New Member Needs Help! Fuel just POURING - LOTS of Fuel!

UPDATE: 1306 10/8/2017

 

As you know I live in Long Beach, MS which just got run-over by hurricane Nate. Just lots and lots of rain. I didn't lose power but my mom did about 40 miles from me. I'm about 1.5 miles above the water, so we got that rain in buckets. At least it's gone now and it's nice outside.

 

Due to the hurricane, I let it sit for nearly 2+ days in the seafoam. Drained and retried---failed...also flushed it out fully with carb spray and no change.

 

No other option but to pull them now. If it's not hung up somehow and that float is bad then I'm DEEPLY concerned about how to fix it. Some people talk about using airplane dope, but if anything with MEK hits it I'm fully screwed. Does anyone know of anything that's used as a replacement float? Okay, yours isn't running. I didn't go back and read through the thread. But, Here is a link to some Yamaha maintenance videos that you may want to view sometimes. There are 12 of them.

 

 

 

I've never set float height before. If nothing is wrong with it I can pull the carbs and clean them out but setting that height is something I've never done. I'm working with the fact to just pull them and ONE at a TIME clean the piss out of them, get them back on the bike, and then synch ((if the bike runs at all...that's the million $$$ question right now...)) so I'm not planning to get any carb kits.

 

Anyone want to point me to the best link for carbs for these bike?

 

You can check the float level while on the bike. Hook a tube to the drain tube. I got a clear tube that fit tightly over the drain tube and held it up and the level is supposed to be to a certain point on the carb. Look in the manual where the details are given. You can check it with the engine running. At least you will know if the float levels are okay and if they are the floats are okay.

 

Edited October 8, 2017 by BlueSky

The floats are still available from Yamaha with the part number being 1FK-14985-00-00 and a retail price of $50.90 but can be had for $31.68 plus shipping.

I would check the float levels before pulling them off if the drain lines are sticking out of the brackets on each side of the bike. Service manual has a good explanation on how to do this and it can be done without pulling the carbs.

Setting the float level isnt too hard to get it close as the carb fuel bowl has some markings inside of it that help to get it close. We can give you some assistance and photos on what to look for if it comes to that.

Good luck and dont give up on it..

Rick F.

Update 10.19.17 The unending hell...

 

So, now back to working on the bike. I cannot get those carbs our. I've got the stack off the manifolds, but managed to break the holder for one of the carb throttle cables. Yet another problem of the unending hell that doesn't stop.

 

My biggest issue is that I have no friends so I have no one to help. Gets so lonely working on this bike and I've still yet to even see if it runs.

 

I was talking 2 a guy that fixes bikes and he wants me to stop because he just fixed a V-max and no issues getting the pack off. I'm so pissed about this I've started to remove one side of the manifolds but of course that's a new hell since I've got the stack in the way.

 

I'm sorry to vent. I'm really being nice in this posting as I'm not adding all the f-bombs this bike so richly deserves. I'm just sick of yet more unending stuff that looks like I've got to remove to get a SIMPLE CARB PACK off an engine!!!!

 

Pic is of the part I broke. Can it be TIG welded?

 

Again, sorry for the venting.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Hi CP,,, sorry to read about your frustrations here but I can certainly relate = these puppies can be finicky to say the least BUT - with just a little bit of tender finness - they will usually slide apart without to much time utilizing the 5 pound beater..

Looking at you pic of the broken carb part and going strickly from memory here,, to me it looks like you were attempting to remove the carb bank with the throttle cables still intact?? If this is so,, I have successfully taken a whole different to the carb bank removal.. What I do is unhook the choke cable from its link and move it aside. Lift the carb assembly up out of the intake manifolds and then back the throttle cable adjusters both up top and down below all the way back, then unhook the return cable at the throttle body and pull it out, now you can pull the pull cable up and outward to lay it down enough to slide the carb bank outside of the frame rail to the left side (same side as the choke cable attaches). Once out of the frame and with the carb setting upright with the choke side facing downward - you can know remove the pull cable from its guide in between the carbs and the carbs will be free..

