removed cassette, added gauges......done

[jlh3rd]

been working on this for a couple of weeks..........i added gauges where the cassette was...still kept the mp3 jack...........just did a test run....wadda ya think.......

[Iowawegian]

purty snazzy!!!

[Freebird]

I like it a lot. I think you could sell them. Where do I send the money? :)

[PB&J]

Excellent job. Very professional looking. I think Don"s right there's money to be made with those.:thumbsup2:

[V7Goose]

That is absolutely the most logical place to put them. I just couldn't bring myself to remove the cassette and modify the fairing. No valid reason, just something weird in my brain that said I had a feature that came with the bike and wanted to keep it! Wonder what I'd a done if it came with an 8-track? :rotf:
Goose

[ventureblue]

Now that is what Yama should do to replace the Lame cassete deck that NO ONE uses.

how much and do you make house calls?:missingtooth:

[1sttenor]

That is sexier than socks on a toad! Full write up on installing and corresponding pics will be posted when???
:sign green with env

[Squidley]

just something weird in my brain
Goose


Boy is that an understatement! :yikes:


The gauges look good there, nice job of thinking outside the box :thumbsup2:

[BoomerCPO]

That has to be the neatest mod I have seen done! Wish I had your talent.....Too bad ya don't work for Yamaha!

Boomer..........with more than a hint of green envy.

[cecdoo]

Nice Job, you are gonna have to show them off at the next Pa Meet n Eat. Craig

[Sailor]

Very nice, it is what Yamaha should have done. Send them pics.

[ediddy]

That is too cool. I wish I could do that to mine.

[Gregory Gill]

been working on this for a couple of weeks..........i added gauges where the cassette was...still kept the mp3 jack...........just did a test run....wadda ya think.......


Where did you move the mp3 jack to?

[Freebird]

The MP3 cable just plugs into the back of the cassette. You can just unplug it and run it out with an extension cable from Radio shack. Many of us have done that already.

[SilvrT]

That is sexier than socks on a toad! Full write up on installing and corresponding pics will be posted when???
:sign green with env

DITTO .... when???

[Cougar]

Well at least I know what my next project will
be next winter.. *sheeesh* he had to come up
with a brilliant Idea like that! Darn it..

[jlh3rd]

sorry.....the picture here is actually the final picture......you can see the mp3 jack ....

[jlh3rd]

here

[jlh3rd]

i hate to make a promise and not keep it....but i'll try to do a write up ...sometime.....
a lot of the credit goes to goose as he had a write up for the gauges he installed
you can get these at an auto parts store....i ordered mine because i wanted electrical, not mechanical...and they cost double and only available in these colors and from this co. only.............i'd install mechanical knowing what i know now..........and white gauges would look better, which you can get in white, if they are mechanical...these are the 11/2 " size.... ..........

[Cerviperus]

Fine job, sir. Looks very nice. That is definitely something I would have loved to have on my Venture. :thumbsup2:

[AmnChode]

Very nice and professional looking :happy34:....Looks like a possible new project for me, although I would want to swap out one of the gauges for a tach...hmmmmm ;)

[star4772]

been working on this for a couple of weeks..........i added gauges where the cassette was...still kept the mp3 jack...........just did a test run....wadda ya think.......

Looks awsome how about some step by step instructions?

Joe

[gunboat]

hi jhon
i like it. i know it will my next mod, thanks to you & goose.
don c.

[KiteSquid]

Are the gauges weatherproof?

[Mariner Fan]

Very nice job. Good use of worthless space! :)

[dray]

been working on this for a couple of weeks..........i added gauges where the cassette was...still kept the mp3 jack...........just did a test run....wadda ya think.......
that gage on the right aint square to the rest of the world ( LOL ):thumbsup2: but it sure looks good

OOPS i should have keep on lookin i see you have it fixed in the last pic
dang and i thought i had ya

[usnmustang]

Very smooth looking mod, great job! Way to go on making good use from unused space. Wish I could come up with somthing that clean looking for the RSTD.

[jlh3rd]

well, they're not marine gauges....just what you'd put in a car...advance ,autozone etc.........but how wet could they get being inside a plastic box inside a fairing, plus , i saw no exposed openings on the gauges, plus my bike doesn't get drenched.
step by step inst. will take a while......finding the time for me to do it
the biggest fabrication i had to do was ....three half circles had to be machined in the plastic lip in the opening......cutting the gauge bracket ( the black box ) in half lengthwise.......and then slightly curving the end of the box to match the curve of the dash........
someone mentioned a tach......actually, i looked at that and a two inch gauge will fit..with one more 11/2 inch gauge..but you would have to build a "box to hold it.....i thought about enlarging one hole one the end but that leads to other problems to fix

[az1103]

sorry.....the picture here is actually the final picture......you can see the mp3 jack ....
What's that "non garage looking" tile in the backgound?! :hihi:Did you bring that bike into the house!!??:shock3:

[mraf]

Very nice job.:thumbsup2: I'm guessing that one of the gauges is a oil pressure gauge. Just for curiosity sake what pressure does the engine run at idle and say 3,500 R.P.M.. I've read somewhere that these engines have hardly any oil pressure at idle and that putting a oil pressure gauge on it will drive you crazy thinking somethings wrong. But it is just the nature of the beast and to not let it bother you. Is there any truth to this?:confused24::D

[wkboard]

That is VERY impressive! Nice job!!

[Shot]

You done good. I'd pay to have my bike modified like that.

[Saddletramp]

I'd buy that modification in a kit form. When will you be marketing it or at least be sharing it with us?

[Color01]

I'd buy that modification in a kit form. When will you be marketing it or at least be sharing it with us?

I'm second :banana::banana:

[jlh3rd]

az1103

thats grass........

[Gary N.]

....i ordered mine because i wanted electrical, not mechanical...and they cost double and only available in these colors and from this co. ..........

FYI...look in any street rod magazine and you'll find all kind of guages, both mechanical and electric in any style your heart desires. All depends on how much you want to spend.

I really like the Stewart Warner "Wings" style. They look like they came out of the '50s and have a convex lens. I've use them in my street rod projects.

http://www.classicinstruments.com/

http://www.stewartwarner.com/

http://www.stewartwarner.com/PastFeatures/wingkits.html

[IH Truck Guy]

I think that I need to notify e-bay and let them know to expect a whole bunch of collectible cassette decks coming..:whistling: :crackup::crackup:

That looks awesome.Looks like it came from the factory that way..:thumbsup2:

[KiteSquid]

I asked about weatherproof as I park my bike at work and somtiemes it rains, or I ride in the rain, or I want to wash my bike....

[jlh3rd]

kite squid

yeh..you're right....the only way water would get in would be to run behind the black box ( faceplate)....but you'd have to be really forcing it in that direction. i don't feel water is a problem

someone asked about oil pressure.....on my first and only run...the pressure jumped to 60 psi upon starting the bike cold..it stayed at 60 even at idle....once the water temp ( man, it's nice being able to say that ! ) reached the 180 to 190 range the pressure would run about 5 to 8 psi at idle and go to about 50 at speed.....the volt meter ran about 13.8

[gunboat]

hi all
now i have a question. which gauge is better a volt meter or a ampe meter ? i may have missed this in the tech section.
thanks
don c.

[jlh3rd]

there's been some discusssion here on that.........i think it boils down to : an ammeter is a better indicator because it actually shows if a discharge is occuring....but it is a lot harder to wire into a system......a volt meter is just a lot easier to wire and at least will show if your charging system is maintaining the correct voltage..

[gunboat]

hi john
i'am kind of thinking of installing at least the volt meter and possible the ammeter. i think i would like to put a tach there in the cluster, instead of a water temp and oil pressure gauges. i like what you have done, gave me some new ideas.
thanks
don c.

[jlh3rd]

if you do some searches...i believe kurykan (sp?) has a led voltage meter.....a 2 inch gauge and one other 11/2 inch gauge will fit in the opening but you'd probably have to build your own faceplate......those three 11/2 gauges just made it into the width of the opening using the supplied faceplate............

[gunboat]

thanks john
i work for an airline & can sweet talk a sheet metal tech out of some scrap sheet aluminum for a faceplate. i guess the gauges can be no larger 2".
thanks
don c.

[gunboat]

hi john
you already answered my question, sorry.
thanks
don c.

[Squeeze]

Folks ....

I'd definitely would mount a Tach as first Gauge !

Both Volt and Amp Meter might be a good Idea for other Gauges.


You could look up Koso or Acewell Instruments. They both have multiple Function Gauges in their Programs, with two of those you can easliy produce Information Overload. Those are digital Units but i had/have them for Years and i'm very satisfied.

http://www.koso.com.tw/

http://www.acewell-meter.com/

[KiteSquid]

Does anybody manufacture a surface mount analog gauge set?

This would make it so there would be no cutting of the dash, as this would be one of my preferences.

[Eck]

When I was at the Greenville, Sc bike show I spoke with a rep form KOSO Gauges, because they had a display of many different gauges at the show.
I asked him if they had a "VOLT Meter" and he said they are coming out with one to check their website.
So I just did and if you click on the document below you can read about it.

The gauge is: 46 millimeters in length which converts to 1.811 inches
The gauge is: 26 millimeters in height which converts to 1.023 inches
The gauge is: 12 millimeters in thickness which converts to 0.472 inches

I am not pushing their product, but they have many motorcycle gauges:

http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/

[az1103]

az1103

thats grass........

Oops...sorry... Being from Calif. where the grass is always green...didn't recognize it for what it was:8:. One of the dangers of never-ending good weather, you loose contact with reality!:doh:

[Rick Butler]

Thanks John,

When I rebuilt my 02 back in 06, I really wanted to try this. But at that time I wasn't sure what or how many guages would fit. In fact when I replaced the inner fairing I cut the cassette hole out to have as a test bed. My idea was to get a small tach in the middle with maybe water temp and oil pressure on each side. But I got busy doing other things (and riding) and put that project on the back burner. But now that you have shown that it's possible, I guess it's time to put it back on the front burner, right?

