long time. Sometimes I just get overwhelmed by stupid stuff and vent. He's got this, I trust Him.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Edited April 22, 2018 by s.tyler58

s.tyler,

I may be misunderstanding what you are saying, but the anti dive system operates with the brakes and, as MiCarl stated that fluid looks like new, clean brake fluid rather than fork oil. You should be able to pick up a bleeder valve at any auto parts store. They usually have many different sizes on the shelf. Take it with you to match up.

 

Is the radiator drain tube you are talking about the one that comes off the elbow on top of the coolant overflow tank? If so, that elbow is replaceable and again, most auto parts stores will have something in stock to replace it. I had to replace mine when I broke off trying to remove the drain/vent hose the first time I pulled the fairing an The Beast.

The brake caliper and it's bleeder are behind the fork and are dry. This is on the front and is a thicker fluid like fork oil compared to brake fluid. Smells like oil too. It's definitely clean and transparent with a green tint.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

s.tyler,

I may be misunderstanding what you are saying, but the anti dive system operates with the brakes and, as MiCarl stated that fluid looks like new, clean brake fluid rather than fork oil. You should be able to pick up a bleeder valve at any auto parts store. They usually have many different sizes on the shelf. Take it with you to match up.

 

Is the radiator drain tube you are talking about the one that comes off the elbow on top of the coolant overflow tank? If so, that elbow is replaceable and again, most auto parts stores will have something in stock to replace it. I had to replace mine when I broke off trying to remove the drain/vent hose the first time I pulled the fairing an The Beast.

It's on the radiator throat where the drain tube originates to go up to the bottle. It breaks off every time the mechanic has my bike. Don't ask me why. Even when I take it to him with none of the Plastics on it except the false tank cover. I've had to fix it about 4 times and can usually get a really good seal until it gets bumped pretty hard. Which never seems to happen when I have it and work on stuff. But then we always take better care than people who don't own the bikes.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

"Get that bike fixed and go riding. if it's your anti dive nipple, and it doesn't just snug up, maybe one wrap with plumbing teflon tape would seal threads ?"

 

Great minds..., I was thinking along the same lines and will pick up another one in case. I hope it's not cross threaded. I don't understand why it would have been touched in the last 3 months to begin with though. Why would it start leaking now unless someone went to bleed the brakes from the wrong spot? And when I refer to someone it's not myself screwing up like I am prone to do sometimes. It's really somebody else did something while it was out of my hands. It's just weird that it would show up out of the blue after it's been perfect all this time

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

What did the Calvinist say when he fell down the stairs?

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

"Sure glad that's over!"

 

Calvinists believe that everything in their life is preordained

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

It's just weird that it would show up out of the blue after it's been perfect all this time

 

 

Gremlins

 

 

or maybe just a shift in temperature?

The brake caliper and it's bleeder are behind the fork and are dry. This is on the front and is a thicker fluid like fork oil compared to brake fluid. Smells like oil too. It's definitely clean and transparent with a green tint.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

 

 

That bleeder is still bleeding brake fluid, it's just from the anti dive valve. It may be fork oil leaking from the seal between the anti dive and the fork tube...

That bleeder is still bleeding brake fluid, it's just from the anti dive valve. It may be fork oil leaking from the seal between the anti dive and the fork tube...

Okay I'm back to the office / shop. I wiped it all down the bleeder is fine on the anti dive. According to the diagram below it looks like I need new O-rings in there. I was able to tighten that cover from the two front bolts left and right just a smidge so maybe that'll fix it but I don't know yet . The amount it's leaking makes me think it's the O-rings . I don't see any gasket between there in the assembly .

 

In the second diagram I need to adjust my shift lever assembly to be able to shift with my heel properly. Mechanic told me I need to adjust that as its zeroed out? He said there are markings on it. Didn't ask the dern fool why he just didn't adjust it when he found that to be the issue. He says this is why my shifter spins a quarter turn upwards from having to work so hard to get first gear. Doesn't look like I can do that on my lift because of where the lift sits. Do I have to pull the collector or back wheel to get in there?

