What did you do to your venture today?

Anyone got the venture that is made for this stuff?

"Never ride faster then your guardian angel can fly."

While I have not don much to the bike this year, I did determine that I will be rebuilding the forks real soon, the right one is suddenly leaking pretty bad.

Now to start shopping for al of the parts...............

The oily carbs are pretty characteristic of overfilling the oil when you change it. With the bike level and straight up, AND cold (not been running for around a half day minimum) the oil should be between 1/3 and 2/3 on the site glass. Any more and the oil just gets blown out the engine as blowby and up in the carb area...

Thanks for the heads up. I will be doing an oil change this week. Just waiting for air and oil filters to arrive. I will keep this in mind.

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I walked past mine several times today while putting pads and rotors on the front of my jeep. The RSV was calling out to me for it's Sunday exercise but I had to decline due to liquid skies

While I have not don much to the bike this year, I did determine that I will be rebuilding the forks real soon, the right one is suddenly leaking pretty bad.

Now to start shopping for al of the parts...............

Not a guarantee but the FJR guys swear these often work.

http://pi.roostin.com/images/items/large/MOP/MOP002Q/X001-Y001.jpg

http://www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=109325391265&device=c&gclid=CjwKEAjwlpbIBRCx4eT8l9W26igSJAAuQ_HGDs05cGATbxeVWBbv5lp2mXA3CmWZj9c2UP6eaTJOvxoC3g7w_wcB&key=Motion-Pro-Sealmate&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MP-SEAL-MATE&psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger

Not a guarantee but the FJR guys swear these often work.

 

http://pi.roostin.com/images/items/large/MOP/MOP002Q/X001-Y001.jpg

 

http://www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=109325391265&device=c&gclid=CjwKEAjwlpbIBRCx4eT8l9W26igSJAAuQ_HGDs05cGATbxeVWBbv5lp2mXA3CmWZj9c2UP6eaTJOvxoC3g7w_wcB&key=Motion-Pro-Sealmate&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MP-SEAL-MATE&psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger

Wanna hear something crazy Gary,, back in the late 60's we were using film negatives cut in strips to clean our seals.. The best was 35mm.. Cant tell you how many times I salvaged seals by cleaning the garbage out of em on my 73 Honda Elsinore from stirring it up on a MX track.. Still to this day clean em like that even though film negative is harder to find unless your from that geezer era with piles of photo packages stored from years gone by..

It always made me wonder why/how my street bike seals got guck in the seals - I am now convinced that bug splatter is just as much of an issue as dirt from trail/track dirt.

Haven't done much to nine . Maybe pulling it out of the garage so I could work on a friends Kaw. Mounted a set of HD bags on a Vulcan 1700.

Wanna hear something crazy Gary,, back in the late 60's we were using film negatives cut in strips to clean our seals.. The best was 35mm.. Cant tell you how many times I salvaged seals by cleaning the garbage out of em on my 73 Honda Elsinore from stirring it up on a MX track.. Still to this day clean em like that even though film negative is harder to find unless your from that geezer era with piles of photo packages stored from years gone by..

It always made me wonder why/how my street bike seals got guck in the seals - I am now convinced that bug splatter is just as much of an issue as dirt from trail/track dirt.

Beat me to it Puc ! I was going to suggest that same thing !

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The sun is very harsh here in Brisbane Australia. My new to me 99 RSV has sun damaged electrical harness where it's been exposed to the sun over its life. I used a self sealing braided hose cover to tidy up the appearance along the handlebars. Since finding the rusty spark plug the other day I decided to go through some more maintenance that probably hasnt been done for a while. Going to pull the shaft and sort out fluids and grease soon.

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I lubed all pivot points including floorboard, side stand, clutch and brake lever.

Finally put in new stator and rectifier with a phone a friends help thanks Mike the Diamond Cut Guy. Iam Now all charged up and ready to ride if it ever stops raining.

The sun is very harsh here in Brisbane Australia. My new to me 99 RSV has sun damaged electrical harness where it's been exposed to the sun over its life.

My 99 sat kinda under a carport in the desert for more than a decade with the same results. Lots of silver cable covers went brown. Also been chasing electrical issues and taking apart, cleaning switches. After steering bearing replacement I had some brake light, cruise control issues. FINALLY found two electrical connectors inside the fairing with the same configuration and yes I had them switched, it all works now. I did have to take apart the brake light switch, cleaned out the grit, lubed it, and polished the contacts.

