Jump to content
IGNORED

Sidestand check


Recommended Posts

It is time that you should check your side stand, either while leaning away or on the center stand. Move the tip up and down and if you have more than an 1/8th play, you need to look at what it will take to remove the play. These side stands will take an enormous amount of abuse as long as they are kept snug. But let it get loose and you will be breaking things.

I can assure you that it is not fun to be on a trip and have a side stand failure.

Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I just checked mine and found that the bolt was tight but the stand (when extended) had a lot of up and down play. I think the clamp has widen from a loose bolt and the bike's weight leaning on it. Is that the play that this thread wants me to address??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just checked mine and found that the bolt was tight but the stand (when extended) had a lot of up and down play. I think the clamp has widen from a loose bolt and the bike's weight leaning on it. Is that the play that this thread wants me to address??
Mine too. My bolt won't budge. Nothing cracked.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, That is exactly what this fix takes care of. My shouldered bolt was tight, just the jamb nut was loose, but I had an inch and a half, give or take of up and down play in the side stand when on the center stand. The Beast was leaning way too much when on the side stand.

 

There's a thread thad has pics of the repair somewhere. But it really is simple. I used grade 8, 1/2" hardware. The thread I mentioned used M12-1.25 hardened parts. The 1/2" stuff requires a little more drilling than the M12 but I think it tightens things up better.

 

I used a 1/2"-13x2" lag bolt and two 1/2"-13 nuts. I couldn't find a 1/2"-13 jamb nut so I just cut a regular nut in half with a right angle grinder and cut off wheel.

 

Try to get a lag just a bit shorter than the shoulder on the OEM bolt. The lag should be long enough to extend through the top ear of the side stand, through the mounting tab and into the bottom ear but not through the bottom ear. Mine was just barely to the bottom ear.

 

Drill the holes in the ears on side stand and the hole in the mounting tab out to 1/2". This drilled very easily with a cordless drill on low speed as you are not removing much stock at all. With the M12 hardware, I believe you only need to drill out the threads on the bottom ear of the side stand. I don't remember what size drill was recommended.

 

Stick the bolt through the side stand and thread the nut and jamb nut on finger tight. Mark the length of the bolt flush with the jamb nut and cut it off.

 

Remount the side stand on the bike. Tighten the first nut up until there is little to no up and down movement of the side stand but it still moves easily. Then lock it up with the jamb nut. A little medium strength LocTite wouldn't hurt but I didn't bother with it since that's exactly what the jamb nut is for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

I just did this repair on my 86VR.

Here are the parts that I used, which are available from McMaster-Carr.

Shoulder Screw, 1/2" Diameter 1" Long Shoulder, 3/8"-16 Thread

91259A712p1-b01-digitall@2x_636628495684932560.png.9f67e91f8e2202dd2da2137440e722f8.png

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3513

2070257570_ScreenShot2022-03-18at7_04_00AM.thumb.png.a928a1be034426094d2d9dc688bc34f3.png

3088A932 Low-Carbon Steel Round Shim Set, 1/2" ID

3088A936p1@2x_636976571252430734.png.c1ced7421598a343a8032cc80e8e7804.png

I chose the 1/2" shoulder bolt in case the hole in the side stand and/or the mounting tab were worn oversize.

 

I pulled the side stand and set it up in a mill to ream out the hole and threaded side to 0.500". This could also be done with just a 1/2" drill bit and in a drill press.

If a mill or drill press isn't available, it could be done with a hand drill if you take care to keep things lined up and solid so as to not drill/ream oversize.

I did use a hand drill to ream the mounting tab.

The 1" long shoulder bolt should be the correct length.

The shims can be used under the head of the shoulder bolt to tighten things up a bit if the side stand and/or the mounting tab are worn.

The oversized locknut doesn't require a washer.

While mine wasn't as loose as some have described, it did tighten up nicely and operates smoothly with virtually no play.

 

Argo

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...