Removing updgraded (Dano's) Starter Clutch Mod

I installed Dano's Starter Clutch Mod seven years ago. Now trying to remove it so I can put it on another bike.

I have the oil galley bolt off and I pulled all of the allen head bolts(6) that sit inside the flywheel.

At this point should I try a puller like when removing the OEM one ?

I really cannot remember how this thing went together:-)

Thanks!

I installed Dano's Starter Clutch Mod seven years ago. Now trying to remove it so I can put it on another bike.

 

I have the oil galley bolt off and I pulled all of the allen head bolts(6) that sit inside the flywheel.

 

At this point should I try a puller like when removing the OEM one ?

 

I really cannot remember how this thing went together:-)

 

Thanks!

If I remember correctly there is only one bolt to remove and that is the big one in the center. Put the puller on it and it should pop off. It's only the OEM ones that seem to have a real liking to stay put I think.

If you took out the 6 Allen bolts you may have messed up @Dano clutch. Dano uses an alignment fixture when tightening those Allen screws. My guess is that your best bet is to reinstall the Allen's with some fresh loctite and let that set for 24 hours before disturbing. Once you put it back together, except for the big center bolt, then get your strongest puller out and pop the whole works off the crank as a unit. to put it on the new bike, just pull the old flywheel and put on the new one and hit it with the torque wrench.

Hopefully Dano will pop in here and give his .

I will reinstall the 6 bolts. Every things seems to sill be aligned. I guess I will find out.

The starter clutch is on there good.

It seems as difficult as the OEM- to remove.

I was hoping for Dano's input to.

I emailed Dano. Here was his response.

"As Flyin'Fool said on VR, PUT THOSE 6 BOLTS BACK IN! Use the red locktite and tighten them, if you've got a 1/2" drive torque wrench it'll help. As long as you have not disrupted the rotor or starter clutch, should be easy. Once you've got it back together, use the 3-bolt puller, sit back with a beverage of your choice and wait for it to pop.

Good luck!

Dano"

And make sure there is no oil in the holes before you use the red Loctite. Even red Loctite don't stick to oil.

Put a little heat on the center area where it's on the output shaft with a little pressure from a puller. Keep the center retaining bolt in while doing this as I have watched the flywheel jump completely off before. I have also let them set overnight with pressure on them and in the morning that have popped.

If I remember correctly there is only one bolt to remove and that is the big one in the center. Put the puller on it and it should pop off. It's only the OEM ones that seem to have a real liking to stay put I think.

I find no place to fasten ether a jawed (3 armed) puller or a three bolt like for a harmonic balancer The only threaded holes inside the flywheel are the allen bolts.

I cannot get a puller behind unit either.

I am sure that this is my failure and I am missing the obvious.

Has anyone pulled one of these and what did they use ?

I found the threaded holes, there are three.

Thanks all.

There are 3 threaded holes that you have found, use high strength bolts to attach the puller to those holes. When you put the bolts in the holes, do not tighten them just bottom them out in the holes finger tight. Crank down on the puller till you think something is gonna break, then go to bed, it will usually be off by morning. Tie a safety rope to the flywheel to hold it on or it may literally fly across the shop and break itself or anything in its way. It is a heavy chunk of metal.

I do not using heat because heat is real bad for magnets, there are magnets in the flywheel for the stator and the ignition. Sometimes a good rap on the jack screw of the puller will persuade the flywheel to pop. I would not pound on the flywheel itself since shock is also bad for magnets.