I have been in your situation many times in my career of dealing with old scoots and totally understand your concerns about putting cold hard cash into something that you really truly have no clue whether or not your dealing with something that is just gonna end up as parts.. Here is thought and probably something along the line of what I would have done/would do if you handed me the bike at this time.. I would probably slide the carbs back in the intakes. I would disconnect the fuel pump at the harness so it was inoperatable. Pull the plugs, spin er up a couple times to make sure I didnt have a hydro lock potential. Check oil for gas contamination. Check oil and anti freeze levels. Spin er up a few times to encourage pre lube by oil pump. I would pull the slides on the carbs, patch up any torn diaphrams best I could with YamaBond and set em aside to cure. Drain the carbs, get a syringe from an ag store, fill syringe with gas and inject into float bowl drain until I saw fuel coming out metering rod hole and close drain - note how much fuel I injected to get slight fuel flow from metering rod hole. Inject the determined amount into each carb so all carbs are now loaded = Do all four carbs. Replace carb slides/diaphrams = make sure slides slide effortlessly - clean slides and carb bodies if slides are sticky. Pick up a set of NGK D8ES plugs, gap em to 32 thou, unscrew the plug caps from the wires, clip a 1/4 inch off each plug wire and screw it back on, put plugs in and wires on. Choke carbs with either choke lever of rag stuffed across carbs to prime er up and see if she will fire.. Should run till carbs go dry.. Repeat to warm up to see if she's hitting on four, spit checking headers as you work to determine if it is. Should run a good while with all bowls full from injection - by doing the injection and not hooking up pump you are controlling bowl levels = make sense? If she is hittin on all four and/or I wanted to do more testing - I would just refill the carbs thru the drains with the syringe using the predetermined amount of fuel injected from the syringe and closing the drains when full again.. Take the bull by the horns = make it go!

If it doesnt come up on four or refuses to fire at all (make sure kill switch is on), I would look down carbs and see if any fuel was being pulled in.. If obvious carbs were plugged solid I would put gas in a spray bottle = spray 5 times into each carb throat and hit starter = see if it will fire..

Remember the early years of high school mechanics,, internal combustion engines needs three things to run = compression, fuel/air mix, spark.. I would chase it till I got to hear it run on all four, at least momentarily and consistently BEFORE I started dumping cash into it = IMHO of course..

I am not sure but I think that broken part on your carb bank is actually replaceable,, not sure why but I just got a gut feeling it is..

Hi CP,,, sorry to read about your frustrations here but I can certainly relate = these puppies can be finicky to say the least BUT - with just a little bit of tender finness - they will usually slide apart without to much time utilizing the 5 pound beater..

Looking at you pic of the broken carb part and going strickly from memory here,, to me it looks like you were attempting to remove the carb bank with the throttle cables still intact?? If this is so,, I have successfully taken a whole different to the carb bank removal.. What I do is unhook the choke cable from its link and move it aside. Lift the carb assembly up out of the intake manifolds and then back the throttle cable adjusters both up top and down below all the way back, then unhook the return cable at the throttle body and pull it out, now you can pull the pull cable up and outward to lay it down enough to slide the carb bank outside of the frame rail to the left side (same side as the choke cable attaches). Once out of the frame and with the carb setting upright with the choke side facing downward - you can know remove the pull cable from its guide in between the carbs and the carbs will be free..

I have been in your situation many times in my career of dealing with old scoots and totally understand your concerns about putting cold hard cash into something that you really truly have no clue whether or not your dealing with something that is just gonna end up as parts.. Here is thought and probably something along the line of what I would have done/would do if you handed me the bike at this time.. I would probably slide the carbs back in the intakes. I would disconnect the fuel pump at the harness so it was inoperatable. Pull the plugs, spin er up a couple times to make sure I didnt have a hydro lock potential. Check oil for gas contamination. Check oil and anti freeze levels. Spin er up a few times to encourage pre lube by oil pump. I would pull the slides on the carbs, patch up any torn diaphrams best I could with YamaBond and set em aside to cure. Drain the carbs, get a syringe from an ag store, fill syringe with gas and inject into float bowl drain until I saw fuel coming out metering rod hole and close drain - note how much fuel I injected to get slight fuel flow from metering rod hole. Inject the determined amount into each carb so all carbs are now loaded = Do all four carbs. Replace carb slides/diaphrams = make sure slides slide effortlessly - clean slides and carb bodies if slides are sticky. Pick up a set of NGK D8ES plugs, gap em to 32 thou, unscrew the plug caps from the wires, clip a 1/4 inch off each plug wire and screw it back on, put plugs in and wires on. Choke carbs with either choke lever of rag stuffed across carbs to prime er up and see if she will fire.. Should run till carbs go dry.. Repeat to warm up to see if she's hitting on four, spit checking headers as you work to determine if it is. Should run a good while with all bowls full from injection - by doing the injection and not hooking up pump you are controlling bowl levels = make sense? If she is hittin on all four and/or I wanted to do more testing - I would just refill the carbs thru the drains with the syringe using the predetermined amount of fuel injected from the syringe and closing the drains when full again.. Take the bull by the horns = make it go!

