Early model vs late model --1st Generation question...

Greetings,

New to the site. Previously owned an ’84 Venture (standard). Took a spill on it and have not ridden for many (many) years… but, ready to get another one. I’m considering any year model 1^st gen Venture (Royale this time). I have a couple of questions for the group:

--What are the differences in the ride of the early (83-85) 1^st gen year models --vs-- the later (86-93) 1^st gen year models?

--As I’m looking… what specific things do I need to be on the lookout for to find a good/reliable bike. (I am aware of the 2^nd gear issue, instrument panel connection issue).

Lastly, does anyone have a bike for sale?

Please tell it all, brothers... I'm wanting to make an informed decision here.

I look forward to reading more of your posts and getting answers/input for my questions.

Thanks, kindly!

Pwells

Greetings,

 

New to the site. Previously owned an ’84 Venture (standard). Took a spill on it and have not ridden for many (many) years… but, ready to get another one. I’m considering any year model 1^st gen Venture (Royale this time). I have a couple of questions for the group:

 

--What are the differences in the ride of the early (83-85) 1^st gen year models --vs-- the later (86-93) 1^st gen year models?

 

--As I’m looking… what specific things do I need to be on the lookout for to find a good/reliable bike. (I am aware of the 2^nd gear issue, instrument panel connection issue).

 

Lastly, does anyone have a bike for sale?

 

Please tell it all, brothers... I'm wanting to make an informed decision here.

 

I look forward to reading more of your posts and getting answers/input for my questions.

 

Thanks, kindly!

Pwells

Your talking about the instrument panel connection issue... are you talking about the plug itself or the sodering on the board.... I replaced dash on mine because last one was slightly light. I still have issues that are intermittent where I am out of gas,kickstand is down, low on oil, low on brake fluid.... the other warnings are bipassed but it gets annoying.... I have tried the zip tie trick but don't think I have that right. What area are you from. I know of a torn down 83 that is supposed to be a 1300 not sure if it is a royal or not. I will say the 87 a guy brought down to my house seemed it sat up higher. Well it did I had to TIP TOE with it, my 83 I sit flat footed...

I never rode the MKI but loved my 86 Royale. We bought an 07 recently, while I like the comfort it's nowhere near the hotrod the 1sr gens are. If you're ever near Murray KY I plan to sell the 86 soon. I just don't have the time to ride two.

Based on what I've read on this forum, there are several differences:

The front brakes on the 86 MKII up are much better. they have 4 piston calipers instead of 2 piston. The anti-dive feature is electrically powered rather and hydraulically powered which uses some of the brake pressure. Some owners have switched the MKII forks to the MK I Venture to improve braking.

Some 83s have frame issues.

2nd gear you know.

Starting in 91, they got a 4 brush more powerful starter. They will fit the earlier models. Any V4 1300 Yam engine starter from 91 up will work including the RSTDs and Gen II Ventures.

They say the 1200cc V4 is more powerful than the 1300. Don't know how much.

Proabably more but that's all I can remember at this time.

Overall, other than being just a tad slower than an MK1, the MK2 was a far superior bike over the MK1....

The front brakes on the 86 MKII up are much better. they have 4 piston calipers instead of 2 piston. The anti-dive feature is electrically powered rather and hydraulically powered which uses some of the brake pressure. Some owners have switched the MKII forks to the MK I to improve braking

You are correct about the Mk II calipers being better than the ones on the Mk I so the earlier Gen 1's need to be upgraded to the Mk II forks to enable fitting the newer style calipers. That's probably what you meant to say.

Probably all the Mk II Royales have an issue with the CLASS system connector being flaky. This results in intermittent errors disabling the system. It's an easy soldering fix so if you are looking at a bike with that problem you can use it as a bargaining point.

When I bought my 89, the rear and left front brake did not work well, serious sponge, so I got a lot of money off the asking price. After about 20 minutes to bleed the system, it had perfect brakes. An amazing number of so called mechanics don't know how to bleed brakes. On that, the Mk II's are much easier to bleed than the Mk I's because they have a bleed point at the head.

