RSV Electrical Capacity Info

[V7Goose]

Note: This post is kinda long, but not too technical(except for the very end).

There has been a lot of discussion in the past about the amount of reserve electrical capacity on an RSV for accessories, although most of the detailed facts were BC and no longer available for review. Some folks have glibly stated that the RSV has "lots" of extra electrical power available (with which I completely DISagree). So I thought I would publish some real world observations without a lot of stats to interpret.

My 2005 QuickSilver has quite a few added lights, but with the exception of 4 small 3 watt instrument bulbs, all of them are LEDs, so they do not significantly increase the total load. My Driving lights are stock Yamaha accessories with original bulbs. I have both an ammeter (which allows me to see absolute proof if current is going in-to or out-of the battery at any moment, and a digital volt meter that reads to the tenth of a volt. I also have a tach.

Most of you know that these bikes have four individual carb heaters, 15 watts each, for a total of 60 watts, which is a significant load. I don't know the trigger temp for the heaters, but it seems to be around the low 60s. The thermal switch is under the rear battery covers, so engine heat causes them to be shut off after warm-up unless the temp is quite a bit lower. When trying to figure out how much extra load you can add to an RSV, you need to factor in this 60 watt load if you are going to be riding in any cool or cold weather. Obviously important if you are going to use heated clothing!

To recap, the electrical load on my bike is almost stock. I am experimenting with a set of grip heaters that pull about 2 amps/25 watts. I know they are not malfunctioning because they are wired through a 3 amp fuse which has not blown.

Today, the temp was right around 30 degrees as I headed to work - cold enough to guarantee the carb heaters never shut off from engine heat. I ride about 25 miles, so this is far enough to ensure the current drain from starting the bike is completely replaced by the time I get to work, giving me the opportunity to observe the charging system both with a battery taking light charge, then a fully charged battery.

Bottom line: with the driving lights on and the grip heaters on but headlight on low beam, the RSV can just barely handle the charging requirements of a normal battery in good condition at engine speeds above 1,800 RPM. Turning off the driving lights (total load reduction of 70 watts) makes a BIG difference. Below 1,800 RPM with driving lights and grip heaters on, the ammeter shows the charging system cannot handle the load and the battery is discharging. Hitting the brakes dramatically increases that discharge, and brakes with turn signals even more.

This means the RSV has very little practical reserve charging capacity during cold weather unless you turn off the driving lights!

Here are the technical details to go with those observations:

At high idle after starting (about 1200 RPM, while the battery is trying to take a charge, with lights and grip heaters but no brakes or signals), the system voltage reads only about 10.9 volts, and the ammeter shows the battery is discharging. Raising the RPM close to 2,000 pushes the voltage up to 11.7, and the ammeter shows 0, meaning that the charging system is handling all the lights and heaters, but nothing (or only minor amount) is left to recharge the battery.
Over 2,000 RPM shortly after starting (all conditions the same as above), the system voltage raises to about 12.3 and the ammeter begins showing a slight current flowing into the battery.
After the battery is fully recharged, the system voltage at idle with lights and grip heaters but without brakes or signals is about 11.9, and the ammeter still shows a slight discharge. Hitting the brakes at idle drops the voltage to 10.9.
Fully recharged battery with lights and grip heaters on, normal cruising RPM, the system voltage registers about 13.2.
With a fully recharged battery, turning off only the grip heaters at idle pushes the voltage back up to about 12.8, and turning off the driving lights gets it all the way back up to about 13.5.This test is admittedly unscientific, and all the voltages were based only on memory from this morning's ride (not carefully written down under precise conditions), but I hope that information at leasts gives you something to base your decisions on when deciding on additional accessories. Good luck,
Goose

[Carbon_One]

Goose whether you consider this info unscientific or not, it IS good info none the less. My 05 has mostly a stock configuration as yours is too. I'd guess most of us here are running their bikes pretty much stock as well. I do have a bunch of extra lights on the back of mine but like you am running leds for all of them & stock passing bulbs up front.
While I don't have an ammeter mounted my voltage gauge has given me similar results as you have stated. Nor do I have any heated equipment to add to the electrical load. But those passing lamps will draw a batteries voltage down while idling at a light with say the brake lights on. Don't know if it matches your obversations on not as I never tried to memorize the numbers as you have done.
All the same you have a good & worthy post here.
Now does anyone know if there's an alternative method to boost the bikes electrical output? Maybe a different stator?
Larry

[Marcarl]

Sounds to me like your stator maybe not working quite right. You should have more juice than that.