If it doesnt come up on four or refuses to fire at all (make sure kill switch is on), I would look down carbs and see if any fuel was being pulled in.. If obvious carbs were plugged solid I would put gas in a spray bottle = spray 5 times into each carb throat and hit starter = see if it will fire..

Remember the early years of high school mechanics,, internal combustion engines needs three things to run = compression, fuel/air mix, spark.. I would chase it till I got to hear it run on all four, at least momentarily and consistently BEFORE I started dumping cash into it = IMHO of course..

I am not sure but I think that broken part on your carb bank is actually replaceable,, not sure why but I just got a gut feeling it is..

It should be I got 2 laying in a box... Believe it just bolts onto the side of number 2 carb...

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

It should be I got 2 laying in a box... Believe it just bolts onto the side of number 2 carb...

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. If I can't repair mine I'll buy one from you if you want to sell.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

UPDATE - 3/26/2018

 

To All:

 

I know it's been a LONG time since we last talked about my bike. After we last talked I just SHUT DOWN doing anything with the bike. I was having HECK trying to get the carb stack out from the bike and just quit dealing with it to move on to more pressing issues. Days turned into MONTHS with the bike just sitting in the shop, parts everywhere, just taking space.

 

For some time I've been talking to a man (REALLY YOUNG!!!) in New Orleans that had worked on this series engine before. We finally came to an agreement and he drove over to my house to help me load it on my trailer and off to take to NOLA. This kid really knows his way around a bike. He tore into the carbs and found that the deceleration diaphragms was SHOT ($67/ebay) to replace all 4. But the needle diaphragms are in GREAT shape (saved me TONS of $$$). I ordered the new parts including new plugs and air filter. He expects to have the carbs completed in the next few days and will sync them as well.

 

Overall he hasn't found additional issues with the bike (so far). We have no ideal of the state of the clutches, but he's going to fully test the bike and inspect the charging system along with flushing the front brake to make sure I've got solid stopping power.

 

Of course I'm going to know more if/when he gets the carbs mounted and to see if FINALLY this thing will crank or not. He told me the float wasn't bad on the #1 carb that was pouring fuel. I wasn't able to get additional details as he was needing to leave to get lunch. He did tell me that working on these carbs is VERY involved getting them clean because of all the circuits for fuel.

 

I know that once I get it home (working) I plan to test &/or change the anti-freeze, change the rear drive oil, and start the massive cleaning / polishing / rust removal.

 

Again, sorry that I've dropped off the map. I'm still around and hoping to finally (after some years) to be able to get back on a bike and just enjoy shifting thru the gears.

 

Of course, something additional could be wrong. But - perhaps at long last - the end of this saga might finally be in sight.

 

I'll let everyone know how it goes. If it's working great we can then talk about suggestions on any mods/issues that I should address.

Glad it's looking like it will be done soon. Sometimes it's nice to get someone on it that has the patience and know how so hopefully this kid can do some magic. Anyways, hopefuly you will be riding very soon!

Update 10.19.17 The unending hell...

 

So, now back to working on the bike. I cannot get those carbs our. I've got the stack off the manifolds, but managed to break the holder for one of the carb throttle cables. Yet another problem of the unending hell that doesn't stop.

 

My biggest issue is that I have no friends so I have no one to help. Gets so lonely working on this bike and I've still yet to even see if it runs.

 

I was talking 2 a guy that fixes bikes and he wants me to stop because he just fixed a V-max and no issues getting the pack off. I'm so pissed about this I've started to remove one side of the manifolds but of course that's a new hell since I've got the stack in the way.