Well.... right after things slow down with the Butt Butler for a while. You guys are really keeping me busy, but that's not problem.

Thanks again,

Rick

[Squeeze]

This would be a nice Tach and comes with a Temp Gauge also ..

http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/fCMSBackend/imgRoot/inst/BA551B22.pdf

[Hotrod]

Where did you buy the guages and what was the price?

[Midrsv]

This thread has me thinking again about adding a water temp gauge. Has anyone thought of using a mounting cup similar to this, http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indA.asp?PN=240-017 and mounting a 2 1/16" gauge in it mounted to the handle bar with a RAM type mount? The RAM mount would allow it to be angled out away from the dash. I use a RAM mount for my GPS and it is very secure. Just thinking out loud.

DT

[juggler]

Nice idea. I like it, the only thing I'd do different is to use digital gauges to match the rest of the Venture instrument panel.


I also worry about the MP3 jack being exposed to the elements.

[davecb]

I think we need a Maintenance Day in PA... :missingtooth:

[Pilot]

That is sexier than socks on a toad! :sign green with env
I may kick myself :buttkick: for asking this but where did you see a toad with socks? And why do you think it's sexy?:think:

[BoomerCPO]

I may kick myself :buttkick: for asking this but where did you see a toad with socks? And why do you think it's sexy?:think:

The very same thoughts crossed my mind as well! I decided not to ask because I know folks here already think I'm crazier than a outhouse mouse...........


Boomer.....who is awaiting Federal Grant money for research on outhouse meeses.

[jlh3rd]

hotrod

i ordered the gauges from autozone as they are electrical and don't stock those....they keep the mechanical ones in stock.....they're also $80 as compared to the mechanical which are around $40.............knowing what i know now, i woulda just used mechanical

about the exposed mp3 jack.........you're right....and i've just thought of a solution.....and if it works, i'll publish another pic.......



believe me, i've already thought of improvements, and doing some things differently
the best ideal change would be for someone to mill a faceplate out of a block of aluminum, round the edges and corners, polish and then seal it with a clear......by using aluminum, you could make the faceplate even thinner than mine, a lot thinner, which would really give the gauges a recessed , stock look.....Tony, who i got my spacer from, could probably do this easily.
i looked at the koso gauges..and they are neat.....and though i didn't see prices, i assumed that they are expensive and i would have to modify the supplied faceplate that came with the other gauges and then hope that the modification worked....i only had one shot.........and the idea was to do this as inexpensive as possible......

[gunboat]

hi john
what about using a small square of velcro to cover the mp3 connector. do you think the velcro would be water proof enought? just a cheap idea. could use a small hole punch to open a hole to plug in a mp3 cord. and a little shot of wd-40 in the hole. then put the other peice of velcro to cover the whole thing up? just thinking outl oud
don c.

[jlh3rd]

that would work......but they make these little, decorative, snap, button caps that fit over screw/bolt heads......i'm gonna try that....i may not have enough room, and i may have to get my dremel out flatten that slightly raised edge of the face plate.............and i'll have to glue it on.....this is the stuff you learn after the fact.........if i woulda made the hole a little higher, it would be a non issue

if you wanted you could just use an old rca plug and just plug that in.......

[mattevans]

GREAT JOB, LOOKS VERY NICE....... WELL ON SECOND THOUGHT I COULD HAVE DONE BETTER... LOL!!!!:happy65:

[dragerman]

Me likes! :thumbsup:

[Ruffy]

Poked around at this site. Sure has a pretty good selection of gauges available. While I would love to add some gauges to the bike, after pricing it all out it came to over $400.00 for what I would like to have......sigh!!!!


http://www.egauges.com/default.asp

[Squidley]

Poked around at this site. Sure has a pretty good selection of gauges available. While I would love to add some gauges to the bike, after pricing it all out it came to over $400.00 for what I would like to have......sigh!!!!


http://www.egauges.com/default.asp

Hell that place be rights here in Michigan :whistling:

[Freebird]

These look good. They are 2" gauges though, probably too big.

http://www.tradervar.com/Mechanical-Triple-Gauge-Kit-CP8208-Sunpro-P35464.htm

These are 1 1/2" but I sure like the chrome plate on the other ones better.

http://www.tradervar.com/1-12-Inch-Triple-Gauge-Kit-White-Equus-8100-P35451.htm

[Cougar]

Umm now these would look good on my MM
http://www.tradervar.com/Mechanical-...pro-P35464.htm
Damn it guys stop this.. I will have to tear into my bike
or this will for sure be my next winters project!
I SURE hope somebody does a write-up on this SOON!
(Nice find Don)
Jeff

[Cougar]

John, Do you think ....THREE..... 2" Gages would fit in that space?
Just from you working on this project.

[jlh3rd]

i don't think they will..........the width of the opening just allowed the three 11/2" i used........you would have to widen the the opening.....also, when you remove the cassette, you will see that it was mounted to a white box that also has and houses the idiot lights on either side of the cassette.........so, in widening the slot, you'd screw up the placement for these lights......the height is no problem

[jlh3rd]

the only solution i thought of would be to place the gauges in a triangle arrangement...that would solve the width problem.....but then you gotta make your own faceplate....and you might start running into a height problem....

[Midrsv]

Jlh3rd,

In one of your posts you mentioned if you were doing it over you would use mechanical gauges instead of electrical. Can you elaborate on that? Especially the water temp gauge.

Dennis

[Cougar]

Thanks John!

[jlh3rd]

midrsv

there is a writeup in the tech. section here by "goose" who installed mechanical gauges on his bike.....if you look at that , you will see that a mechanical oil pressure gauge requires you to run a small line from the pressure point to the gauge. this line has oil in it....the mechanical water temp gauge requires a metal, flexible sensing tube to be run from the temp sensor to the gauge....all of this would have to be routed to the fairing
i thought i'd be smart and use electrical gauges that would just require an 18 gauge wire to be run from the sensors to the gauges, and avoid ,what i thought , would be rigging problems.
well, guess what....the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge is huge...it would not fit down in the space where you have to tap in to an oil pressure point....and there is no other place to tap into oil pressure ( it's down by your right foot, close to the exhaust pipe)..I even purchased another sender that was smaller, got it to fit, and the gauge didn't work because the sender and gauge have to have the same ohm rating ( money wasted)...soooo...i had to get adapters at advance auto, and a hydraulic hose ( 5/16")
and run that up to my fairing. rig a grounding wire to the sender, and tie wrap that in the fairing......the whole idea was to avoid having an oil source that could leak in the fairing. and now, instead of having a little 1/8" nylon tube, i've got a huge 5/16" rubber hose that i had to route up there.....
the electric water temp. was actually better than running the flexible, mechanical tube, but not that much better
the electrical gauges cost about $80....the mechanical are around $40
you can get white/black face gauges in mechanical...electrical only came in black face....from my searching

[Midrsv]

Thanks, that's what I thought. I'm probably going to order a single marine water temp gauge from egauges.com. It will be an electrical gauge.

Dennis

[jlh3rd]

yeh...if your gonna mount that on handlebars, i'd definetly use an electrical water temp gauge

[KiteSquid]

jlh3rd


can you please post a photo of the cuttout did to the dash to make the guages fit?

[jlh3rd]

kitesquid

i'd have to take the fairing off...then undo the clarion amp, to get to the mounting straps......the bike is back in the shed, and we just had a good storm up here...might be able to get it out this weekend.................in the meantime.............

here is a pic of the space before i had to cut it......see the two holes , one on each side of the dark plastic , about half way down from the top of the space...........those two holes each had a screw that went into the front of the cassette player......imagine three half circles , spaced evenly apart with the bottom of these half circles just under these screw holes....with about a half inch space along the top edge of this plastic between the middle and end cutouts.........if i wanted to, i can put the cassette back in, and you wouldn't know i made these half circles....you just couldn't put the screws back into the cassette.....you don't really need them as you can also see that the cassette uses two bolts on each side as seen on the white mounting box inside the fairing.....i didn't have to cut anything else in this space......

[KiteSquid]

Thanks!!!!!

You answered my questions!!!!!


I might add some guages in that space!!!!

[raceman62race]

I see where you said you would have went with mechanical gauges had you known what you know now. I understand your concern about the oil leaking in the fairing if you had used a mechanical oil gauge. Do you think the capilary tube that a mechanical temp gauge uses could withstand the constant long term bending it would have to withstand from steering the bike?

[V7Goose]

I see where you said you would have went with mechanical gauges had you known what you know now. I understand your concern about the oil leaking in the fairing if you had used a mechanical oil gauge. Do you think the capilary tube that a mechanical temp gauge uses could withstand the constant long term bending it would have to withstand from steering the bike?
There is very little bending involved - it is more of a big loop around the front of the steering head that gently flexes instead of bending in one spot. Mine have been on for 60,000 miles with zero problems.

The nylon tube with compression fittings used for the oil pressure is totally safe. Nylon is very tough, and a properly tightened compression collar will last forever. I DID have one start leaking a bit down at the engine when I neglected to properly tighten the compression nut when I was all done. The leak started about three months after I mounted the gauge, and I fixed it in 30 seconds by simply tightening the nut as I should have in the first place! :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

[V7Goose]

This would be a nice Tach and comes with a Temp Gauge also ..

http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/fCMSBackend/imgRoot/inst/BA551B22.pdf
Squeeze, thanks for posting this! I hadn't seen that before - just a tad bigger than the one I am using now, but with the temp built in, it will allow me to clean up my mounting.
Goose

[jlh3rd]

there is very little bending at all.......the nylon line is no problem...........i routed everything up through the neck, so the only angles that the lines are subjected to are the steering angles......you have to make a 180 degree turn to the gauges...but that stays stationary.........i was already commited.........and , my pressure hose is almost invisible, was even able to run it through the neck fairing........so im happy

years ago i had an oil pressure gauge start leaking from the instrument panel in the airplane i was flying......made one heck of a mess...........i just never forgot it.......so, that was my reasoning........