[V7Goose]

Sounds to me like your stator maybe not working quite right. You should have more juice than that.
I deliberately did not start listing system specifications and calculations, but if you care to do that, you will find out that what I reported is pretty much as expected. These bikes do NOT have significant excess charging capacity when the carb heaters and after-market Yamaha driving lights are on. I did the research and the math on this two years ago when I bought the bike, but not everyone wants to look at it that way. That kind of detail was on this sight before the crash, and you may still be able to find it over on the Venturers site.

Anecdotally, this also might help to explain whey Yamaha only puts 35 watt lights in their driving lights when the majority of those lights are 50 watts.
Goose

[BuddyRich]

Goose, Just checked and the thermal switch is set to kick on at 68 or lower and to kick off at 79 according to the manual. Could be because the carbs may want to ice up when being run hard as gas has a cooling effect during evaporation.

I run a Gerbings heated vest and 3 headlights. Can't run the vest and the high beams for a long time even at highway speeds. But I have never run down the battery either during normal operation.

[V7Goose]

BuddyRich, Your comment about the vest and the lights seems consistent with both my experiences and calculations. This bike is running close to the full charging capacity without adding many extras.

As for running down the battery, that would take quite some time, since the actual current draw out of the battery while the bike is running is only the delta above the total charging capacity at a specific RPM. I don't consider actually running out of juice as a realistic risk from a day with all the stuff running, but if the battery is not being fully charged for any specific length of time, or repeatedly throughout the season, the life expectancy of the battery is materially reduced. This is especially true if it is also experiencing below freezing temperatures.

My only point to the membership here is to be aware of the limitations on these bikes and not blindly assume that it has "lots of charging capacity" just because someone said so. The charging system has reasonable capacity, but not the extra headroom of some other bikes. I'm not even asking anyone to believe me, but at least I have given y'all some additional information that should cause you to look into the situation further. If you know the limitations and have the tools to monitor the system (at least a volt meter), then you can easily manage the current drain so that it does not have a negative effect on your machine. Ride Safe,
Goose

BTW - based on nothing more than watching my gauges during all sorts of riding conditions over 30,000 miles, the carb heaters on QuickSilver do not appear to stay on for very long if the temperatures are over 50 degrees. As I stated earlier, I attribute that to engine heat and the protected location of the temp sensor. I usually run with my driving lights on at all times, and I can tell immediately at idle if the lights and the carb heaters are both running. It is not a big difference without any additional load, but it is still obvious.

[Squidley]

Very good post Goose, lots of info to be thought upon. In my mind it begs the question of, did Yamaha build in the capacity to increase the charging system? or is there another company that has a larger stator with more charging capacity?

I like more lights just for the fact to be seen and it's somewhat of a drag to have to start changing over non essentials to LED's to ease up the burden on the system. You would have thought that when they redid the RSV that they would have learned from their past mistakes with the 1st gens charging system :confused24:

[Midrsv]

Good timing on this thread. I received a heated jacket liner for Christmas and just hooked it up about an hour ago. While I did check voltages across the battery at idle and at about 2000 rpm with the jacket on and off. At idle I measured 13V and at 2000 rpm 14.1 V with the standard low beam and Yamaha passing lamps on. With the jacket liner, which is rated at 100 watts at 13.8V, the voltage drops to 12.2V at idle and 13.5V to 13.7V at 2000 rpm. If you reduce the heat of the jacket the jacket controller cycles the power on an off. So if I run it on a lower setting the drain only occurs 25% to 50% of the cycle. As it cycled on an off I did noticed that the headlight would significantly dim.