 

I'm sorry to vent. I'm really being nice in this posting as I'm not adding all the f-bombs this bike so richly deserves. I'm just sick of yet more unending stuff that looks like I've got to remove to get a SIMPLE CARB PACK off an engine!!!!

 

Pic is of the part I broke. Can it be TIG welded?

 

Again, sorry for the venting. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171019/e9c74c992fafd31666fb3aa0fc7a97d7.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I bet my 83 with electronic issues has had more f-bombs dropped on her than yours has! Thanks to this site and all the advice, I'm going to try to tackle it again today. Supposed to be mid 60's mid-week and thunderstorms are moving the winter gravel and sand off the roads today. Hoping that today is the day! I'm rested, focused and enthusiastic! I need to ride!

 

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

I hope all goes well for you. I would say ride it for the summer and see how it goes before doing too many mods to it. Go out and enjoy it...

 

Rick F.

Update: 4/9/2018 1850CST

 

To All:

 

So FINALLY, the guy got it running! I've had it on the road a few times (couple of 80 mile trips, around town). But, been concerned about not having a horn working and other questions about things I was seeing SO today I started pushing off into it. So now that it's running, charging looks great so no issues there. Front tire SUCKS at 75+MPH...I'm going to be putting ceramic beads in it before running it again to see if that cures the balance issues.

 

SIDE PANELS...WHAT A NIGHTMARE FROM HELL!!! I've had an old GL1200 that was SO SIMPLE to remove/replace these things!!! I'm so pissed at the hell it takes to put them on that I just ride it with them OFF.

 

I need some comments on a few things as I'm now dealing with electrical issues (no horn, some lights not working, brake light issues)...so see below and here we go!!!

 

Handlebar Brake light switch NOT WORKING. This is the serious one. I can hear the microswitch working (clicking). Nothing works on the rear from my right hand, so only the foot brake works the brake lights. Suggestions?

 

Fuses: on the top of the battery all looks fine (none broken). Found a lower FUSE box (in front of the battery) that I found the hazard was blown (15A). Replaced it...gee...hazard lights work. YIPEE! Look...every victory counts... Does anyone have a picture that tells what each fuse is on the top fuses that are on top of the battery?

 

HORNS: Press the horn button and I'm getting a 'clicking' (relay) but nadda on either of them working. Meter shows 0.01 off / and 0.10 when horn switch is depressed at the horn (wires removed to straight test). Uh, where in the hell is the relay? Ideals on what might be my problem(s)? I'm going to be removing them anyways to replace with a VERY LOUD air horns my dad got for his bike back in the '70's (yes, they work...trust me...) :>

 

Seat: How in the name of HADES does that thing come off?????? I want to remove it JUST to see if there's some missing fuses, something not connected because I've got a lot of lights on the back of the bike not working (don't know if they're factory lights OR addon's...) I'm just starting to locate the stuff on this bike that's not working. I found a connector not plugged, so removing the seat is something I need to do.

 

Kickstand: this bike LEANS...and I do mean it LEANS. My mechanic let me know someone laid this bike down HARD. I already knew the kickstand wasn't working right, but wow this thing leans on the kickstand. So much that even some kid I know asked me about it. Yes, it's safe. But anyone dealt with this issue before? Is there a fix?

 

POWERBALL: I'm playing numbers out of a chinese fortune cookie (CFC) from this past weekend...seriously...how else better would you like to win the lottery???? Before I would announce I won with numbers from a CFC...I'd race out and buy stock in the company so I could make even MORE money!!!!!

 

So it's running...hunting dow the electrical issues it the last fights.

Update: 4/9/2018 1850CST

 

To All:

 

So FINALLY, the guy got it running! I've had it on the road a few times (couple of 80 mile trips, around town). But, been concerned about not having a horn working and other questions about things I was seeing SO today I started pushing off into it. So now that it's running, charging looks great so no issues there. Front tire SUCKS at 75+MPH...I'm going to be putting ceramic beads in it before running it again to see if that cures the balance issues.