[Lightnen]

been working on this for a couple of weeks..........i added gauges where the cassette was...still kept the mp3 jack...........just did a test run....wadda ya think.......

I am wondering how your gauge panel is held in place for I can't see any screws or rivets on the front. I picked up a mechanical set of gauges on the weeked for about 20. with a chrome face plate. The only thing is mine here are black faced as well, but for 20 bucks I'm not going to complain..

[jlh3rd]

i'm not home right now or i'd post a pic........will be home thurs. .....will get you a pic....in the meantime...............my gauge faceplate came with two right angle brackets that were to be attached at the upper left and right corners........two black ,small bolts ,with nuts, secured these brackets to the faceplate.........i didn't use the brackets....but i did use these bolts and nuts.....the nuts fit into a slot on the inside corners of the faceplate......so.........i took what i call metal strapping ( comes in a roll )..shaped the end of the metal strap to fit in this slot....and then used the two mini bolts and secured these ends of the straps to the faceplate........if you look, you might be able to see these two bolts in the picture.............the other end of the straps were secured to the white mounting box that the cassette was also mounted to, using some machine bolts ,washers and star washers..........i made extra holes to fit these bolts.......
the half circles i machined into the lower half of the opening ( see a previous post ).actually support the bottom of the gauges, and keep the lower part of the face plate secured.....i don't know if this will be enough in the long term due to vibration....but so far seems to ......
see pic. in post #18

[dpage9040]

makes alot of sense - - should be an option from Yamaha:happy65:

[JohnnyB]

Yes, yes, yes. Howyoudoit?
Johnny:thumbsup:

[silent67]

Folks ....

I'd definitely would mount a Tach as first Gauge !

Both Volt and Amp Meter might be a good Idea for other Gauges.


You could look up Koso or Acewell Instruments. They both have multiple Function Gauges in their Programs, with two of those you can easliy produce Information Overload. Those are digital Units but i had/have them for Years and i'm very satisfied.

http://www.koso.com.tw/

http://www.acewell-meter.com/


If you had a First Gen you would already have a Tach, Volt and Temp Gauge.:rotf:

[Freebird]

Well, I was inspired by this thread so picked up a set of 1 1/2" Sunpro gauges today at Advance Auto Parts. Maybe I'll get around to installing them over the weekend, we'll see. These were $29.99.

http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16496

[pegscraper]

That's a nice looking set. And only $30. Wow. That's low enough to inspire me. Where did you pick them up for that? (Web price is $40.)

[Eck]

That's a nice looking set. And only $30. Wow. That's low enough to inspire me. Where did you pick them up for that? (Web price is $40.)


Hey Pegscraper, your as bad as I am reading posts...:rasberry:
Don said:
so I picked up a set of 1 1/2" Sunpro gauges today at Advance Auto Parts. Maybe I'll get around to installing them over the weekend, we'll see. These were $29.99.

[pegscraper]

Oh gee whiz, that's absolutely terrible. I must have seen it and after looking at the website it didn't register. Nice to know I'm in good company. Or... maybe Don can edit posts without that fact showing up, just to make some of us look silly. He wouldn't do such a thing, would he?

[Squeeze]

If you had a First Gen you would already have a Tach, Volt and Temp Gauge.:rotf:

Oh i'm sorry to say, but i always wanted to have the faster One's, i already have a '93 1Gen, a Vmax and a 2Gen ...





VMAX !!!!!


:happy-emoticon: :happy-emoticon: :happy-emoticon: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:

[Freebird]

I'll try again. I got them at:

ADVANCE AUTO PARTS
:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

I just looked at the receipt again, the price was actually $29.88. :)

[SilvrT]

I've read every post in this thread but don't see anything regarding where and how, on the engine, you connect the 3 gauges. I recall stumbling across something one day but be danged ifn I can find it.

Can someone point me?

Thanks

[Freebird]

Here is an excellent article submitted by V7Goose.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19119

[SilvrT]

Here is an excellent article submitted by V7Goose.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19119


Awesome...thanks Don ... that's the one I "stumbled across". I usually save the URL as a favorite but guess I missed that one.

[Cougar]

Also, shows you can get them at farm&Fleet AND Auto Zone as well;
On my way there *waving*

-And for heavens sakes! *TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES DON!!!!!!*
-Looking forward to an excellent write up!
-no Pressure though!

[Cougar]

http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,52356/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/initialR,2457051/shopping/selectZip.htm


1 1/2 in. White Face Mini Triple Gauge Kit with Mechanical Oil/Water Temperature,
Voltmeter and Mechanical Oil Pressure

Brand: Sunpro Part Number: CP8091SW $29.99

[KiteSquid]

BTW make sure you get the 1-1/2" gauge set....

I saw a Sunpro gauge set in 2"...... I don't think they would fit as well.

[Freebird]

Yes, there are a lot of 2" and up gauges to pick from but the 1 1/2" are a bit harder to find. The Sunpro that I posted the link to are 1 1/2" though.

[silent67]

Oh i'm sorry to say, but i always wanted to have the faster One's, i already have a '93 1Gen, a Vmax and a 2Gen ...





VMAX !!!!!


:happy-emoticon: :happy-emoticon: :happy-emoticon: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:

COOOOLLLLL!!!:banana::cool10:

[KiteSquid]

NEWS FLASH

I found some 1 1/2" guage sets made by Auto Meter. they cost a bit more than double what the Sunpro guages do............

AND you can get it with an ammeter or Voltmeter.......

Mechanical Three-Gauge Water Temp. / Oil Press. / Volt (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3364&sid=1)



Three-Gauge Water Temp. / Oil Press. / Volt (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3363&sid=1)


Oil Pressure, Ammeter, Water Temp, at Jeg's (http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/2390/10002/-1)

[Freebird]

I think I'll stick with the Sunpro. I like the chrome and don't see why those would be worth double the price.

[jlh3rd]

the autometer is what i used. i bought electrical, recommend mechanical.....the faceplate is plastic....easier to cut down and shape........hope the chrome metal faceplate works out.....white face gauges with a chrome faceplate would be awsome

[KiteSquid]

You did use the Autometer gauges.

I did not remember it.


I might get the set with the ammeter vice the voltmeter, but I am still thinking about it.

[jlh3rd]

yep.....except i used electrical, not mechanical........recommend mechanical..........autometer was the only one i came across that offered electrical

[N3FOL]

That is absolutely the most logical place to put them. I just couldn't bring myself to remove the cassette and modify the fairing. No valid reason, just something weird in my brain that said I had a feature that came with the bike and wanted to keep it! Wonder what I'd a done if it came with an 8-track? :rotf:
Goose

You probably would've kept the 8 Track. :bowdown:

[N3FOL]

Nice Job, you are gonna have to show them off at the next Pa Meet n Eat. Craig

Good Idea. I would probably paint the black face and mounting area the same color as the fairing.

[jlh3rd]

lighten

here is a pic of the mounting straps on the faceplate and where i attached them inside the fairing.
the first pic shows the faceplate and strap......second pic is the bolt through the white box that the end of the strap is attached to...you can also see the relay i used and the black fairing frame tubing with the mounting hole for the strap that holds the amp . the loose wire isone of the grounding straps for the new wiring that is attached to this frame....if i used a longer bolt, i could have attached the relay to this also.....but i just tie wrapped it later


can anyone here tell me how to post a rightup on my install and post pics as i go along......i can post all the pics at once, but that's not what i want to do.......

[Cougar]

You can do it right here. or start another thread and name it whatever.
And Don (Freebird) or Mr Goose can place it in the VRTECH Area.

OR Don should chime in here in a bit. and he might want you to
use like a word program and you send it to him in an email, myself
I do it here, then they move it. I had some trouble with the pictures
and stuff doing it the other way. the only thing I did start to do was

Type MOST of my stuff in a word program as if you even dare hit the
Wrong key on your keyboard you will lose everything you started on
and have the start over. Just insert the photos after each step.. LOOK
above were you post from now.. you will See a paper clip , click to
the right of that and UP-LOAD your pictures to this site. THEN ,

Insert them from that same place as you type away!

Not to hard , just play around with it a couple times and
you will get the hang of it.

IE: the VRTECH one I did of the Rear Tire Change. the pictures are way to small to view now,
Not sure what happened there.

Jeff

[jlh3rd]

do you mean the " insert image " icon.....will that let me type a paragraph, put a pic in, and then continue typing after the pic. ...........i'm assuming that when i hit the insert image , it will let me go to my kodak program and choose the pic i want?....is this right?

[Cougar]

Pretty much that is it... Try it for a test in here now.. Also
you can hit preview at anytime and see what it looks like as well.

I promise nobody with laugh if you goof up! I promise :fingers-crossed-emo

Hey..... If there is a mistake along the way one of the Admins
can fix it for you at your request.
Thanks for the time doing the write-up. I think even Don is going to
as well. Maybe they can be added together
the more the merrier.I NEED LOTS OF PICS! I have my bezel already ~S~
Jeff

[Cougar]

Well HECK you did it in the above post already silly!
And I fine job! Just keep going like you did there.
kinda like a space with pics added alone the way.

[RedRider]

do you mean the " insert image " icon.....will that let me type a paragraph, put a pic in, and then continue typing after the pic. ...........i'm assuming that when i hit the insert image , it will let me go to my kodak program and choose the pic i want?....is this right?

It is almost like that. However, you may need to resize the pics in your Kodak software before using them. Freebird can't have you chewing up all the storage space with 8M high res images, unfortunately.

I look forward to seeing your writeup. This is one of the best looking mods for the RSV I have seen.

RR

[V7Goose]

Simply keep going back to the same post you want to use and re-edit it to add more or insert a picture anywhere the cursor is.