What is the minimum voltage to consider the system to be in a charging state?

Dennis

[stardbog]

I Dont Have any passing lights, and replace turn signals , and breake lights with LED's, I'm Able to Hook up 2 full Widder sets of heated clothing each draw about 100W, and have not discharge system. Royal Ster Dont have great charging system Max output is about 400 W. Not quite enough for all gadgets, I Like to see one of those hi output alternators like available for V-Stars

[Bvinson]

Very good post Goose, lots of info to be thought upon. In my mind it begs the question of, did Yamaha build in the capacity to increase the charging system? or is there another company that has a larger stator with more charging capacity?

I like more lights just for the fact to be seen and it's somewhat of a drag to have to start changing over non essentials to LED's to ease up the burden on the system. You would have thought that when they redid the RSV that they would have learned from their past mistakes with the 1st gens charging system :confused24:


I have called or emailed every aftermarket stator company I could find. None of them makes a replacement stator for the second gen. My second question was do you plan to? Answer was not good.. none of them even plan on building one. I guess you could buy one off ebay(hard to find I have been looking) and take it and get it rewound for higher output.

[Rick Butler]

Goose,

This is a problem that I have been meaning to resolve for some time now, but like Bill said none of the aftermarket stator companies make a higher output stator for the Royal Stars in any year. They make them for the 1st gens but for some reason something changed in the design when Yamaha changed up their V-4 in the RSV.

Now I have been in contact with the engineers at ElectroSport (fna, Electrex) who have been making good stators for years. But what they need is an old stock stator to tear down and rebuild so they can build some. I guess it's like any industry, if they don't have a large demand, they think there is no market yet.

But running 2 electric vests and high output lights will run down any Venture battery, 1st or 2nd gen.

So is there anyone out there that can afford to take their stator cover off and remove the stator and send to these guys? In return, they will send you a brand new high output stator. If I didn't live in Texas where I can ride all year long, I would have sent them one years ago. In fact I have even contacted several Yamaha shops to see about getting one that has been replaced under warrenty, but for some reason Yamaha wants them all back? ElectroSports web site is:

http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_electrical_home.html

In fact here is the information I received from one of the engineers regarding building one:

Rick

Yes I need to tear it up, It will take about 30-60 day before I had new ones, And about 30-40 for a preproduction unit, I could supply you that one, If you needed it.

How much more output are people needing.

Paul Brent
Electrosport Industries
615 S Tremont Street
Oceanside CA 92054
PH+1 (760) 433-0184
FX +1 (760) 433-1052
Web www.electrosport.com (http://www.electrosport.com/)
Email paul@electrosport.com (paul@electrosport.com)


Hi Rick

Do you have a burned out stator for the Royal Star, If you do then this would speed up us making a new one. If you could supply us a used one then as soon as we have the production units done I can supply you a new one for free.

Look forward to hearing from you.

Paul BrentElectrosport Industries615 S Tremont StreetOceanside CA 92054PH+1 (760) 433-0184FX +1 (760) 433-1052Web www.electrosport.com (http://www.electrosport.com/)Email paul@electrosport.com (paul@electrosport.com)


There you have what I know,

Rick

[Monsta]

Ron Ayers microfiche lists a stator at about $151. Not bad really.

I might be willing just to buy a new one to send to these guys to see what they can do. Questions, though.

1. What is an ideal wattage output? 600W, 750W ??

2. What else has to be done to the bike to make this higher output stator work. Will anything else need to be changed to allow it to function properly & safely?

Funny...I really have no need for more watts as I do not run electrical clothing or grips, high-powered, multiple lights, decorative lighting, big-thumpin'-stereo etc. I just like having more than I need...just in case. ;)

[Squidley]

Rick,

Thats great info and as soon as Paul gets back from holidays I'll give him a call and see what we need to do. I'm not going to be riding for at least 3 more months and I could supply him with the stator off my '99 for rebuilding and some R&D.