 

SIDE PANELS...WHAT A NIGHTMARE FROM HELL!!! I've had an old GL1200 that was SO SIMPLE to remove/replace these things!!! I'm so pissed at the hell it takes to put them on that I just ride it with them OFF.

 

I need some comments on a few things as I'm now dealing with electrical issues (no horn, some lights not working, brake light issues)...so see below and here we go!!!

 

Handlebar Brake light switch NOT WORKING. This is the serious one. I can hear the microswitch working (clicking). Nothing works on the rear from my right hand, so only the foot brake works the brake lights. Suggestions?

 

Fuses: on the top of the battery all looks fine (none broken). Found a lower FUSE box (in front of the battery) that I found the hazard was blown (15A). Replaced it...gee...hazard lights work. YIPEE! Look...every victory counts... Does anyone have a picture that tells what each fuse is on the top fuses that are on top of the battery?

 

HORNS: Press the horn button and I'm getting a 'clicking' (relay) but nadda on either of them working. Meter shows 0.01 off / and 0.10 when horn switch is depressed at the horn (wires removed to straight test). Uh, where in the hell is the relay? Ideals on what might be my problem(s)? I'm going to be removing them anyways to replace with a VERY LOUD air horns my dad got for his bike back in the '70's (yes, they work...trust me...) :>

 

Seat: How in the name of HADES does that thing come off?????? I want to remove it JUST to see if there's some missing fuses, something not connected because I've got a lot of lights on the back of the bike not working (don't know if they're factory lights OR addon's...) I'm just starting to locate the stuff on this bike that's not working. I found a connector not plugged, so removing the seat is something I need to do.

 

Kickstand: this bike LEANS...and I do mean it LEANS. My mechanic let me know someone laid this bike down HARD. I already knew the kickstand wasn't working right, but wow this thing leans on the kickstand. So much that even some kid I know asked me about it. Yes, it's safe. But anyone dealt with this issue before? Is there a fix?

 

POWERBALL: I'm playing numbers out of a chinese fortune cookie (CFC) from this past weekend...seriously...how else better would you like to win the lottery???? Before I would announce I won with numbers from a CFC...I'd race out and buy stock in the company so I could make even MORE money!!!!!

 

So it's running...hunting dow the electrical issues it the last fights.

 

Well the seat is held on by 2 bolts in the back there is a slot where the bolt is on the aluminum trim in the back just to give you an Idea of where it is I will post Lil Wrench tightening that bolt. You may need to clean your connections up in the handle bar area and all the plugs running for that brake light switch, these bikes are 25+ yrs old so...

 

There are no fuses under the seat, they are located on top of your battery and to the right front of it, as you have already found out. There is no relay for the horns in a stock configuration on these bikes. The horn button powers the horns directly so it is possible that the button is dirty or corroded. Clean it and it should work ok and if you do install a relay you still will need it to be clean to activate the relay.

I dont recall what fuses are what but if you can access the owners manual or service manual from the website here, it will let you know. Check in the frist gen tech section under manuals.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

 

Rick F.

I forgot to mention the no fuses there, if there is add on lights like my bike I put them under the black cover under the rear trunk rack. the only plug under the seat is for the fuel gauge...

Update: 4/9/2018 1850CST

 

To All:

 

So FINALLY, the guy got it running! I've had it on the road a few times (couple of 80 mile trips, around town). But, been concerned about not having a horn working and other questions about things I was seeing SO today I started pushing off into it. So now that it's running, charging looks great so no issues there. Front tire SUCKS at 75+MPH...I'm going to be putting ceramic beads in it before running it again to see if that cures the balance issues.

 

SIDE PANELS...WHAT A NIGHTMARE FROM HELL!!! I've had an old GL1200 that was SO SIMPLE to remove/replace these things!!! I'm so pissed at the hell it takes to put them on that I just ride it with them OFF.

 

I need some comments on a few things as I'm now dealing with electrical issues (no horn, some lights not working, brake light issues)...so see below and here we go!!!

 

Handlebar Brake light switch NOT WORKING. This is the serious one. I can hear the microswitch working (clicking). Nothing works on the rear from my right hand, so only the foot brake works the brake lights. Suggestions?