All pictures must be added using the Manage Attachments, like you did above. Then if you don't do anything else with them, they will just show up together at the end of your post. But if you want to insert one at a particular place in the text, first add it with Manage Attachments, then use the paperclip icon at the top of the message editing window to select a picture to insert wherever the cursor is at that time. Like this:28232

If you want the picture to be flush with the left side, add a carriage return before you insert it. If you want the following text to start at the right bottom corner of the picture, just start typing immediately after the picture. If you want the following text to start at the left side UNDER the picture, add a carriage return after the picture before you start typing.

If you are going to insert several pictures in the same place, add a couple of spaces between each one so they are separated a bit. Don't be shy to experiment and edit it as much as you like to get the post to look like you want.

When you get all done with the writeup, just let me know which post you want saved for posterity, and I will move it to the Tech Library.
Goose

[Cougar]

I went here http://www.cycleoneoff.com/Index.html
And can not find the already made plug for the life
of me there. I did email them though about it.
no response yet as of now.

Thanks for any help.

I also ordered the water bolt as well. on the way.

Jeff

[1sttenor]

I've been thinking about this. I wonder if you could get that Koso tach with temp gauge and somehow put it in the middle with the oil pressure and ampmeter on either side. I know you'd probably have to do some adjustment for height as the Koso tach appears to be 2 1/4 inches including bezel. I know there's not much room side to side. Is there enough to do this? That would be the best of all worlds. A tach, water temp, ampers, and oil pressure in three small gauges and the loss of a useless tape player.

Oh and by the way, "socks on a toad" is just a hillbilly term. My wife hates it when I revert to my raisin'.
:bang head:

[Cougar]

Good Idea Tommy.. I am looking around for
a 1.5 inch tach. myself,. hard to find.

[Cougar]

Mr Goose. I got the plug coming from Tom.. he should
be giving me more info for us soon on it for
me to post here , how to get it. or what
the part number is.
Jeff

[jlh3rd]

cougar

if you mean the plug for the oil pressure.....they never answered my e-mail.....go to discounthydralichose.com....they were the only ones i found that had a 20mm drilled adapter ( and other adapters).....but you will have to use a reducing bushing to fit the 1/8 npt right angle fitting ( that's what i did ) .......also,.. go to egauges.com to check out their line of metric bushings and adapters......

i don't think the width of the opening will allow that size and many gauges........when you pull the cassette, you will see that the white box that held the cassette also houses the idiot lights on either side.....you can't widen the opening without hitting those...........height wise...you can probably make wider gauges fit......

[Cougar]

I got an email right away. I just got a paypal invoice
for it. done deal. but thanks for the info. told Tom
that he needs to place the unit on his front page.
can sell if ya cant see it.

[V7Goose]

I went here http://www.cycleoneoff.com/Index.html
And can not find the already made plug for the life
of me there. I did email them though about it.
no response yet as of now.

Thanks for any help.

I also ordered the water bolt as well. on the way.

Jeff
Sorry I can't help you much here Jeff. I know they must have the adaptor, since they sell an oil pressure gauge kit for the bike, but they may not sell it separately. But frankly, making one is just so danged easy I would rather do that than take the time to try and find one, place an order and wait for it. You might just go to the counter in an autoparts store and see if they can order an M20-1.5 to 1/8NPT adaptor - maybe it is easy for them to find?

And what the hell is a "water bolt"?
Goose

[Cougar]

Sorry , this *LOL* http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indA.asp?PN=R7965
And A Nice looking (water bolt):big-grin-emoticon: it is, Nope my plane is to have
ALL that is needed on the bench with pretty pictures to go by
and your write-up and the new write-up on the face plate mod.

READY to go when I am ready. not sure if I will do it until winter,
but NOW my interest is VERY high and I like the idea. looks like
only a day to install if that. so maybe on a rainy day!

My Bike is having the conversion done now. it will be done in
two weeks. *yippy*

[gunboat]

is that close to being in the family of ( go get me a yard of water line? ) ha ha ha
don c. :shock3:

[1sttenor]

Have you noticed the thread count on this! There are a bunch of us who seem to think the same thing...great machine, but it would be nice to have a little more input from the engine. I hope that if/when there ever it a 3rd gen, they put some gauges on it!

[KiteSquid]

Has anybody found a shallow or surface mount gauge set?

I would like to see a voltmeter, oil pressure, coolant or oil temp and ammeter.

OR better yet, a multifunction display that would fit......but that would cost more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[jlh3rd]

cougar

that's what i used in the spark plug non fouler .......and be sure to use the non fouler....for various reasons no other adapter worked ..either the gasket wouldn't fit from discount warehouse or you couldn't get the socket on the egauges adapter to tighten it down...and be sure to only use that cylinder mentioned in goose's post....don't try the front cylinders...........i found this all out.............

[Freebird]

Well folks...I just finished installing my set. I used V7GOOSE's excellent writeup for connecting them including drilling and tapping the 20MM oil plug for the pressure switch and the neat trick for forming new threads for the water temp with the anti-fowler. Everything worked out just perfectly.

I did take some pictures and will try to get them posted soon. Still have to put the fairing back together. Fired it up and made sure that all were working properly and no leaks anywhere.

The set that I bought have a lot shallower face plate than the Autometer gauges. It only protrudes from the dash about 1/8".

[Cougar]

I will just sit here until Mr Bird Shows up with them Pictures! :fingers-crossed-emo

[Midrsv]

When you mount the water temp sending unit in the top of the head, how much clearance do you have for the sending unit probe to protrude into the head. Are there any clearance issues.

I will be installing my water temp gauge tomorrow. I'm using an electronic Autometer marine gauge that I bought from egauges.com along with chrome housing from VDO which I plan to mount from the handlebar with a ram mount. Hope it works. It's considerably more expensive that the gauge setup you guys are using, about $80 total. I plan to take some photos to upload.

Dennis

[Freebird]

OK....I don't want Cougar sitting around waiting all night. The gauges were not yet secured in the final picture, just stuck in there. They will be straight when I get the straps put on the inside to hold them.

In the first picture, it shows that i am cutting the lip off the top of the faceplate. It protrudes further than the other edges so I cut it all the way across so that the lip is equal all the way around for an almost flush mount.

[Freebird]

When you mount the water temp sending unit in the top of the head, how much clearance do you have for the sending unit probe to protrude into the head. Are there any clearance issues.

I will be installing my water temp gauge tomorrow. I'm using an electronic Autometer marine gauge that I bought from egauges.com along with chrome housing from VDO which I plan to mount from the handlebar with a ram mount. Hope it works. It's considerably more expensive that the gauge setup you guys are using, about $80 total. I plan to take some photos to upload.

Dennis

I used the exact method that Goose submitted in the tech library. The probe only extended about 1/8-1/4 inch I think below he threads of the adapter. No clearance problem at all.

[Tom]

OK....I don't want Cougar sitting around waiting all night. The gauges were not yet secured in the final picture, just stuck in there. They will be straight when I get the straps put on the inside to hold them.

In the first picture, it shows that i am cutting the lip off the top of the faceplate. It protrudes further than the other edges so I cut it all the way across so that the lip is equal all the way around for an almost flush mount.

I guess you know if you made these they would sell! Id be the first...I cant build a doghouse..well I did once and it fell in.

[Cougar]

I think I am going to CRY :crying:
That is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen.

Getting ride of that tape deck! GREAT JOB DON!
Hey was that a stone wheel on the dremal?
and what speed do you run it at?

Again that is what I needed to see. Also make
sure you post your strapping method as well please.
I wont wait up for that tonight *lol*
Jeff

[Freebird]

Yes, it was a stone wheel. Just happened to be the only thing I had handy but it worked fine. I ran it at full speed.

I'll take some pictures of the straps tomorrow when I finish up.

This took me about 6 hours. Would have been faster but I wasn't prepared. Ended up making two trips to the store. :(

[Cougar]

jlh3rd, I did order the right one then?.. says nothing
about non-fouler though. does this have
something to do with fouling that cylinders plug if it is not? :scratchchin:
Stupid Question? :scratchchin:

[jlh3rd]

go into the tech section and read a write up by goose...this is where i got most of my ideas from......he describes the spark plug non fouler ( 18 mm ) you can get from advance,...autozone etc......and shows a picture.............the brass plug you have and i used screws into the top of this ,...and then the sender screws into the brass adapter......it just saves a step, .....you don't have to take an american threaded adapter and cut new threads as he describes.........
it's got nothing to do with fouling a cylinder....it's just what it's called...and is used for cylinders that are burmning oil and keeps the plug end away from the oil so it will not foul...

[Lightnen]

I went here http://www.cycleoneoff.com/Index.html
And can not find the already made plug for the life
of me there. I did email them though about it.
no response yet as of now.

Thanks for any help.

I also ordered the water bolt as well. on the way.

Jeff

Hay there Cougar it would prob be better to call them for the fellow is usually pretty busy. I got in touch with him last week when all this started great fellow there.. He's only got the reducer thoe for the oil gauge for I asked him if he could do the water gauge as well and he is not set up for it..

Lightnen

[Lightnen]

Well folks...I just finished installing my set. I used V7GOOSE's excellent writeup for connecting them including drilling and tapping the 20MM oil plug for the pressure switch and the neat trick for forming new threads for the water temp with the anti-fowler. Everything worked out just perfectly.

I did take some pictures and will try to get them posted soon. Still have to put the fairing back together. Fired it up and made sure that all were working properly and no leaks anywhere.

The set that I bought have a lot shallower face plate than the Autometer gauges. It only protrudes from the dash about 1/8".

Say Freebird did the face plate on your gauges have little slots at the top of the plate so one could mount it below the car dash.. or did you trim them off!. Just wondering for mine has them slots. I was thinking of running clear silicone alone the edges for a bit of a seal..
oooooopppppppsssssy
Never mind there Don I posted this before I saw your post and pic's.. Say when you used that table saw on face place did ya count your figures before use and after... Ouch

[Lightnen]

I've read Goose's explanation of the mounting of water temp. but just curious why do we use #1 cyclinder why not #2 at the front of engine. Just curious is all....

