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I want them, do you have to have a compressor with them?

 

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I got them from a place called wish took the 3 weeks to get to me. There is compressor but IMHO WILL. Make video of sound but IMHO THEY sound just like bad boy... Just a little louder.. But will do comparison when I get home. It come with cheap air hose but I just used 2 foot of 1/2 fuel line?

 

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Not sure what your reffering to but the left fair lid is where my stereo sits underneath a marine cover, also lost a chunk of wood on pothole here in joplin for the longest time I did not even know that was wood there.My right cover has Duck tape as a Hinge, been working for over a year... But this is my Tinker.

 

 

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Morning everyone!

So here is the deal: I replaced the clutch slave cylinder, cleaned the clutch master cylinder, added dot3 and pressing the lever pumping down oil to the slave cylinder (my guess) I spent about a good 1 hour probably more until saw oil coming out of the relief valve in the slave cylinder I closed it and spend time trying to get as much air out until I didnt see more bubbles, Problem now is that I started tge bike press the clutch all the way and the bike stall as if there was no clutch at all anyone?

 

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There is a good chance there is still an air bubble in there.

There are a bunch a different ways to get all the air out. and most of them work.

The clutch is hard to do because you never get a real high pressure like you do in the brakes.

depending on just where the air is, (there is now way I know of to tell) there are different tricks to getting it out.

If it is in the master, it sometimes works to tie the clutch lever all the way against the grip and leave it like that over night with the wheel turned so that that really tiny hole in the master is at the highest point.

Many have had good results using a vacuum bleeder from Harbor freight.

Others have been able to get it done just using the normal, squeeze, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release, routine.

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There is a good chance there is still an air bubble in there.

There are a bunch a different ways to get all the air out. and most of them work.

The clutch is hard to do because you never get a real high pressure like you do in the brakes.

depending on just where the air is, (there is now way I know of to tell) there are different tricks to getting it out.

If it is in the master, it sometimes works to tie the clutch lever all the way against the grip and leave it like that over night with the wheel turned so that that really tiny hole in the master is at the highest point.

Many have had good results using a vacuum bleeder from Harbor freight.

Others have been able to get it done just using the normal, squeeze, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release, routine.

:icon_lurker:
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Mister Puc sir, you can't receive any more personal messages until you clean out some messages. I would have messaged you but I can't.

 

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Got er done brother = sorry bout that!!! Hey ya lop eared varmint, also left a message for you in the water hole = check it out,, could be interesting AND, may even promote some interaction with some real deal guru's about your situation :big-grin-emoticon::fingers-crossed-emo

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[emoji848] Do you think that with the side stand down the bike will do that because of the stand's switch?

 

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Yep, if your side stand is down and you pull in the clutch and drop it in gear the bike will stall = the side stand has a safety switch on it to keep you from motivating with the stand down..

Back to the clutch.. Is the motor stalling when you drop it in gear with the clutch pulled in at the handle bar with a WHAM - JERK?? Like the clutch is not disengaging??

If so,, like already mentioned, you probably have air still in the system and the air is compressing (brake fluid does not compress) so the piston in your slave cylinder is not moving the clutch rod that forces the clutch plates open.. I have found the best way to bleed the clutch for me is to bleed at the bango up on the master as this seems to be the highest point of the system.. Bleed there, make sure you got good fluid bleed (make sure you rag off and cover the bike under the bar though cause brake fluid is pretty nasty).. If you still got no good clutch,, take a clear gas line and put it over the nipple on the slave - drape the line over the bike and into a jar, I tie wrap around the line to double insure the line will stay on, now you can bleed into the line (you can easily just twist the line to open and close the bleeder if your doing it right) and actually see any air you get out in the clear gas line.. You will also keep air from going back into the slave this way cause the air will be going up the gas line.. Works great and its fun to tinker..

This is also a really good way to replace the fluid in the system because you just pump, watch the fluid in the line change color as the new replaces the old - works GREAT on brakes too.. Only ALWAYS remember not to let a master go dry and draw air in...

Back yard mechanicing is sooooo much fun!!

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Yes I got home and started the bike pull the stand up and drop it into gear and it stall.

How can I check the stand switch Mr Puc?

 

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But did it stall because the clutch is not working as in it stalled with a WHAMING JERK as the bike tried to lunge forward or did it just die like you shut the key off when you put it in gear??

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But did it stall because the clutch is not working as in it stalled with a WHAMING JERK as the bike tried to lunge forward or did it just die like you shut the key off when you put it in gear??
It launched forward

 

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It launched forward

 

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Ok,,lets try this before I go into detail on testing the stand switch.. Put the bike on its center stand aiming away from the house and people just in case something bad happens (watched a buddy try to shut his 80cc Yamaha off while it was on its center stand and we started it and the throttle stuck by slamming the back of the bike down.. No joke, that little sucker jumped right thru their kitchen window and hung up on the window frame - WOW I had a great childhood).. With out sitting on the bike so the back end stays up, start the bike in neutral with the side stand up and your rear wheel will probably start spinning on its own - let it spin till it looks like its up to a pretty good speed, pull the clutch in and drop it in gear and let the clutch out.. Now the tire will be spinning in first gear.. Now pull the clutch lever and push down on the rear brake - you should easily be able to stop the rear wheel with the rear brake with the clutch disengaged (lever pulled).. Gotta hunch you will find your clutch is not disengaging and you will not be able to stop the rear wheel..

If its the side stand switch the bike will stop even with the rear wheel raised and spinning when you drop it in gear..

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Ok,,lets try this before I go into detail on testing the stand switch.. Put the bike on its center stand aiming away from the house and people just in case something bad happens (watched a buddy try to shut his 80cc Yamaha off while it was on its center stand and we started it and the throttle stuck by slamming the back of the bike down.. No joke, that little sucker jumped right thru their kitchen window and hung up on the window frame - WOW I had a great childhood).. With out sitting on the bike so the back end stays up, start the bike in neutral with the side stand up and your rear wheel will probably start spinning on its own - let it spin till it looks like its up to a pretty good speed, pull the clutch in and drop it in gear and let the clutch out.. Now the tire will be spinning in first gear.. Now pull the clutch lever and push down on the rear brake - you should easily be able to stop the rear wheel with the rear brake with the clutch disengaged (lever pulled).. Gotta hunch you will find your clutch is not disengaging and you will not be able to stop the rear wheel..

If its the side stand switch the bike will stop even with the rear wheel raised and spinning when you drop it in gear..

So when I pull the clutch and push on the brake the tire is supposed to easily stop and stay still for a little bit and it will slowly start spinning again right?

Or if the tire starts rapidly spinning again it probably means there is air or not enough oil in the lines is that right?

 

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