 

Fuses: on the top of the battery all looks fine (none broken). Found a lower FUSE box (in front of the battery) that I found the hazard was blown (15A). Replaced it...gee...hazard lights work. YIPEE! Look...every victory counts... Does anyone have a picture that tells what each fuse is on the top fuses that are on top of the battery?

 

HORNS: Press the horn button and I'm getting a 'clicking' (relay) but nadda on either of them working. Meter shows 0.01 off / and 0.10 when horn switch is depressed at the horn (wires removed to straight test). Uh, where in the hell is the relay? Ideals on what might be my problem(s)? I'm going to be removing them anyways to replace with a VERY LOUD air horns my dad got for his bike back in the '70's (yes, they work...trust me...) :>

 

Seat: How in the name of HADES does that thing come off?????? I want to remove it JUST to see if there's some missing fuses, something not connected because I've got a lot of lights on the back of the bike not working (don't know if they're factory lights OR addon's...) I'm just starting to locate the stuff on this bike that's not working. I found a connector not plugged, so removing the seat is something I need to do.

 

Kickstand: this bike LEANS...and I do mean it LEANS. My mechanic let me know someone laid this bike down HARD. I already knew the kickstand wasn't working right, but wow this thing leans on the kickstand. So much that even some kid I know asked me about it. Yes, it's safe. But anyone dealt with this issue before? Is there a fix?

 

.

 

Side panels simply pop off. Held on by three plastic male thingies that force fit into 3 rubber grommets...and one rubber band on the bottom. I don't have a picture but maybe someone does and they can post it here.

 

Brake light switch - simply unplug the connector and test switch with an ohm meter. If the switch is working, then trace the wiring...you are looking for a broken wire.

 

Fuse info is found in the manual. Both the owners manual and the service manual are available in the 1st gen tech section as others have mentioned. They are free and worth their weight in gold on these bikes. I printed out the fuse info when I first got the bike and taped it under the false fuel cover. The main fuse should be to the left of the battery with a spare fuse holder right next to it.

 

As stated...original horns do not have a relay. If someone put a larger horn on then the switch should be energizing a relay and you just have to find where the wires and relay are. I mounted my relay and wiring next to the battery....maybe they sold you the scoot without the horn???

 

Seat comes off with 2 bolts, one on each side in the middle of the seat underneath as shown on the video.

 

These bikes are very easy to work on...they appear complicated but in reality are far easier than most bikes out there. The 1st gen Ventures, like yours, are almost bullet proof.

They also require little maintenance once you get the previous owners issues put to rest as well as clean up the fuel and electrical systems from almost 30 years of possible neglect.

My 89 was bone stock when I got her and she ran beautifully and still does. Since then I've added LED lights, a loud horn, and a R6 rear brake caliper for extra rear braking.

 

I've done all the work myself with limited tools, money and time. I've never found the bike to be beyond my limited knowledge and experience and have relied heavily on the talent and knowledge on the forum to help me when I found myself over my head. In other words, take your time and enjoy the experience. Don't shotgun your maintenance...one thing at a time. You will get her where you want her and you will find yourself riding a very fast and nimble sport touring bike you can take anywhere.

 

Thank you for keeping us posted...and let's see some pictures when you can!

 

my 89...

 

Edited April 10, 2018 by videoarizona
add pic

Side panels simply pop off. Held on by three plastic male thingies that force fit into 3 rubber grommets...and one rubber band on the bottom. I don't have a picture but maybe someone does and they can post it here.

 

Brake light switch - simply unplug the connector and test switch with an ohm meter. If the switch is working, then trace the wiring...you are looking for a broken wire.

 

Fuse info is found in the manual. Both the owners manual and the service manual are available in the 1st gen tech section as others have mentioned. They are free and worth their weight in gold on these bikes. I printed out the fuse info when I first got the bike and taped it under the false fuel cover. The main fuse should be to the left of the battery with a spare fuse holder right next to it.

 

As stated...original horns do not have a relay. If someone put a larger horn on then the switch should be energizing a relay and you just have to find where the wires and relay are. I mounted my relay and wiring next to the battery....maybe they sold you the scoot without the horn???

 

Seat comes off with 2 bolts, one on each side in the middle of the seat underneath as shown on the video.

 

These bikes are very easy to work on...they appear complicated but in reality are far easier than most bikes out there. The 1st gen Ventures, like yours, are almost bullet proof.