[Freebird]

Say Freebird did the face plate on your gauges have little slots at the top of the plate so one could mount it below the car dash.. or did you trim them off!. Just wondering for mine has them slots. I was thinking of running clear silicone alone the edges for a bit of a seal..
oooooopppppppsssssy
Never mind there Don I posted this before I saw your post and pic's.. Say when you used that table saw on face place did ya count your figures before use and after... Ouch

Yes but I it still left about half the slots. Like you mentioned, I'll probably seal them with something. Actually thinking about making a gasket to go across the tops and sides anyway not so much to keep water out but just so I get get it snug against the dash.

I've read Goose's explanation of the mounting of water temp. but just curious why do we use #1 cyclinder why not #2 at the front of engine. Just curious is all....

I don't know if there is a technical reason or not. I can say that it would be much harder to get to and it just leaves more of the sensor cable to wind up and store somewhere.

[Freebird]

So, now that mine are all hooked up, I wonder how accurate they are? What kind of temperatures and oil pressure are you guys seeing?

When mine is up to running temperature, I'm getting about 10 psi oil pressure at idle. Haven't taken it down the road yet but when I rev it to 3000 or so RPM, it seems to run at about 40.

Temperature seems high. My gauge indicates about 225 before the fan comes on.

[SilvrT]

OK....I don't want Cougar sitting around waiting all night. The gauges were not yet secured in the final picture, just stuck in there. They will be straight when I get the straps put on the inside to hold them.

In the first picture, it shows that i am cutting the lip off the top of the faceplate. It protrudes further than the other edges so I cut it all the way across so that the lip is equal all the way around for an almost flush mount.


I was wondering...what that setup would look like if the mounting plate was turned the other way so that the rounded edges were at the top and the flat at the bottom??

[gunboat]

i went a different route, took out the cassette. installed a peace of alumin sheet into the hole. fits tight at the top, used the two small screws holes on the front w/bolts to secure it. mounted at kuryakyn chrome led battery gauge. will look at installing a 1 1/2" ammeter gauge later. the first green led light stays on and the second green led flikers on and off at different speeds.
thanks
don c. :cold:

[jlh3rd]

lighten

you can't get a socket or wrench in the front cylinder to tighten the adapter down.....at least i couldn't

freebird
you seeing what i'm seeing except my temp gauge doesn't show quite that high...about 200, maybe 210

silvrt

when i rotated my faceplate, the rounded corners didn't quite cover the corners

[Freebird]

My temps were at idle. It sat there running for maybe 20 minutes. Were your temps running or just idling? The bike has never overheated so I figure if there is that much difference, it's probably the gauges. I would like to know that they are right but I guess the main thing is that you have a base point so you can see if there is a sudden change someday.

[V7Goose]

jlh3rd, I did order the right one then?.. says nothing
about non-fouler though. does this have
something to do with fouling that cylinders plug if it is not? :scratchchin:
Stupid Question? :scratchchin:
The non-fouler is not used to mount anything, just to make an adaptor to fit the water temp sensor into the head. If you bought a commercial 18mm adaptor, you don't need the non-fouler for anything.

You can mount the temp sensor in any cylinder head that does not already have a water return line in that spot. But you will find that the easiest place by far is the left rear.

Don, your readings sound about right. Your oil pressure at idle will be much lower when the oil is fully hot (quite a while after the water is hot). Generally at idle, the oil pressure will be just barely off the stop pin. Normal running when fully heated up and about 3,000 RPM generally shows about 20 - 25lbs. Shop manual calls for oil to hold 50lbs at 5,000 RPM when hot, and both of mine have.

The water temp normally runs right at 210 when outside temps are warm, and it will stay right there all day when you are moving. When you stop on a hot day, the temp rises pretty quick until the fan kicks in around 225 or 230, then it drops fast. If the outside temp is around 35 degrees, the water temp seems to hold closer to 200 (1 degree rise in air temp increases engine temp by 5 degrees, until it gets warm enough for the thermostat to hold it at 210. If you find just the right combination of cold riding and fast speed (about 33 degrees and 80 MPH a few days ago for me), you will find a strange combination where the thermostat cannot find a balanced setting - seems that the instant it starts to open, the water cools so fast in the radiator that the thermostat shuts quickly and you see the temp meter constantly jump between 200 and 230 as the thermostat keeps opening a little and closing. Kinda strange the first time you see it, but I guess not everyone rides all day at 33 degrees like I do! :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

[jlh3rd]

my readings were : after running the bike about 20 min at speed, 70 mph, 5th gear......oil pressure 40, volts 13.8, temp. 200....when accelerating , dropping to 4th, oil goes to 50 psi.......if i let it idle for 5 or more mins...were..oil 8psi....temp climbs to about 220, volts about 13.5......... my temp gauge is electric, so might read different than a mechanical............voltmeter graduations are really close ,but i've checked my readings with a multi meter............startup..oil goes to about 60 to 65 psi even at idle...but will decrease as temp rises...........

[jlh3rd]

freebird

i also thought about some type of gasket.....one thing that entered my mind that might work would be that chrome door edge guard material that you can get at any auto parts store which would go with a chrome faceplate..........

some people brought up an issue with the mp3 terminal being exposed to water......here is my solution......

[SilvrT]

I couldn't help myself ... after reading all these posts (actually, it's an idea I had a while back when I removed the cassette) ... I JUST HAD TO go out and buy myself a set of gauges...

Got these ones at Canadian Tire for $39.95 ...

http://www.iequus.com/product_info.php?product_id=8100

Now, if ever I get my '87 out of my shop so my '06 can come back in, I just might HAVE TO tackle putting these gauges in!

[Midrsv]

OK guys, I mounted my temperature gauge today ran into a little snag. I bought the parts from egauges.com including their 18mm adapter for the sensor. It didn't work. It would have except the shoulder around the hole in the head was too tall so that once the adapter was screwed in you couldn't get a socket on it to tighten it up. It would need to be an extremely thin walled socket. So, I went the route of using the non-fouler and brass adapter. No problem there except when it was all put together I now have a coolant leak at the sensor.

Did you guys use any thread tape or compound? I didn't because I'm using an electric gauge and wanted to be sure I had a good ground. I'm going to try to solve this tomorrow. I ran out of time today.

I like the gauge and it didn't start to leak until the it got up t0 about 200 degrees. I let it idle for quite a while and it made it to 210 and the fans never kicked on. I'll post photos in a separate thread.

DT

[jlh3rd]

midrsv

i know that everyone that sells electrical sensors says not to wrap the threads because you need the grounding contact

i'm here to tell you that i don't wrap all the threads, but i do wrap the last couple of threads , and the gasket, and i've had no problems with the gauge working and no leaks......i wrapped all the threads of the adapters for the oil

i did this for the venture and i did it for my harley when i added an oil temp gauge.



for others adding gauges........discounthydralic hose and egauges sell all kinds of adapters and bushings but the only adapter that works for water temp is the non fouler.
the discount adapter gasket is too big and the egauges adapter you can't get your socket on......there is a recessed boss where the plug is that distorts the gasket and stops your socket

you can take the gasket off of the non fouler and put it on the discounthyd. adapter,but why do that

you can use the 18mm adapter from egauges that will screw into the non fouler which saves you the step of cutting your own threads


i spent more money than needed to.......all i ended up using was the 20mm adapter( discounthyd.), a reducing bushing ( egauges) in that for the oil.........and then the 18mm ( egauges) in the nonfouler

[jlh3rd]

i don't know if this is allowed........but my home phone is 717-774-3914..........for questions about this install...........

[Freebird]

I used mechanical gauges so the grounding wasn't an issue. I also used Permatex thread sealer on the threads. I did mine as Goose did in that I only used the non-foulder to form the threads on the adapter and like him, I used the gasket from the non-fowler also.

As for getting a socket on things, I had no problem but you MUST remove the chrome covers from the valve covers to do so. They are easy to remove, only a couple of allen head bolts.

[Midrsv]

The problem with the adapter from egauges.com was that it was very thin. Once screwed into the hole it didn't have enough height to rise above the shoulder around the hole. So I pulled it and used the non-fouler method only I didn't use any thread compound, only the spark plug gasket. I've looked at it this morning and my leak is coming from the small diameter sending unit. I've pulled it and placed some thread compound on it that is good for steam lines. I checked the resistance afterwards and I still have a good ground. It's running in the garage now so I should know in a few minutes if that fixed my problem.

Dennis

[Ponch]

I haven't seen this much positive response to a tech (or any other) thread in a while. Thanks to Goose for planting the seed and Jlh3rd for hitting the ground running. I know many are going to pursue this installation.

Has anyone been able to find an 1 1/2" ammeter for sale by itself? I've seen them in a 3 gauge set, but I already bought a set that didn't have the ammeter so I just need the ammeter.

I am thinking about adding the Dakota Digital (http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=297/category_id=240/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd297.htm)tach in this cluster ($159.00 :yikes:).

28241

Thanks, Ponch

[Cougar]

Kent, I am wondering what the heck
those large round objects are used for in your
write-up ? one looks like a cut off muffler.
I Just had to ask...:whistling:
Jeff

[Midrsv]

I got my leak repaired. I just pulled all of the fittings and used thread compound on all.

See photos at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=312542#post312542

Dennis

[V7Goose]

Kent, I am wondering what the heck
those large round objects are used for in your
write-up ? one looks like a cut off muffler.
I Just had to ask...:whistling:
Jeff
Those are the pieces I used to fabricate mounting cans for the gauges on my 07. They are both exhaust parts I found by just taking the gauges in to an auto parts store and manually testing the fit in various pieces of pipe. I use the chrome exhaust tip to make the mount for the ammeter on the handlebar where the chrome was important. I used the galvanized exhaust pipe to make a couple of cans to weld together and mount under the dash for the other two gauges.
Goose

[Cougar]

Very good Goose! You do good work my friend.
You are always thinking!
Jeff

[SilvrT]

I used mechanical gauges so the grounding wasn't an issue. I also used Permatex thread sealer on the threads. I did mine as Goose did in that I only used the non-foulder to form the threads on the adapter and like him, I used the gasket from the non-fowler also.

