Clutch basket remove

I'm replacing the segment and pins behind the clutch basket, so far as I know I have to remove the basket to do this. So both side covers are currently off the engine. Can I put a breaker bar with (18mm, 19mm?) a socket on the starter clutch bolt to hold the crank shaft while turning the bolt(s) to remove the clutch basket? I saw the wooden basket holder in the segment repair in the tech library and noted that it uses a partially torn down bike frame to hold the 2" X 4" s in place so I don't know if that will work for me....

Deener,,, if I am understanding you question properly - which I very well may not be (I tend to be a little thick skulled at times) - what you are referring to doing cannot be done that way because its the inner basket you have to hold to remove the nut that secures the clutch basket assembly. The outer basket is geared to the crank and is what delivers power to the inner basket which tranfers to the tranny. Capturing the bolt that is securing the starter clutch will only keep the outer basket from turning - not the inner hub. The fiber disc in the clutch pac have ears on them that mate to the outer basket, the steel plate that the fiber plates friction against have notches in them that mate to the inner hub - its the meeting of these two types of plates (fiber against steel) that results the tranny receiving power from the crank as your clutch lever is released.

I used to make my own tool for the job you are talking of - pretty easy to make too.. All I did was took an old steel clutch plate (its the steel plates that mesh to the inner hub) and then take a piece of round stock that would just fit between the ears on the outer basket, cut a notch in the end of the bar stock wide just wide enough that the plate would slip into it and to a depth just shy of the notches that meet with the inner hub. A quick weld along the bar stock and the clutch plate and BINGO - instant homemade Puc speciality tool!! Sometimes a small bend in the round stock would be necessary to get the "handle" out where I could get a good grip on it (use it like a breaker bar) but not always.

I have also successfully used an old motorcycle tie down for the same job - just take the end of an old tie down (with no hook on it), make a couple wraps on the inner basket (I have found that melting the end of the tie down material a little and making a lip of the melted plastic helps sometimes to get it to hold) with the end of the tie down being squeezed by the wrap above it - feed the tie down between the outer baskets ears and make a couple wraps around a foot peg or something, put the socket on the nut in the inner race and slowly tighten it up as your rotating the nut to loosen it. Get it tight and smack the end of the breaker bar with a hammer and bingo..

Sometimes that inner hub nut will come right off with just a good POP from a healthy air impact but,, and its a big but,,, been a few hands torn up by people trying to hold that inner basket with their hand while attempting to do that.. If you wanna try an air impact with the tranny in gear you can do that too - lots of bike mechanics do that but I prefer not to as I never liked stressing internals that hard - up to you of course... If your gonna attempt it - try second gear with a bunch of pressure on the rear brake.

Another word of caution - after you have the inner hub nut loose - remove it and carefully look at whats under it - you may find a "concaved" washer that needs to go back in properly - you may also find shim(s) in between the rear of the inner basket and the shoulder it rides against - dont loose em - reinstall in order they were removed..

Happy fixin!

Puc

I don't remember that much drama pulling my basket off. I took the parts off and used an impact gun to loosen the big nut on the shaft.There was some kind of a retainer clip on it too.Once i got that out of the way, it was breeze. Good luck with it.

Advice by paysaw matches my experience. A cordless impact drill and a 30 mm socket ( I think that was the size?) did the trick for me. Now, getting the nut back on to torque specs is another matter. You will need something to hold the basket. I bought a clutch holding tool - less than $20.

Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool? Is this the one you got that worked on the XVZ 1200?

Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool? [ATTACH=CONFIG]106303[/ATTACH] Is this the one you got that worked on the XVZ 1200?

That's the one.

BTW, be careful removing that shift segment. The screw that holds the segment will have been thread locked. As I recall the screw requires a torx bit. First find the right size bit and then, again, a cordless impact will work well in getting the screw out. Failing that, use a manual impact screw driver.

I had to repair a goof up from the po on my scoot. I just used an impact and then a torque stick when putting it back on. The torque sticks aren't perfect but will be close enough...

I ordered it last night and rec'd notice it's on the way early this morning. I bought it on Ebay as Amazon was priced higher and didn't offer free shipping. For $23.XX I figure I did OK!

UPDATE!! That clutch tool arrived and did a bang up job! PERFECT! It locks on to the teeth of the basket and I allowed it to bind on the passenger floor board as I turned the 30" breaker bar. She came loose! OH yeah; WAIT; there's more! Something you won't read in the tech library on this project: You'll need a 30mm socket to get the clutch basket off; maybe we should add that huh?

Now then for the Lesson of the day!

NEVER leave the "C" clip and washer that hold the shift lever in place below clutch location. One or both the "C" Clip and/or the black washer that goes behind it will slip into the oil pan. I got mine out with a magnet on a piece of safety wire.

I used up my luck for today... Look close on the left at the "C" clip and washer....they slipped off the section there between the 2 screw bosses into the pan to the right under that large plastic gear.