They also require little maintenance once you get the previous owners issues put to rest as well as clean up the fuel and electrical systems from almost 30 years of possible neglect.

My 89 was bone stock when I got her and she ran beautifully and still does. Since then I've added LED lights, a loud horn, and a R6 rear brake caliper for extra rear braking.

 

I've done all the work myself with limited tools, money and time. I've never found the bike to be beyond my limited knowledge and experience and have relied heavily on the talent and knowledge on the forum to help me when I found myself over my head. In other words, take your time and enjoy the experience. Don't shotgun your maintenance...one thing at a time. You will get her where you want her and you will find yourself riding a very fast and nimble sport touring bike you can take anywhere.

 

Thank you for keeping us posted...and let's see some pictures when you can!

 

my 89...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112064

My bike looks just like yours. Yours is Very nice!

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

My bike looks just like yours. Yours is Very nice!

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

Thank you! And so will yours when you get done.

 

Here is a picture of the first time I took the rear end apart to grease the rear end and found a broken drive piece....Someone on the forum called the position "Kneeling". The front wheel off and the bike resting on the front forks. This gave me room to take off the rear wheel and get in there and clean and grease...

 

 

I can't believe I did this with very little knowledge of this bike...

I have several high end plug sockets in SAE amd Metric, the only one I have that works on the Venture is the one in its own tool kit. Works like a charm. The other thing about carbs is that they are a little bit of a knuckle buster to pull but these CV carbs are pretty straight forward to work on. I have also heard great thing about the video mentioned above. I pulled mine because I wanted to verify jet sizes and set floats while addressing an intermittent missfire. What I found inside was the PO ran screws into the jet block plugs to try and snug them up. After setting floats and undoing some **** the PO did I had a machine that ran as it should. No tellin' wattup with a set of carbs after a few decades. I knew I would tour mine far from home so there was never much doubt I would go into the carbs and at the very least do a cleaning and set the floats (they are a bit rich from the factory).

Update: 04/11/2018 0250CST

 

Before I head to bed just wanted to update on all the work today and need to know if anyone has a spare part:

 

Horn: Found that there was a relay in the configuration of the MESS that was done by someone else. You see, I don't have a radio on my bike (previous owner removed). So, the person fabricated a panel and just put a line of switches going to a BUNCH of relays to control the additional lights and the trailer that was previously used (I didn't want to spend $600 for the trailer). I found wires disconnected, just a mess. Anyways, found that the horn relay was bad so got a new one at AZ and after much work on returning them back to working order I installed my dad's air horns he got back in '73 for a bike when we lived in New Orleans. Guess I should take a picture to show everyone. It doesn't look like some first-rate install. But, I paid $500 for the bike. And I don't care about looks if those horns saves me from someone in a vehicle that doesn't know I'm there. When I hit the horn button on my bike, trust me...they (and everyone else) knows I'm there! Function is sometimes better than beauty.

 

Front Brake Switch: Oh wow did I discover I haven't HAD a working front brake light! I pulled the switch and it's been severely damaged. Not a chance to repair it. I got on ebay and found a new one that I purchased, but does anyone have a spare for a '89 they want to sell to me? It's going to be deep into next month before I get this one and depending on a rear brake to signal when I'm stopping is NOT something I want to do!

 

Front Tire: Installed 1oz of beads in the tire today. I still have an out-of-balance issue. I'm thinking I might get the balancer at Harbor Frieght so that I can actually do some test to see if the wheel is warped from a previous accident.

 

Venture Cruise: is it even worth trying to diagnose this system? It lights up, shows that I can 'set' it, but doesn't accuate to control the speed. Suggestions?

 

Well, off to bed. Thanks to EVERYONE for your replies and suggestions!!!

 

BTW---thanks to everyone for your advice and help during this time to get this bike running.

On the front tire, if you lift the tire off of the ground, spin it while holding a screwdriver to the tread and then to the side wall, it can tell you if there are problems with the tire or wheel. If it shows a wooble on the rubber try holding the driver to the wheel.

On the cruise control I think you should trace the wires using a schematic. I have one I can send you made by one of our former members, it's easy to follow and color coded,, let me know.

Can't help you with the switch or with going to bed.