As for getting a socket on things, I had no problem but you MUST remove the chrome covers from the valve covers to do so. They are easy to remove, only a couple of allen head bolts.

Don (or anyone) ... dumb question...

Did you tighten the adapter down on the head before you screwed in the adapter that comes with the kit (the one going between the "home-made" adapter and the sending unit) ...??

What kind of socket did you use? I measured them to be 7/8" and it looks like it should be a thin-walled 12 point and NOT a deep socket (I got a deep socket but it's too long but I don't have the other)

[jlh3rd]

i used the 18mm adapter from egauges ( brass 18mm male threads, rubber o-ring, female 1/8 pipe threads)...i tightened this fitting into the non fouler, then i installed this into the cylinder head......my socket fit over the brass adapter onto the non fouler's hex head.....then i installed the sender unit................i wrapped the last couple of threads on the non fouler and the sending unit......my gauge is electrical so i don't wrap all the threads, just the last few......be sure and remove the chrome covers to get better access....

i just used standard sockets ..no thin wall......i don't remember the size......i don't think i even used a long socket.......but what i did usedid fit

[SilvrT]

Don't route the nylon oil line too close to the exhaust!

(why do I know this?) :crying:

Wondering...has anyone used a copper line instead of the nylon one?

[mraf]

OK I have suffered through this post about you 2nd genners putting gauges on your precious 2nd gens. Enough already! This post being here in the watering hole is the reason that the 2nd gens {Tech section} never gets OVER the 1gens numbers in the tech section. FOUL! Enough already that you finally have something to look at besides that 50ish dash! Tape a air mattress to your dash and let the rest of you 2nd genners BS about that for 100 million years too. Yeah, now your kocking on the Goldwings door! OH YEAH!!!!!!!! :witch_brew:

[SilvrT]

OK I have suffered through this post about you 2nd genners putting gauges on your precious 2nd gens. Enough already! This post being here in the watering hole is the reason that the 2nd gens {Tech section} never gets OVER the 1gens numbers in the tech section. FOUL! Enough already that you finally have something to look at besides that 50ish dash! Tape a air mattress to your dash and let the rest of you 2nd genners BS about that for 100 million years too. Yeah, now your kocking on the Goldwings door! OH YEAH!!!!!!!! :witch_brew:

Funny... I envisioned the addition of the gauges to be more like a Harley! :rasberry: :rasberry: :witch_brew: :witch_brew:

[Cougar]

Did you ever take any final mounting pictures kind sir?

[Freebird]

No, I actually didn't do anything at all. I saw a chance to do some riding and decided I wanted to get everything back together. For now, I just used a long nylon tiewrap and ran it through the "U" that holds the gauges into the face place. I used one on each of the outer gauges and then just looped them through the holes in the existing plastic box that the cassette used to slide into. Got a nice ride in over the weekend and it worked fine. Maybe I'll do something more permanent the next time I'm in the fairing.

[SilvrT]

Don't route the nylon oil line too close to the exhaust!

(why do I know this?) :crying:

Wondering...has anyone used a copper line instead of the nylon one?

OK, now that the first oil line got too close to the exhaust and popped a leak and got oil all over my garage floor, here's what I did to prevent that from ever happening again.

Purchased new oil line (same kind)
Purchased a 3 ft length of brake line just the right size to slide the new oil line into (had to cut to fit).
Routed the brake line down the frame and in-behind existing wire loom, ending just before the brass fitting.
Secured the brake line at the bottom using an " I " beam curtain rod hangar (slightly modified) and zap strap.
Zap strapped the brake line to the frame just above the air cleaner.
Slid the oil line down the brake line tube.

Pics of completed project including my new gauges.

[Cougar]

Very Smart Idea! I will do that as well. perfect.
thanks.
Jeff

[Lightnen]

OK, now that the first oil line got too close to the exhaust and popped a leak and got oil all over my garage floor, here's what I did to prevent that from ever happening again.

Purchased new oil line (same kind)
Purchased a 3 ft length of brake line just the right size to slide the new oil line into (had to cut to fit).
Routed the brake line down the frame and in-behind existing wire loom, ending just before the brass fitting.
Secured the brake line at the bottom using an " I " beam curtain rod hangar (slightly modified) and zap strap.
Zap strapped the brake line to the frame just above the air cleaner.
Slid the oil line down the brake line tube.

Pics of completed project including my new gauges.

Say SilvrT, just wondering if you could tell me if you could see or get at the temp sensor as well when you were sliding that brake line into possition. I haven't gotten around to get into this gauge project as yet but I also need to check the temp sensor for I think my is faulty have never hear my fan come on.
At present I'm installing LED's around my saddle bag rails hope to be done this either late today or tomorrow..

[SilvrT]

Say SilvrT, just wondering if you could tell me if you could see or get at the temp sensor as well when you were sliding that brake line into possition. I haven't gotten around to get into this gauge project as yet but I also need to check the temp sensor for I think my is faulty have never hear my fan come on.
At present I'm installing LED's around my saddle bag rails hope to be done this either late today or tomorrow..

I honestly can't answer that ... no idee where the stock temp sensor is...surely someone will answer you.

As for hearing the fan...according to all I've read about this, one never hears it and you only know if it's on by either watching it closely or feeling a rush of heat when it fires up. I haven't run mine long enuf at standstill to check the fan...yet.

[Lightnen]

Ok thanks there SilvrT, I know the fan sensors on right side according to drawings but haven't dug into it as yet. Its some where's near the top of rad, hose connections I thinks.. lol
I know my 85 Venture ya could hear it come on when at ideal for 5mins. after a run of a few miles but like I say I haven't heard this RSV I have now come on and then I've only had it sense last Aug. Just hate to frie anything.. lol
:puzzled:

[SilvrT]

Ok thanks there SilvrT, I know the fan sensors on right side according to drawings but haven't dug into it as yet. Its some where's near the top of rad, hose connections I thinks.. lol
I know my 85 Venture ya could hear it come on when at ideal for 5mins. after a run of a few miles but like I say I haven't heard this RSV I have now come on and then I've only had it sense last Aug. Just hate to frie anything.. lol
:puzzled:

dunno what year yours is but mine is still under warranty so I figgure, if it overheats, then Yamaha can fix it...but then again, I'm curious so I'll be looking for it to come on when I do my final testing of the gauges while it's sitting still. heh.. I'm so leery now from when the oil line popped a leak that I'm gonna check it real good before I take a ride...and even then, I think I'll carry a spare oil line and compression fittings LOL.

[Lightnen]

Well I don't think you'll have a problem now with the plastic line covered I'd say thats a great Idea for sure.. I've got a braded line I'd picked up a while back and never used it I might try to modifie it to blend in on mine. I was checking on the net to see what temp 50/50 mix antifreeze would boil at but there are so many kinds now adays and we don't use all that much in our bikes but I would say its safe anything below 240F.

[saddlebum]

Now that is what Yama should do to replace the Lame cassete deck that NO ONE uses.

how much and do you make house calls?:missingtooth:
Whoa just hold on ther buddy I love my cassette its the only place i get to play all my collection of oldies but goodies :backinmyday::dancefool::thumbsup2::big-grin-emoticon:

[Lightnen]

Ok people I thought I had a good handle on this installation of these gauges, well I just opened up the fairing and shuttered. I'm lost! ! ! Now I've checked the service manual and nothing on how to get at the casset player, do we remove all frame work that holds the radio/head light or just the radio will do. For I don't want to remove more than neccessary if ya know what I mean. Any help would be appriciated..

:crying:

[SilvrT]

Ok people I thought I had a good handle on this installation of these gauges, well I just opened up the fairing and shuttered. I'm lost! ! ! Now I've checked the service manual and nothing on how to get at the casset player, do we remove all frame work that holds the radio/head light or just the radio will do. For I don't want to remove more than neccessary if ya know what I mean. Any help would be appriciated..

:crying:


Un-bolt the Amplifier and slide it off to the side (if you're looking towards the bike, it slides out the left). You might have to disconnect the big plugs and some of the other wiring connected to it ... not to worry, they're color coded.

There are 4 bolts (2 on each side) of the cassette. They screw into the sides of the cassette thru rubber shock bushings. I believe they're 10mm. Get in there with an extension and take 'em out. On the right there's an electrical "box" (so to speak) that's a bit in the way ... just unhook it and move it to the side.

You will have to undo the 2 top screws that hold the headlight on (EDIT...and move the headlight out of the way) so there's room to slide the cassette out.

Undo the two little screws at the bottom front of the cassette.

You will have to wiggle and jiggle a bit to get the cassette door to clear as you're pulling the cassette backwards and out.

(EDIT... no YOU don't wiggle and jiggle... you do that TO the cassette! )


hope this helps.

[Lightnen]

Un-bolt the Amplifier and slide it off to the side (if you're looking towards the bike, it slides out the left). You might have to disconnect the big plugs and some of the other wiring connected to it ... not to worry, they're color coded.
(EDIT... no YOU don't wiggle and jiggle... you do that TO the cassette! )


hope this helps.


Yup the info sure helped, got casset out with no problem "Os".. Just hope rest of installation go's as smooth now.. LOL.. Thanks for the help, tip sure came in handy..
:thumbsup2:

[SilvrT]

Yup the info sure helped, got casset out with no problem "Os".. Just hope rest of installation go's as smooth now.. LOL.. Thanks for the help, tip sure came in handy..
:thumbsup2:


Always willing to assist (sometimes I even know what I'm talking about LOL)

Not sure your plans for attaching/affixing the gauge cluster faceplate but I used 2 of the little screws that came with the kit and ran them thru 2 holes I drilled and into the plastic part of the dash (if U look at my earlier post with the pics). I drilled the holes into the faceplate just a tad bigger than the screws and then used a smaller bit to put a couple "pilot" holes into the plastic. ... seems to be tight enuf but then again, I haven't ridden anywhere yet. Probably not the most solid method but I have plans to use small metal screw clips similar to those inside the fairing where the screws go into later on.