I'll let you all know what I come up with :happy34:

[BuddyRich]

I think another 100 watts would be good. But at some point were gonna start burnin up rectifiers. I don't know what the current rectifiers limits are, but that is something that needs to be considered when pumping more amps thru it.

[GeorgeS]

Is it really necessary to have the Carb Heaters working after the Engine has warmed up to running temp ???

If not, then why not Install a switch to simply Turn them Off after you have reached running temp, no matter what the outside air temp is.

???

[V7Goose]

Lots of good discussion here. I have planned on putting a carb heater cut-out switch on QuickSilver to experiment with, but just have not gotten to it yet.

I don't have enough factual knowledge about the RSV stator and charging systems to really comment authoritatively on options to solve our problem. I understand that one of the problems is that the RSV stator uses permanent magnets instead of electromagnets, so this severely limits any option to build a high-output replacement. I contacted a company out in CA a couple of years ago about a replacement for the Royal Star (might be the same one Rich mentioned?), and they said they planned to release one "next year." I never heard anything else from them, so I assume "next year" ain't here yet! Good luck,
Goose

[stardbog]

This is great discusion, I'll be happy to upgrade my charging system. who ever upgrade first let us know. We are spending $$$$ on chrome and accessories, this upgrade will be mast on my list.

[Freebird]

A company named Rick's has been specializing in motorsport stators for some time now. I've just sent him an email asking what the possibilities are of him building a high output stator for our bikes. I'll let you know what I hear back from him. Here is the web site.

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

[Snarley Bill]

if anyone comes up with a company to make a high output stator,count me in.i think the carb heaters are needed. gas mileage would probably suffer dramatically in cooler weather.i just put grip warmers on mine and ran the battery down running a short test on them.i hooked my charger up to the heaters to check the current draw and they drew 3.5 on high and 3.1 on low.haven't tried them with the engine on .wanted to ride and make sure my battery was charging properly. the charging system is definately not adequate. :)

[Bvinson]

A company named Rick's has been specializing in motorsport stators for some time now. I've just sent him an email asking what the possibilities are of him building a high output stator for our bikes. I'll let you know what I hear back from him. Here is the web site.

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

Ricks was one of the vendors I contacted last year. Their answer was no plans in the near future. Maybe that has changed. Buddy Rich mentioned the rectifiers/regulator. Well there are options in that area. One of the outcomes from talking with the different companies is that there are a lot of different regulators out there that will work.

[pegscraper]

I'm one who can attest that the carb heaters aren't good for much, except maybe under the most adverse conditions. My '96 Royal Star doesn't have heated carburetors stock, and when I put the 32mm carbs on them I didn't wire them up either because there was nothing to connect them to. All I can say is that I have ridden several times in 20* weather and never had any problems with carburetor icing.

[Tartan Terror]

I for one would get in line to buy one. Im sure if any of the two mentioned knew how much interest there is they would atleast offer the service of the upgrade. For them lots of money to be made!!! let me know how both work out!! and Im watching the thread.

[kantornado]

I am glad this thread is here.I would like to add this to my list of things to get.
I don't like running the battery down.
I had to raise the RPM's on the 83 to run the driving lights and pull the trailer ran a battery down in heavy night time traffic.

I do not want this type problem with my G2...................Ron

[pegscraper]

I'm not sure I quite finished my thought there last evening. I wasn't feeling real well then. My point was that for those who have had the idea of gaining a little more wattage capability by installing a switch to keep the carb heaters off, I think it's a real good idea. I've never seen any need for the carb heaters, and I'd sure rather have more capability to drive passing lamps or heated gear. If worse comes to worse and you ever have an issue with carb icing, switch them on for a while. But that's not even an option for me, as my bike doesn't have them.