After you have checked out the tire/rim on the front as Carl suggested, might want to throw in more beads. I'm not sure 1 0z is enough, especially if the tire wasn't mounted properly...ie...light spot on tire matched to the valve stem.

 

 

Good to hear about the horn!

I have been using Ride-On Tire Sealant and Balancer in my 89 VR for a long time now. Not only to help with the balancing of the tire, which it does nicely, but for that added protection of sealing a small tire puncture if I get one while on the road. I dont always ride in the most populace areas when I am out and sometimes I am out of cell coverage so it gives me a little piece of mind while out.

Here is the website for the product.. http://www.ride-on.com/

 

Just my 2 cents worth..

 

Rick F.

Update: 05/10/2018 @ 1229 CST

 

To All:

 

Front Wheel: I had the wheel balanced by a local shop. The owner balanced it with a bubble balancer! Wow, hadn't seen one of those since the 80's! He's been wrenching since '68 and balances tires that run on bikes turning 200+MPH, so I'm like, "HELL YES YOU CAN BALANCE MY TIRE!!!" He did, it's better, but I'm still dealing with the bad vibration at >75MPH. I'm planning to stop at Harbor Freight and lose some $$$ but I'm going to get a dial indicator w/magnetic base and I'm going to ONCE AND FOR ALL verify if the rim is in spec or not.

 

Suspension: Great news! I have discovered that the air suspension WORKS! The weird thing is that it'll only come on when the key is in ACC not ON. I found this to be quite STRANGE. Can someone tell me what key position your unit comes on if it's like mine (ACC) or when the key is ON?

 

Front Forks: I've seen an '89VR that had some fork tube covers. Is there one that everyone recommends? I'm thinking about getting them done with my mechanic as my stability on the front SUCKS right now. Yes, they're leaking. And no, I'm not going to do this myself. :>

 

Venture Cruise: (update) - Ok, I had to pull the controller at the throttle apart and found it was plugged with dirt. After cleaning / blowing / lubing the switches I've found that the light indicators are showing that I can SET the speed. However, it's not controlling the speed. It'll slow down and the RESUME will light. Even after holding the lever to SET just to make sure still nothing. So right now it appears that the light panel and switches are working. Where is the actuator for the cruise located on the bike? Anything specific I should be looking for when I start looking at the unit?

 

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and pics!!!

Ill toss out what I know. Key in ACC, mine too, I never figured it out, had to ask here and was told. My guess is thats to keep riders from mucking about with it while sailing down the road. On the fork covers, I have a set of chrome metal ones fixed on with hoseclamps. They are solid and look great. Not sure if they are OEM or not but when I get back home this weekend ill be happy to post a pic for you. Also I cant remember if this came up but on front end stability I had to do two things to make mine solid and smooth. First my steering head bearings were knackered, I replaced bearings, races and seals with an All Balls kit, it took a couple tries to get adjustment just right but shes there now. The other thing I had was the bike felt loose and terrifying while changing lanes and highway speeds. I got up on the ctr stand, straightened forks, loosened the axle and the tree bolts, then retightened from the top down, which cured that issue. Read up on that last thing, I hope I recalled it correctly. There is info on that here but cant find on my phone. Again, happy to find it when I get home this weekend. Hope this helps.

Edited May 10, 2018 by CaseyJ955

Update: 05/10/2018 @ 1229 CST

 

 

Venture Cruise: (update) - Ok, I had to pull the controller at the throttle apart and found it was plugged with dirt. After cleaning / blowing / lubing the switches I've found that the light indicators are showing that I can SET the speed. However, it's not controlling the speed. It'll slow down and the RESUME will light. Even after holding the lever to SET just to make sure still nothing. So right now it appears that the light panel and switches are working. Where is the actuator for the cruise located on the bike? Anything specific I should be looking for when I start looking at the unit?

 

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and pics!!!

 

I'm not that familiar with the Venture cruise system yet but on a Goldwing there are switches on the clutch lever, front brake lever and rear brake pedal that disengage the cruise when pulled in or in the case of the rear brake depressed. The most common problem on the Goldwing was a worn out clutch lever that wouldn't activate the switch, so the cruise control could never be set. Others who are more familiar with the cruise control may be able to confirm.