Should also mention that I cut off the top mounting flange on the faceplate using a cutting wheel on my high-speed grinder. I held the plate steady in a wood vise with the lip resting on the edge of the wood and cut thru the metal. Then I filed the edge smooth.

[Lightnen]

Thought I'd post an after thought about installing the Amp Gauge. If some of you fellow's are following VGoose's guide I'm sure your having problems soldering the 10 gauge wires together (or maybe it was just me) anyways I found away around this. Went into Hardware store to the electrical section there you should find box wire connectors (copper) I picked up two of these little gems when home I removed the tab and just used the ovel screw connector worked slick, then covered everything with Rubber double faced tape.
These connectors I've seen used in electrical box's for grounding wires so if soldering is not your thing check these out..

[SilvrT]

Thought I'd post an after thought about installing the Amp Gauge. If some of you fellow's are following VGoose's guide I'm sure your having problems soldering the 10 gauge wires together (or maybe it was just me) anyways I found away around this. Went into Hardware store to the electrical section there you should find box wire connectors (copper) I picked up two of these little gems when home I removed the tab and just used the ovel screw connector worked slick, then covered everything with Rubber double faced tape.
These connectors I've seen used in electrical box's for grounding wires so if soldering is not your thing check these out..

Years ago I worked in a heavy truck mfg plant. I recall watching one of the guys on the line soldering wires together for something. Basically he had a "hot pot" of molten solder and he'd just dip the wire into it. Of course, he'd twist them together and dip them into some flux first.

Soldering them will ensure a strong and complete join, not to mention make it harder for corrosion to get inbetween the "crimped" wires.

[Ponch]

Years ago I worked in a heavy truck mfg plant. I recall watching one of the guys on the line soldering wires together for something. Basically he had a "hot pot" of molten solder and he'd just dip the wire into it. Of course, he'd twist them together and dip them into some flux first.

Soldering them will ensure a strong and complete join, not to mention make it harder for corrosion to get inbetween the "crimped" wires.

If you're installing the ammeter in the main circuit, you might want to solder. The entire electrical load of the bike goes through those connections. I'm afraid that over time and with the vibration involved, a screw type conection will not survive as well. With solder, the entire connection is solid. With a clamp, it is probably not as solid.

What I do with crimp on connections is: Solder the wire first, slide on the terminal, crimp the terminal end onto the wire (minus the insulation) and then solder the joint. Works pretty well.

:080402gudl_prv:

Ponch

[V7Goose]

Thought I'd post an after thought about installing the Amp Gauge. If some of you fellow's are following VGoose's guide I'm sure your having problems soldering the 10 gauge wires together (or maybe it was just me) anyways I found away around this. Went into Hardware store to the electrical section there you should find box wire connectors (copper) I picked up two of these little gems when home I removed the tab and just used the ovel screw connector worked slick, then covered everything with Rubber double faced tape.
These connectors I've seen used in electrical box's for grounding wires so if soldering is not your thing check these out..
I understand your problem. 10 AWG wire is large and sucks up lots of heat - if you try to solder two of them together, that sucks up twice a much heat. You need a good soldering gun to do this. If you can't provie enough heat, the wire sucks it all away before it melts the solder. If you have problems and want to use a crimp connection, I suggest you at least tin the individual wires first (tinning is coating the wire in solder so the individual strands are stuck together). The only solution to this problem is to find a soldering iron or gun that puts out enough heat to do the job. :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

[Lightnen]

Ok.. I know what you fellows are saying. I'll see if I can find a better soldering gun, if not I'll do what goose mentioned is tin the ends (one set is already done) maybe try to drop/melt some solder down into the crimped connection afterwards. And here I thought I was almost done. LOL
While I think of it, can anyone tell me what colour of wire for the dash lights I will be soldering them in today, was milling around in the dash wireing but didn't seem to find the right one..

[SilvrT]

I've installed the mechanical water temp as per instructions but am still getting a small "weeping" leak where the modified fitting (using the spark plug fouler to re-form the threads trick) screws into the head. It seems the gasket from the fouler isn't sealing completely. I've put pipe thread sealer on the threads and tightened it down pretty good but maybe not enough...but, I'm afraid to strip the threads on the head. Just how tight can I go with this thing?

I'm on the second washer...when I pulled it out the first time (to fix the leak), it seemed the washer was distorted and obvioulsy not seating properly. Maybe that's the same issue with the second washer..?? Maybe a different washer would work better?

Any thoughts / suggestions guys?

[Freebird]

One thing I forgot to mention on mine. On the adapter that I bought, the hex shape for the wrench to fit on to tighten it went all the way down. It was hitting the raised edge around the threaded hole where you screw it in. I used my bench grinder to grind it smooth to about a half inch up so that it did not hit the raised rim. This allowed it to tighten down completely without hitting. I think my adapter was a different brand than the one that Goose bought and yours may be like his and this may not be necessary. After grinding it though and then using Permatex thread sealer and the washer from the non-foul adapter, I had no leaks at all. I got it pretty tight. Should have used a torque wrench so I could report how tight I tightened it but didn't do so, sorry.

[jlh3rd]

silvrt


after a few runs last week...i noticed mine was leaking also, at the head.....so i took off the fouler and discovered that the crush gasket was distorted...i don't know how that happened ..........about 1/4 of it was not crushed all the way, as if it had moved. i removed the crush gasket and put an 0-ring on it.....that has worked so far

[SilvrT]

I used this part from Freebird's writeup on installing the gauges...

"you will need to purchase a brass ½” tube to ½” female pipe adaptor (I got mine at Lowes, Watts part number A-218)"

I notice that the edge that mates up with the gasket is slightly beveled and the washer off the non-fouler is not a tight fit and I think that is why this particular washer has a tendency to "distort" as it's being compressed.

silvrt


after a few runs last week...i noticed mine was leaking also, at the head.....so i took off the fouler and discovered that the crush gasket was distorted...i don't know how that happened ..........about 1/4 of it was not crushed all the way, as if it had moved. i removed the crush gasket and put an 0-ring on it.....that has worked so far

What kind of O-ring did you use?

I'm wondering if there's an adapter similar to the A-218 that has a flat mating surface?

I will admit tho that the coolant "weeping" is extremely minimal. I put on about 200 km's on Sunday after re-installing the washer and re-tightening it and the green coolant was just slightly visible around the lower edge of the fitting where it meets the gasket and the head and it wasn't over-filling the edge to the point that it would spill over (which it was doing the first time around).

[jlh3rd]

i wish i could give you an exact size, i know you can get bulk 0-ring packs with multiple sizes and that's what i had.....the o-ring i used was snug against the threads when i rolled it on which made it fit real good in the gasket part of the fouler.
if you've read all the posts with this thread, you will see that i spent a lot of time and money looking for other adapters and they are out there, but for different reasons, they don't work......and now ,like you , i've had a problem with the fouler gasket......the brass 18mm adapter from egauges you can't get a wrench or socket on because of the raised shoulder but it uses an 0-ring..........the 18mm adapter from hydraulic hose metal/rubber gasket is too big and catches the edge of this raised shoulder........which leaves you with the fouler...and now an 0-ring instead of the crush gasket......
no matter how small a leak, you don't want any leak......get an 0-ring and that should (?) end the problem
at least when you snug it down, you can tell when it's tight enough........

[SilvrT]

i wish i could give you an exact size, i know you can get bulk 0-ring packs with multiple sizes and that's what i had.....the o-ring i used was snug against the threads when i rolled it on which made it fit real good in the gasket part of the fouler.
if you've read all the posts with this thread, you will see that i spent a lot of time and money looking for other adapters and they are out there, but for different reasons, they don't work......and now ,like you , i've had a problem with the fouler gasket......the brass 18mm adapter from egauges you can't get a wrench or socket on because of the raised shoulder but it uses an 0-ring..........the 18mm adapter from hydraulic hose metal/rubber gasket is too big and catches the edge of this raised shoulder........which leaves you with the fouler...and now an 0-ring instead of the crush gasket......
no matter how small a leak, you don't want any leak......get an 0-ring and that should (?) end the problem
at least when you snug it down, you can tell when it's tight enough........

What about a nylon gasket similar to one used on an oil drain plug?

If one fits snug to the threads but is a tad too big for the raised shoulder, then it would be easy to trim it....??

Still concerned tho about just how tight one can crank these things down without concern of stripping the threads in the head. I'm guessing that part of the head is aluminum so my thinking is the aluminum threads would strip rather easy before the threads on the brass fitting...??? yes/no? I'd be totally devastated if I stripped those threads in the head ...!!!

[jlh3rd]

if you could find one to fit...........sure, it should work............i tried to find an 18mm oil drain plug gasket, no dice. 14mm is the biggest.............i had a blister pack of assorted gaskets ( nylon, paper etc.), none fit.....you could drill the hole, make it fit i guess........but why do that, use an 0-ring
torque specs.....tried to find the spec for the plug you remove from the head, couldn't find it in the service manual.........i know someone on this site should have a general torque recommendation for the size of bolts........
using the 0-ring ,it was easy to feel the bolt snug up.......i used a 7/8 standard socket with a stuby ratchet.......and had my hand close to the ratchet head...it's a technique i use a lot so that i don't strip something...especially in aluminum threads.......
i did not have to wrench the fouler tight, i just snugged it...........

[SilvrT]

if you could find one to fit...........sure, it should work............i tried to find an 18mm oil drain plug gasket, no dice. 14mm is the biggest.............i had a blister pack of assorted gaskets ( nylon, paper etc.), none fit.....you could drill the hole, make it fit i guess........but why do that, use an 0-ring
torque specs.....tried to find the spec for the plug you remove from the head, couldn't find it in the service manual.........i know someone on this site should have a general torque recommendation for the size of bolts........
using the 0-ring ,it was easy to feel the bolt snug up.......i used a 7/8 standard socket with a stuby ratchet.......and had my hand close to the ratchet head...it's a technique i use a lot so that i don't strip something...especially in aluminum threads.......
i did not have to wrench the fouler tight, i just snugged it...........