 

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I found this post but snaggletooth isn't replying to pm from a week ago. Is Skydoc a member or a company?

 

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SkyDoc_17

 

a member, here is a link. Use to be on here all the time, very knowledgeable guy

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?4738-skydoc_17

They're on their way!

 

Also, you guys probably already know this but while I was with my mechanic he called his contact at Yamaha and found out that each Fork side takes 400ML/CC of fork oil. That way I was able to just fill the one side after draining it.

 

We tried to look it up on the bel-ray conversion site but that thing was put together by somebody who was high! They had yamasuki and other such insane manufacturers. Mostly Chinese I think

 

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They're on their way!

 

Also, you guys probably already know this but while I was with my mechanic he called his contact at Yamaha and found out that each Fork side takes 400ML/CC of fork oil. That way I was able to just fill the one side after draining it.

The most important thing to note here is that both forks must be filled the same or there will be handling issues. If the forks are filled to a certain level, as in 5" from the top when the forks are collapsed, that will work well. If one fork is not well drained before adding the 400 ml of fluid there is a possibility of the two forks being unequal. This is a bad thing. Depending on whether the fork springs are OEM or progressive can also affect how much fluid is needed.

The most important thing to note here is that both forks must be filled the same or there will be handling issues. If the forks are filled to a certain level, as in 5" from the top when the forks are collapsed, that will work well. If one fork is not well drained before adding the 400 ml of fluid there is a possibility of the two forks being unequal. This is a bad thing. Depending on whether the fork springs are OEM or progressive can also affect how much fluid is needed.

Great to know. I'm supposed to get new progressives by Monday. Still don't know how I'm going to seal off without the anti dives as I haven't had a reply from Skydoc_17 yet. Know of another solution other than his caps/covers?

 

It was not handling great yesterday.

 

I started moving my work area home from my old office/ shop today. Hope to have my garage set back by end of day tomorrow. (I`m optistically choosing to believe that Spring is here finally so won't need the heated space 3 miles from home anymore)

 

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Edited April 26, 2018 by s.tyler58

Hoping there are some videos around to show me how to do the springs. Hate the thought of taking the fairing off again as over a third of the mounting tabs/plastic and nuts on tabs are already busted off from Previous owners.

 

I still don't understand why new o-rings only slowed the leak instead of stopping it.

 

What other parts do need to complete the conversion to progressives? Can I reuse the seals that are 3 yr old with very few miles on them and are working fine??

 

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Edited April 26, 2018 by s.tyler58

Hoping there are some videos around to show me how to do the springs. Hate the thought of taking the fairing off again as over a third of the mounting tabs/plastic and nuts on tabs are already busted off from Previous owners.

It is not necessary to remove the fairing to change the springs. You need a small wrench or socket to loosen the clamp bolt closest to the top cap. The top cap can be removed using a common SAE bolt and pair of nuts. Either a 1/2" or 9/16"...can't remember exactly. When you get close to removing the cap it is very important to put a lot of down pressure on it since it is under tension. Putting the cap back in is the hardest because if you are not careful the very fine threads can get stripped.

 

Before you start removing the caps, block the engine and remove the front wheel. After removing the caps, collapse the forks, pull the old spring out and put the new spring in. To get the right oil level measure from the top down to the oil should be 5" on each. This method is more accurate than measuring the amount of oil you put in. Also, the Progressives are thicker than the OEM and will displace more oil which can mess up your calculations.

 

I still don't understand why new o-rings only slowed the leak instead of stopping it.

 

What other parts do need to complete the conversion to progressives? Can I reuse the seals that are 3 yr old with very few miles on them and are working fine??

To work properly the seals need to be the right diameter and the right thickness. There cannot be any dirt or dents that will prevent the plate from evenly compressing the o-rings to get a good seal. All bolts should be torqued to the same amount so the plate is mounted perfectly flat. Probably using OEM o-rings is the best option to make sure the size is correct.