[Freebird]

I received the following reply to my email to Rick's Stators. Maybe there is hope. I'll let you know more after I talk to him on the phone. How much additional capacity to you guys think we need? It will be limited of course by the number of windings and etc. that they can fit.

Here is the response:

Dear Don,

Thank you for the e-mail. I spoke with Rick about it and he asked me to get a good contact phone number from you so that he can give you a call. He did some preliminary research, but he wanted to talk to you as well on this stator. Please let me know the best number to reach you at and what times are best.

Thanks,
Amanda

Amanda Shaw
Marketing & PR Administrator
Rick's Motorsport Electrics

[Squidley]

Ok...here's an update

I talked with Paul Brent @ Electrosport and we got on the same page. I am going to be the Guinea Pig with my '99 to help them develop a more useable charging system for the G2's.

I really dont know anything technical about the charging systems, so I wont be able to give you any good answers. What we did talk about was assessing the needs that we have for the bikes and developing a charging system that will better suit us.

I am going to take off my regulator, Stator and magnetic flywheel and send them to California where they will test the actual capacity of the stock unit and see what they can come up with for us. I'll keep you updated as I am filled in on the progress :happy34:

[Freebird]

Well....that's what you get. :) I actually called Rick last week but he was out for the afternoon. I was supposed to call back the next day but just hadn't done it yet. I guess my lapse was for the good, now you have to take YOUR bike apart and I don't. :rasberry:

Actually, I'll still follow up with Rick. It won't hurt to have him looking at it also.

[Tartan Terror]

Competition is good. I want one of whatever they come up with.

[FreezyRider]

Any updates on the charging system upgrade? I'm more nervous than ever about mine now. I installed the Kuryakyn LCD voltmeter, and it's amazing how close I must be running to the max charging capacity. All I have to do to throw the LCD into "yellow" is to hit the brakes, turn on a turn signal....sometimes even just setting the cruise control will push it over the edge. I am going to start replacing rear lightbulbs with LCD bulbs to save a bit of wattage. I had been considering a higher wattage bulb in my passing lamps, but unless I can find a beefier alternator, that probably would not be a good idea.

:(

[OB-1]

Hey Guys;

Any updates on an improved alternator?

[Squidley]

Hey Guys;

Any updates on an improved alternator?

I am in the process (bike in the air and ready to be tore down) with getting the items sent to California to electrosport. I have just been way to busy to be able to latch onto it.

I will get it there and they can figure out what needs to be done. Just a little more paitence with me and I will get it there :happy34:

[DLBCAL]

Any updates on the charging system upgrade? I'm more nervous than ever about mine now. I installed the Kuryakyn LCD voltmeter, and it's amazing how close I must be running to the max charging capacity. All I have to do to throw the LCD into "yellow" is to hit the brakes, turn on a turn signal....sometimes even just setting the cruise control will push it over the edge. I am going to start replacing rear lightbulbs with LCD bulbs to save a bit of wattage. I had been considering a higher wattage bulb in my passing lamps, but unless I can find a beefier alternator, that probably would not be a good idea.

:(

I wouldn't get too excited when those lights go amber. If it is the gauge I am thinking of the lights will go amber when the voltage goes below 13.5 volts. While it would be better if the stator was putting out something closer to 14 volts, 13.5 is a long way from causing a drain on your battery.

I used the Kuryakin gauge when I first became concerned about the Venture's charging system. After having those amber lights disturb too many of my rides I switched to a digital guage that provides the actual voltage. On colder days, when the carb heaters are working over time the volt meter never reads above 13.5.

As long as it stays above 13.1, I can live with it.

[Squidley]

I know some folks have been following this thread, here's an update. I sent out my Charging system to Electrex in California last Wednesday or Thursday (CRS sucks) so the ball is finally rolling. I'll tell you all that it was a huge PIA to get all of the items off the bike. If they can come up with a better deal that cool, but it may be a lot more hassle than it's worth as the wire diameter might need to be upgraded to a larger size to accomodate more current if that is the case.