THANKS M8T .... I'm gonna go with your advice and I'll let ya know what happens.

[V7Goose]

Sorry you guys are having problems with a leak - that crush washer from the non-fouler (or any spark plug) is not really intended for sealing liquids, but it worked fine for me. No idea what torque - I just used my calibrated wrist on that. If yours is deforming unevenly, maybe you are cranking on it too hard?

Two other suggestions - put a good several wraps of Teflon tape on the upper threads of whatever adaptor you are using. Next, check at an auto parts store or Ace Hardware for copper washers, usually used on oil plugs. The copper is soft and deforms enough to fill any small gaps. :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

[SilvrT]

Sorry you guys are having problems with a leak - that crush washer from the non-fouler (or any spark plug) is not really intended for sealing liquids, but it worked fine for me. No idea what torque - I just used my calibrated wrist on that. If yours is deforming unevenly, maybe you are cranking on it too hard?

Two other suggestions - put a good several wraps of Teflon tape on the upper threads of whatever adaptor you are using. Next, check at an auto parts store or Ace Hardware for copper washers, usually used on oil plugs. The copper is soft and deforms enough to fill any small gaps. :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

Good idea Goose... now as for that crush washer...seems to me if it will work on a spark plug where the cylinder pressure can be upwards of 150 psi, it should be able to hold back 12-14psi coolant pressure... me thinks it just doesn't seat properly on the tapered (or maybe rounded is a better word) edge of the brass fitting... I believe the actual non-fouler has a flat flange, thus a better seal (similar to a spark plug).

I also note that on that particular brass fitting that the area where the washer fits does not have any thread...maybe that has something to do with it as it seems to crush the washer outwards. (I should take a pic of what it looks like when I take it out)

Well, I'm going to try the rubber O-ring and at the same time, I'll plaster some pipe thread sealer on the threads. I'll be doing some close inspection of those threads in the head first tho just to ensure they haven't been damaged.

[Lightnen]

Here is something else you might try to seal the line is a Copper Washer, a good part shop for Trucks (big rigs) should have something in the size. With the copper you need to aneal it first, that is heat it up until it glows red than drop into water really quick this will soffen up the washer and should seal the first time.
Just an idea we used at work..

[Midrsv]

I had the same problem with a leak at the sending unit using the brass re-formed fitting. So I used the adapter from www.egauges.com (http://www.egauges.com) which was to short to allow me to get a wrench on it and screwed it into the non fouler with pipe compound on all threads and that fixed my leak. There is a photo on the third post of this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33268&highlight=water+temp

Dennis

[jlh3rd]

midsrv

the leak we're talking about is at the base of the non -fouler......some of us have problems with the crush gasket supplied ........i haven't come across anyone with leaks at the brass adapter or the sending unit...........that i remember anyway....

[Midrsv]

midsrv

the leak we're talking about is at the base of the non -fouler......some of us have problems with the crush gasket supplied ........i haven't come across anyone with leaks at the brass adapter or the sending unit...........that i remember anyway....

I think you're right. I had leaks there too and I attributed part of it to the malformed threads on the brass adapter. By using the non-fouler everything seemed to fit better. It may just have been the pipe compound.

Dennis

[SilvrT]

midsrv

the leak we're talking about is at the base of the non -fouler......some of us have problems with the crush gasket supplied ........i haven't come across anyone with leaks at the brass adapter or the sending unit...........that i remember anyway....

Since I am using the mechanical gauge, I don't use the non-fouler for anything other than the re-threading of the brass adapter (Watts # A-218).

Maybe I should be using the non-fouler also??? not according to Goose's instructions (or did I read it wrong?).... I think the whole assembly would be too high if I did.

[V7Goose]

You didn't read it wrong - I just mount the brass adaptor with the newly re-formed metric threads straight in head. I have done several exactly like I described and showed in the instructions and have not had a single leak. The only thing I use is teflon tape on the modified brass adaptor and the sparkplug crush washer from the non-fouler. I don't play magilla gorilla on the socket when I install the adaptor - just snug it up good and then a tad more (1/4 turn max, just like you do with a spark plug). :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

[SilvrT]

You didn't read it wrong - I just mount the brass adaptor with the newly re-formed metric threads straight in head. I have done several exactly like I described and showed in the instructions and have not had a single leak. The only thing I use is teflon tape on the modified brass adaptor and the sparkplug crush washer from the non-fouler. I don't play magilla gorilla on the socket when I install the adaptor - just snug it up good and then a tad more (1/4 turn max, just like you do with a spark plug). :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

hmmmmmmmm... that's about what I did the first time... maybe a bit more... second time (with a new gasket) I cranked it (magilla gorilla style ... almost!) ... got less of a leak on second go-round. First time I used teflon tape...second time I used pipe thread sealer.

I'm gonna pull it apart this evening and see what's up.

(more later)

[jlh3rd]

then i read it wrong.....that's where the confusion is coming from.......cause i installed the non fouler with an 18mm adapter from egauges into the cylinder head , then installed the sender into that brass adapter...........i apologize if i've mis-lead anyone........

[SilvrT]

then i read it wrong.....that's where the confusion is coming from.......cause i installed the non fouler with an 18mm adapter from egauges into the cylinder head , then installed the sender into that brass adapter...........i apologize if i've mis-lead anyone........

You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge?

and hey... no apology neccessary!

[jlh3rd]

i'm using an electrical..........but, as i've said in previous posts, i'd use mechanical,... knowing what i know now..

[SilvrT]

i'm using an electrical..........but, as i've said in previous posts, i'd use mechanical,... knowing what i know now..

I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.

[jlh3rd]

no,... there is room, unless your mechanical sending unit is taller than mine.....

[SilvrT]

no,... there is room, unless your mechanical sending unit is taller than mine.....

Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)

[jlh3rd]

yeh.....my bad......the non fouler is just used to cut new threads in a brass adapter..THEN that adapter is screwed into the cylinder head.......

[bikerjohn]

send info on what 3 gauages and how to install, what kit to mount face plates.
Thanks

[jjcoxpsych]

Great Job!!

[SilvrT]

yeh.....my bad......the non fouler is just used to cut new threads in a brass adapter..THEN that adapter is screwed into the cylinder head.......

eh? .. what bad? it's all good!

Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak!

What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!

[Lightnen]

Well fellow's I think I've come across another problem at least here that is. Problem is I've got power on that extra wire that was an exzillory wire. Lets see, I cut the two wires about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the white plug and added the possitive side of Amp gauge, now the wires left I put to negitive side of amp gauge with this extra wire for exzillory (whitch I put a 6 gang fuse panel. Now I just hooked up my saddle rail lights and fliped the switch and they came on. Hmmmmmm I thought this extra wire would be governed my the main key switch whitch it is not. Now I'm wondering if this is hooked up right or did I blow or short out the plug wires perhaps..:nanner:

[V7Goose]

If you hooked up the wires exactly like I described in the tech article, the aux power wire will always be hot - you use it for anything that you would ordinarily want to connect directly to the battery. If you want the circuit to be switched with the key, like with driving lights, run the power to a light relay and have the relay energized from the existing headlight circuit. I probably would not connect low current draw running lights to that aux circuit - nothing wrong with that, but just not necessary. Instead, connect extra LED lights to the existing bike light circuits at the plug behind the battery. :080402gudl_prv:
Goose

[Lightnen]

Ok got ya there Goose, think I've got a handle on this now. Should have used a meter on this first. Did a test run last night and found that my fan does come on around 220 Degrees which is good to know.. Just a hopping I don't spring any leaks.. LOL

[Ponch]

I thought I would try to flush mount mine. I like it. I used 1/8" 2024 Aluminum plate and massaged it to fit in the cassette door opening, polished the face and secured it from behind using the cassette player mounting holes.

[Cougar]

Now that Rocks I LIKE THAT! and what
is the 2024 number mean and why?
Polish better?
Thanks,
Jeff

[Freebird]

Very nice. This mod gets better all the time. I may have to take a closer look at mine the next time I have things apart. :)

[Ponch]

what is the 2024 number mean and why?
Polish better?
Thanks,
Jeff

Naw, its just the grade we have at work. There are a lot of different grades. 2024 and 7075 machine very well. 6061 is a little softer but welds better.
Ponch

[gunboat]

hi david
great looking set up, white face gauges to go with white bike. love it, now where is the tack? best reguards
don c.

[Cougar]

Thanks Ponch

[jlh3rd]

yep, i was hoping someone would do that........i bet the entire assembly doesn't run over $75, including gauges....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.

[Ponch]

yep, i was hoping someone would do that........i bet the entire assembly doesn't run over $75, including gauges....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.

Have had a little set back involving non-bike issues. (Pesky Honey-do's) When I get it all back together, I'll shoot a couple more pics.

[Saddletramp]

Ponch, thats a nice looking job!!!

[Ponch]

....i'd like to see a pic that shows the entire dash, windshield etc.

Finally got it all back together. Don't they know its riding seaon? These chores eventually gotta take a back seat to riding.

Anyway here's some shots of it put back together.

[Cougar]

Don, Can you take this Entire Thread and place into
the TECH Section soon? There are so many great idea's
and folks have there different ways that I think it would
be good just to place the whole damn thing into it. :think:

That way when I proceed one day with this , I will be able
to look back and find it. I have all my parts laying on the work
bench now *lol* And sure enough if I start the project it
will get sunny and warm for riding :D
Jeff

[Cougar]

Awesome Job Ponch! :thumbsup2:
I will be doing the same thing I believe.
I like how the plate fits right into that space
WELL DONE! very professional!
Jeff

[jlh3rd]

that looks better than i had imagined

you'd think yamaha could make that, like, an option or something.......or a kit....but then, thinking further.....why pay yamaha some high price for what you can do yourself....for probably less than half of what they would probably charge.......