Also today I was working on my GMC Yukon....replacing the upper radiator hose joint that screws into the fwd right (passenger side) intake manifold; the hose has a fitting that pops into the joint. The joint leaked so I got a new one. On turning the ratchet to remove the old joint the joint broke! OH NOOOOo!!! So I got a chisel, and IT CAME RIGHT OUT!!! It was so corroded little was left to be stuck/frozen/corroded together! The new one screw right it there just right! Wheeew! Talk about a close call!!!!

NOW THAT'S WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT - CONGRATS DNA!!!!!

Thanks Cow!

So now I have to put the right side case back on, drain the carbs and fill with Sea Foam; let soak. Install the plugs & COPS, fill it with oil (new filter already on), drop the rear wheel and grease the gears & check the wheel bearings, do same for front wheel, find the disk for the Ignitec and reprogram it for the 1985 model. Drain the carbs, turn on the gas, hit the starter button and see what happens....

Thanks Cow!

So now I have to put the right side case back on, drain the carbs and fill with Sea Foam; let soak. Install the plugs & COPS, fill it with oil (new filter already on), drop the rear wheel and grease the gears & check the wheel bearings, do same for front wheel, find the disk for the Ignitec and reprogram it for the 1985 model. Drain the carbs, turn on the gas, hit the starter button and see what happens....

Hoping it purrs like a kitten... Or at least snarls like a Tiger. Then run a little Sea-Foam during those first rides!! Good Luck!!

Can I get a recommendation for a inch pound/Nm torque wrench that will do 5 lbs/ft and up, preferably in 1/4 drive. I found these: ACDelco ARM601-3 3/8-inch Digital Torque Wrench (2-37 ft-lbs) by ACDelco ($100.00)

• TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 20-200-Inch/Pound by TEKTON ($36.00) on Amazon.
  
• Opinions please!
  

So I got a clutch problem; When installing the steels and friction disks I'm not ending with a friction disk, so I'm thinking the box of frictions (in a factory box but no cellophane) I found in one of my parts bikes was missing a disk, no; I already trash-caned the old set....So I bought a set of Barnette friction disks, So after removing the outter pack of steels and disks I remove the little wire, the steel and find a narrow steel and narrow friction disk. I know; a lot of guys don't replace it, I am. So how does it go back together? I think it goes 1/2 friction, steel washer, steel, wire, friction/steel till full ending with a friction disk. Yes?

In addition to the half size disc/steel plate pair, your Barnett kit should have seven discs and six steel plates, as I recall.

Actually a lot of us replace the half disk and steel plate with a full size and do away with the wire. Check out this post and you can use it for a reference even though it is for a 2nd gen.. there isnt that much difference between them.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade

Rick F.

I didn't buy the steels....I'm using the originals, is that going to be a problem for me?

OK my Barnett disks have no dots or notches to line up with the basket, so now what? Is there some voo-doo I don't know? Do I install them in any manner? I did put the narrow one on first, then the steel, wire, friction/steel till I ended up with a friction for the pressure plate. Barnett says install IAW (In Accordance With) MFR's instructions; well Yamaha says line up the notches with the dots/ or if they don't fit well turn them 180 degrees; well there are no notches so now what?

What so the instruction say for you Barnett disks. I have not installed those so I cant offer any advise on those. Try them and see what happens is about all I can say.. Maybe one of the other member can offer some advise on them.

Rick F.

I stated before what barnett said, "follow the MFR's instructions" well there are no marks or notches on the Barnett disks so again, I'm looking for advice.

I stated before what barnett said, "follow the MFR's instructions" well there are no marks or notches on the Barnett disks so again, I'm looking for advice.

That's right, no notches on the Barnett discs. They can be installed in any position.

That's right, no notches on the Barnett discs. They can be installed in any position.

Thanks for responding Gaj! I read all I could find on this forum and others on Barnett clutch installations and couldn't find a word about the lack of notches on the Barnett disks; so I didn't know if I got the wrong part (they fit but...) or I got some sort of factory mistake. They are installed as of yesterday afternoon (late) but I was waiting to hear form some one here before I installed the cover. Now I can proceed with other stuff. I did get the COP ignition coils installed; I had to UN install the wires that lead to the COPs from the old #1 bike to the "new" #1 then fight the coils onto the spark plugs. With the plastic covers over the top of the engine the coils are a tough install. Do those covers serve any real purpose besides guiding the plug wires?

I would mark the tab of each plate that is by the dots so that in the future if you ever have to remove them you can be sure to get them back in the same position. A small file mark or Dremel mark will do. With new disks the orientation does not matter, it is once everything gets broken in and settled, and you need to take it apart for some reason, that you will want it all back where it was.

Those plastic shields do a lot of keeping the engine heat off of you. During testing I went for a ride once with those covers off and it brought song lyrics to mind, "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire.........".

I used the air shields on my 89 VR to hold the COPs in place better. I cut a bigger hole in the rubber around where the COPs drop thru and that seems to be working to hold them in place.

Rick F.