Bonus I now have a blown up taped together 6 page size RSV electrical diagram thumb tacked on the shop wall.

Finished the front brake upgrade with a 14mm aftermarket MC that needed several mods and changes to work. The stock 4 wire brake switch did fit after some aluminum sculpting using a ground drywall bit in a dremel. Not for the faint at heart, but with a firm grip it worked amazingly well carving an aluminum casting. The MC does not have an adjustable lever so I am spanning my smallish hand out a bit too far for best grip leverage. Thinking on a fix for that. Lever is chromed aluminum so rebending is a no-no for now.

g

Got home from work today to find my parcel of K&N filters waiting patiently for me. Put my sticker inside the trunk lid and set about dropping the engine and rear drive oils. Both needed doing judging by the colours coming out. My air filter housings got treated to a dulux rebuild (coat of paint ) and the new filters.

Found a nice collection of filings on the rear drive drain plugs magnet. Next project is to drop the rear drive and check the wear on splines and bearings but that's for another day.

Looking forward to a test ride in the morning and check for fluid leaks.

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Tonight I was going to adjust the rear shock so I was taking off the panels on the right side to get to the top nut on the shock.

You have to take the right side passenger foot pad off and take the plastic cover off. Pic #2

Pic #3 with the 14 mm bolt shown with the ink pen pointing to it was out all the way. The only thing holding it from falling off on the hwy. was the plastic cover.

I put Loctite on it and tightened to 80 ft. lbs. That seemed like a good feel. Thought to myself. Better check the other side. Sure enough that bolt was very loose but not out all the way out.

Just thought ya might want to check yours sometime. They are good size bolts. So, that's what I did. Adjust the shock and tighten two bolts that I didn't know was loose.

Thanks for the tip. I will have to check mine.

We probably ALL will...

Picked up a NOS OEM chrome rear brake reservoir cover for a xvs1100 for a good price the other day. Perfect fit and nicer to look at than the stock black one.

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Find mechanic work to be very tiring. Trike has 40K miles. Front brake pads look like new. Just changed the fluid. Rear brake pads are worn. This will be the third set in the rear. Most of my braking is with the rear brakes, and the pads don't compare with the ruggedness of the front pads. Will continue with this project tomorrow.

Yes, Leo, that is the main reason why I MacGuyver'ed the larger Wilwood master cylinder and converted everything to stock Honda CRX rear calipers and CRX rotors!! I didn't even get 1000 miles out of my first set of pads and rotors straight from the Hannigan factory!!I had to replace the brake lines as well, but now I have plenty of stopping power, and there is hardly any wear on my rear pads yet! Those Ducati Monster calipers and Hannigan rotors just didn't cut it! I remember on a ride before the conversion I had to go around a person in front of me at a stop because I just couldn't slow it down fast enough!!

Wow Bob! That is some brake job! Will have to look at your trike some time.

Apparently I've buggered it up.

It's finally springlike enough in Newfoundland that I tried to get my '12 venture going. The battery was kept up during the winter.

Today I dropped it in, turned the key on, selected neutral,and pushed start.

I did get the fuel pump noise when I turned the key on, and the dash lit normally. There was a repetitive rapid clicking which I took to mean the battery didn't have enough to turn the starter.

I put the battery on charge for a while and worked on another bike for an hour or so.

I disconnected the charger, turned on the key, dash lit normally. Pushed start and lost all power. No dash lights, no nothing. Cycled the key but no effect.

I have no lights, no apparent power anywhere.

Did you slip and hit the kill switch? Could there be a short in the battery area that blew the main fuse?

Load test the battery. Your local auto parts store should do it for free.

Load test the battery. Your local auto parts store should do it for free.

Check battery voltage across + and - and see if the battery has juice that is not getting anywhere or of the battery is indeed flat.

If you go to an autoparts store make sure the battery is fully charged first and most importantly make sure they have a load tester suitable for bike batteries. Bikes run around 200-300-ish cold cranking amps (CCA) and cars are closer to 600-900. So the autoparts store must have a load tester suitable for small batteries, and a clerk that knows enough to know that, and how to test it, and how to enterpret the test. That last part might be tricky. Sounds like it might be a bad cell, good luck.

Broview wouldnt send to Australia from Amazon so I found an alternative on fleabay and installed last night. Haven't road tested yet but so far all is good with this plug and play instal.

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