As Bob said, the later Gen 1's are better than the earlier ones but the condition of the bike is more important than whether it is a Mk I or a Mk II. That said, it is likely a good idea to stay away from a Mk I that is earlier than mid 85 which is when they fixed the 2nd gear issue.

Hey Paul,

Welcome to the forum! I always say, "knowledge is power"! There is nothing wrong with finding out what you're up against in advance before making a purchase. I copied this from the Tech section, I compiled this list of items when a member of the forum was shopping for a used VR a while back. You may find it useful.

Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. The 1990 bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1991 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. (4 brush starter upgrade) I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot!

If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking.

With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic.

While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected.

Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything.

Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF!

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

I compiled this list for a member that was looking at a 89'VR a few years ago, but this list can be used for ANY bike you are looking at. I personally think the MKI VR's were a bit more "nimble" than the MKII VR's. BUT things like the poor braking system, the hydraulic anti-dives, and the second gear problem make the MKII's a much better buy. With that being said, you will find much better deals on the MKI VR's because of the issues I mentioned. With winter coming, this is the PERFECT time of the year to shop for a used motorcycle. The thing you need to keep in mind when you are shopping for a 30 year old bike is the fact that EVERYTHING on these bikes is 30 years old! The second thing you need to keep in mind is the fact that if you don't LOVE to work on your own motorcycle, don't buy a 30 year old bike in the first place. Getting a "good deal" on a First Gen. motorcycle is NOT going to be a deal at all if you haul it to a Motorcycle Repair Shop and have 4 grand worth of work done to it just to get it to stop and go properly. Put that money into a much newer bike and just ride the thing. You don't need to be a "jet mechanic" to work on a Venture, but you do need the willingness to do the work, and a place to do it, and the tools to get the job done. There are many members on this forum that can walk you thru ANY repair that needs to be done on the Yamaha Venture. But if you have never twisted a wrench in your life, or you are afraid to get you hands dirty, or you are just a afraid of this machine in general, then I suggest you spend a bit more money, and purchase a newer motorcycle that doesn't need a complete rebuild and RIDE! Only you can honestly answer that question for yourself. I personally think that these bikes were one of the best motorcycles that were ever built, and there are great deals out there on them. But to get them to stop and go properly, you WILL be working on them! A lot in the beginning, and a lot less after you get them functioning properly. If this kind of project is "your cup of tea", then I wish you the best of luck in your search, if this is not, then be honest with yourself, and purchase a motorcycle that needs more ridin' than fixin'! Good luck with your search!

These are my thoughts, for what they are worth.

Earl

Hello VR World.

A couple of weeks ago I couldn't even spell Venture... now I own two (2) of them :-)! I appreciate the comments to my questions on this post. The comments helped! I ended up buying two later year 1st Gens... --and 87 VR and 86 VR. Both have the normal 'been sitting up too long' issues. I am working through the issues now (and reading tons of forum stuff!). Will have more questions soon, I'm sure.

Thanks,

Paul

Invest in the Damon Ferarro video on rebuilding and setting up the carbs, it's well worth it!!!

Invest in the Damon Ferarro video on rebuilding and setting up the carbs, it's well worth it!!!

I've heard good things about the video. I found Damon's email a few days ago in another thread and sent him an email asking how I could purchase a CD. I've not heard any reply yet.

Does anyone know anyone that has purchased anything from him recently?... or know of any other options for getting a CD? (I'm holding off on rebuilding the second set of carbs until I (hopefully) can get the video. Sounds like it would be worth it.

Thanks!

Pwells

I've had my '86 for sale locally but no one has been buying. It's ready to ride and I'll take $1000.00 for it.

Dave

Hello VR World.

A couple of weeks ago I couldn't even spell Venture... now I own two (2) of them :-)! I appreciate the comments to my questions on this post. The comments helped! I ended up buying two later year 1st Gens... --and 87 VR and 86 VR. Both have the normal 'been sitting up too long' issues. I am working through the issues now (and reading tons of forum stuff!). Will have more questions soon, I'm sure.

 

Thanks,

Paul

I can almost guarantee, my friend, that you are going to want to do the progressive spring conversion. If I remember right the springs are less than $100.

Hell I have a spare set of progressive springs that I'll sell ya if theyre still laying around