Valve shimming issue

While resizing some shims in my 93 I created a problem that I am hoping one of you fine folks can assist with. I had just installed a new intake shim on cylinder # 2, as I turned the crankshaft to release the shimming tool the shim jumped forward out of the bucket and was slightly jambed. After retrieving the shim, I turned the crank to move the tool back into position but it slid over slightly onto the empty bucket. I then loosened the tool and tried again but each time the tool slides over on to the empty bucket in the last 1/4 inch before it reaches full height needed to put the shim in. I have tried slotting the tool on both sides of the cam with the same result. is it advisable to try and force the shim in without the proper clearance? I did note examining the shimming tool it appears to be engineered to operate with both shims in. Any suggestions out there would be most appreciated.

Bobber

It should depress the bucket with or without a shim. But it sounds like because there is no shim in place when you get almost fully compressed the pressure kicks the tool over. So if I'm getting this rite, maybe take the thinnest shim you have and use tool to depress before it kicks over and insert shim. I think if you get it in enough to keep from kicking over you may be able to work the shim in place. Once you get a smaller shim in, then you can align tool and try to get the correct size in there. Any of this make sense?

Thanks for the reply. It sounds like an excellent place to start. One thing I do have is lots of shims so I'll give it a go and let you know. Thanks again.

Bobber

Just an update on my shimming issue. I installed a thinner shim as suggested by djh3 and then reinserted the shimming tool and "presto" it worked just like it was designed to do. I had the clearance needed to insert the proper shim and the job is now complete except for the valve covers of course. Thanks again to djh3 for taking the time to respond with good ole common sense advice. This site and its members always seem to pull through.

Bobber

Just glad it worked. When I did mine I thought the tool lacked a lot to be desired as far as design. I know from reading threads you dont want to stress it very much. They are cast so not real strong if in a bind. I think flyinfool was machining some and they would be a much strudier tool

The tools that I made were a lot stronger than the OEM tool. As far as I know I was the only person that ever broke one of the latest design of my tool. The one that I broke was broke on purpose to test what the failure mode was. At $50 a pop I only tested one to failure. If you use the tool incorrectly it can be broken easily as long as it is fully seated and aligned correctly it will not break.

Regardless of which tool you use it is very important that you do NOT run the tool into the soft aluminum head. Crashing the tool into the head will do some difficult to repair damage. This was learned the hard way by a few members.

At the moment I think I have one or two tools left in stock If someone wants one I will dig into the pile to see what I have left.