I'll be talking to Paul here in the next day or two and I'll keep everybody abreast on whats going on.

[OB-1]

Thanks Squidly. Please keep us posted!

[Sponge Bob]

Hey Guys, these posts are from Aug. 06. Did Electrosport come through with a new and upgraded Stator?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Sponge Bob:icon_smile_question

[1sttenor]

I put a digital voltmeter on the scoot, 06 RSV, last week. Today I rode it for the first time. Notes: ignition on, but on running 12.3v, idling with a Pilot LED brake/running light bar under the trunk and the passing lights on 13.5 volts. At 55 MPH in O/D, cruise on, CB on and radio on, 13.8 to 13.9 volts. Note: I turned everything off I could at one point still 13.9 volts. I'll check with the trailer on later in the spring.

[Squidley]

Hey Guys, these posts are from Aug. 06. Did Electrosport come through with a new and upgraded Stator?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Sponge Bob:icon_smile_question


They are still doing R&D on my charging system, I haven't heard from Paul as of yet. As soon as he get's ahold of me I'll come back to this thread and let you all know what is going on :happy34:

[OB-1]

Any news yet?

[BuddyRich]

:think::think::think::think:

Me thinks its ridin time.

BRAD ! you need to get your bike back together. :doh:

[Squidley]

Ok....

Quick update, I FINALLY got my charging system back :banana: To only find out that now I'm not pushing any current :bawling:

I recieved the stator and magnet/flywheel 2 days ago, and they forgot to send the regulator with it. Then the overnighted the regulator which I got yesterday. I assembled the bike last night, started it up, and found that I was only pushing 11.6 volts :( So now I have to troubleshoot the system, I'm hoping it's just something like a regulator. Paul Brent has talked with me and says he can make an upgraded stator for the RSV. I want to talk with him some more but he was saying about 4 amps at 1500rpm and about 9 at 3500 rpm. I'll get back with him and make solid on the #'s.

To be quite honest, this has really sucked, I wont ever do this again. A job that supposedly was suppost to be 2 weeks turned into about 2 months. Now I have to troubleshoot my charging system, this hasn't been a good experience. Paul has mentioned that it would be about 6 weeks before the prototype stator will be done. I'm not sure that I want the hassle of installing it on the bike :confused24:

As I know more, you will know more.

[gibvel]

Thanks for all the work you've done for this project Brad. Hope the problems something simple.

[Marcarl]

Thanks for all the work you've done for this project Brad. Hope the problems something simple.
DIDDO:thumbsup2: :thumbsup2: :thumbsup2:

[jneed53]

I have noticed that many of you have the capability to turn off the passing lights. I don't seem to find a switch. 2000 Venture. Is this something that some of you added?

[Stoutman]

I have noticed that many of you have the capability to turn off the passing lights. I don't seem to find a switch. 2000 Venture. Is this something that some of you added?

DOT standards say they should be wired so they can be shut off. Mine came with a switch mounted on one of the the lamps. It was a junk switch though and I replaced it with a switch that controls the lights through a relay (left the old switch in the hole and just took it out of the circuit). The switch I use is one of a bank of three that mounts on top of the front brake resevoir. I use it to control a relay that turns the passing lamps on and off. It is a showchrome unit that I bought from Extreme Revolution. Here is a link (http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-507-30-9-show-chrome-master-cylinder-switch-block-assembly.aspx). The relay is a standard 20 amp 12 volt automotive relay from JC Whitney.

Best of luck.

[jneed53]

Thanks. I'll check it out.

[Al Bates]

I have noticed that many of you have the capability to turn off the passing lights. I don't seem to find a switch. 2000 Venture. Is this something that some of you added?

