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Fuse box upgrade question


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I am attempting to upgrade the glass fuse box to a plastic Buss type. I read a thread awhile back where one of the members did this, but of course I cannot now find it.

Here is my issue. The original glass fuse block isolates the incoming power for each circuit, ie, headlight, turn, brake, ignition etc.. The replacement block has one incoming terminal for all outputs. There is no way to isolate the incoming power for each circuit. I determined that with the exception of the accessory circuit, the remaining circuits are all hot once the ignition is switched to the on position. The accessory circuit is hot (not surprisingly) once the key is turned to ACC. I could isolate the Accessory circuit with those individual rubber blade type fuse sockets and run the remaining circuits through the new block. My thought was to simply strip the wires, wind them together solder them to a heavier gauge wire and terminate at the hot terminal on the new block.

I am hesitant to this because somewhere along the line I thought I read that there was a reason each of the circuits has its own individual hot feed in the original glass fuse box, in particular the lighting circuit. I don’t want to fry anything and somehow I think my plan is to easy. Any ideas out there?

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Gerry. i ran into the same problem. in order to get the correct fuse block(individual circuits), the Yamaha marine dealer would have had to special order it!

$78.00 and change!

since the only circuit on my bike that was actually bad, was the headlight fuse, i simply bough an inline blade type fuse and fuse holder,and soldered it in place of the glass fuse.

just jt

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Thanks guys. Unless someone tells me its going to cause havok, I am going to try the one input wire block. I checked the wiring diagram and I do not see any likelyhood of it interfering, but I guess I will find out if I am wrong......................

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