rivas.alejandro Posted October 22, 2015 Share #1 Posted October 22, 2015 ok so new to me bike 97 royal star ran fine during test ride no problems get it off the trailer and here we go clutch master cylinder goes out on me on my way to school make it back home somehow coolant spewing from under my seat soooooo here are the pics doesnt look like the oil so im ruling out head gasket correct? but look at my finger and the coolant tank and cap ..... is it the water pump? do replace the whole pump or just the seal? who will be the winner? thank you in advance for your help . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 23, 2015 Share #2 Posted October 23, 2015 My first WAG would be head gasket. The clutch going out has nothing to do with coolant. The only place I know of (I sure dont know everything) that can pressurize the cooling system is head gasket. A leak down test will spot this real quick. Just in case it is a head gasket, do not attempt to start or even crank the engine until you are certain that you do not have water in a cylinder, hydro lock is never pretty. pull all the spark plugs before you try to turn the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 23, 2015 Share #3 Posted October 23, 2015 I'd say it's the water pump seal, and what you have on your finger tip is what happens when oil mixes with the coolant. 'Milk Shake'. The water pump can be rebuilt. Double check t make sure the stuff isn't in your motor oil as well. Do an oil change. If in both places you have real problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share #4 Posted October 23, 2015 thank you guys i took pictures of the oil does it look ok to you? i ordered water pump gasket seals o rings and thermostat as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 23, 2015 Share #5 Posted October 23, 2015 thank you guys i took pictures of the oil does it look ok to you? i ordered water pump gasket seals o rings and thermostat as well. I'm not sure where the TD's thermostat is located, but if it's in the same place as an RSV it'll be a PITA getting to it. I bought a thermo when I did mine, but chose not to dig that deep. If you're talking about a pic of the motor oil, the pic is missing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 24, 2015 Share #6 Posted October 24, 2015 @Condor The first and last pics in the first post are of the oil in the drain pan. From what I can see the oil looks ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share #7 Posted October 24, 2015 its the pic of oil in a drip pan, ill attach again the thermostat is right under the gas tank by the fork tube just slide the tank back and its accessible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 24, 2015 Share #8 Posted October 24, 2015 OK My bad. I didn't realize you were referring to the pics in your first post. When you drained the oil out of the pan did you see any shake on the bottom. Remember oil is lighter than water and will collect at the top of the radiator fill, and water is heavier than oil so anything in the engine will sink to the bottom. However is looks OK to me. The TD thermostat housing must be easier to get to then the RSV's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dluedke Posted October 26, 2015 Share #9 Posted October 26, 2015 I just went through this on my 08. if there is oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil it is the gasket in the Crankcase Vent or the "Twinky" at the base of the "v" between the cylinder. I had the dealer do it under Warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted October 27, 2015 I just went through this on my 08. if there is oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil it is the gasket in the Crankcase Vent or the "Twinky" at the base of the "v" between the cylinder. I had the dealer do it under Warranty. thank you for the information so should i rule out a water pump issue? how does one test for this gasket in the crankcase? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M61A1MECH Posted October 27, 2015 Share #11 Posted October 27, 2015 I would not rule out the water pump. in fact that would be the first place I would go. There have been more documented cases of water pump seals failing than Twinkie seals failing. The hard part is once you get the water pump rebuilt is getting all of the residual oil out of the coolant system, not sure I ever got my 98 completely cleaned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted October 27, 2015 thanks again guys the parts should come in today, and ill get to it after class tonight i keep reading that the gasket is a pain to get in any suggestions? im thinking of just taking it to a shop and letting them press it in. also bike has not ran since last week so all the " shake " should have floated to the top of overflow tank and radiator right? turkey bast it out? tampon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M61A1MECH Posted October 27, 2015 Share #13 Posted October 27, 2015 "so all the " shake " should have floated to the top of overflow tank and radiator right? turkey bast it out? tampon? " Maybe, there is a lot of places for that soup to get caught and coat surfaces, I have seen recommendations recently to mix dawn dish washing liquid with distilled water and use that to flush out the system. probably need to do it a few times and then rinse with distilled water again to get all the detergent out. I have never tried it, but will if I ever need to do it on my GL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 27, 2015 Share #14 Posted October 27, 2015 The shake, that's in the radiator, will eventually float up into the neck. The stuff in the overflow is there because the pressure exceeded the radiator cap and since the shake is on top it was forced into the recovery bottle as that was all there was in the neck. The best way to clean out of the recovery bottle is remove it, and use the kitchen sink hot water and dish soap.... when your wife isn't looking... :-) That shake is stickier than all get out, and you can't get all of it out with a syringe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted October 28, 2015 so i started disassembly and behold "shake" in the pump and suggestions or precautions on rebuild? [ATTACH=CONFIG]102164[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]102165[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 28, 2015 Share #16 Posted October 28, 2015 so i started disassembly and behold "shake" in the pump and suggestions or precautions on rebuild? [ATTACH=CONFIG]102164[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]102165[/ATTACH] You need to remove the bearing to get to the oil seal. I used a drift punch to catch the edge and work your way around the rim. It did take a little heavy persuasion. I also messed up the lip of the coolant seal when trying to get it set back into the housing. Not bad but it does have a few wrinkles on the lip edge. Shouldn't be a problem as it just acts as a stop when seating the seal. BTW when I pulled the impeller shaft out the coolant the seal fell apart. So fluid was getting behind it but the oil seal must have kept the coolant out of the oil, but not the other way around, and I never did get any coolant out of the weep hole hose....?? Anyway it took about 45 minutes to replace the seals and get things buttoned back up. Once you get things back together flush the system with pure simple green+water+coolant. Let the motor warm up each time... BTW I used a Clymer M374 repair manual first so not to be totally unfamiliar with the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted October 29, 2015 ok is this part suppose to look like this ? its not completely round i dont know if it was machined like that or what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 29, 2015 Share #18 Posted October 29, 2015 Actually it does. The two 'ears' cam lock into the other half of the part, and they are made to not come apart. Mine fell out in two pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share #19 Posted October 29, 2015 alright any ideas on getting gasket residue and pieces that did not get removed off engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 30, 2015 Share #20 Posted October 30, 2015 alright any ideas on getting gasket residue and pieces that did not get removed off engine? Patience and a razor blade. I had a ton of silicon caulk between the cover and the pump body on mine. It came off, but took a while. Just be careful...you're dealing with aluminum and it can be easily scratched.... You don't want to do that to any mating surfaces... I did use a pocket knife for some of the nook's and cranny's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share #21 Posted October 30, 2015 yea i was hesitant to use the razor but got it done looking at service manual cant see where it says use rtv is it necessary? if so where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 30, 2015 Share #22 Posted October 30, 2015 yea i was hesitant to use the razor but got it done looking at service manual cant see where it says use rtv is it necessary? if so where? It was suggested in my Clymers. I used a very thin coat of Yama-bond on the side facing the pump.. Same on the cover. Pump side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivas.alejandro Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share #23 Posted October 31, 2015 well no overheating so far did about 5 regular water flushes a prestone radiator wash 2 water flushes inbetween a coolant simple green water flush 3 water flushes still not coming out clear oh man this is fun lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 31, 2015 Share #24 Posted October 31, 2015 well no overheating so far did about 5 regular water flushes a prestone radiator wash 2 water flushes inbetween a coolant simple green water flush 3 water flushes still not coming out clear oh man this is fun lol Don't think the water will do much good. I'd run the green again although I like Purple Power.. Warm it up and then let it sit overnight. Warm it up again in the AM and drain. The stuff is nasty and stickier than all get out. I don't know if it make a big difference but I was running a synthetic blend. Act-evo MC oil. The goop might be different than straight oil or pure synthetic?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 31, 2015 Share #25 Posted October 31, 2015 Use a heavier dose of the Simple Green or Dawn dish soap, let it run for a while, then let it sit overnight to give it time to break down the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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