Passing lights.
Their are many ways to wire passing lights. Here is how I wired my 02 RSV.
From the battery I send a fused power suppy up under the front cowling.
For the passing lights and other accessories I installed a relay that is turn on and off by the ignition switch. From there I installed some switches on top of the master cylinder. (pic below) I used one of those switches to turn on and off the passing lamps. :2cents: :080402gudl_prv:

[Carbon_One]

I have the style of spot lights that have the switched on one of the housings too. And have eliminated from the circuit entirely. My system is wired up pretty much like Al done his too. My Showchrome switch box switches just close the ground circuits of the relays so no power goes thru them at all. Currently the Showchrome switch box turns on/off my low beam headlight, the spot lights, and the lights in my tack and volt meter.
Larry

[RPG]

I have the style of spot lights that have the switched on one of the housings too. And have eliminated from the circuit entirely. My system is wired up pretty much like Al done his too. My Showchrome switch box switches just close the ground circuits of the relays so no power goes thru them at all. Currently the Showchrome switch box turns on/off my low beam headlight, the spot lights, and the lights in my tack and volt meter.
Larry
I've been considering installing a switch to shut down my low beam as well, for those days when I want both vests and my grip warmers on. We travell only during the daylight hours and besides its easy to turn them back on when not using all the equipment or travelling in higher traffic area's. Its a lot easier and cheaper than fooling around with the alternator coils I think. A degree of safety removed for a short duration I agree but done cautiously it is an easy solution to my need for more wattage, at least long enough to keep the battery charged.

[DLBCAL]

Ok....

Quick update, I FINALLY got my charging system back :banana: To only find out that now I'm not pushing any current :bawling:


It's pretty clear this has been a PITA for you and you are missing good riding weather. Thanks for the sacrifice.

I will read with interest what Paul predicts the numbers for the improved stator will be. The amps you mentioned were not very good and I suspect may be misquoted.

If it helps with this experiment, I have a burned stator from my 2000 Venture hanging around here. I have been looking for someone who could rebuild it and find more output out of the design without sacrificing reliability. If Paul needs one to play with we might be able to work something out.

[Squidley]

Back to fill you all in on the progress, the bike is finally rideable. The problem turned out to be the Regulator/Rectifier. I called Paul again after I found out I had no charging and even though I got his voicemail within 10 minutes they called me back. They walked me through checking the stator legs to be sure there wasn't any problems there, they were all good.

Mind you this is on a Friday night on the east coast about 6:30 PM and when I got through talking with them they were packaging a new Regulator to ship it air overnight. It actually arrived at my house by noon Saturday and I reassembled the bike and took it out Saturday evening for a 20 mile shakedown run.

Today I took it out for better than a hundred miles and had no problems. What is going to happen now is Paul and his crew are going to make an upgraded Stator using all the info the obtained from my charging system. It will have a bigger capacity than the stock ones, but I might have not totally understood how much exactly. It sounds like at highway speeds turning 3500 rpms it will be an extra 200 watts. I will get all the actual #'s from Paul when they get the prototype done and shipped to me. That will take 6 to 8 weeks from what Paul had said.

It has been a big mess at times, but atleast we will be able to have a better charging system due to all of this. I have learned some valuable lessons here and have a few more smarts about the charging system under my belt.....and the journey will continue :)

[BuddyRich]

All Right, Now I can order those Aircraft Landing lights I been wanting...

[OB-1]

Squidley;

THANKS for all the frustration and hard work!:clap2::thumbsup::happy65::thumbsup2::group cheers:

Hopefully the end result will be worth the aggravation and work. :fingers crossed:

[Sponge Bob]

Sorry you had a PITA time with the electrical system.
However if all goes as planned with Paul, and we all can get a bigger Stator, we all will be indebted to you.
Sponge Bob
Tucson AZ.
"It's a dry heat" :225:

[Squidley]

I know there have been a lot of folks following this thread since it started. Unfortunately I have some not so good news to add here, take it for what it's worth.

Just recently when I got the charging system back I believe I mentioned that my stator wasn't assembled correctly when it was shipped back. I fixed that problem and installed it. Then the system wouldn't charge, to which I found my regulator was bad. Electrosport shipped me out one of theirs next day air, that was nice.

Wednesday before last as I was coming home from work my '99 died for no apparent reason. It turned out after some sleuthing that my charging system wasn't working and I bought a new battery thinking this was the problem...it wasn't. The regulator that I recieved from Electrosport had died, it's only about 90 days old and in the process my wires that connect to the unit started to melt.

Now I'm no electrical genius, I don't claim to know anything electrical wise besides some simple obvious things. Before I started this deal with Electrosport I had ZERO problems with the bikes charging system. Now I am having nothing but fits. I further find out talking with one of our members here that has a Vstar that on their Delphi forum Electrosport bally hooed about upgraded charging systems on the V*'s. They had nothing but trouble with the parts that they recieved and Electrosport dropped off of their forum.

I don't want this to be misconstrewed, this might not be Elecrosports fault, but they are VERY hard to get ahold of and it seems as if all signs are pushing towards a possible inferior product with not much support. I have to say that I personally wont be using any of their products anymore. The upgraded stator that they are supposedly making for me will not go into my bike. I dont have a good feeling for the product or the lack of response that I have not been recieving.

You all will have to decide for yourselves, and by no means do I expect anyone to take my advise. I just wanted to give you a heads up on what has happened to me with all of this and you all can decide for yourselves...Just figured you might like to know :(

Here are some pics of what happened with my bike

[tx2sturgis]

Might be cheaper and easier to hang a little yamaha or honda generator on the trunk rack! If your pulling a trailer, even more space for it!!

Use it camping, then hook it up to the battery on the bike and keep that sucker charged while riding the bike!! How about aftermarket pipes for the little generator!!

:whistling:

In all seriousness, maybe we can't get there from here. It seems as if on these bikes, the whole system is designed to work together as a matched system. It may be that the regulator/rectifier setup wont be able to handle the extra current load from a hi-output stator. And there will be more 'drag' on the stator if more current is being drawn thru it.

I'm certainly hopeful that something could be developed, but until then, I bought my ride knowing about its barely adequate charging system, and plan to moderate any added electrical loads. The bike is otherwise well engineered, handles good, and is reliable.

Good enough for me!

[KiteSquid]

Every system is only as strong as it's weakest part...

[BuddyRich]

They really are great bikes even with their minor flaws. I don't think I would want any other bike right now as its got everything I want at a price I can afford. If I had another 33k laying around then I might think about another bike but that ain't the case.
I run a lot of stuff and its just a juggling act to keep everything powered when its cold and I have the heated vest and gloves on.

[tx2sturgis]

Hmmmm...so is this possible? Did I just stumble upon a stator upgrade?

http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p24.htm

Has anyone tried one of these? I was surfing a website that one of the other members posted in another thread, and stumbled across this item. I'd love to know if this is real, and not 'vaporware'...

[Rick Butler]

Yeah Brian,

I think you did. And from what I see they didn't conclude their R&D until just November 1st, where it's now available for sale. I've never noticed but has Buckeye always offered high output stators for the 1st gen and now they have one for the RSV?

I'm really surprised that Electro Sport hasn't been able to make one that will work. Brad, with the burned up connector you showed I'm wondering if maybe they needed a soldered connection where Buckey makes a special note that Their unit requires hard wire (soldered) connection?

Sorry for getting you involved in this project. It's been just about a year now hasn't it?

Rick

[Squidley]

I'm really surprised that Electro Sport hasn't been able to make one that will work. Brad, with the burned up connector you showed I'm wondering if maybe they needed a soldered connection where Buckey makes a special note that Their unit requires hard wire (soldered) connection?

Sorry for getting you involved in this project. It's been just about a year now hasn't it?

Rick

Hey Rick,

Yeah it's been right at a year, I saw a post where Rick H at Buckeye was running tests on a G2 with the upgraded stator. I figured I would let them test it for a while 1st. I'm not sure if I will change out stators with all the headaches that I have had. I'll probably run this one till it pukes and replace batteries as nessecary. :confused24: